Re: Morso guillotine question
Yet another way to remotely control a DC: Buy (~$20 ea.) a Lutron Pico remote??for each machine. It has a french cleat VHB tape mount, put it next to the ON/OFF station. Also buy a plug-in remote dimmer??and use it to turn a 120v relay on and off. Set up the dimmer as on/off only (easy). Slave the Picos to the remote (up to 49 of them). Then it's just an extra button push. These are completely reliable devices. ?
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Re: Bandsaw for Resaw with Co-Matic Feeder
I just uploaded a few new
pictures. ?Got the ?"Laguna" 24-24 and also the Co-Matic 110. ?The feeder
electric tied in with the electrical box of the saw so 1 power cord.
?Pneumatic not hooked up yet.
?
I had an idea on bandsaw outfeed.
?I put the bandsaw behind the outfeed table of the jointer on the
jointer-planer. ?I will add an extension table to the bandsaw similar to
what I saw on another forum (picture of that posted). ?I will add a
smaller extension to the back of the jointer outfeed and adjust to that when the
jointer table lifts there is clearance. ?Right now the bandsaw table is
3/4 inch lower than the jointer table but I can adjust that to make sure it is the same
height. ?Seems to really best utilize space and really opened up my shop when I arranged things this way compared to having the bandsaw against a wall!!!!! ?I will never need
to move the resaw bandsaw or jointer-planer to have room for larger boards.
?
On the infeed side of the
resaw bandsaw, I think it would be nice to have a removable infeed extension
table like the Felder (in the picture) as opposed to the Aigner as there is no
support piece needed to the ground and I do not want the infeed table as long
as what Aigner offers. ?Also I like the idea of a standard fence clipping
on to that same rail that can be removed without sliding off (as the rollers of
the feeder fence will be in the way. ?This way I can use a regular fence
for ripping shorter pieces with a scale, and remove it when doing resaw.
?The 20 inch Agazzani is next to the resaw bandsaw and can be rolled
out a bit if needed, but that table is higher and not a conflict with the resaw
table. ?Grouping these machines together seems to really work out well.
?
With this configuration, I
save an awful lot of space and maintain excellent clearances. ?Need to now
re-do the dust collection.
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Re: Morso guillotine question
I use a current sensing relay but it helps that it's a combo machine.? If you have, say, 5 machines you could run the A phase of each (5 wires) through the CT 'doughnut hole' and the machine would just start automatically. It make a surprising difference not to have to make that extra motion every time you turn on a machine.
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
I have three Festool vacs. ? Depending on what's in them, I sometimes re-use the bags. ?I just cut the end off with scissors, dump the contents in the trash, then I fold the cut end and staple it.
Mark?
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Denis, not totally relevant but I have Dynabrades with 3/8,3/16, and 3/32 orbit patterns.? The 3/8 is aggressive and beats me to death on wood but I like it for sanding cast iron if you do any of that.? The 3/32 is more of a polisher and gets used with fine
grit or certain wood that seems to need the finer scratch pattern- or almost never.? The 3/16 gets 90% of everything up to 320 grit.? It is usually just right.? Kind of Goldilocks.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: felder-woodworking@... on behalf of Denis Kenzior denkenz@... [felder-woodworking]
Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2017 7:49 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Festool shop vac and sanders
?
?
> I'm hoping to be able to put most stuff through the drum sander at 120
> grit and then use the ETS EC From there so maybe I can get away with the
> /3 mm ?
>
If you can rely on the drum sander most of the time, then you might be
able to get away with the 3mm. I feel like the 3mm is better for
sanding between coats as well, though something like an rts400 can do
the job. Still, the 3 is really a finishing sander. The 5 is a bit
more aggressive with few downsides.
Regards,
-Denis
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Lucky
It's Stephen. ..(tried to update my account to show that)
Your finishing regime does sound maybe a little excessive but what do I know. ..you have a lot more furniture under your belt that? me. I've never went above 400 grit.
I'd be interested to hear how others approach sanding prior to finishing...?
Fair play to you for getting a resolution on the wide belt. Hope the new one meets your expectations. Even if it does cost the price of a ...large...European car!?
?
Sorry, forgotten the name that goes with ayesurely.
I kind of fell into the second Rotex 150, which I agree is a bit luxurious. My brother-in-law was selling his Festool collection for a good discount and I couldn¡¯t resist. I must say I now often use both Rotex 150s, one with foam and one with lambswool. It is a killer combo when waxing a lot of timber¡ :-)
Ok, this is how I do my sanding ¡ª and I¡¯m not saying it is right or proper or correct ¡ª but here goes: Rotex 150 on aggressive with 120 grit. (I rarely need to go down to 80 grit because I get a pretty good finish off the thicknesser.) Then move straight to the EC 150/5, through 150, 180, and 240 grits. If I am putting on a hand-rubbed oil finish, I continue to 400, but lately my friends have been persuading me that this is excessive. (Cough, sputter. I¡¯m starting to agree. Who likes sanding, right?)
I use the EC 150/3 for dry- and wet-sanding between coats. Dry sanding at 240 grit for water-based finishes which really need smoothing out after application. As for the wet-sanding, I love using the Festool paper at 1500 or even 3000 grit for wet-sanding with oil for a final coat. That combination ¡ª the EC 150/3 and wet-sanding with 1500/3000 ?¡ª makes for a glass-smooth finish. I just love it.
Over the last six months I¡¯ve had access to the FW950 Classic wide belt sander. When it works, I finish with 180 grit on the wide belt, and go straight to finishing for large-scale interior fit out where the ¡°smoothness¡± is not so critical, or I use the EC 150/5 at 240/320/400 for really fine smaller pieces, and then proceed to finishing.
I do not like the Classic for many reasons, and Felder have kindly offered me full credit on the machine and I¡¯m planning to upgrade to one of the Format-4 models ¡ª maybe the FW1102 Finish, which is a beautifully built EMC machine. Unfortunately, once having tasted the luxury of having a wide belt, I just can¡¯t go back ¡ª even if it is costing me the price of a small European car.
Lucky
Lucky
You have quite the collection there!
When you say general sanding and finish sanding...what's your work flow say for table tops...is it using ETS EC 150/3 from 80 grit up or are you staring with the /5 and then switching to the /3.?
I presume you've got your fair share of hard hardwoods in Oz. (I have a little offcut of jarrah burr stashed away somewhere myself)? On 8 Feb 2017 21:37, "Luckensmeyer David ?dhluckens@...?[ felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@yahoogroups.com> wrote: ?
This is an interesting thread. I have the midi, a CT33, CT36 and CT48, plus multiple sanders including a vintage Rotex 150 (year: 1996), ETS EC150/5, ETS EC150/3 and new Rotex 150. I love all the sanders and regard the new brushless sanders to be worth the money if used constantly. I can hardly tell the difference between the /5 and /3. However, I use one for general sanding and the other for finish sanding.?
My old CT33 has a manual filter cleaning system. But all the newer CTs have nothing I can find? I do not "appear" to experience any loss of suction until the bag is so full the dust/chips start backing up the hose. LOL!! I have long life bags fitted.
?
Question for you folks with Festool vacuums...,
Do they have some way of cleaning the filters of dust? I see the 36 model has an upgraded option, Autoclean, but no mention of filter cleaning on the rest of the line. There IS mention of their "new self cleaning bag".
I bought a Fein decades ago, and the thing was quiet, but the filters would have to be cleaned numerous times per day when connected to a sander, in order to regain suction. Also years ago, I bought an Italian sourced, larger vacuum..., very nice, quiet, but the same issue of rapidly losing suction when sanding.
For a bit over a year I've used a 12 gallon, Makita VC4710, which has an auto cleaning function where every 15 seconds or so it shuts down one of the two filters and blows it clean..., 15 seconds later it does the same to the other. Full suction is continuously maintained throughout use, bags can be filled to the brim before emptying and I'm a happy camper.
I figure that as happy as folks seem with their Festool vacs, there must be at least a manual method of periodically cleaning filters, but I'm just not finding it in the literature...
Thanks,
Lance |
?
I've had a CT26 for years and like it.? I have an Oneida cyclone to ?catch the big stuff, so that my bags last longer. ? I am not a fan of the tool receptacle. ? Doesn't work consistently with festool cords so I have a work around tri plug. Hope that they have improved that, but otherwise a great vacuum.? Marlowe McGraw? |
|
Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
I'm hoping to be able to put most stuff through the drum sander at 120
grit and then use the ETS EC From there so maybe I can get away with the
/3 mm ?
If you can rely on the drum sander most of the time, then you might be able to get away with the 3mm. I feel like the 3mm is better for sanding between coats as well, though something like an rts400 can do the job. Still, the 3 is really a finishing sander. The 5 is a bit more aggressive with few downsides. Regards, -Denis
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
I have a CT midi, about 10 years old. Just had the motor replaced. 1/2 the cost of a new vac. I'd say I used it at least 10 hours a week, as many as 20 for 10 years, so I can't complain.
I reuse my bags many times before installing a new one. I just tip it over and suck it all up with a hose off the clear vue. Takes about 5 minutes. Worth it given the cost of the bags, plus I'm making less waste. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Marlowe,
Thanks for feedback on tool receptacle on CT vacuum. I would like to look into a twist lock when I get the chance. So far one power cable is all I need so it is not a big deal to change plug on one cable.
BTW, I do not have a Oneida dust deputy for CT and I won't comment on its looks.
I use my shop dust collector for sweeping. I am still on my first bag in CT26 it has been probably 2 yrs. Obviously I am not using it on daily basis.
Imran
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Sorry, forgotten the name that goes with ayesurely.
I kind of fell into the second Rotex 150, which I agree is a bit luxurious. My brother-in-law was selling his Festool collection for a good discount and I couldn¡¯t resist. I must say I now often use both Rotex 150s, one with foam and one with lambswool. It is a killer combo when waxing a lot of timber¡ :-)
Ok, this is how I do my sanding ¡ª and I¡¯m not saying it is right or proper or correct ¡ª but here goes: Rotex 150 on aggressive with 120 grit. (I rarely need to go down to 80 grit because I get a pretty good finish off the thicknesser.) Then move straight to the EC 150/5, through 150, 180, and 240 grits. If I am putting on a hand-rubbed oil finish, I continue to 400, but lately my friends have been persuading me that this is excessive. (Cough, sputter. I¡¯m starting to agree. Who likes sanding, right?)
I use the EC 150/3 for dry- and wet-sanding between coats. Dry sanding at 240 grit for water-based finishes which really need smoothing out after application. As for the wet-sanding, I love using the Festool paper at 1500 or even 3000 grit for wet-sanding with oil for a final coat. That combination ¡ª the EC 150/3 and wet-sanding with 1500/3000 ?¡ª makes for a glass-smooth finish. I just love it.
Over the last six months I¡¯ve had access to the FW950 Classic wide belt sander. When it works, I finish with 180 grit on the wide belt, and go straight to finishing for large-scale interior fit out where the ¡°smoothness¡± is not so critical, or I use the EC 150/5 at 240/320/400 for really fine smaller pieces, and then proceed to finishing.
I do not like the Classic for many reasons, and Felder have kindly offered me full credit on the machine and I¡¯m planning to upgrade to one of the Format-4 models ¡ª maybe the FW1102 Finish, which is a beautifully built EMC machine. Unfortunately, once having tasted the luxury of having a wide belt, I just can¡¯t go back ¡ª even if it is costing me the price of a small European car.
Lucky
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Lucky
You have quite the collection there!
When you say general sanding and finish sanding...what's your work flow say for table tops...is it using ETS EC 150/3 from 80 grit up or are you staring with the /5 and then switching to the /3.?
I presume you've got your fair share of hard hardwoods in Oz. (I have a little offcut of jarrah burr stashed away somewhere myself)? On 8 Feb 2017 21:37, "Luckensmeyer David ?dhluckens@...?[felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@...> wrote: ?
This is an interesting thread. I have the midi, a CT33, CT36 and CT48, plus multiple sanders including a vintage Rotex 150 (year: 1996), ETS EC150/5, ETS EC150/3 and new Rotex 150. I love all the sanders and regard the new brushless sanders to be worth the money if used constantly. I can hardly tell the difference between the /5 and /3. However, I use one for general sanding and the other for finish sanding.?
My old CT33 has a manual filter cleaning system. But all the newer CTs have nothing I can find? I do not "appear" to experience any loss of suction until the bag is so full the dust/chips start backing up the hose. LOL!! I have long life bags fitted.
?
Question for you folks with Festool vacuums...,
Do they have some way of cleaning the filters of dust? I see the 36 model has an upgraded option, Autoclean, but no mention of filter cleaning on the rest of the line. There IS mention of their "new self cleaning bag".
I bought a Fein decades ago, and the thing was quiet, but the filters would have to be cleaned numerous times per day when connected to a sander, in order to regain suction. Also years ago, I bought an Italian sourced, larger vacuum..., very nice, quiet, but the same issue of rapidly losing suction when sanding.
For a bit over a year I've used a 12 gallon, Makita VC4710, which has an auto cleaning function where every 15 seconds or so it shuts down one of the two filters and blows it clean..., 15 seconds later it does the same to the other. Full suction is continuously maintained throughout use, bags can be filled to the brim before emptying and I'm a happy camper.
I figure that as happy as folks seem with their Festool vacs, there must be at least a manual method of periodically cleaning filters, but I'm just not finding it in the literature...
Thanks,
Lance |
?
I've had a CT26 for years and like it.? I have an Oneida cyclone to ?catch the big stuff, so that my bags last longer. ? I am not a fan of the tool receptacle. ? Doesn't work consistently with festool cords so I have a work around tri plug. Hope that they have improved that, but otherwise a great vacuum.? Marlowe McGraw? |
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Re: Morso guillotine question
A variant on Clint's remote starting using a key fob.
VFDs generally have a low voltage output, and corresponding terminals controlling start, stop and reverse.
It's very easy to buy a stock key fob and receiver/relays box set as used for remotely opening garage doors and the like, and wire it in a loop between the low voltage output and whaichever control terminal suits to start a machine or as in my case the dust system...
ian
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
James those Oneida add-ons are ugly as shit
And now ?THIS ?- from the Window¡¯s guy. ? ? :-)
David Best
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Long life bags are the way to go. But, they are expensive! I have the Autoclean - not sure why. I never use it. Note that the Autoclean units don¡¯t ship with HEPA filters. You WILL need to buy those extra - but don¡¯t use those for plaster.
Mark H. Koury
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Lance if you use the bags as recommended no need for autoclean. We have one of the autoclean units but it is used mainly with the drywall sander. Most vacs with the autoclean features don't use bags. The newer fabric bags work well but many have trouble with the cost. I use CT 36 almost daily and I only notice a bit of reduction when it's being constantly used for sanding, takes about 3 months to fill a bag. The CT 26 I use for vacuuming the shop and it usually lasts a 1 1/2 to 2 months. I ?got a deal on a long life bag and it's in there.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "Lance Clifford ?offaces@...?[felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@...> ?Date: 2017-02-08 4:23 PM (GMT-05:00) ?To: yahoogroups < felder-woodworking@...> ?Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Re: Festool shop vac and sanders ??
Question for you folks with Festool vacuums...,
Do they have some way of cleaning the filters of dust? I see the 36 model has an upgraded option, Autoclean, but no mention of filter cleaning on the rest of the line. There IS mention of their "new self cleaning bag".
I bought a Fein decades ago, and the thing was quiet, but the filters would have to be cleaned numerous times per day when connected to a sander, in order to regain suction. Also years ago, I bought an Italian sourced, larger vacuum..., very nice, quiet, but the same issue of rapidly losing suction when sanding.
For a bit over a year I've used a 12 gallon, Makita VC4710, which has an auto cleaning function where every 15 seconds or so it shuts down one of the two filters and blows it clean..., 15 seconds later it does the same to the other. Full suction is continuously maintained throughout use, bags can be filled to the brim before emptying and I'm a happy camper.
I figure that as happy as folks seem with their Festool vacs, there must be at least a manual method of periodically cleaning filters, but I'm just not finding it in the literature...
Thanks,
Lance |
?
I've had a CT26 for years and like it.? I have an Oneida cyclone to ?catch the big stuff, so that my bags last longer. ? I am not a fan of the tool receptacle. ? Doesn't work consistently with festool cords so I have a work around tri plug. Hope that they have improved that, but otherwise a great vacuum.? Marlowe McGraw? |
|
Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Lucky
You have quite the collection there!
When you say general sanding and finish sanding...what's your work flow say for table tops...is it using ETS EC 150/3 from 80 grit up or are you staring with the /5 and then switching to the /3.
I presume you've got your fair share of hard hardwoods in Oz. (I have a little offcut of jarrah burr stashed away somewhere myself)
?
This is an interesting thread. I have the midi, a CT33, CT36 and CT48, plus multiple sanders including a vintage Rotex 150 (year: 1996), ETS EC150/5, ETS EC150/3 and new Rotex 150. I love all the sanders and regard the new brushless sanders to be worth the money if used constantly. I can hardly tell the difference between the /5 and /3. However, I use one for general sanding and the other for finish sanding.?
My old CT33 has a manual filter cleaning system. But all the newer CTs have nothing I can find? I do not "appear" to experience any loss of suction until the bag is so full the dust/chips start backing up the hose. LOL!! I have long life bags fitted.
?
Question for you folks with Festool vacuums...,
Do they have some way of cleaning the filters of dust? I see the 36 model has an upgraded option, Autoclean, but no mention of filter cleaning on the rest of the line. There IS mention of their "new self cleaning bag".
I bought a Fein decades ago, and the thing was quiet, but the filters would have to be cleaned numerous times per day when connected to a sander, in order to regain suction. Also years ago, I bought an Italian sourced, larger vacuum..., very nice, quiet, but the same issue of rapidly losing suction when sanding.
For a bit over a year I've used a 12 gallon, Makita VC4710, which has an auto cleaning function where every 15 seconds or so it shuts down one of the two filters and blows it clean..., 15 seconds later it does the same to the other. Full suction is continuously maintained
throughout use, bags can be filled to the brim before emptying and I'm a happy camper.
I figure that as happy as folks seem with their Festool vacs, there must be at least a manual method of periodically cleaning filters, but I'm just not finding it in the literature...
Thanks,
Lance |
?
I've had a CT26 for years and like it.? I have an Oneida cyclone to ?catch the big stuff, so that my bags last longer. ? I am not a fan of the tool receptacle. ? Doesn't work consistently with festool cords so I have a work around tri plug. Hope that they have improved that, but otherwise a great vacuum.? Marlowe McGraw?
|
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
John
A few pics would be great.? From memory you have a drum sander too so I presume a lot of your stuff is getting the treatment with say 120 grit before hitting it with the festool. ?
?
You have to go for the deals, Festool seem have different specials everywhere. The 150/3 might be a better choice, I typically don't use a sander between coats, I knock the bumps off and scuff with 500P foam back paper by hand. The difference is the only ?finishes I apply by hand are oils everything else WB spray. Let know if you want a few pics of the vac setup I'm using.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "S L ayesurely@... [felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@yahoogroups.com> Date: 2017-02-08 3:15 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Festool shop vac and sanders
?
John
I'll be working mainly with solid hardwoods and using hand applied clear finishes, looking at the festool website I'm presuming the ETS EC 150/3 might be a better choice for me rather than the 5 mm orbit?
Also the reason that I'm pushing these purchases forward (in front of other stuff I need as I continue to get properly set up) is that I think i might have the ability to get a 15% discount for a limited time on a limited range of festool stuff....Unfortunately the Ct 36 isn't part of that range so the CT 26 would cost me ?365 vs ?540 for the CT 36
I'm really not up to speed with all the festool gear...The WCR 1000? is new to me but I can see how that could be a great help.
?
Stephen I have both the 26 and 36. We had a recall on the Mini/Midi in Canada a few years due to lack of a CSA approval sticker and Festool replaced it with a CT26. If the vac is going to be shop based I would suggest the CTL36, basically same vac bigger capacity, the bags are just a little more expensive. I have had mine setup with the boomarm and WCR1000. Both make life easier. The new ETS EC sanders IMHO are a cross between the old ETS and RO's. Lots of power, I use the ETS EC 150/5 with the blue pad. Even with the larger orbit no swirls. I still really like my old ETS 150/3 for flat sanding but the instant stop has me using the new one more and more. The RO150 has its place especially in aggressive mode and is another much used tool.
?
Stephen I have both the 26 and 36. We had a recall on the Mini/Midi in Canada a few years due to lack of a CSA approval sticker and Festool replaced it with a CT26. If the vac is going to be shop based I would suggest the CTL36, basically same vac bigger capacity, the bags are just a little more expensive. I have had mine setup with the boomarm and WCR1000. Both make life easier. The new ETS EC sanders IMHO are a cross between the old ETS and RO's. Lots of power, I use the ETS EC 150/5 with the blue pad. Even with the larger orbit no swirls. I still really like my old ETS 150/3 for flat sanding but the instant stop has me using the new one more and more. The RO150 has its place especially in aggressive mode and is another much used tool.
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Denis
I'm hoping to be able to put most stuff through the drum sander at 120 grit and then use the ETS EC From there so maybe I can get away with the /3 mm ?
?
I'll be working mainly with solid hardwoods and using hand applied clear finishes, looking at the festool website I'm presuming the ETS EC 150/3 might be a better choice for me rather than the 5 mm orbit??
I¡¯ll throw in my 2 cents and say that if you¡¯re working with harder hardwoods like maple or oak, the 3mm is too slow.? You¡¯ll sand your brains out. If you can have only one, get the 5mm.? I prefer the 5mm stroke for 80-120 grit sanding and the 3mm for 150 and above, but the only difference is that the 5mm can leave more visible swirls.? This is easily minimized or eliminated (e.g. final sanding with the grain)
Regards, -Denis
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Thanks John. ? I'll look into that.? Always nice to cut down on aggravating details in the shop... Marlowe?
On Feb 8, 2017 4:41 PM, "John jmkserv@... [felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
?
Marlowe might be worth checking out, ?I thought Festool came out with an owner replaceable receptacle to fix the problem. I ?sold my CT22 before the upgrade came out but I know what your talking about and had a similar fix to what your using.?
-------- Original message -------- From: "Marlowe McGraw marlomcgraw@... [felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@yahoogroups.com> Date: 2017-02-08 4:22 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking < felder-woodworking@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Festool shop vac and sanders
?
The work around for the enigmatic receptacle is to use an orange molded single plug to three receptacle roughly 1 foot extention. ? It is the style that has a split brass flat portion that can be expanded by a flat Blade screwdriver. ? This helps contact the internal contacts of the receptacle.?
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Marlowe might be worth checking out, ?I thought Festool came out with an owner replaceable receptacle to fix the problem. I ?sold my CT22 before the upgrade came out but I know what your talking about and had a similar fix to what your using.?
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Marlowe McGraw marlomcgraw@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2017-02-08 4:22 PM (GMT-05:00) To: felder-woodworking <felder-woodworking@...> Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Festool shop vac and sanders
?
The work around for the enigmatic receptacle is to use an orange molded single plug to three receptacle roughly 1 foot extention. ? It is the style that has a split brass flat portion that can be expanded by a flat Blade screwdriver. ? This helps contact the internal contacts of the receptacle.?
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
James those Oneida add-ons are ugly as shit and expensive, would sooner use the long life bag. They also have had way to many problems and mickey mouse fixes over the years. I might be wrong but Festool didn't warranty the vacs if you used one. ?I can write vac bag as shop expense off so a completely different world from hobby folk.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: "James Zhu james.zhu2@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2017-02-08 4:49 PM (GMT-05:00) To: "phil_moger@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
?
CT36 with auto clean is only needed for Festool drywall sander.
Festool long life bag is expensive, $215 for CT26, wow. For shop use, Onedia cyclone () is a good choice, so you will never worry about changing the bag.
James
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Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Lance if you use the bags as recommended no need for autoclean. We have one of the autoclean units but it is used mainly with the drywall sander. Most vacs with the autoclean features don't use bags. The newer fabric bags work well but many have trouble with the cost. I use CT 36 almost daily and I only notice a bit of reduction when it's being constantly used for sanding, takes about 3 months to fill a bag. The CT 26 I use for vacuuming the shop and it usually lasts a 1 1/2 to 2 months. I ?got a deal on a long life bag and it's in there.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Lance Clifford offaces@... [felder-woodworking]" <felder-woodworking@...> Date: 2017-02-08 4:23 PM (GMT-05:00) To: yahoogroups <felder-woodworking@...> Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
?
Question for you folks with Festool vacuums...,
Do they have some way of cleaning the filters of dust? I see the 36 model has an upgraded option, Autoclean, but no mention of filter cleaning on the rest of the line. There IS mention of their "new self cleaning bag".
I bought a Fein decades ago, and the thing was quiet, but the filters would have to be cleaned numerous times per day when connected to a sander, in order to regain suction. Also years ago, I bought an Italian sourced, larger vacuum..., very nice, quiet, but the same issue of rapidly losing suction when sanding.
For a bit over a year I've used a 12 gallon, Makita VC4710, which has an auto cleaning function where every 15 seconds or so it shuts down one of the two filters and blows it clean..., 15 seconds later it does the same to the other. Full suction is continuously maintained
throughout use, bags can be filled to the brim before emptying and I'm a happy camper.
I figure that as happy as folks seem with their Festool vacs, there must be at least a manual method of periodically cleaning filters, but I'm just not finding it in the literature...
Thanks,
Lance |
From:
Marlowe McGraw marlomcgraw@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...>;
To:
felder-woodworking <felder-woodworking@...>;
Subject:
Re: [felder-woodworking] Re: Festool shop vac and sanders
Sent:
Wed, Feb 8, 2017 7:38:28 PM
?
I've had a CT26 for years and like it.? I have an Oneida cyclone to ?catch the big stuff, so that my bags last longer. ? I am not a fan of the tool receptacle. ? Doesn't work consistently with festool cords so I have a work around tri plug. Hope that they have improved that, but otherwise a great vacuum.? Marlowe McGraw?
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Jason Holtz
imran
David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best