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I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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Some additional pics and a vid...
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On Feb 21, 2020, at 9:31 PM, Mark Kessler via Groups.Io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
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The additional pics, also btw it was a 24hr print and about $37 in material...
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On Feb 21, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Some additional pics and a vid...
<Video.mov> Regards, Mark On Feb 21, 2020, at 9:31 PM, Mark Kessler via Groups.Io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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that's awesome!! I'd buy one..
On Friday, February 21, 2020, 06:31:01 PM PST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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Weird, seems all the pics are not posting? Trying again?  
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Sadly I won’t be able to produce them but with the .stl file you probably could find someone online to make it for you. Regards, Mark
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On Feb 21, 2020, at 10:01 PM, Randy Child via Groups.Io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
that's awesome!! I'd buy one..
On Friday, February 21, 2020, 06:31:01 PM PST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
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If I had the dimensions, I could model that with a longer, smoother transition for you guys. My printer is packed away as we are remodeling our house at the moment, but I could post the stl file no problem.
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I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
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Mark,
What material did you print these from? Curious what printer you used as well.
Thanks.
On Friday, February 21, 2020, 09:31:01 PM EST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!!
?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
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I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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Ed the printer is markforged and the material is a nylon with chopped carbon fibre, it actually has the ability to lay in continuous fibre filaments like carbon fibre, fiber glass for uber strength. I really like this one, virtually no fiddling and cleanup and works every time, we have a form3 and I hate it?
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On Feb 22, 2020, at 8:54 PM, Ed Mazuronis via Groups.Io <egmiii@...> wrote:
?
Mark,
What material did you print these from? Curious what printer you used as well.
Thanks.
On Friday, February 21, 2020, 09:31:01 PM EST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
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I could do that in the next few days, to be honest I think it’s good enough and wouldn’t be worth reprinting. I think you would have to make it taller to really optimize the transition. Probably easier to do in Autocad than unigraphics.
?I got caught like three times, ?people be like - that doesn’t look like software validation, i was like - really and what do you know about software... reaction, blank stares... Regards, Mark
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On Feb 22, 2020, at 9:52 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? If I had the dimensions, I could model that with a longer, smoother transition for you guys. My printer is packed away as we are remodeling our house at the moment, but I could post the stl file no problem.
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
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I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!!
?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
|
The markforged (the one used to make this part) has the ability to make the strongest most robust parts of all of the FDM type printers, it can lay carbon fibre filament and the slicing software is powerful in that it allows you to select different infill geometry's and you can orient the fibre for the strongest matrix. The best resolution is 100 micron layer, you would have to sand the parts to get them smooth and black and a kinda white is the only color. I think 5k for the one that doesn't lay fibre and $6500 for the one that does
The Form three is an SLA printer And will print to 25 microns and has more colors. There is lots of info out there. 5k but uses a lot more consumables and is messy.?
Personally I think 3d printing is great for fixtures and first articles like how Brian L uses and how I use it at work but thats it for me?
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:49 AM, Michael Marsico <michael.marsico1@...> wrote:
? I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!!
?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
|
The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
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I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...www.lambtoolworks.com <IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Well a quick google search says you can print with PC…. but it’s not always the issue of how strong the base material is, it’s how well one layer fuses to another. If the layer on top doesn’t fuse (melt) solid with the layer below, no matter how strong the material is, the weak spot becomes the joint between layers.
Also, just because materials are available, doesn’t mean all printers will print with them.
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Go to Matterhackers for a breakdown of available printing materials. I found PC listed, but it requires 280?C on the extruder and pretty high bed temps too, not sure my printer will get that high. A lot of nuances in 3D printing. One advantage, is there are
plenty of print farms that you can send your 3D deign to and they will print it for you, out of pretty much anything available... for a price.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
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Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran
On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a
lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light
mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would
have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t
know.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
<IMG_3350.JPG>
<IMG_3354.JPG>
<IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking
about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!!
?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will add
the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
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I was searching strength of 3D printed items, since someone asked. PC was suggested as the stronger one for 3D printing. It was a general response so did not state how sophisticated a printer is required to print with PC. I understand your comment about cohesive interlayer adhesion, or lack there of.
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:01 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Well a quick google search says you can print with PC…. but it’s not always the issue of how strong the base material is, it’s how well one layer fuses to another. If the layer on top doesn’t fuse (melt) solid with the layer below, no matter how strong the material is, the weak spot becomes the joint between layers.
Also, just because materials are available, doesn’t mean all printers will print with them.
On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 05:49 AM, Michael Marsico wrote:
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
?
Well, everything is "relatively" strong ;-) It's all about compromise.? Some materials are "stronger" (vague term) than others, but there are multiple dimensions to "strong" -- stiffness, brittleness, creep, UV resistance, heat resistance, etc.? And different materials have slightly different printing characteristics -- some are easier to get quality prints with than others.? Some have noxious fumes during , some do not.? ?Some are cheap, some are expensive.? Some are abrasive (fiber filled) and require hardened nozzles. Etc... And there are tradeoffs in printing speed with deposition rates (nozzle size and layer height).?? Like with everything, to optimize you have to tune to the job requirements.? The carbon fiber-reinforced dust fitting from the $10k printer is lovely.? You could also get a $100k CNC machine and make it out of titanium.? And you can also make it on a $200 printer, more than twice as fast and less than half the material cost as the MarkForged printer.? Your wood dust would not know the difference between these three options.? Note that laser (light) printers are not using epoxy.? They use light-curing resins.? They are most commonly referred to as SLA (StereoLithography) printers.? Unless you have specific fine detail requirements, like you're making jewelry castings, you don't want to start with an SLA. The resin is messy, parts need washing, etc.? ?And the working size to cost ratio is much different.? You can choose from a dozen FDM printers with ~10" cube envelope for ~$500, but you'd have to spend ~$2,000+ and have very few options to get that size in SLA.?? ?
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Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...www.lambtoolworks.com <IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
imran