Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Trevor When you say I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone. The sharp crack came from the C3 31 ? ¡°Power gone¡±¡do you mean that your circuit breaker tripped ? Or that the machine has
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Roger S <rsinden@...>
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#114573
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Northfield 32" Bandsaw
What is a 32" Northfield bandsaw be worth?? I will call Northfield monday with the serial number to check the age. Looks relatively new.? 5HP direct drive motor.
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Joe Jensen
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#114572
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Re: Boom Arm progress
The saw DE is sorted, the A3 I want to put against a wall and pull out as needed and use an overhead boom to connect the DE to it. The Timken Taper bearings are a way better way to articulate it and
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@ChrisParks
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#114571
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Thanks Steve. Imran, I think that you are right on the money, as I was fairly sure that that blade wasn't stopping under breaking as before, but as it had been several month's since I last used the
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Trevor Lusty
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#114570
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
If it is a single phase machine you could have popped the start/run capacitor. I recently experienced it on my band saw and it made smoke instead of sound. Are you getting breaking function? Usually
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imran
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#114569
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Most likely a capacitor blew up. Steve
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Steve
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#114568
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C3 31 Electrical problem
We moved home last September. My machine went into storage and the store got very damp over the winter. Enough to cover the tables with a light coating of red rust. I cleaned the tables and planned
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Trevor Lusty
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#114567
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Re: FAT300 vs Others
@Bill James I used the below drill jig to used end fasteners to hold it all together. Maybe anchor style is stronger. I am currently looking into this and May transition over to it I bought all my
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Stan Blaszczyk
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#114566
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
The bit in the link below is good for a thickness of up to 13/16". If you want a greater thickness range get the larger bit. Yonico 13102 (
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Jerry P
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#114565
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Edited
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
This.
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Jeff Brand
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#114564
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
Are you after a thumbnail or round profile? Mark Foster
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Mark Foster
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#114563
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Re: FAT300 vs Others
Bill, I had a similar experience. I wanted a MFT style table that was not a knock-down type. I had heard that one issue with MFT was that it was prone to get out of alignment due to its knock-down
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imran
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#114562
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Re: Boom Arm progress
Chris, forgive a basic question, but why an articulated arm? Why not just fix the arm from the ceiling? I would not imagine that you move the K3. Regards from Perth Derek
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Derek Cohen
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#114561
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baltic birch edge profile
Thanks for the suggestions guys. For ? inch it looks like you would have to use a bit that is wider than the width of the plywood to get that profile, yes?
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Jeff Brand
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#114560
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Re: FAT300 vs Others
Thanks Imran, Looks like it is not like a lego and you have to order special machining for the connections. I downloaded a couple fo their example projects and $4,000 for a tool storage you can get
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Bill James
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#114559
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
?Or you can just use an override round over bit from both sides. Bearing rides along midpoint of plywood. Elwin Sent from my iPad
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Elwin Kershaw
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#114558
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Re: FAT300 vs Others
Bill, This might help. Plans, videos, etc https://8020.net/xdiy Imran
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imran
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#114557
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Re: FAT300 vs Others
@Stan Blaszczyk Thanks for all the information on your custom work bench. I looked online for more information about those aluminum extrusions and I wonder how did you fasten/connect your pieces. I do
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Bill James
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#114556
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
I use Whiteside 1470 router bit. Mark Foster
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Mark Foster
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#114555
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
It is called a convex edge bit.? I usually buy CMT, Freud or Whiteside bits but I decided to try the Yonico bit.? It cut fine. Yonico Convex Bit (
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Jerry P
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#114554
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