|
In the past people have also posted pics of pvc couplings or reducers re-formed to rectangular on one end. A few minutes with a heat gun or torch is all it takes.
On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 12:36 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
PC is a difficult material to injection mold, very narrow temperature range and degrades under temperature very quickly, I think 3d printing requires a machine that has a heated bed and possibly heated print envelope. Like Brian said if the layers don’t fuse it all goes poo-poo.? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 11:20 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I was searching strength of 3D printed items, since someone asked. PC was suggested as the stronger one for 3D printing. It was a general response so did not state how sophisticated a printer is required to print with PC. I understand your comment about cohesive interlayer adhesion, or lack there of.
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:01 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Well a quick google search says you can print with PC…. but it’s not always the issue of how strong the base material is, it’s how well one layer fuses to another. If the layer on top doesn’t fuse (melt) solid with the layer below, no matter how strong the material is, the weak spot becomes the joint between layers.
Also, just because materials are available, doesn’t mean all printers will print with them.
On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
the dust port was printed on a Markforged mark 2 and I did not use carbon fibre filament just the nylon with chopped carbon which is more than strong enough. Also if memory serves me it was $6500 not 10k will have to check the invoice or cc. I think the non carbon fibre filament is like 5k Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 11:46 AM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
?On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 05:49 AM, Michael Marsico wrote:
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
?
Well, everything is "relatively" strong ;-) It's all about compromise.? Some materials are "stronger" (vague term) than others, but there are multiple dimensions to "strong" -- stiffness, brittleness, creep, UV resistance, heat resistance, etc.? And different materials have slightly different printing characteristics -- some are easier to get quality prints with than others.? Some have noxious fumes during , some do not.? ?Some are cheap, some are expensive.? Some are abrasive (fiber filled) and require hardened nozzles. Etc... And there are tradeoffs in printing speed with deposition rates (nozzle size and layer height).?? Like with everything, to optimize you have to tune to the job requirements.? The carbon fiber-reinforced dust fitting from the $10k printer is lovely.? You could also get a $100k CNC machine and make it out of titanium.? And you can also make it on a $200 printer, more than twice as fast and less than half the material cost as the MarkForged printer.? Your wood dust would not know the difference between these three options.? Note that laser (light) printers are not using epoxy.? They use light-curing resins.? They are most commonly referred to as SLA (StereoLithography) printers.? Unless you have specific fine detail requirements, like you're making jewelry castings, you don't want to start with an SLA. The resin is messy, parts need washing, etc.? ?And the working size to cost ratio is much different.? You can choose from a dozen FDM printers with ~10" cube envelope for ~$500, but you'd have to spend ~$2,000+ and have very few options to get that size in SLA.?? ?
|
Not sure if 5k is out of reach for all hobbyists, have you seen some of the woodworking equipment they buy? ? ? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
 Regards, Mark
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 23, 2020, at 4:22 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
? In the past people have also posted pics of pvc couplings or reducers re-formed to rectangular on one end. A few minutes with a heat gun or torch is all it takes. On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 12:36 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Can also just clamp the 4” hose to the metal, no fitting required? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Mark Kessler via Groups.Io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
?  Regards, Mark On Feb 23, 2020, at 4:22 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
? In the past people have also posted pics of pvc couplings or reducers re-formed to rectangular on one end. A few minutes with a heat gun or torch is all it takes. On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 12:36 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
 Mac,,, ??
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...<IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Mac, That totally would have been my method if I didn’t have free access to the 3d printer.? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 23, 2020, at 3:36 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Not sexy but 3 to 5” off the shelf is anther option, sucks lumber up the shoot so suction is not a problem.
Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 23, 2020, at 9:51 AM, imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Brian,
Are any of the materials you mentioned are poly carbonate?Google search said it has very good strength. If not, would an inexpensive printer handle PC?
Imran On Feb 23, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The printer Mark Kessler is using is out of reach for any home hobby type situation. You can get a decent 3D printer for $500 or so, but it’s going to take $3000-$5000 to get one capable of printing with carbon fiber enhanced materials (or a lot of modifications to a cheaper model). With most home type machines you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and a few other alphabet soup combo’s. PLA is the most common and easiest to print with, but it does have strength and durability issues. I printed a LED light mount for my CNC mill using it and it has held up ok, even under the spray of oil and water based coolants.?
I also printed up some replacement speaker grills on my van when I did the handicapped conversion… the side doors required all new panels to accommodate the automatic door openers. That had to be printed out of ABS due to the summertime heat (would have melted and warped the PLA). Using ABS requires that you enclose the printer and keep the heat enclosed or the print goes to hell.
I have not used the DLP (Digital Light Processing) models. The smoothness of the prints is much better than FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and I think they have units coming out that will print with fairly strong materials… at what cost, I don’t know.
Brian Lamb blamb11@...www.lambtoolworks.com <IMG_3350.JPG> <IMG_3354.JPG> <IMG_2809.JPG>
I know this might be an off question and not trying to turn the thread but i love the idea of printing parts like this at home but have not gotten a 3D printer or CNC yet (I am looking at the Camaster CNC right now).? My wife was talking about being able to print small knobs and such - so considering one just got much easier :)
Are the materials made with these relatively strong and is there a large difference in the printers that build the part up layer by layer vs those that build with light in the epoxy?
On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 10:55 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
AT LAST? a decent use for those printers~!! ?Good show~!!
On 2/21/20 9:30 PM, Mark Kessler wrote:
I 3d
printed a fitting for the overhead guard with a 4” port, I will
add the .stl to the files section Monday as I forgot to bring it
home with me today. It’s not perfect as my modeling skills are
suffering and I was trying to do it under the radar at work and
just ran out of time, had issues with blending...
<image0.jpeg><image1.jpeg><image2.jpeg>
|
Was the stl file posted? This appears well designed and was on my to do list after obtaining a prusa printer and being impressed with the print strength using petg. ?Thank you for designing and sharing. My thought was to add a bend so the hose connects horizontally for those of us strapping flexible duct to the support arm and not dropping from the ceiling.?
--
Mike B
|
Here is my version of the overhead arm adapter printed on a basic consumer printer out of PETG (it was on the printer). Print time on draft was just over 5 hours and material cost was $4 based on a $30 spool/Kg cost. This was my first print made solid due to the relatively thin wall structure of 3mm. The stl file will be uploaded to the 3D print folder. The overall height is the same as the OEM part however the transition is smoother.?    -- Mike B
|
Awesome Mike ! And thank you!
Bill Bélanger
Here is my version of the overhead arm adapter printed on a basic consumer printer out of PETG (it was on the printer). Print time on draft was just over 5 hours and material cost was $4 based on a $30 spool/Kg cost. This was my first print made solid due to the relatively thin wall structure of 3mm. The stl file will be uploaded to the 3D print folder. The overall height is the same as the OEM part however the transition is smoother.?
  
--
Mike B
|
Would it have been possible to add a long sweep 90 for increased air flow vs making that bend with spiral duct?
Imran
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On Feb 3, 2021, at 4:14 PM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote: ?Here is my version of the overhead arm adapter printed on a basic consumer printer out of PETG (it was on the printer). Print time on draft was just over 5 hours and material cost was $4 based on a $30 spool/Kg cost. This was my first print made solid due to the relatively thin wall structure of 3mm. The stl file will be uploaded to the 3D print folder. The overall height is the same as the OEM part however the transition is smoother.? <K940 overhead complete.jpg> <4 adapter 2.jpg> <4 adapter.jpg> -- Mike B
|
Nice work, pretty inexpensive. I think the one I did was $30-40 in material and longer than 5 hrs on the Markforged printer
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On Feb 3, 2021, at 4:14 PM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote:
?Here is my version of the overhead arm adapter printed on a basic consumer printer out of PETG (it was on the printer). Print time on draft was just over 5 hours and material cost was $4 based on a $30 spool/Kg cost. This was my first print made solid due to the relatively thin wall structure of 3mm. The stl file will be uploaded to the 3D print folder. The overall height is the same as the OEM part however the transition is smoother.?    -- Mike B
|
Here is one printed by heat gun ?
BTW, I meant to make the square part 90 deg to what is in pic but lost track of it.
Imran?
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On Feb 3, 2021, at 4:14 PM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote: ?Here is my version of the overhead arm adapter printed on a basic consumer printer out of PETG (it was on the printer). Print time on draft was just over 5 hours and material cost was $4 based on a $30 spool/Kg cost. This was my first print made solid due to the relatively thin wall structure of 3mm. The stl file will be uploaded to the 3D print folder. The overall height is the same as the OEM part however the transition is smoother.? <K940 overhead complete.jpg> <4 adapter 2.jpg> <4 adapter.jpg> -- Mike B
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Bill Belanger
imran