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typo, 1/4" - 20 thread. James [email protected]> wrote:

Wade, Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread. No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop. James

Bill, With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in

Another question, does it make sense to go to a Zirconium belt for the 80 and 100? Regards, Mark https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/

Hey James, Thank you for sending this. So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6” version clamp without having to modify it? What thread sizes did you use? Did you machine the t-nuts

Wade, Yes, I have 2 different length custom made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp. [image: IMG_1928.JPG] [image: IMG_1927.JPG][image:

John, The overhead guard is heavy and awkward as hell. I did it myself with blocking but you must be very careful not to knock it over and not get in a hurry. Two people with some blocking should be

John, The ripping shoe came with my saw. I didn’t order it. I do have a set of mac’s clamps on order and can’t wait to get them on the saw! Steve

I tried that automax once before I made my air clamps, went back in the drawer it came out of… Regards, Mark https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/

Thanks LIoyd for the info, so the belts you have are all cloth backed? The sander comes with a few used 100 a 60 and 1 new 120. Are you able to sand commercial veneers that are glued to ply or MDF on

Here is the Felder T Nut I have: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/t-slot-nuts-sc123919/t-slot-nut-m10-sp123922 Bill

Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the

James, Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure? Thx, Wade

I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but

The wheel is ahead of the blade. The steam or whatever it is, came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut. Dull blade yes but I have not experienced heat with a blade that cuts well

James, Steam makes sense as there was no burning and like Jarred I did not smell anything. I will check MC again but it was 15-16% in summer which is typical for our climate for thoroughly air dried

My initial thought is your clamp wheel appears to behind the blade? Causing the gap to close after the blade, thus squeezing the blade and creating heat. Hard to tell from the camera position. The

David, No. Any Festool-like quick ratcheting clamp works great on the PantoRouter. If I had the milling machine, I would make the steel t-nuts with the slot at the bottom, so I can use the Festool

Jason, I don’t think he was a rep but I don’t know how much he really knows. So you are saying that 120 then 150 cloth with platen then RO right? Regards, Mark

I'd have to beg to differ with the Klingspore guy, and if it's anything like up here, they can't keep a rep longer than 12 months... On my 43" Sandya, there's 120 grit cloth backed belt in there 90%