Dave –
?
It came pre-drilled because I ordered it that way.? The Felder Catalog/Book shows a “Power feeder mount” for an
AD/A 951, Format-4/dual 51 (Part No. 430-112) under Power feeders accessories (page 465 in my book).? From the picture, it is a different mounting bracket than mine, and I do not know what my part number is.? Mine appears to be shaped similar to the
Hammer tilt away device (Part No 501-127) (same page in the book), but that clearly is not it.?
?
I ordered mine through Jesse at Felder Delaware, and he knew what to spec for the machine.? It is definitely heavy/sturdy!?
?
Skip
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Davies
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] PF Bracket on AD 941
?
Did you have to drill the mounting holes in your AD941 or did it come with them predrilled?? Thanks for the pictures.
?
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:41 PM Averman, Ed (FAA) via <Ed.Averman=[email protected]> wrote:
Well – I just received what I sent, and all pics are oriented
correctly.? Kind of makes my explanation below nonsensical since you won’t see the mis-orientation that was on my screen before I sent the email.?
?
Oh well!?
?
Skip
?
?
Dave et. al.? --?
?
Here’s pics of my
Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?
?
Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.?
?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to
this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90 degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do
the process exactly the same way.?
?
Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?
?
Skip
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Aigner Distometer up alternative?
? Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2020, at 6:26 PM, Bill Bélanger <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
? I vote to blame it on Mac too. LOL
Bill Belanger? On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 7:25 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Well, it’s Mac’s fault then….
If I did that, then I would think the first post of this new thread would me mine.? Mac's is the first post of this thread version.? Maybe Mac thought this was such an important topic that it deserved 2 threads! :)
|
Re: Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3
I can vouch for Ramon.. he's the real deal and a great guy.. posts really great woodworking tips and tricks and stuff on Instagram
On Tuesday, July 28, 2020, 09:28:21 AM PDT, Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:
Hey gang...I’m new to the forum, but thought I’d share my ZCI’s. As you all know, most sliding table saws have much to be desired
when it comes to the saw blade insert. Small off-cuts are constantly getting jammed or flung across the shop! There is simply too much space around the blade, or even with other zero clearance inserts, once the blade plunges through it, there is only a small
amount of insert material remaining to the left of the blade. Weak!?
Mine are superb!?
These quality ZCI’s will minimize tear out, eliminate small off-cuts from getting wedged, and make cutting on your Hammer K-3 so much safer!??Made of Baltic Birch
and covered on both sides with high pressure laminate (Formica) that is adhered with epoxy (rather than contact cement)...this creates a smooth, strong and very rigid insert.
I’ve shipped over 70 of these with hugely positive feedback. So far these fit:?
Hammer K-3
Felder CF-531
Hammer C3 31
Felder K500P and K500S (please check! The length of mine are 22 13/16” or 579 mm)?
The first link/video (scroll down to see video) shows the inserts in action...the second link is a vid that shows an easy and safe way to elongate the saw kerf to
accommodate the riving knife. ?And how I cut the slot for the scoring blade. ?Thanks a ton, Ramon
|
Did you have to drill the mounting holes in your AD941 or did it come with them predrilled?? Thanks for the pictures. Dave
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 8:41 PM Averman, Ed (FAA) via <Ed.Averman= [email protected]> wrote:
Well – I just received what I sent, and all pics are oriented
correctly.? Kind of makes my explanation below nonsensical since you won’t see the mis-orientation that was on my screen before I sent the email.?
?
Oh well!?
?
Skip
?
?
Dave et. al.? --?
?
Here’s pics of my
Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?
?
Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.? ?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated
wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90
degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do the process exactly the same way.?
?
Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?
?
Skip
?
?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Well – I just received what I sent, and all pics are oriented
correctly.? Kind of makes my explanation below nonsensical since you won’t see the mis-orientation that was on my screen before I sent the email.?
?
Oh well!?
?
Skip
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Averman, Ed (FAA) via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:37 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] FW: PF Bracket on AD 941
?
Dave et. al.? --?
?
Here’s pics of my
Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?
?
Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.? ?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated
wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90
degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do the process exactly the same way.?
?
Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?
?
Skip
?
?
|
Dave et. al.? --?
?
Here’s pics of my
Felder Power Feeder bracket and how it mounts on my AD 941.? You can see that you have to remove both Left and Right access panels.? Only the Right panel is removed for bolt access in the photos.?
?
Apologies for the mis-orientation of the pics – sometimes they show up that way, and sometimes they appear correctly.? ?I sent them from my i phone.? ?Even when pics are rotated
wrongly on my screen, they appear right-side up (sometimes) on a recipient’s screen.? ?So, I can’t say what you might see.?? What’s even weirder, yesterday I tried twice to send a picture to this computer and to another.? The same picture rotated 90
degrees on this one and appeared correctly on the other.? A companion picture showed up correctly oriented on this one.? Maybe it is operator error, but the results seem to be random even when I do the process exactly the same way.?
?
Anyway, ‘hope this helps!?? B/T/W – The mounting system for those access panels is really squirrely IMHO!?
?
Skip
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Skip Averman <skip.averman@...>
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 9:14 PM
To: Averman, Ed (FAA) <ed.averman@...>
Subject: PF Bracket on AD 941
?
|
Re: The Annex workshop addition
I second your assessment Brian. Getting heavy equipment upstairs can be daunting. The upstairs looks like a great shop to work in...
Bill Belanger?
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 20:54 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Well, your metal equipment is heavy, a decent sized mill can be 4000-6000 pounds, a lathe, that kind of depends on size, but maybe 2500 to 5000 pounds. I think, given you’ll spend more time in the woodshop, I’d take the upper story and better light and views for that. Short sidewalls shouldn’t be much of an issue as you can always line the walls with storage or machines that don’t require much height. The ceilings will rise pretty fast as you move a few feet from the wall if it’s going to 16’ at the center. Heat rises, so in the winter the upper floor should be easier to keep warm. The lower floor, given it’s bunkered, will be more consistent in temps.
Try to isolate the wood from the metal side, as the dust on the metalworking machines turns into a pain in the butt… I hate dealing with it in my shop.
On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:30 PM, Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Thank you everyone for the continued help.? Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.? Quick recap (location-Maine):
- Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
- 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
- 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
- Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
- Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
- Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal
-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor? 1st Floor- 10' ceilings? Positives:
- Slightly more convenient access from house
- Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal
Negatives:
- Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
- Less volumous feel
2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge Positives:
- Better view
- Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
- Open and airy feel in middle of the room?
Negatives of 2nd Floor:
- Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
- Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?
Thanks so much Anthony? These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar <IMG_8474.jpg><IMG_8473.jpg>
|
Re: The Annex workshop addition
Have room for an electric pallet jack and forklift.? I use both a lot.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thank you everyone for the continued help. ?Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.?
Quick recap (location-Maine):
- Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
- 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
- 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
- Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
- Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
- Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal
-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor?
1st Floor- 10' ceilings?
Positives:
- Slightly more convenient access from house
- Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal
Negatives:
- Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
- Less volumous feel
2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge
Positives:
- Better view
- Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
- Open and airy feel in middle of the room?
Negatives of 2nd Floor:
- Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
- Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?
Thanks so much
Anthony?
These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar
 
|
Re: The Annex workshop addition
I would encourage you to think more about your projects and workflow - and specifically about ceiling heights. ? Metalworking can mean lots of things, but if you are planning on doing welding and fabrication work, material handling might dictate the need for some kind of gantry crane. ? Also consider getting the equipment into and out of your shop, and if you plan to upgrade or reposition heavy equipment, being at ground level could be important. ? A decent mill will be 2500 pounds and a lathe isn’t much different. ? My shop is in my basement, and getting equipment and materials in to build kitchens and finished cabinets out is always a struggle. ? Also, ceiling height has restricted what equipment I would normally have if I didn’t have constraints (I would already have a Haas VMC if I could get it into the space). ?
In my experience, woodworking and machining metal on a mill or lathe can co-exist in the same space if you are disciplined about cleanup and chip control, although oiled ways on a lathe or mill are a magnet for stray sawdust. ? OTOH, grinding on metal for weld prep or cleanup, or a surface grinder without flood coolant produces a mixture of abrasive grit that gets everywhere and should be confined to a separate space away from the other activity. ? Spraying finish is a whole other kettle of fish, and if you plan to spray, you need some method to control overspray and evacuate to the outside.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:30 PM, Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Thank you everyone for the continued help. ?Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.? Quick recap (location-Maine):
- Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
- 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
- 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
- Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
- Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
- Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal
-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor? 1st Floor- 10' ceilings? Positives:
- Slightly more convenient access from house
- Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal
Negatives:
- Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
- Less volumous feel
2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge Positives:
- Better view
- Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
- Open and airy feel in middle of the room?
Negatives of 2nd Floor:
- Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
- Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?
Thanks so much Anthony? These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar <IMG_8474.jpg><IMG_8473.jpg>
|
Re: The Annex workshop addition
Well, your metal equipment is heavy, a decent sized mill can be 4000-6000 pounds, a lathe, that kind of depends on size, but maybe 2500 to 5000 pounds. I think, given you’ll spend more time in the woodshop, I’d take the upper story and better light and views for that. Short sidewalls shouldn’t be much of an issue as you can always line the walls with storage or machines that don’t require much height. The ceilings will rise pretty fast as you move a few feet from the wall if it’s going to 16’ at the center. Heat rises, so in the winter the upper floor should be easier to keep warm. The lower floor, given it’s bunkered, will be more consistent in temps.
Try to isolate the wood from the metal side, as the dust on the metalworking machines turns into a pain in the butt… I hate dealing with it in my shop.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2020, at 5:30 PM, Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Thank you everyone for the continued help. ?Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.? Quick recap (location-Maine):
- Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
- 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
- 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
- Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
- Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
- Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal
-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor? 1st Floor- 10' ceilings? Positives:
- Slightly more convenient access from house
- Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal
Negatives:
- Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
- Less volumous feel
2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge Positives:
- Better view
- Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
- Open and airy feel in middle of the room?
Negatives of 2nd Floor:
- Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
- Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?
Thanks so much Anthony? These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar <IMG_8474.jpg><IMG_8473.jpg>
|
Re: The Annex workshop addition
Thank you everyone for the continued help. ?Next question is aimed particularly at those with metal shop experience.... Mac, Brian L, David Best and numerous others that I look forward to meeting.? Quick recap (location-Maine):
- Two-story addition- ?"T-shaped" building tying into an existing 2 story barn
- 1st Floor-?flat ceilings with roughly 10' clearance floor to ceiling
- 2nd Floor-Vaulted ceiling with low 7' clearance where wall meets pitched roof, but quickly more head height as you move away from the walls.
- Built on hill side with easy drive up access to both floors (House is on down hill side so slightly harder to get to 2nd level)
- Currently require more sq/ft for wood working than metal working, but I have only started metal working a few years ago and it is a growing interest
- Currently 60/40 time spent on wood vs metal
-Discounting any fireproofing or structural load issues and considering the following, would you want metal or wood shop on first floor? 1st Floor- 10' ceilings? Positives:
- Slightly more convenient access from house
- Wall space to hang tools and store lumber or metal
Negatives:
- Less windows and natural light (built into hill side)
- Less volumous feel
2nd floor- Vaulted ceilings 16'+ at ridge Positives:
- Better view
- Opportunity for nice natural light with large windows at gable ends
- Open and airy feel in middle of the room?
Negatives of 2nd Floor:
- Limited (height) wall space due to short side walls where pitched roof meets walls
- Warmer during summer months and probably harder to heat in winter?
Thanks so much Anthony? These are pictures of existing barn. This was made with reclaimed wood from a mill we renovated, so I won't regrettably have access to these old timbers again, but will likely use glue-lam or similar  
|
Put a dehumidifier in it
On 7/28/20 12:10 AM, Glen Christensen
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I was wondering if anyone stores material in shipping containers.
I was recently approved to be a distributor for moulding and
hardwoods. I am moving forward with the building addition to
accommodate that but that is a lot of nice footage to store
product that i would like to keep for shop space . So in my
thinking shipping containers would let me keep my new shop space.
I know there are condensation problems with containers and trying
to figure how to deal with that. I think the issue is manly MDFU
as much as I hate it, it is the trend here, The other line I got
was Bodyguard which will be more stable than MDF. Containers are
cheap to buy and I have the room, but I have to eliminate the
condensation issue. Any Thoughts?
Thank you as always,
Glen
|
Thanks All, I think I am going to give it a shot, I will setup some form of better venting and may have the insides shot with a bit of spray foam. Thanks Glen,
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 5:50 AM Trevor Lusty < trevlusty@...> wrote: Glenn,
? ? ? ? ? ?I ran a timber business in Northern Ireland for twenty four years. For approximately a five year period during that time, we stored all of our machined hardwoods and softwoods in twenty foot containers double stacked. On the ground floor containers, we racked them out with 2"x1" box iron frames in 24"x24" sections. Bolted an Elu chop saw on the inside of the door for easy ?cross cutting of the timber.
No more twists or shakes than normal, no damp or water ingress ,although we have a very different climate from you!?
Great for security, easy to reconfigure storage in your premises as no planning permission required, and no local council taxes applicable, as containers were regarded non permanent structures and we moved them around every six months.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland
|
Re: Aigner Distometer up alternative?
I vote to blame it on Mac too. LOL
Bill Belanger?
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 7:25 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Well, it’s Mac’s fault then….
If I did that, then I would think the first post of this new thread would me mine.? Mac's is the first post of this thread version.? Maybe Mac thought this was such an important topic that it deserved 2 threads! :)
|
Re: Aigner Distometer up alternative?
Well, it’s Mac’s fault then….
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If I did that, then I would think the first post of this new thread would me mine. ?Mac's is the first post of this thread version. ?Maybe Mac thought this was such an important topic that it deserved 2 threads! :)
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
The spacer block I added was specific to the Comatic Smart Stand ?- ?to make it possible to swing the power feeder across the fence. ? Using the the power feeder stand from Felder, a spacer block was not required, but it was a hell of a lot of work cranking up the feeder every time to clear the fence - made even more challenging in my situation because the elevation crank for Felder feeder stand is behind the machine. ? Using a Smart Stand repositions the elevation crank to the the feeder itself, but it does impose the need for a spacer block at the mount since the stand is not as tall as the Felder version. ? You can see my setup here and why I wanted the crank height for the feeder moved to the front of the machine ?- which is what motivated my switch to the Comatic Smart Stand: ??
I have heard conflicting stories about the availability of a PF feeder bracket mounting space on the AD741 - it appears to be vintage specific as to whether the machine chassis has the mounting space and attachment points for the bracket.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
David B and others have had to make the spacer to work in conjunction with using the Smart Stand if memory serves me right. Works fine with the standard PF mounting post. Also might need the longer extension tube. On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 4:15 PM Averman, Ed (FAA) via <Ed.Averman= [email protected]> wrote:
My AD 941 came with a PF mounting bracket installed in pre-drilled holes (I ordered it that way).? I think, as David Best has pointed out, for it to work practically, you need
to make a spacer block to get the PF high enough to clear the fence.? I haven’t mounted a PF on mine yet, but what David said is correct.? He made one for his (AD 951 or Dual 51 (not sure which one he has)), and he has posted pictures, etc.?
? Skip ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Davies
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 4:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC ?
It will work on the AD951.? But as far as I know not the AD941
?
On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 2:56 PM Andy Wojteczko <andy@...> wrote:
Dave you should check with John as to how he knows it will work. Andy ?
? Could be, pretty sure Felder told me there was a way to do it because I asked when I bought mine.
?
Mark,
? I'm pretty sure you can't mount it on the AD941.? I have one and there are access panels in that location.
?
I believe i was told that you can mount the same bracket on the ad941, would need to drill the holes. chassis is the same except for the width
?
Another plus with the AD951 is the ability, with the optional mounting bracket to add a Power Feeder.?
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2020-07-28 2:35 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [FOG] AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Sang, I was speaking from experience on AD941 - AD951 about $3500, is true though need to ask to get an accurate quote obviously...
?
Single phase 4hp i think ?(Whatever is the standard.?
The 3piece guard (which I don’t think they say is standard on the web but they include it)
3p 7.5 hp i think (Whatever is the standard)
Variable speed (which is standard)
?
? On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:27 PM, Sang Luu <sangluu@...> wrote:
?I don't think it's correct to blanket assume you will get 951 standard options that would otherwise be options on the 941.
There are a lot of options on the 951 so I would simply just ask the rep to help guide your decision. They have the pricing structure, which none of us have.?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Andy Wojteczko
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Brian is correct. ASAIK a riser is only required with smart stand to clear the fence. when i had a custom bracket fabricated for dual51, with ~6” riser, for smartstand installation a discussion ensued. there was one felder J/P model that did not have beefy enough structure behind to accommodate a PF. will need to find those old msgs to find out which one.
imran
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On Jul 28, 2020, at 2:13 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I’ve heard of some folks buying stuff related to metal working and it’s all been re-badged Chinese units, quality is suspect to say the least. I haven’t heard that they don’t support you, but then I haven’t paid that much attention. I try to do my best to not spend money in China...
On Jul 28, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Bill Bélanger < Bllblngr@...> wrote:
Thanks for that Brian. It does look quite impressive though. I wonder about the accuracy. My AD941 is spot on for thickness.
Bill Belanger? On Tue, Jul 28, 2020 at 1:43 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Chinese imports with the Baileigh name on them. Wouldn’t be my choice at any price.
Hello,
I am about ready to pull the trigger on a AD941.? Then I see that this Baileigh beast is on sale for less than the quote I got for the AD941.? This unit does not require a switch over and has a power drive mech like an AD951.
Thoughts on Baileigh?
Paul
|
Re: Aigner Distometer up alternative?
If I did that, then I would think the first post of this new thread would me mine. ?Mac's is the first post of this thread version. ?Maybe Mac thought this was such an important topic that it deserved 2 threads! :)
|
Re: Aigner Distometer up alternative?
I see the problem, somehow you have created two separate threads with slightly different titles.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Oh.... now when on the main page by topics I see that this topic is in 2 parts with the same title. ?
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
I almost bought something from them.? I preceeded the? purchase
with a query about? tolerances? run out that sort of thing.
They sent me a hat.
No specifications were available. Baileigh? doesn't even have
specifications they don't know what class bearings are in the?
machinery? what tolerances the machines can hold? they don't know
much of anything at all.
I had the same problem with Laguna.? They are just a reseller of
other people's junk.
On 7/28/20 11:52 AM, PK wrote:
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Hello,
I am about ready to pull the trigger on a AD941.? Then I see that
this Baileigh beast is on sale for less than the quote I got for
the AD941.? This unit does not require a switch over and has a
power drive mech like an AD951.
Thoughts on Baileigh?
Paul
|
Bill Belanger
David P. Best
imran