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Imran, I dealt with this many years ago. I ended up using a 300mm Forrest Dado King on the spindle shaper on my KF700. This gave me a slot/mortise/tenon DOC of 5”. Since your KF700 is configured as

Ha! Brent, we’re onto exactly the same cutter. Cheers! Warm regards, Lucky From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Brent via groups.io

Hi Imran: No worries. No, I don’t know of any available slot cutters or “thick blades” at that sort of diameter. However, have you considered that solid groovers (as opposed to adjustable

Hi Imran, have you looked at the non-adjustable, fixed width groovers by whitehill?? Far less expensive than the adjustable version if you are fine with one width, though with care a wider groove can

David, Thanks for the detailed response. You have reinforced what I have experienced in my trials. I started the project attempting the 4” angled bridle slot and tenon and found while cuts were

Imran, You raise a method of work question worthy of consideration. The limits of slot cutters, and machinery are why we do not see large bridle style joints in mainstream furniture and magazines.

Tersa.

Just use one blade and raise/lower it accordingly. Don't need to spend the money on a dado set for one project. Brian Lambblamb11@...

Thanks Brian. That is an option and if I go that route, I would like to build a tenoning hood to make it safe. Since Forrest 12” dado king is ~$700, I thought I ask what others are doing. Imran

Largest I've done on the saw was a back bevel on a table top using a 12" blade on the shaper spindle giving me right at about 4" of depth. It's scary as hell given you can't run it in any sort of

Thanks Brian. Bandsaw is definitely an option. I am trying to find out if anyone is doing this on shaper or saw. If so, how? Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot. Brian Lambblamb11@...

Hi Brett, I assume you have more the 4” capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw? I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe

What type of knife system is on that cutterhead? David Best - via mobile phone

You can run the planer with the jointer tables down, or if you're doing a lot of planing you can flip them up, put the cover on, and do your planing. Then remove cover and put tables back down when

Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. [email protected]> wrote:

Is the planer cover in the 4th image a separate piece that has to be put on and removed to store? martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell

I suspect most of the problems people are seeing with this blade have to do with runout. You need to double check the runout of the saw blade flange and look for any burrs or dings. Then install the

This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it’s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.

I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european