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I have a 2005 KF700 w/ 600sqft if space. I regularly switch out the spindles. It takes a ~5 minutes and then I have a sliding router table that goes 15k rpm AND tilts. No router and lift table is

I think you may be correct. The measurements were made with the clamping locked down tight - I may be twisting the table. I will loosen the clamp first and take more measurements.

Thank you all, and thank you David and Dr. Lucky for the images, measurements, and recommendations - they are all extremely helpful! I appreciate this group's constant support and input. Your in-depth

As Brian says any deflection with tighting the table is bad sign ,what ever you do in one corner it moves the opposite corner at bias. Tables should sit on temples zero zip no play

I think 125 diameter is largest cutter under table to tilt with felder 700 series other wise nice size not to big or small , get run bearing to match 2 can be handy for tenons or high profiling.

Infeed adjust the hinge side co plane to out feed hinge edge than adjust temple bolts on operator side . martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

The INCRA router table is amazing. I have a shaper. It’s great for larger work but I find a router table indispensable in the work I do. The INCRA can do so many things, and being able to hog out

Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about

OK, just to confirm, you have the outfeed table set level to the cutterhead, correct? If so, then first, check to see if your clamping the infeed table down and twisting it, you want to just barely

Thanks Brian, Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment. I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up

Ok, long straight edge at the hinge side of the table, is the infeed the same height close to the cutterhead and far away from the cutterhead? If so, and the only issue is that it drops .020” as you

The infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed in the long direction> It can't be because the whole infeed table is lower on the handle side and higher on the hinge side. So the choice is raise the

If you have the infeed parallel to the outfeed in the long direction, but it’s not level side to side, then I would adjust your out board side by the handle. Brian Lamb blamb11@...

I agree with David on this. I am certainly a lower skill level than most in this group I have accumulated some heads but have others I was sure I would use and have never put them on my shaper. Get

?I recommend you NOT buy a collection of shaper tooling prospectively. Buy as you need them. I could make the case that everyone needs a rebate head, but when it comes to profile cutters and

Why 125mm for the rebate head specifically? No opinion just curious.

I just finished converting a 15 yr. old A3-31 to a Shelix cutter head. I have my outfeed table in line with the new cutter head. My infeed table is not coplanar with the outfeed table. Should I

I just measured the time for my table saw blade to stop spinning. 1) Powered up, start the table saw then stop ie brake operational - time to stop 10 seconds 2) Powered up, start the table saw then

As others have said, the 4 function combination machine is best suited to a large square shop where you have good access from four sides. For that reason I chose an A3 jointer/planer and a B3

For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with 1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying 2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle