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Thanks, Bill

Brian, Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it. Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78” slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and

The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it’s not a “partial sled”, I didn’t say that in my previous post, but you don’t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide

Brian, I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider. Imran

Hi Scott, The pic is not coming thru for some reason. I tried the website as well. Imran

Jim, As all of your pieces that I have seen, absolutely stunning. I assume the front bottom apron is veneered with vertical grain walnut. Inspiring !!! Imran

Imran, I have Mac's clamps and made a simple clamp holder out of scrap wood. ?I don't use it that often, but when needed it it quick, sturdy and protects the clamp. Scott

I would look to the start Capacitor.? It's cheap to replace capacitors.

Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.

Brian, You are correct my slider is 10'-6" I really am only sliding it 5 1/2 feet. maybe I am overthinking this. I am just going to build it and see what happens. Glen Alpine Moulding and Millwork

Imran, Let me kick that around . The cdx was for the curve form, I got ac for the sled. About lumber pricing here CDX is now 62 bucks AC is 53 go figure, I really am thinking about going back and

You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of

Glen, Since you are beefing up the CDX, for the dovetails you could consider going with fixed insert in the slider slot and a dado in the sled. BTW, is CDX flat enough? Lastly, I was going to have the

Imran Thanks, That is route I will go. Any thoughts on the handle issue, maybe you have a different handle and you don't have that issue. I was going to try and modify it but the fact that I have the

Glen, I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip

Hi Irman, I kinda wanted to do the tslot version to eliminate lift issues, But I get your point that it will be harder to insert. I wanted to screw from the bottom but that is going to be hard but

? Glen, For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can

Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked. I was going to try the same

The instructions say don’t let it fall 4cm below the plug level. Arrow points to the plug in pic below: I assume this is done by placing the PF upside down. Is this correct? Imran

Mac I don't think I could joint a 16 ft board and get it straight and it would take multiple passes. I do use that technique when i am making stiles and rails and the like. I like the N22 idea, I will