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I have been using a 5" Mirka Deros since 2020. It just went kaput one day a couple weeks ago. Sent it in for service, they made it a very easy process. Came back with virtually every part replaced.

Pictures converted to jpg in case they don't open for you. Brian Lambblamb11@...

Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the

As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar,

I believe those long set screws are provided to limit the force of the long (silver) clamping bar against the fence extrusion. At least that’s what set screws like that are used for on some of the

<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things> No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle. The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence

I noticed your set screws are fully flush/retracted. ?For fun - adjust them outwards and see what that end up contacting. ?If our knuckles are machined the same they will protrude through the t-slot

The T-nuts supplied by Felder can be used for a variety of things including securing clamps and shop-made jigs to the sliding table. The same T-nut is also supplied as part of the connection kit that

What will you use new T-nuts for? For simply securing clamps or jigs to the slider the nuts do not need to be particularly sophisticated. I made one with wood and a threaded insert, and then had a

Could you double check your set screws and where they actually contact the aluminum fence? If yours does can you take a pic? Mine just go through the t-slot opening and contact the long metal clamping

About the set screws: On both of the knuckles I received for my FB610 - the set screws an along a centerline the corresponds to the center of the opening in the t-slot. This also corresponds to the

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Ensuring the flat bars were coplanar with the table surface was step zero in my process

Essentially. I understand drift is a bit more involved topic that includes flatness/crowning of the tires, blade tension, blade wear etc. ?But squareness of the fence as it relates to the cut is what

To add some additional info, I have watched the posts and video from David Best, it is very helpful.? David mentioned the T nut can not be just any precision machined T nut, there needs to be

1/2" x 1 1/4" bar stock will work, you have to round over some edges on a sander. Brian Lambblamb11@...

Hi Everyone: I'm new to this forum, this is my first post. I have searched the message for information on the T slot nut design for a 700S, I will be getting the machine in a few months.? I know

I think it is the 6" Mirka. I have used it and the comparable Festool at a woodworking shop/school where I frequently take classes. I'm saving for one--it's terrific. Jeff groups.io

I second what Mac said. I have a Mirka 5" RO sander.? It is a good sander.? It's a paddle sander, not a switch-type, something to keep in mind. I had a 3M, sold it, like the Mirka better. If you get

Mike I couldn’t see if this link showed up so here it is again. This is the one I was trying not to rectangular one. martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106