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Are you using the platen at 80 grit? ?I am having to almost push / pull the piece lightly on some passes as it not easily passing through. ?The feed rate / gears ?is at the lowest setting.

Hi John, I have sanded parts as thin as 1mm, so you can definitely process thin material. I generally raise the feed bed two full rotations of the hand wheel when using 80 grit, which I think

I think the infeed pressure bar was not set correctly. ?I made an adjustment based upon your comment and it seems to have improved. The piece still gets hung up / slips but the snipe has diminished.

Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO’s! I’m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. Wade

Hi John, Yes, snipe on the leading end of the piece would indicate you need more pressure on the in-feed pressure roller. I have the Northstate sander as well, and do not experience this snipe. I have

Andrea, By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4: https://www.proscale.com/products/industry-applications/woodworking-cabinets/907-3037-001/ -Aaron

Netanel, If your cutter speed is too slow you get kickback and if your cutter speed is too fast the cutter could come apart. When feeding if you feed too slowly then you create heat and burnish the

Just started getting familiar with my new Powermatic 1632 open end wide belt similar to Northstate machine. ?I am getting snipe on the leading end of a 22” piece of 12/4 white oak. ?I adjusted the

Thanks Bryce. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hello, I have an elderly but much loved Felder BF5-31 and I have managed to purchase what I think is a 400-800 morticing unit to go with it, but I am struggling to understand whether I have the right

We do 3/4 all the way around. Don’t have to change materials on the cnc. [email protected]> wrote:

I’ve gone to just using 1/2” plywood for all of my cabinet backs. I found it’s a lot less labor and fussing around. And you can put a screw anchor anywhere. Wade

That's awesome Imran, I have been looking at the DRO on my flipstop myself lately thinking of ways i can make it better. Not sure i would ever get it looking that professional though! Regards, Bryce

Ok, thank you Malik, I'll see what to do

Blum also has a very adjustable rail hanging system that is fairly easy to incorporate into your cabinets. [email protected]> wrote:

Nelson, I have been using the Kreg Automaxx clamps on shop-build bases. They do not require precise adjustments to accommodate the thickness of the workpieces. They do tend to pull the workpiece

IMO, this Festool ratcheting clamp is the best choice (in conjunction with a shop made T-slot adapter) provided you don’t need the clamp to rotate off centerline. This Festool clamp does not have a

David:? Yes, it is typical that I over think these things.? It's probably a good idea to wait until I get my saw first.? I was just trying to be proactive and get some things planned out before

I designed and printed a 80mm hose union to join 2 piece of 80mm hose I had until Felder will send me the 3m hose. My machine is finally hocked to the DC. I also made an adapter to the Aigner

Andrea, Thanks for the picture. There is not much body to attach the DRO. The option I see is to use a longer axle for the flip stop and attach a simple box with DRO in it. For the sensor you need a