开云体育

?Here is another example for you Regards, Mark https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/?hl=en

Thanks for the feedback. Seems it is more of a preference as the safety advantage, I think, has minimized with riving knife, slider and clamps - excluding specific cases mentioned in the OP. I do

Wade, Check David Best's post ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157706537836331). I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom

Hello group, I’m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence. ?It’s the heavier duty cross cut fence

Hi Jonathan, Thanks for your comment. Indeed I forgot the most important part... my problem is the following: When jointing narrow stock, say 2~3 inches wide, everything works reasonably well near

As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You’ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table.

I don't think the flatness of the table is a problem until it affects your result after jointing/planing. You don't mention why you started to investigate this. Do you get good results using the

I modified mine using scrap BB plywood (as you can see some finish was left on it) today, the 1/2" plywood can be easily replaced, it is screwed into the vertical 3/4" plywood. [image:

there are lots of machine opinions and a lot depends on personal preference rather than what is better. I'm a cast iron saw guy. I like the way a cast iron bandsaw absorbs vibration yet uses a lighter

Just wanted to confirm that Bill's Blue sacrificial crosscut fence end does indeed work perfectly on my kappa 400 x-motion analog (for now) crosscut fence! See attached pics!? I did need to adjust

I don’t have the fancy linear rollers System with dissimilar materials just hard ways and hard balls in my old SCMI I occasionally wipe down my ways with this product and works great, i have used

I had the chance to upgrade to a 610 from the Laguna 16hd I’d had for 20+ years. I really didn’t know what I’d been missing and find myself using a bandsaw (vs tablesaw) more and more. The big

Greg Mix, Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience and thoughts. I too am working in a home shop (~700 sq-ft), and while I'm not necessarily a furniture maker, I certainly

yes, you are correct...the wheel needs to be in front of blade to avoid all kinds of pinching issues. ?I wanted the feeder to be able to move the material completely through the blade and finish the

Maybe I should have got a Felder instead of the Laguna 24 Resaw. ?Not sure why I did not do that. ?Just a couple of observations. ?If I understand, the Felder has 2 ports, and not sure the current

Just another solution to resawing The Hitachi CB75F was designed to resaw- has a 2 inch plus blade One of Australias best furniture makers used to swear buy it for cutting our hardwoods for veneers (

That's clever what you did for the foot pedal so you don't have to drag it around when you move the cart. Dave Davies [email protected]> wrote: -- Dave & Marie Davies www.myfinishingtouch.com

Hi Anthony! I have the TelPro Cabinetizer and it works fine, but an aluminum version would certainly make schlepping it in- and out- of customer's homes a bit easier. As you probably already know,

Thought I would give an update, I received my FAT 300S and have been busy building my new worktop/assembly table. About 90% complete at this point, need to raise the Festool vac clamps to be even with

I agree - nicely done. Question: How far is the point of max wheel pressure back from the front of the blade? Generally I’ve seen the feeder mounted further from the blade so as to avoid scouring