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I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads. [email protected]> wrote:

I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized

Just to add a few late comments to this thread. I installed a Wolf 30" induction cooktop and Wolf Combi Steam Oven over a single M-series oven five years ago. The performance has been flawless and all

Been working around residential kitchens for decades and have never seen “drawer lights”. Is this a new thing? Thx, Wade

Hi Imran, My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following: --

I have dimmable LED's under all the upper cab's.? I have not yet installed the kitchen ceiling lights, but even using only the undercab lights, I can find what I need in the lower cabs/drawers. I

I could be wrong, but it seems like lighting in drawers is a gimmick... I have never had an issue opening a drawer and finding it to dim to see what I was after... unless I suppose none of the lights

The Freeborn sets cut both the groove and tongue to length. You can exchange ( at least in the past ) the standard 3/8 center pieces for ? or 5/8" deep ones. I'm not convinced the longer groove

I am finishing up my window build and moving towards planning on the kitchen. One of the questions I have is what is what to do with inset drawer lighting. It seems like everything is geared toward

I wonder if this got lost due to title being long. Would like some feedback on how everyone is trimming the rail and stile stock. Please see the original msg below. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations

That is super nice James. Attention to detail like chamfering the groove and slight nibs on the tongue are very nice. Not to mention the variable groove/tongue width. Bit more expensive than the

Whitehill's cabinet door cutter head set has a 15mm deep groove/tongue, looks nice. https://www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/kitchen-door-sets/ [image: cutter.jpg] James [email protected]>

Hi Lucky, I believe you are correct that with 3/4” thickness, deeper than 3/8” could potentially have issues. I was asked to duplicate a sample and in this case the rear lip of the groove is only

Hi Imran: Do you think the standard 1/4 x 3/8 has to do with mass production using 3/4 material? At 1/4 wide, that leaves only 1/4 of material on either side of the groove, assuming the groove is

?Thanks Dave. I have heard about the use of tubing from quite a few. After this experience, as I mentioned in my earlier response and you commented that a deeper groove allows more choices. I was

When I have crafted doors and full raised panels for entry doors, any deeper wider dadoes with floating panels I have bought sheets of thick rubber to address the issue and works fine. I like the idea

Wow, what incredible craftsmanship!! I don't smoke cigars, but would happily have one of those on my desk! :) Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/

I just use 1/4" OD clear tubing from the hardware store. I cut short pieces and size the tongue to compress the tubing just enough to center the panels. The raised portion of the panel sides must have

Thanks Steve. Will have to try next time. I am thinking that tooling with 1/2” groove will provide more flexibility because the panel tongue (inserted into the groove portion) can be anything beyond

Spanish cedar is a commercial wood and is readily available.? I bought some for a boat project and my local Hardwood Industries had it on the shelf.? Easy to work with but soft and not overly