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Thanks for your feedback! Brett - your suggestion with the copy paper makes sense since we're only talking about a fraction of a mm, but how and where do you place/secure the paper when you feed a

I have a follow up question. Did how did you make sure the fence is coplanar with the sliding table? I tried to change the toe out of the slider, but when I am setting the back edge of the slider, the

I will recommend extra pressure modules from Aigner if you have rails mounted on your table, or also buy the rails and enjoy the versatility. There's a couple module attachments that look well suited

I think your slider is as low as it probably can be. Simplest solution to your current problem is to just glue boards without any profile/counter profile. I do understand the desire to use such

Cornelius, I used to keep a stack of copy paper nearby and run inboard of the slider if pieces became large enough to interfere. My slider table I believe was about 2 sheets of copy paper normally

Hi all sliding table shaper users, I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo). The subject has

Jonathan, I do not think there is a way to calibrate them other than setting the zero position where you want it ( by pressing the Zero button) - at the end of the track or anywhere along it. The way

Nice set up Mariusz! I have the same SHAHE DRO and wondering if you found a way to calibrate them other than going to zero. [email protected]> wrote: -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways

Nothing will come close to what David has, but if someone wants to equip their F&F with a cheap DRO (not very elegant solution, but one that doesn’t require fine machining skills David has); here is

I used the birdsmouth bits to do mortises in goncalo alves (dense and hard), and they worked well. Marlowe McGraw [email protected]> wrote:

I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices. Imran Malik

Thanks for that Imran. Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting? Chris

The first tooling I'm looking at getting is exactly what you've listed. Have to save up for them.

I haven't really moved it since it got it in place. The casters I got have a big rubber foot that comes out and locks it in place. It gives my the ability to move it a little but here and there. I

That's what I used but the one that I had was still too tall for my drill and the clearance I had with the narrow pallet jack. I had to run to Lowe's before they closed and bought an Irwin 1/4" quick

My pleasure, is a standing offer ?.

Presumably you've seen Derek Cohen's fence addition. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html Shouldn't have issues with a short extrusion really, its

I upgraded from my Hammer N4400 to get more resaw capacity (12”->16”). ?The fence that comes with the FB610 is ok but pretty short. What are the Fine Felder Folks here using for a better resaw

Hi Chris, I have used this 3/4” bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this

Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had