On Dec 24, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

This thread has the files…?/g/felderownersgroup/topic/86718481?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3ACreated%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C86718481%2Cd%3D6%2Cstartdate%3D10%2F31%2F2021%2Cenddate%3D11%2F02%2F2021%2Cct%3D1&d=6&startdate=10/31/2021&enddate=11/02/2021&ct=1?

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

On Dec 24, 2021, at 9:26 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I shared similar sacrificial fence end made out of wood. I drilled a small hole on the underside of my long and short xcut fences. The wood fits pretty snug but a screw ensures it stay there.

BTW, there was talk of 3D printing some. I believe B Lamb created a file, so if interested look it up in files section.

Imran

On Dec 24, 2021, at 10:51 AM, mikkel@... wrote:

?Hi Derek - That's brilliant! I have been wanting the exact same thing for my saw where it's not easy to use eyesight to judge where the cut will be. I will make the exact same for my saw. Thank you very much for all the pictures as well :-)
--
Regards,

Mikkel

On Dec 24, 2021, at 9:26 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I shared similar sacrificial fence end made out of wood. I drilled a small hole on the underside of my long and short xcut fences. The wood fits pretty snug but a screw ensures it stay there.

BTW, there was talk of 3D printing some. I believe B Lamb created a file, so if interested look it up in files section.

Imran

On Dec 24, 2021, at 10:51 AM, mikkel@... wrote:

?Hi Derek - That's brilliant! I have been wanting the exact same thing for my saw where it's not easy to use eyesight to judge where the cut will be. I will make the exact same for my saw. Thank you very much for all the pictures as well :-)
--
Regards,

Mikkel

?

I have serviced and sold a few , solid heavy machine . Sliding carriage is not next to saw blade. Better than BU series and BF5 with scabbed on slider.

On Dec 23, 2021, at 11:54 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

?ZUD? or Barkeeper's Friend? I used it to clean my cymbals when I was a rocker.

It's oxalic acid and does a fabulous? job getting those Beer bottle Rings? and other stains off cast iron.


On 12/23/21 1:00 PM, imranindiana via groups.io wrote:

Thanks Mark. Good to know.

On Dec 23, 2021, at 12:22 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

Thanks Mark. Good to know.

On Dec 23, 2021, at 12:22 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

On Dec 23, 2021, at 7:56 PM, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

? David, thanks for the thoughtful response. I have spent a bit of time on the Pentz articles, which is one of the reasons I have the clearvue setup w/8in mains.

I was talking about crosscuts, but generally wider plywood crosscuts. For most narrower crosscuts I use my kapex.? Very good info about the toe-out, I'll plan to use your "pull it back to the same spot" method.

Bob Wise via groups.io

Thursday, December 23, 2021 6:50 PM

Verified on my saw... 120mm opening, 100mm hose. I'm thinking then that the best compromise short of re-hosing the inside is to bring a 6 inch to the port, and neck it down right at the saw.

--

Sent from

On Dec 23, 2021, at 7:50 PM, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

Verified on my saw... 120mm opening, 100mm hose. I'm thinking then that the best compromise short of re-hosing the inside is to bring a 6 inch to the port, and neck it down right at the saw.

David Luckensmeyer

Thursday, December 23, 2021 5:15 PM

Good to know. Thanks Brian. I’m baffled by Felder’s decision to reduce 120 to 100mm. So be it. I wish you all the best for the holiday season!

Warm regards,
Lucky

--

Sent from

On Dec 23, 2021, at 6:15 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Good to know. Thanks Brian. I’m baffled by Felder’s decision to reduce 120 to 100mm. So be it. I wish you all the best for the holiday season!

Warm regards,
Lucky

On 24 Dec 2021, at 9:59 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

The side port on the 700 series are 120mm, but then immediately necked down to 100mm inside the cabinet to the bottom of the blade shroud. So yes, effectively all you get is 100mm/4” of pipe to the bottom of the blade.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

On Dec 23, 2021, at 4:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Bob:

These are great questions.

1/ Totally blowing my own trumpet, my new article in Australian Wood Review (coming out early next year) is on Methods of Work focussed solely on the sliding table saw. That will definitely help, with prose and pictures. In the meantime, there is definitely a risk of “offcut entrapment” when using the rip fence as a bump stop, especially when doing crosscuts for length. For such operations, you must pull back the rip fence so that it is in-line or slightly in front of the leading edge of the saw blade.

But in re-reading your question, I’m not sure you’re talking about crosscuts. You may well be thinking of breaking down plywood? For that operation, the same procedure of pulling back the rip fence is desirable. If your fence does not pull back, then Brian’s suggestion of using a 1-2-3 block is useful. You can also just clamp a piece of timber (preferably of known thickness) to the rip fence. Do a test cut, and then use that reference point as a bump stop for uniform cut sizes to the right of the blade.

Something to keep in mind is that the rip fence has toe-out (if it is properly calibrated). On the topic of calibration, you might like to see my article on Sliding Table Saw Calibration in Australian Wood Review, Volume 113. The “top-shelf” way of dealing with the discrepancy of toe-out when using the rip fence as a bump stop is to compensate for that toe-out using a method that eliminates that couple of thousands of an inch: blue tape is easy, added between the back of the rip fence and where it mounts/clamps; even better would be tapped grub screws so that you can adjust the toe-out to zero when needed.

An easier but less precise way of dealing with toe-out is to reference your stock for cutting to the exact same spot on your fence. For example, when using this method, I reference the stock against the rip fence at the leading edge of the cast iron table of the saw. Or use a pencil and mark a spot directly on the rip fence. Such consistency effectively eliminates the variability that toe-out can bring.

2/ Your second question is about dust extraction. This subject can be fraught with danger in that everyone has an opinion, but that opinion is not necessarily based on science (including mine)! Enter here the age-old arguments around theory and experience, and add in the proverbial pissing contest and you get the drift.

I would make three points:

a) If you are unfamiliar with Bill Pentz and his website, then you can do a lot worse than going there and reading for an hour. Sure, he might not have all the answers, but he has most of them.

b) You express concern about dust leaking out of the cutouts for the cabinet. Usually, the extra holes and slots and “gaps” in a machine base are of no concern because most machines (including Felder machines) are not designed for good airflow and so often the dust shroud chokes dust extraction through loss of airflow. Such gaps you refer to often enhance and improve the dust extractability of most modern machines because they allow more air to be drawn into the dust extraction piping. Again, Bill Pentz goes on at length about this.

c) I think you too quickly discount the 4” hose and your 5HP set-up. Suction is definitely the issue in my opinion. I’d be very surprised if the K700 had a genuine 100mm below-table extraction point. It is usually 120mm. Can you confirm that your extraction outlet is really 4”? Since you have an 8” mainline, if possible you really need to increase the size of your extraction ducting to the saw. The difference between 100mm and 120mm is very significant: 100mm pipe has a cross-section of 78cm2, whereas 120mm pipe has a cross section of 113cm2, which is nearly 45% bigger. In this instance, size does matter.

I sincerely hope the above commentary helps. Feel free to ask more questions. There’s lots of people here who are eager to help.

Warm regards,

Lucky

On 24 Dec 2021, at 3:20 am, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

Am new to the slider saw...

1/ What is considered best practice for doing cuts where you? use the fence on the right hand side to set the cut width for long stock. After clamping piece to slider, do you leave the fence in place while making the cut, or slide the fence back out of the way having used it to set the cut length? I'm wondering if there is risk of the piece being trapped between the blade and fence and having a kickback incident.

2/ Various bits of dust leak out from the cutouts in the cabinet. I have it hooked up with a 4 inch hose to my 5hp (4 inch hose to 8 inch mains), so I don't think suction is the issue. Am thinking about taping them up. Any reason?not to do this? My main concern is cooling flow for motor. That said, I'm a serious hobbyist, not a production shop, so the saw runs in short spurts.

-Bob

On 24 Dec 2021, at 9:59 am, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

The side port on the 700 series are 120mm, but then immediately necked down to 100mm inside the cabinet to the bottom of the blade shroud. So yes, effectively all you get is 100mm/4” of pipe to the bottom of the blade.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...

On Dec 23, 2021, at 4:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Bob:

These are great questions.

1/ Totally blowing my own trumpet, my new article in Australian Wood Review (coming out early next year) is on Methods of Work focussed solely on the sliding table saw. That will definitely help, with prose and pictures. In the meantime, there is definitely a risk of “offcut entrapment” when using the rip fence as a bump stop, especially when doing crosscuts for length. For such operations, you must pull back the rip fence so that it is in-line or slightly in front of the leading edge of the saw blade.

But in re-reading your question, I’m not sure you’re talking about crosscuts. You may well be thinking of breaking down plywood? For that operation, the same procedure of pulling back the rip fence is desirable. If your fence does not pull back, then Brian’s suggestion of using a 1-2-3 block is useful. You can also just clamp a piece of timber (preferably of known thickness) to the rip fence. Do a test cut, and then use that reference point as a bump stop for uniform cut sizes to the right of the blade.

Something to keep in mind is that the rip fence has toe-out (if it is properly calibrated). On the topic of calibration, you might like to see my article on Sliding Table Saw Calibration in Australian Wood Review, Volume 113. The “top-shelf” way of dealing with the discrepancy of toe-out when using the rip fence as a bump stop is to compensate for that toe-out using a method that eliminates that couple of thousands of an inch: blue tape is easy, added between the back of the rip fence and where it mounts/clamps; even better would be tapped grub screws so that you can adjust the toe-out to zero when needed.

An easier but less precise way of dealing with toe-out is to reference your stock for cutting to the exact same spot on your fence. For example, when using this method, I reference the stock against the rip fence at the leading edge of the cast iron table of the saw. Or use a pencil and mark a spot directly on the rip fence. Such consistency effectively eliminates the variability that toe-out can bring.

2/ Your second question is about dust extraction. This subject can be fraught with danger in that everyone has an opinion, but that opinion is not necessarily based on science (including mine)! Enter here the age-old arguments around theory and experience, and add in the proverbial pissing contest and you get the drift.

I would make three points:

a) If you are unfamiliar with Bill Pentz and his website, then you can do a lot worse than going there and reading for an hour. Sure, he might not have all the answers, but he has most of them.

b) You express concern about dust leaking out of the cutouts for the cabinet. Usually, the extra holes and slots and “gaps” in a machine base are of no concern because most machines (including Felder machines) are not designed for good airflow and so often the dust shroud chokes dust extraction through loss of airflow. Such gaps you refer to often enhance and improve the dust extractability of most modern machines because they allow more air to be drawn into the dust extraction piping. Again, Bill Pentz goes on at length about this.

c) I think you too quickly discount the 4” hose and your 5HP set-up. Suction is definitely the issue in my opinion. I’d be very surprised if the K700 had a genuine 100mm below-table extraction point. It is usually 120mm. Can you confirm that your extraction outlet is really 4”? Since you have an 8” mainline, if possible you really need to increase the size of your extraction ducting to the saw. The difference between 100mm and 120mm is very significant: 100mm pipe has a cross-section of 78cm2, whereas 120mm pipe has a cross section of 113cm2, which is nearly 45% bigger. In this instance, size does matter.

I sincerely hope the above commentary helps. Feel free to ask more questions. There’s lots of people here who are eager to help.

Warm regards,

Lucky

On 24 Dec 2021, at 3:20 am, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

Am new to the slider saw...

1/ What is considered best practice for doing cuts where you? use the fence on the right hand side to set the cut width for long stock. After clamping piece to slider, do you leave the fence in place while making the cut, or slide the fence back out of the way having used it to set the cut length? I'm wondering if there is risk of the piece being trapped between the blade and fence and having a kickback incident.

2/ Various bits of dust leak out from the cutouts in the cabinet. I have it hooked up with a 4 inch hose to my 5hp (4 inch hose to 8 inch mains), so I don't think suction is the issue. Am thinking about taping them up. Any reason?not to do this? My main concern is cooling flow for motor. That said, I'm a serious hobbyist, not a production shop, so the saw runs in short spurts.

-Bob

On Dec 23, 2021, at 4:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Bob:

These are great questions.

1/ Totally blowing my own trumpet, my new article in Australian Wood Review (coming out early next year) is on Methods of Work focussed solely on the sliding table saw. That will definitely help, with prose and pictures. In the meantime, there is definitely a risk of “offcut entrapment” when using the rip fence as a bump stop, especially when doing crosscuts for length. For such operations, you must pull back the rip fence so that it is in-line or slightly in front of the leading edge of the saw blade.

But in re-reading your question, I’m not sure you’re talking about crosscuts. You may well be thinking of breaking down plywood? For that operation, the same procedure of pulling back the rip fence is desirable. If your fence does not pull back, then Brian’s suggestion of using a 1-2-3 block is useful. You can also just clamp a piece of timber (preferably of known thickness) to the rip fence. Do a test cut, and then use that reference point as a bump stop for uniform cut sizes to the right of the blade.

Something to keep in mind is that the rip fence has toe-out (if it is properly calibrated). On the topic of calibration, you might like to see my article on Sliding Table Saw Calibration in Australian Wood Review, Volume 113. The “top-shelf” way of dealing with the discrepancy of toe-out when using the rip fence as a bump stop is to compensate for that toe-out using a method that eliminates that couple of thousands of an inch: blue tape is easy, added between the back of the rip fence and where it mounts/clamps; even better would be tapped grub screws so that you can adjust the toe-out to zero when needed.

An easier but less precise way of dealing with toe-out is to reference your stock for cutting to the exact same spot on your fence. For example, when using this method, I reference the stock against the rip fence at the leading edge of the cast iron table of the saw. Or use a pencil and mark a spot directly on the rip fence. Such consistency effectively eliminates the variability that toe-out can bring.

2/ Your second question is about dust extraction. This subject can be fraught with danger in that everyone has an opinion, but that opinion is not necessarily based on science (including mine)! Enter here the age-old arguments around theory and experience, and add in the proverbial pissing contest and you get the drift.

I would make three points:

a) If you are unfamiliar with Bill Pentz and his website, then you can do a lot worse than going there and reading for an hour. Sure, he might not have all the answers, but he has most of them.

b) You express concern about dust leaking out of the cutouts for the cabinet. Usually, the extra holes and slots and “gaps” in a machine base are of no concern because most machines (including Felder machines) are not designed for good airflow and so often the dust shroud chokes dust extraction through loss of airflow. Such gaps you refer to often enhance and improve the dust extractability of most modern machines because they allow more air to be drawn into the dust extraction piping. Again, Bill Pentz goes on at length about this.

c) I think you too quickly discount the 4” hose and your 5HP set-up. Suction is definitely the issue in my opinion. I’d be very surprised if the K700 had a genuine 100mm below-table extraction point. It is usually 120mm. Can you confirm that your extraction outlet is really 4”? Since you have an 8” mainline, if possible you really need to increase the size of your extraction ducting to the saw. The difference between 100mm and 120mm is very significant: 100mm pipe has a cross-section of 78cm2, whereas 120mm pipe has a cross section of 113cm2, which is nearly 45% bigger. In this instance, size does matter.

I sincerely hope the above commentary helps. Feel free to ask more questions. There’s lots of people here who are eager to help.

Warm regards,

Lucky

On 24 Dec 2021, at 3:20 am, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

Am new to the slider saw...

1/ What is considered best practice for doing cuts where you? use the fence on the right hand side to set the cut width for long stock. After clamping piece to slider, do you leave the fence in place while making the cut, or slide the fence back out of the way having used it to set the cut length? I'm wondering if there is risk of the piece being trapped between the blade and fence and having a kickback incident.

2/ Various bits of dust leak out from the cutouts in the cabinet. I have it hooked up with a 4 inch hose to my 5hp (4 inch hose to 8 inch mains), so I don't think suction is the issue. Am thinking about taping them up. Any reason?not to do this? My main concern is cooling flow for motor. That said, I'm a serious hobbyist, not a production shop, so the saw runs in short spurts.

-Bob

On 20 Dec 2021, at 11:26 am, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

Here is a quick vid. If you could get thick block under the tine that goes under the bed then maybe you could move it with the bed down, I tried that but the most I could get was an 1-1/4 which was not enough.

It’s still a little hairy but not really a big deal - hey that’s a-lot coming from me I complain about ever ??

Regards, Mark

On Dec 19, 2021, at 7:55 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?I’m surprised to hear that the tables need to be up on an AD941; that would make movement pretty stressful I would imagine? On my Dual 51, the narrow pallet jack goes straight in and far enough to manipulate with the tables down and locked. Maybe I have a different pallet jack with longer tines? The F48 power feeder is sufficiently heavy that I have to make sure it is swung over the beds (and not off to the side). Otherwise, the balance on the narrow jack is not very… well, balanced.

Warm regards,

Lucky

On 20 Dec 2021, at 10:50 am, tom@... wrote:

Thanks Mike and Mark. I thought I had read somewhere that moving the AD941 with a narrow (21") pallet jack was a bit hairy, glad to hear it's pretty straightforward. I have a 21" x 48" BT pallet jack.?

Regards,?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

<Video.mov>

On 24 Dec 2021, at 3:20 am, Bob Wise <bob@...> wrote:

Am new to the slider saw...

1/ What is considered best practice for doing cuts where you? use the fence on the right hand side to set the cut width for long stock. After clamping piece to slider, do you leave the fence in place while making the cut, or slide the fence back out of the way having used it to set the cut length? I'm wondering if there is risk of the piece being trapped between the blade and fence and having a kickback incident.

2/ Various bits of dust leak out from the cutouts in the cabinet. I have it hooked up with a 4 inch hose to my 5hp (4 inch hose to 8 inch mains), so I don't think suction is the issue. Am thinking about taping them up. Any reason?not to do this? My main concern is cooling flow for motor. That said, I'm a serious hobbyist, not a production shop, so the saw runs in short spurts.

-Bob