Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
You¡¯d think they would be adjustable, but they are not. ? Been down that road.
David Best
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If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
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On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are NOT height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
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A word of warning¡
I used to have a CompAir hydrovane which was run intermittently. Over a two-year period, I destroyed the compressor by making two key mistakes:
1. I didn¡¯t service the compressor. It was the first air compressor I had ever had in my shop and I stupidly just left it in the corner for two years and didn¡¯t touch it. All my bad.
2. But the word of warning is this: Hydrovanes, and rotary screw compressors, really do need to be run more than less and the reason is that they must get up to operating temperature on a regular basis. If your compressor needs are low (most woodworkers only need a little air) then the compressor turns on, fills the receiver, and turns off. While I¡¯m less up with the theory, in practice, water starts to develop or appear in the oil, and eventually destroys the seals and mechanical ¡°vanes¡± over time. If these machines are allowed to run longer, they get up to operating temperature and burn off any accumulated water.
I threw away my hydrovane, and several grand, but perhaps wasted my money again buying a rotary screw compressor. They are so quiet! Rotary screws also need to be run at operating temperature on a regular basis. I certainly no longer make the first mistake listed above. As to the second, I have an electronic valve in my air line which bleeds the receiver dry and forces the compressor to come on for 30 mins straight, once a week. This serves, in theory, to burn off any accumulated oil in the compressor.
I hope to have the rotary screw for longer than 2 years. EEK.
Agreed Brian, Kaeser compressors are very nice. I wanted to justify the price, but my local rep is a wanker, so I went with Pilot Air (a competitor). My screw is made in Italy, and is still expensive, but perhaps 30% cheaper than Kaeser.
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When I was with Arthur D Little we pioneered Scroll Technology.? Had a contract to develop a compressor? for the supercharger for the M1 Abrams and were working on Blood Pumps as it turns out? only peristaltic and scroll pumps can pump blood without damaging the cells. Scroll technology is a very effective? and clean compression tech. It's just two opposing matched? involute scrolls with one of them moving so as to create an ever reducing physical space?
On 12/19/2017 8:34 PM, Brian Lamb ?blamb11@...?[felder-woodworking] wrote: I¡¯m very familiar with rotary compressors, not sure about the ¡°scroll¡± units. I wouldn¡¯t buy any rotary screw other than Kaeser, and a 5hp unit would run somewhere north of $7k. They are super durable and work fantastic, but are meant to be used a lot. If you don¡¯t have an almost constant need for a large volume of air, you are better off with a piston compressor.
OK,
Just looking for a compressor for the garage.
Thinking of getting a Quincy QT-5 60 Gallon just
for regular use. Nothing special but more air than
a hobby comp.
As I'm looking around the site I come across a
Scroll Compressor. Supposedly quieter and oil-less.
Comes w/ a dryer too to keep your lines dry. OK.
Pricey of course.
Anyone have experience with a scroll compressor
and is it ok for regular use? You know, nail guns, clamping,
mechanic work, CNC.... hell since im at it, sandblasting!
Lets forget price for now. Are these acceptable for use
in a wood working enviroment?
Here's a 5hp Scroll compressor to 'compare' with:
Nope... not getting it, just curious.
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
The link James sent was ¡°broken¡±, you had to copy and paste the tail end for it to work. It didn¡¯t really apply anyway. Looking at your pictures, the plastic V-blocks mounted to the underside of the outrigger that mate to the slider are held in by the two allen bolts closest to the edge (I think, I don¡¯t have this type of slider). I suspect the v-blocks have set screws underneath pressing up against the steel bar, if you loosen the top screws, tighten the bottom screws to level/raise the outrigger, then snug up the top screws again, you should be able to adjust for level.
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
copy and pasted worked...thanks!!
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
And the following link from David Best should help a lot
StonehorseShop/K975_Install/Felder_Commissioning/2-2-1%20Outrigger%20Axle.htm
James
?
On the F-channel machines, there are set screws to set the height of the outrigger. If you have the P channel (X-roll) I would assume there are also adjustments. I seem to recall black plastic pieces that rest of the top of the slider, you might find the adjustment there.
I have discovered my crosscut wagon on my K700S is .015 lower than the slider.? in other words if i put material on the wagon to be crosscut and slide it towards the slider? it catches on the lip of the slider. Can someone recommend how to correct this on my k700... how do i rase it?? thanks in advance?
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
ARe you saying the outrigger attachment is set to low on the slider coupling? Mac Designing and building for 47 years
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On Dec 20, 2017, at 7:49 AM, dawgyeats@... [felder-woodworking] < felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
?
I have discovered my crosscut wagon on my K700S is .015 lower than the slider.? in other words if i put material on the wagon to be crosscut and slide it towards the slider? it catches on the lip of the slider. Can someone recommend how to correct this on my k700... how do i rase it?? thanks in advance
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
On the F-channel machines, there are set screws to set the height of the outrigger. If you have the P channel (X-roll) I would assume there are also adjustments. I seem to recall black plastic pieces that rest of the top of the slider, you might find the adjustment there.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have discovered my crosscut wagon on my K700S is .015 lower than the slider.? in other words if i put material on the wagon to be crosscut and slide it towards the slider? it catches on the lip of the slider. Can someone recommend how to correct this on my k700... how do i rase it?? thanks in advance?
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Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
I have discovered my crosscut wagon on my K700S is .015 lower than the slider.? in other words if i put material on the wagon to be crosscut and slide it towards the slider? it catches on the lip of the slider. Can someone recommend how to correct this on my k700... how do i rase it?? thanks in advance
|
When I was with Arthur D Little we pioneered Scroll Technology.
Had a contract to develop a compressor for the supercharger for
the M1 Abrams and were working on Blood Pumps as it turns out
only peristaltic and scroll pumps can pump blood without damaging
the cells. Scroll technology is a very effective and clean
compression tech. It's just two opposing matched involute scrolls
with one of them moving so as to create an ever reducing physical
space
On 12/19/2017 8:34 PM, Brian Lamb
blamb11@... [felder-woodworking] wrote:
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Show quoted text
Im very familiar with rotary compressors, not sure about the
scroll units. I wouldnt buy any rotary screw other than Kaeser,
and a 5hp unit would run somewhere north of $7k. They are super
durable and work fantastic, but are meant to be used a lot. If you
dont have an almost constant need for a large volume of air, you
are better off with a piston compressor.
OK,
Just looking for a compressor for the garage.
Thinking of getting a Quincy QT-5 60 Gallon just
for regular use. Nothing special but more air than
a hobby comp.
As I'm looking around the site I come across a
Scroll Compressor. Supposedly quieter and
oil-less.
Comes w/ a dryer too to keep your lines dry. OK.
Pricey of course.
Anyone have experience with a scroll compressor
and is it ok for regular use? You know, nail guns,
clamping,
mechanic work, CNC.... hell since im at it,
sandblasting!
Lets forget price for now. Are these acceptable
for use
in a wood working enviroment?
Here's a 5hp Scroll compressor to 'compare' with:
Nope... not getting it, just curious.
|
The screw or scroll compressors are meant to run all the time.? I have a great old 5HP Quincy that I run slower with a 3HP motor (only 425 RPM) so it's really quiet.? I have a friend who is on here occasionally.? He did a ton of research for his home shop.??He ended up getting a rotary vane Mattei Compressor.? Super quiet, built in dryer, really really nice. Like $5K.
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Yes, rotary or screw compressors are usually left on all the time. We have two big units that run 24/7 at work. But at home I have a Quincy piston. They are actually quite good and have a 100% duty cycle if needed.
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I¡¯m very familiar with rotary compressors, not sure about the ¡°scroll¡± units. I wouldn¡¯t buy any rotary screw other than Kaeser, and a 5hp unit would run somewhere north of $7k. They are super durable and work fantastic, but are meant to be used a lot. If you don¡¯t have an almost constant need for a large volume of air, you are better off with a piston compressor.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
OK,
Just looking for a compressor for the garage.
Thinking of getting a Quincy QT-5 60 Gallon just
for regular use. Nothing special but more air than
a hobby comp.
As I'm looking around the site I come across a
Scroll Compressor. Supposedly quieter and oil-less.
Comes w/ a dryer too to keep your lines dry. OK.
Pricey of course.
Anyone have experience with a scroll compressor
and is it ok for regular use? You know, nail guns, clamping,
mechanic work, CNC.... hell since im at it, sandblasting!
Lets forget price for now. Are these acceptable for use
in a wood working enviroment?
Here's a 5hp Scroll compressor to 'compare' with:
Nope... not getting it, just curious.
|
OK,
Just looking for a compressor for the garage.
Thinking of getting a Quincy QT-5 60 Gallon just
for regular use. Nothing special but more air than
a hobby comp.
As I'm looking around the site I come across a
Scroll Compressor. Supposedly quieter and oil-less.
Comes w/ a dryer too to keep your lines dry. OK.
Pricey of course.
Anyone have experience with a scroll compressor
and is it ok for regular use? You know, nail guns, clamping,
mechanic work, CNC.... hell since im at it, sandblasting!
Lets forget price for now. Are these acceptable for use
in a wood working enviroment?
Here's a 5hp Scroll compressor to 'compare' with:
https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/FS-Curtis-FES04A6U2QXXX/p77608.html
Nope... not getting it, just curious.
|
Re: Jig saw recommendation
Like? Brian I ran Makita stuff for year's and had the same issue with the cell's not lasting. Tried an 18v Milwaukee and was disappointed, it was to unstable on the bench, fell over all the time and damaged work, chuck was out of wack...... Now I have 3 festool drills and smile every time I use them.
Jonathan?
Fine Interior Woodwork
On 17 Dec 2017 22:58, "Brian Lamb blamb11@... [felder-woodworking]" < felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
?
I ran Makita for years and got tired of buying batteries every couple of years. Sold off all my Makita stuff and bought Bosch, been about 8 years now and I haven¡¯t thrown away a battery yet, this is on 12V and 18V stuff.
They are all made in China but the magic of a good battery pack is how well each cell is matched with the others.? If you spend any time on the RC electric forums you'll see the main difference from run of the mill packs and premium is how well the cells are match to each other.? I am blown away by how long the Festool and the Bosch packs last. My shop is in the AZ summer heat and I have Festool packs that are 8 years old and still seem perfect.
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Re: Jig saw recommendation
I ran Makita for years and got tired of buying batteries every couple of years. Sold off all my Makita stuff and bought Bosch, been about 8 years now and I haven¡¯t thrown away a battery yet, this is on 12V and 18V stuff.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
They are all made in China but the magic of a good battery pack is how well each cell is matched with the others.? If you spend any time on the RC electric forums you'll see the main difference from run of the mill packs and premium is how well the cells are match to each other.? I am blown away by how long the Festool and the Bosch packs last. My shop is in the AZ summer heat and I have Festool packs that are 8 years old and still seem perfect.
|
Re: Jig saw recommendation
They are all made in China but the magic of a good battery pack is how well each cell is matched with the others.? If you spend any time on the RC electric forums you'll see the main difference from run of the mill packs and premium is how well the cells are match to each other.? I am blown away by how long the Festool and the Bosch packs last. My shop is in the AZ summer heat and I have Festool packs that are 8 years old and still seem perfect.
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David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
Joe Jensen