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Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the felder-woodworking group. File : /FOG made products/DC & Blast Gate Controller.pdf

George, If I could only have one blade it would be a rip blade ! When I make a bespoke kitchen I would generally use the rip blade in the saw in conjunction with a scoring blade for the complete

Bother. I wasn't paying enough attention and pasted the wrong URL for Mr Sawdust. The correct one is http://www.mrsawdust.com http://www.mrsawdust.com if anyone cares.

I'm still looking for one as well. CafePress stopped doing print on demand books, so it's no longer available. I heard from one person on this list when I asked about buying a used one, but I haven't

Yes I need one to. Glen

Adam, You've got a LN #7 but you are worthless with a plane? That's sad. Maybe the time to get familiar... I do this work all the time. My advice depends on the relative straight ness and flatness of

Take a crayon and mark out your parts . Cut all parts a little oversized. straighten an edge and rough rip than with The parts manageable than edge one side , face , size and than rip to desired width

You have to look at each slab and see if there is twist or a bow lengthwise. A flat surface always helps even if it's the floor but an elevated surface would be better. That will give you an

Adam - Since you are using Willamette Valley wood, can I assume you are in Oregon? We are blessed with mills around here that will plane the big slabs for you. You’d still would need to do the final

---In felder-woodworking@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote : Hi John. The slider is 9'. I don't have parallel guides yet but this would be a good excuse to buy some from Brian. The slabs are

Are the slabs reasonably flat? Do you have a parallel guide for your saw? What is the length of your slider?? I would think that if you can rip your pieces to something around 15 1/2" wide your j/p

Just sharpen the plane blade with a honing guide to about 30 degrees, blunt the corners of the blade a little and don’t worry about radiused edges. Your object is to get the table flat. Plane

---In felder-woodworking@..., <mhkoury@...> wrote : Hi Mark. I'm useless with a hand plane, but I do have a #7 Lie-Nielsen. I hesitated to even consider using it because: ? I'm useless

I almost hate to say this but - - I would use a Lie Nielsen No. 8 joiner plane to get it flat. Strange, perhaps but for a small shop this is the most efficient tool to use. Mark

This question is about practices, since you guys are all way more experienced than me. I hope it isn't inappropriate to ask here; if it is, my apologies. With my shop back up and running with the

And where do you get the "*Felder* Unofficial *Survival Guide* book" at? Jay [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote:

I have a few Leitz rip blades and love them. However, I have standardized on Tenryu blades for use with the scoring saw. Specifically, I use the Tenryu IW-350100AB3 which is 350mm, and too large for a

The Leitz no is still good talked with Dan he still works with leitz but center is closed. He will be happy to help you, Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi

John, Good advise! Most likely, I will keep using my dust collector for now, I have spent too much money on the machines and other small gauges in the past 12 months, wife is not very happy. Funny

I have my doubts this machine could keep up with the chip load produced by a J/P. David Best