Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
Imran!
Great! ?it is yours. ?
Joe in New Orleans
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joe,
i will take the amana cutter with rub collar, if still available.
imran On Aug 25, 2020, at 4:30 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote: ? All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale. ?The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier. ?Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list. ?The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
Joe in New Orleans
All the bits for sale
Detail number 1
Detail number 2
detail number 3
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote:
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building. ?For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking. ?My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle. ?I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here. ?I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
<IMG_4375.jpeg> <IMG_4376.jpeg> <IMG_4377.jpeg> <IMG_4378.jpeg> <2020 08 25 List of sale items.pdf>
|
My retirement (from Tech) is to build stuff for family and friends for free.? If someone complains, more builds for them.? Once I retire the only boss I will accept is my wife
?
?
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 2:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Pricing Jobs
?
in past, when i did work for people, i did not charge and jobs were small. now that i am retired, i expect to do more of these but really do not know best way to figure out the appropriate charge. i just did replacement bottom slats
of an exterior bench and it also needed a wood frame around the back support.
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
white oak was $40 and i am thinking $100 total for the job. i think a real business would charge considerably more and my goal is to stay in the middle so it is good for both parties.
?
i really can???t base it easily on time because many times i work in short intervals. i am also meticulous/OCD and take lot more time to do anything than most. anyhow, bd nice to have some ideas.
?
it was bit time consuming as the cast material is not perfect and the old wooden pieces were bent/split. all seat back members are chamfered on the inside and so are the framing joints (no actual joinery). i did not have the cast back
piece so i asked him to install the frame and bring it back so i can cut the horizontal pieces to final length.
?
imran
?
?
|
David,
so total charge us 4x material? which in this case be $160.
imran?
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On Aug 25, 2020, at 5:15 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote: ? Min four times the material cost is what I've heard. Dave Davies On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 4:13 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: in past, when i did work for people, i did not charge and jobs were small. now that i am retired, i expect to do more of these but really do not know best way to figure out the appropriate charge. i just did replacement bottom slats of an exterior bench and it also needed a wood frame around the back support.
white oak was $40 and i am thinking $100 total for the job. i think a real business would charge considerably more and my goal is to stay in the middle so it is good for both parties.
i really can?€?t base it easily on time because many times i work in short intervals. i am also meticulous/OCD and take lot more time to do anything than most. anyhow, bd nice to have some ideas.
it was bit time consuming as the cast material is not perfect and the old wooden pieces were bent/split. all seat back members are chamfered on the inside and so are the framing joints (no actual joinery). i did not have the cast back piece so i asked him to install the frame and bring it back so i can cut the horizontal pieces to final length.
imran
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
Just to be clear, there is no lift gate needed at this end I have a stacker that can load the crate onto the truck.
Joe in New Orleans
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I just had a F700Z with an estimated ship weight of 1100 LBs with lift gate on both ends for $640 from Denver to Phoenix.? No lift gate price was $480.? Bet it¡¯s around $1K for 1700 lbs.? Lift gate adds cost and another transfer. ? ? Glenn, The shipping weight and size are as follows. 4¡¯ x 4¡¯ x 4¡¯ and 1700 pounds. Shipping from New Orleans 70115 from a commercial address with a lift to load the truck. Others on the FOG have recommended this place. ? ?
? Would you have a guess what shipping would cost on that exact51 to california? Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc. ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247? ? ? All, This is an update on my woodshop sale.? The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier.? Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out. I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ? This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list.? The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ? ?
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via??<joeinno@...> wrote: ? All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building.? For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking.? My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle.? I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here.? I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
?
?
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
I just had a F700Z with an estimated ship weight of 1100 LBs with lift gate on both ends for $640 from Denver to Phoenix.? No lift gate price was $480.?
Bet it¡¯s around $1K for 1700 lbs.? Lift gate adds cost and another transfer.
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of bacchus6015 via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 1:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
?
Glenn,
The shipping weight and size are as follows.
4¡¯ x 4¡¯ x 4¡¯ and 1700 pounds.
Shipping from New Orleans 70115 from a commercial address with a lift to load the truck.
Others on the FOG have recommended this place. ?
?
?
Would you have a guess what shipping would cost on that exact51 to california?
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
?????????? Avery, CA. 95224
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
?
?
All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale.? The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier.? Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship
them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list.? The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
?
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via??<joeinno@...>
wrote:
?
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building.? For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking.? My machines did not get a lot of use and the
use they did get was gentle.? I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here.? I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
?
?
|
Min four times the material cost is what I've heard. Dave Davies
On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 4:13 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: in past, when i did work for people, i did not charge and jobs were small. now that i am retired, i expect to do more of these but really do not know best way to figure out the appropriate charge. i just did replacement bottom slats of an exterior bench and it also needed a wood frame around the back support.
white oak was $40 and i am thinking $100 total for the job. i think a real business would charge considerably more and my goal is to stay in the middle so it is good for both parties.
i really can?€?t base it easily on time because many times i work in short intervals. i am also meticulous/OCD and take lot more time to do anything than most. anyhow, bd nice to have some ideas.
it was bit time consuming as the cast material is not perfect and the old wooden pieces were bent/split. all seat back members are chamfered on the inside and so are the framing joints (no actual joinery). i did not have the cast back piece so i asked him to install the frame and bring it back so i can cut the horizontal pieces to final length.
imran
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
in past, when i did work for people, i did not charge and jobs were small. now that i am retired, i expect to do more of these but really do not know best way to figure out the appropriate charge. i just did replacement bottom slats of an exterior bench and it also needed a wood frame around the back support.
white oak was $40 and i am thinking $100 total for the job. i think a real business would charge considerably more and my goal is to stay in the middle so it is good for both parties.
i really can¡¯t base it easily on time because many times i work in short intervals. i am also meticulous/OCD and take lot more time to do anything than most. anyhow, bd nice to have some ideas.
it was bit time consuming as the cast material is not perfect and the old wooden pieces were bent/split. all seat back members are chamfered on the inside and so are the framing joints (no actual joinery). i did not have the cast back piece so i asked him to install the frame and bring it back so i can cut the horizontal pieces to final length.
imran
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
joe,
i will take the amana cutter with rub collar, if still available.
imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 25, 2020, at 4:30 PM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote: ? All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale. ?The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier. ?Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list. ?The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
Joe in New Orleans
All the bits for sale
Detail number 1
Detail number 2
detail number 3
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote:
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building. ?For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking. ?My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle. ?I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here. ?I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
<IMG_4375.jpeg> <IMG_4376.jpeg> <IMG_4377.jpeg> <IMG_4378.jpeg> <2020 08 25 List of sale items.pdf>
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
Glenn,
I don¡¯t have a guess.
The shipping weight and size are as follows.
4¡¯ x 4¡¯ x 4¡¯ and 1700 pounds.
Shipping from New Orleans 70115 from a commercial address with a lift to load the truck.
Others on the FOG have recommended this place. ?
You could try them?
Thanks,
Joe
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Joe Would you have a guess what shipping would cost on that exact51 to california? ?Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507?
All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale.? The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier.? Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list.? The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
Joe in New Orleans
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via ??< joeinno@...> wrote:
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building.? For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking.? My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle.? I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here.? I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
Joe Would you have a guess what shipping would cost on that exact51 to california? ?Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale.? The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier.? Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list.? The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
Joe in New Orleans
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote:
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building.? For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking.? My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle.? I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here.? I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
|
Re: Joe in New Orleans is selling everything in his shop
All,
This is an update on my woodshop sale. ?The list is much shorter now and the shop is much emptier. ?Thanks to all who have bought things and waited patiently for me to ship them out.
I've reduced the price on the remaining shaper cutters by 20%. ?
This group of 1/2¡± shank router bits is new to the list. ?The entire group is available for $140 plus shipping. ?
Joe in New Orleans
All the bits for sale
Detail number 1
Detail number 2
detail number 3
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 27, 2020, at 4:22 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote:
All,
I am selling my shop and moving out of my building. ?For those of you who don't know I made European style doors and windows, tilt and turn windows and rebate doors with Anuba type hinges and multipoint locking. ?My machines did not get a lot of use and the use they did get was gentle. ?I can supply photos and descriptions if anyone has questions. ?
Crating and shipping are extra. ?
I have bought many items listed on the FOG and benefited greatly from the knowledge shared here. ?I hope others can benefit from my shop sale by acquiring items at great prices!
I attached the list of sale items. ?
Joe in New Orleans
<2020 07 27 List of sale items.pdf>
|
Re: Straight line ripping
Mac, That's exactly the way I am doing it. I am doing each set of boxes in sets so I can gang plane to the final size. I can say that without your clamps I don't think this would end well. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 12:33 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: ?
Glen, ?Looks like you have a nice set up. My preference is to do what your doing than if parts are equal width i gang plane on edge, i take a light pass on the jointer if different widths. It is just me probably,,, but a jointed or planed edge always seems more refined. mac,,,
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 10:50:57 PM CDT, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I skip all the jointing and just do sawn edges, never had a problem.
Lucky, Sounds like I am doing the same approach. My material comes " straight lined" one side. so I am doing this. Joint the straight line edge a couple of times, Rip a 1/4" wider than needed, let sit for a few days ( beer break), re joint the first edge again then use the planer to take to final size.
And yes the Kappa is nice but a shit load better with Brian's set up and Mac's clamps. Now I wait to see if David wants to make some ZCI at some point.
I find it interesting that you have a suction issue with yours. I have none and I have never even used the overhead guard yet.
I am making twice as much as I need because I am going to give the dovetail machine I got from Joe a shot. After this I will buy my dovetail drawers predone for obvious reasons.
This is kinda a test run because my next job is square fluted columns, so i am following the other thread of the problem Anthony is having because I will be doing mitered corners. Or I might try it on the shaper, but not sure if I can get over 45 degrees.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 6:17 PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote: HI Glen:
Nice pic. Nice saw. Nice clamps!
I can¡¯t quite tell if you¡¯ve ripped all the boards on one edge, and are now looking to rip the opposite edge, thereby producing uniform widths? If so, here is how I do it:
I eyeball the first edge rip by plonking (¡°plonk¡± is a technical term in Australia. LOL), the board on the slider without using the cross cut stop or a parallel fence stop. The left hand side of the blade (slider side) is 5.5mm away from the right edge of the sliding table. As long as I have 6mm or more ¡°overhang¡±, I will achieve a full straight-line rip. If you have enough width on the raw board, I prefer a 10-15mm overhang to make sure that the blade is fully in its kerf which really helps with dust extraction (which is rubbish on the Kappa).
I use the small slot on my ZCI (thanks David Best!) made by the scoring blade, as a guide to the location of the blade kerf. I then proceed to rip the first edge of all the boards being processed.
Then set up the parallel fence (thanks Brian!), and proceed to cut all the boards to width, using Mac¡¯s clamps (thanks Mac!) to hold everything down. Just like you have it.
Two caveats:
1. If the final board is quite long and narrow, I find it can flutter in the middle of the rip. In which case I simply apply clamping pressure with my hand at the midway. You decide whether your hand is safely positioned, depending on the width of cut and your comfort levels with a hand close to the blade.
2. If the timber being used is case-hardened, or some cantankerous wood from Australia (insert several four letter swears here), then I will do the above process twice over, as the first ripped edge will inevitable curve/bend after the board is ripped to final width. In such instances, I rip over-width by about 10mm, wait a day or two, and then go at the process again. Sounds like a waste of time, but this method works very well in producing long glue-ready cuts.
Lucky
I am setting up to try my first straight line rips on narrow material. This is what I set up. is this ok or am I missing something?
Thanks All.
<IMG_1097.jpg>
|
Re: Straight line ripping
Mac, it¡¯s not just you - your method is my preferred way as well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 25, 2020, at 3:33 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? ?
Glen, ?Looks like you have a nice set up. My preference is to do what your doing than if parts are equal width i gang plane on edge, i take a light pass on the jointer if different widths. It is just me probably,,, but a jointed or planed edge always seems more refined. mac,,,
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 10:50:57 PM CDT, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I skip all the jointing and just do sawn edges, never had a problem.
Lucky, Sounds like I am doing the same approach. My material comes " straight lined" one side. so I am doing this. Joint the straight line edge a couple of times, Rip a 1/4" wider than needed, let sit for a few days ( beer break), re joint the first edge again then use the planer to take to final size.
And yes the Kappa is nice but a shit load better with Brian's set up and Mac's clamps. Now I wait to see if David wants to make some ZCI at some point.
I find it interesting that you have a suction issue with yours. I have none and I have never even used the overhead guard yet.
I am making twice as much as I need because I am going to give the dovetail machine I got from Joe a shot. After this I will buy my dovetail drawers predone for obvious reasons.
This is kinda a test run because my next job is square fluted columns, so i am following the other thread of the problem Anthony is having because I will be doing mitered corners. Or I might try it on the shaper, but not sure if I can get over 45 degrees.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 6:17 PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote: HI Glen:
Nice pic. Nice saw. Nice clamps!
I can¡¯t quite tell if you¡¯ve ripped all the boards on one edge, and are now looking to rip the opposite edge, thereby producing uniform widths? If so, here is how I do it:
I eyeball the first edge rip by plonking (¡°plonk¡± is a technical term in Australia. LOL), the board on the slider without using the cross cut stop or a parallel fence stop. The left hand side of the blade (slider side) is 5.5mm away from the right edge of the sliding table. As long as I have 6mm or more ¡°overhang¡±, I will achieve a full straight-line rip. If you have enough width on the raw board, I prefer a 10-15mm overhang to make sure that the blade is fully in its kerf which really helps with dust extraction (which is rubbish on the Kappa).
I use the small slot on my ZCI (thanks David Best!) made by the scoring blade, as a guide to the location of the blade kerf. I then proceed to rip the first edge of all the boards being processed.
Then set up the parallel fence (thanks Brian!), and proceed to cut all the boards to width, using Mac¡¯s clamps (thanks Mac!) to hold everything down. Just like you have it.
Two caveats:
1. If the final board is quite long and narrow, I find it can flutter in the middle of the rip. In which case I simply apply clamping pressure with my hand at the midway. You decide whether your hand is safely positioned, depending on the width of cut and your comfort levels with a hand close to the blade.
2. If the timber being used is case-hardened, or some cantankerous wood from Australia (insert several four letter swears here), then I will do the above process twice over, as the first ripped edge will inevitable curve/bend after the board is ripped to final width. In such instances, I rip over-width by about 10mm, wait a day or two, and then go at the process again. Sounds like a waste of time, but this method works very well in producing long glue-ready cuts.
Lucky
I am setting up to try my first straight line rips on narrow material. This is what I set up. is this ok or am I missing something?
Thanks All.
<IMG_1097.jpg>
|
Re: Straight line ripping
?
Glen, ?Looks like you have a nice set up. My preference is to do what your doing than if parts are equal width i gang plane on edge, i take a light pass on the jointer if different widths. It is just me probably,,, but a jointed or planed edge always seems more refined. mac,,,
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 10:50:57 PM CDT, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I skip all the jointing and just do sawn edges, never had a problem.
Lucky, Sounds like I am doing the same approach. My material comes " straight lined" one side. so I am doing this. Joint the straight line edge a couple of times, Rip a 1/4" wider than needed, let sit for a few days ( beer break), re joint the first edge again then use the planer to take to final size.
And yes the Kappa is nice but a shit load better with Brian's set up and Mac's clamps. Now I wait to see if David wants to make some ZCI at some point.
I find it interesting that you have a suction issue with yours. I have none and I have never even used the overhead guard yet.
I am making twice as much as I need because I am going to give the dovetail machine I got from Joe a shot. After this I will buy my dovetail drawers predone for obvious reasons.
This is kinda a test run because my next job is square fluted columns, so i am following the other thread of the problem Anthony is having because I will be doing mitered corners. Or I might try it on the shaper, but not sure if I can get over 45 degrees.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 6:17 PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote: HI Glen:
Nice pic. Nice saw. Nice clamps!
I can¡¯t quite tell if you¡¯ve ripped all the boards on one edge, and are now looking to rip the opposite edge, thereby producing uniform widths? If so, here is how I do it:
I eyeball the first edge rip by plonking (¡°plonk¡± is a technical term in Australia. LOL), the board on the slider without using the cross cut stop or a parallel fence stop. The left hand side of the blade (slider side) is 5.5mm away from the right edge of the sliding table. As long as I have 6mm or more ¡°overhang¡±, I will achieve a full straight-line rip. If you have enough width on the raw board, I prefer a 10-15mm overhang to make sure that the blade is fully in its kerf which really helps with dust extraction (which is rubbish on the Kappa).
I use the small slot on my ZCI (thanks David Best!) made by the scoring blade, as a guide to the location of the blade kerf. I then proceed to rip the first edge of all the boards being processed.
Then set up the parallel fence (thanks Brian!), and proceed to cut all the boards to width, using Mac¡¯s clamps (thanks Mac!) to hold everything down. Just like you have it.
Two caveats:
1. If the final board is quite long and narrow, I find it can flutter in the middle of the rip. In which case I simply apply clamping pressure with my hand at the midway. You decide whether your hand is safely positioned, depending on the width of cut and your comfort levels with a hand close to the blade.
2. If the timber being used is case-hardened, or some cantankerous wood from Australia (insert several four letter swears here), then I will do the above process twice over, as the first ripped edge will inevitable curve/bend after the board is ripped to final width. In such instances, I rip over-width by about 10mm, wait a day or two, and then go at the process again. Sounds like a waste of time, but this method works very well in producing long glue-ready cuts.
Lucky
I am setting up to try my first straight line rips on narrow material. This is what I set up. is this ok or am I missing something?
Thanks All.
<IMG_1097.jpg>
|
I had the 4th wire on my 700z that is 3 phase ¨C just got it.? In the paperwork it indicated you needed that if you were hooking to 440.?? In the US do not use it, so we just cut it off the plug end ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of James Zhu Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 12:09 PM To: Felder Owner Group < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Wiring Felder AD951 3Phase 120/208 #wiring #jointerplaner ? I am not an electrician?either, no clue about the purpose of European's neutral wire. I connected the plug I bought from Lowes for my three phase KF700 3 years ago based on the email thread from FOG. Felder technician was surprised the machine started the first attempt at the commission after I told him I did it by myself, I said to him that I know what I am doing :) Right now, I completely forget what I did to connect the plug in terms of the wire connection :( ? Not being an electrician...if the US doesn't require a neutral then what function does the neutral perform in the EU? ? Google European wire colour code, you get the answer that John said. Seems your electrician?does not know how to use Google :) ? The blue wire is european neutral and not used. Yellow green is ground and the other 3 are hot. ? Good Morning,?
I have a Felder AD951 Jointer Planer that my electrician is having difficulty figuring out.??
(I have emailed over to Tech Support but figured I would ask here as well - once I get an answer from support I will share it here as well)
My shop is 120/208 3 Phase, the machine is 5 wire.? From reading through the manual we cannot figure out which color wires are hot and which is the neutral.? Are there different wiring configurations based on the voltage??
The machine has Black, Brown, Gray, Blue, and Yellow/Green wires.? With the Y/G being the ground can someone help me identify the remaining??
Thanks!
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-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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The neutral performs the same function in US and Europe.? it allows for 120v single phase (line-to-neutral), in addition to 3 phase.?
Whether a European Felder machine uses a neutral is a different question.? Joe confirmed that on his machine the neutral wire doesn't connect to anything inside the machine.? That may also be true on European models.? It could be simply be that they use a standard 5-wire cord (L1,L2,L3,N,G), but the neutral wire is never used.? ?Or it could be that European machines have different electronics that require a 120v circuit, and thus require a 3 phase supply that also has a neutral.? If they actually install different electronics for the US market, I would have thought they'd supply a US cord too...
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Re: Another 3 phase wiring question
Sorry I posted a very poorly worded question.? Upon further inspection the neutral from the Felder power cord terminates at a terminal inside the machine and connects to nothing.? So I can proceed with the plug and receptacle as originally planned.? If I had to connect Neutral to the machine rather than buying different plug and receptacle I was considering hard wiring the machine with a disconnect.? In shopping for disconnects some have lugs for neutral and some don't.? I was asking if one could per code use a disconnect without neutral lugs and if using that cheaper disconnect you could hard wire the neutral through.? But as the machine does not need neutral it's a dead question.? Sorry for the confusion.
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Finally making a decision around building a stand alone shop. Unfortunately, I wont be doing it! ?A standalone building will not work on our property given its scale and zoning setbacks. So, an alternative is to use my basement in a way that provides for more space than I currently use and creates a more comfortable working environment by getting a space with windows and access to the back yard.
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I attached a png file and the SketchUp file if that is easier to view. Would really appreciate all and any advice from those that have done this far more than I have. ?
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Below are notes on how I am thinking about the placement of equipment in the space.
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1.?????? The layout is for our basement which currently has a walkout door where the new addition is to be built.
2.?????? The shop (hobby use) is currently located in the basement area marked "Area to be Finished". Note that the actual size of the current shop is up to the end of the bump-out where the dust collector's location is proposed.
3.?????? The area marked "Storage n Mechanicals" cannot be used in any significant way other than for the storage of lumber which it is currently being used for.
4.?????? The overall Plan is to:
a.?????? Provided a finished basement area for my son and his friends
b.?????? Construct a new addition for a hand tool / benchwork area that is "outside" of the basement for better work environment
5.?????? Overall color coding:
a.?????? Light Green - Existing equipment
?????????????????????????????????????? i.??????????? Storage and smaller equipment such as oscillating sander and mortiser are not shown
b.?????? Yellow - New equipment and new addition
c.?????? Red - space taken by sliding tables and area needed to cross cut an 8X4 piece of plywood
d.?????? Cyan - unfinished basement area that will be finished
6.?????? Layers allow easing hiding/unhiding of
a.?????? Existing Equipment
b.?????? New Equipment
c.?????? Doors
d.?????? Ceiling
e.?????? Duct Work
7.?????? New Addition
a.?????? Floor at same level as current basement
b.?????? Doors adequately sized to allow for install of a sliding table saw
8.?????? Equipment Considerations:
a.?????? Clustering the shaper, jointer/planer, and band saw seems to optimize space usage
b.?????? All equipment is mobile excerpt for sliding table saw and CNC
c.?????? Sliding table Saw (940?)
?????????????????????????????????????? i.??????????? 10' sliding table saw is shown. Need to determine if 9' slider can be used with Mac's clamps and 8' plywood.
???????????????????????????????????? ii.??????????? Is there a strong argument for the larger table to the right of the blade
?????????????????????????????????? iii.??????????? Without moving any other equipment, the current placement should allow for ripping approx 14'
??????????????????????????????????? iv.??????????? Any reason why outrigger cannot be left permanently in place?
???????????????????????????????????? v.??????????? Exact size of slider needs to be confirmed with Felder
d.?????? FB600 band saw
?????????????????????????????????????? i.??????????? Off cut to the right of the blade is limited to 1' 5" by pole/CNC for material larger than 4' 11"
???????????????????????????????????? ii.??????????? Need to allow for adequate movement of band saw to cut longer or wider material given its proposed placement
e.?????? FAT300 lifting table
?????????????????????????????????????? i.??????????? Shown at position to assure sufficient clearance around machines
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Appreciate any advice,
Sal
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I am not an electrician?either, no clue about the purpose of European's neutral wire.
I connected the plug I bought from Lowes for my three phase KF700 3 years ago based on the email thread from FOG. Felder technician was surprised the machine started the first attempt at the commission after I told him I did it by myself, I said to him that I know what I am doing :)
Right now, I completely forget what I did to connect the plug in terms of the wire connection :(
James? ? ??
Not being an electrician...if the US doesn't require a neutral then what function does the neutral perform in the EU? Dave Davies
Google European wire colour code, you get the answer that John said.
Seems your electrician?does not know how to use Google :)
James The blue wire is european neutral and not used. Yellow green is ground and the other 3 are hot.
Good Morning,?
I have a Felder AD951 Jointer Planer that my electrician is having difficulty figuring out.??
(I have emailed over to Tech Support but figured I would ask here as well - once I get an answer from support I will share it here as well)
My shop is 120/208 3 Phase, the machine is 5 wire.? From reading through the manual we cannot figure out which color wires are hot and which is the neutral.? Are there different wiring configurations based on the voltage??
The machine has Black, Brown, Gray, Blue, and Yellow/Green wires.? With the Y/G being the ground can someone help me identify the remaining??
Thanks!
--
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Straight line ripping
Glen, ?Looks like you have a nice set up. My preference is to do what your doing than if parts are equal width i gang plane on edge, i take a light pass on the jointer if different widths. It is just me probably,,, but a jointed or planed edge always seems more refined. mac,,,
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 10:50:57 PM CDT, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
I skip all the jointing and just do sawn edges, never had a problem.
Lucky, Sounds like I am doing the same approach. My material comes " straight lined" one side. so I am doing this. Joint the straight line edge a couple of times, Rip a 1/4" wider than needed, let sit for a few days ( beer break), re joint the first edge again then use the planer to take to final size.
And yes the Kappa is nice but a shit load better with Brian's set up and Mac's clamps. Now I wait to see if David wants to make some ZCI at some point.
I find it interesting that you have a suction issue with yours. I have none and I have never even used the overhead guard yet.
I am making twice as much as I need because I am going to give the dovetail machine I got from Joe a shot. After this I will buy my dovetail drawers predone for obvious reasons.
This is kinda a test run because my next job is square fluted columns, so i am following the other thread of the problem Anthony is having because I will be doing mitered corners. Or I might try it on the shaper, but not sure if I can get over 45 degrees.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 6:17 PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote: HI Glen:
Nice pic. Nice saw. Nice clamps!
I can¡¯t quite tell if you¡¯ve ripped all the boards on one edge, and are now looking to rip the opposite edge, thereby producing uniform widths? If so, here is how I do it:
I eyeball the first edge rip by plonking (¡°plonk¡± is a technical term in Australia. LOL), the board on the slider without using the cross cut stop or a parallel fence stop. The left hand side of the blade (slider side) is 5.5mm away from the right edge of the sliding table. As long as I have 6mm or more ¡°overhang¡±, I will achieve a full straight-line rip. If you have enough width on the raw board, I prefer a 10-15mm overhang to make sure that the blade is fully in its kerf which really helps with dust extraction (which is rubbish on the Kappa).
I use the small slot on my ZCI (thanks David Best!) made by the scoring blade, as a guide to the location of the blade kerf. I then proceed to rip the first edge of all the boards being processed.
Then set up the parallel fence (thanks Brian!), and proceed to cut all the boards to width, using Mac¡¯s clamps (thanks Mac!) to hold everything down. Just like you have it.
Two caveats:
1. If the final board is quite long and narrow, I find it can flutter in the middle of the rip. In which case I simply apply clamping pressure with my hand at the midway. You decide whether your hand is safely positioned, depending on the width of cut and your comfort levels with a hand close to the blade.
2. If the timber being used is case-hardened, or some cantankerous wood from Australia (insert several four letter swears here), then I will do the above process twice over, as the first ripped edge will inevitable curve/bend after the board is ripped to final width. In such instances, I rip over-width by about 10mm, wait a day or two, and then go at the process again. Sounds like a waste of time, but this method works very well in producing long glue-ready cuts.
Lucky
I am setting up to try my first straight line rips on narrow material. This is what I set up. is this ok or am I missing something?
Thanks All.
<IMG_1097.jpg>
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Joe Jensen
imran
