开云体育

Hi, anyone selling a Kappa 400 x motion or advice on new configuration?? I moved from cabinet saws to sliders last year, really like my K700S but thinking more about plans for retirement which is

yes the overhead guard is a challenge if you try to do it by yourself, but it can be done - just takes longer.

Hey JasonHa,? yes you're probably getting better resaw results.? I rarely do it- most of my resawing is really ripping edging on the table saw,? and then? widebelt with 80 at a fast feed rate.

If it isn't smoke and it isn't steam ( neither of which am I proposing), it could be dust, or it could also be spores from small fungi.? It's the part about? happening at the beginning of the cut

Hi MarkI haven't found many options for the belt material when buying wide belts- usually 180 is paper and the coarser ones fabric.? Once you handle and use them, this division will make sense.? No

Jason what brand? I am looking at VSM cloth right now because I can buy a min of 2 Butt it’s a butt joint (pun intended) The zirc is only $5 more per belt But here is the other thing these

Mark, For your volume of use in a one man shop, I don't think that would pay off. We are using Aluminum Oxide, with 5 people in the shop and belts last months. Here's a photo of the diagonal wiggly

Wade, 5/16" - 18 thread. [image: IMG_1932.JPG] [image: IMG_1931.JPG] James

These pictures are spot on that L bracket and holes for the overarm do not line up at all at least in this picture the holes are partially visible. I am a good 3/8" off I'd say, not a big deal just

Mark, I was initially encouraged to use strictly paper backed belts by my Uneeda distributor. In the 7 years since acquiring (Safety Speed 4375), Here's what's evolved: Resawn surfaces aside, I am

Seams on mine are on a diagonal but sine wave sounds fancy. I assume they included the principal frequency and all of it’s harmonics in the seam design so it must be harmonically balanced; clever

Jason, so what brand are you using, I thought you mentioned it but can’t find it. When you said straight seam, you mean a butt joint? VSM just told me that was the way to go Regards, Mark

I will also agree about the problem with the Kreg automaxx clamp.? I have found if you hold on firmly to whatever it is you're clamping as you activate the clamp, you can over power the lateral pull

Thank You James, Just curious, do you happen to know what the thread size Kreg uses on that underside clamp screw they provide? Wade

Lloyd, My resaw setup must be better than yours as 120 is takes out saw marks in a pass or two? We can even glue directly off the bandsaw. I was having bad chatter marks off the sander for a while,

Wade, What Bill posted is a special nut that is designed to be secured at couple of locations (designed for that nut) in the slider slot to mount the short xcut fence. One does not need that for jigs

typo, 1/4" - 20 thread. James [email protected]> wrote:

Wade, Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread. No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop. James

Bill, With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in

Another question, does it make sense to go to a Zirconium belt for the 80 and 100? Regards, Mark https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/