开云体育

Dan, I had a 40HP rotary (used). ran my 20hp wide belt, no complaints, but it has no sophisticated digital controls/motorized lifts, so it just took whatever you could throw at it for power. However,

It don't remember reading about a dust collector. Assuming it's 3 phase, that should be in your sizing decision. I have a 30 hp PP. It's been in operation for 7 years now and has

Dan, I too am running a Phase Perfect PT010 (build year 2020) and it has been great. It runs on a 80A 240V 1Ph circuit breaker, I think the next size up requires a 160A breaker, which is greater than

Dan, The PP10 can take an inrush of 100amps for 4 or 6 sec (can’t remember which) once the machine is running a lot less amperage is required to run when not under load. Even under load alot ww

Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for?

I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. So it

I’ve had two phase perfects. I bought them because I understood they provided cleaner power and I had invested a lot of money on my equipment and realized an electrical problem was something I

In my previous 1PH shop, i used a phase perfect converter, and it was superb.

Eric thanks for your response. What makes the phase perfect the better choice vs a rotary converter? Price is a consideration as I’ll have lots of other shop and house projects to do so if I can

Good luck with your move! I bought a Phase Perfect and it has worked very well. The specs are good, and when Felder learned I was installing a Phase Perfect, they didn;t bother having me send in the

After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in

Only complaint, so far, on the door opener, control box supplied with no knock outs. Does not make any sense. It is not possible to use it w/o hooking it up to power, motors and sensors

Started install of Franklin Door Opener and wrapping steel frame. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

It is amusing to see solutions without a clear problem statement. Imran

David, your reasoning is why I want the OP to check the output voltages to verify they are within spec for the machine. Motors might run on lower voltage but they tend to get hot, especially the

Dave’s approach never worked for me - even by switching the 24V transformer tap inside the machines to boost the output to the control circuits and moving the PP manufactured leg around. I’m glad

Now that the machine is up and running, I'd check the voltages between the three legs and see what you have ( T1-T2, T2-T3, T1-T3 ) . Compare to what is on the motor plate to see if you are within

Terrence, Glad you are up and running. Since we really want to learn from each other I am not exactly sure what was your issue. One possibility is that the input to the PP was incorrect as described

All and especially Dave Kumm: Thanks for the input. I checked the PP documentation and determined the manufactured leg, traced it, swapped wires to keep the T3 from the machine controls (trial &

fwiw, 208v is not "low voltage" in the sense of some defect.? ? It's just a different electrical distribution system.? It's very common in certain industries, for example, IT data centers. As