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Thanks Mac. All good points. All this discussion now because I would like to rip the last bad side of the door stile, instead of multiple passes of the 13’ 4x8 thru the planer. My saw can only do

Imran, The articulating drop down seals work very nicely I would look for something with a lot of slop, with doors that large you might have trouble maintaining the accuracy they require. I believe

David if you are interested contact Rachael at Sotheby’s. Portland ,,, possibly May, very much looking forward to the trip. You and grand kids how great is that! mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac

Jonathan, Thanks for the ideas. Glen shared similar articulating seal. I am looking into that. Imran

Mark, The concrete in the doorway is 1/4” lower than the interior slab. The 2’ pad outside the doorway has minimal slope due to grading challenge. The rough grading is just shy of what it needs to

Glen, Pemko 411 type seal is probably best for my situation. I will call them to see if they make a 6’ long version. Thanks. Imran

Hi Glen, The idea to recoat is to ensure that sufficient epoxy exists, i.e. it has not been absorbed by the substrate, so the joint is not starved of adhesive. Pic below from user manual, talks about

Mac, this is priceless - have you considered selling non-fungible token for it? When are you coming back to Portland? David Best https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums

I don't quite get it, a cross section would be better.? Is the inner floor is an inch and a half or so higher elevation than the outside slab?? Does the outer slab actually slope toward the door and

Imran, How about a grated trench drain and if need be grinding a slop on the shop part of the slab to flow water to the drain? I would get rid of the stop as they suck if your wheeling carts in and

Imran, Thank you, I switched to another product for the totem pole due to how hot it got. However this is good because I haven't glued up my test curve yet and this makes me feel more confident. I

On May 6, 2021 06:02, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: On May 6, 2021 05:58, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: No, I would what we Dutch call a 'valdorpel', which might be

On May 6, 2021 05:58, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: No, I would what we Dutch call a 'valdorpel', which might be more convenient and keeps your current low threshold and clearance.

No, I would what we Dutch call a 'valdorpel', which might be more convenient and keeps your current low threshold and clearance. When the door is opened the weatherstrip pulls up, when closing the

Hi Mark, I thought it was simple enough to explain. Anyhow, This is one design with a step threshold. There is wood under the door and then in the back there is a stop. In the other scenario, like my

Thanks Mac. That is certainly an option if I cannot accomplish by simply re-grading. Imran

Imran, it'd be way nicer if you made more sketches and used less words. I'm guessing you don't even have a threshold, but rather a wedge-shaped door stop, like this?

Off to french drain! martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell airtightclamps@... airtightclamps.com instagram.com/maccampshure/

Hi Mac, Nice drawing. Appears the purpose of this drip is to shed rain water from the surface of the door to a distance where it can drain away from threshold. My issue is rain water on ground pooling

I second Mac's autographed and dated sketch. The bigger and more conductive your drip edge to carry the water "OUT/AWAY" , the better your chances of not worrying about it. Any wooden products are