Paul,

May I suggest you use the cutterhead body and not the knives. The
reasoning behind this is that unless the knives are set exactly
parallel to the cuttterhead you run the risk of being further out of
tolerance than if you use the cutterhead body as your point of
reference.

Hope this helps.
Rod


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=183

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and

tomorrow

so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial

gauge is

the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the way

to go.

I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding

checking the

table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the

blade or

the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

Hi guys,

Finally I updated the FELDER USA homepage. The design of our new
homepage is a ongoing process. I would welcome any comments,
suggestions and tips on how to furhter improve it. You can send me your
comments directly to wolfgang@...

thanks
Wolfgang

Thanks to Rod, John, and John for the help. I had to work today and tomorrow
so I haven't done anything today on the planer. I think the dial gauge is
the way to go and since I don't own one I think the Oneway is the way to go.
I'll order one and then try the suggestions you made regarding checking the
table. I am still not clear as to whether you use the nadir of the blade or
the planner drum for the calibration. Thanks, Paul

Dennis, there are pictures in the vault of the new machines, and there
was also a short discussion of some of the improvements. Get to the web
site:



and look/search through the messages... you can also get to the vault
from there - the pictures are in the "New Machines" folder.

..Geoff

"dennis l. jacob" <dljaco-@...> wrote:
(snip)

4 or 5 group combo or table saw/shaper and joiner/planner units. Since
Felder hasn't mentioned the "new" 700 series, does anybody know what
changes or differences there are with the old models? Thanks again

for

you insight. Dennis L. Jacob

Dear Leo,
These work well, just remember to check the height of the bushing
stack. If it is to tall when you tighten down your collars and they hit
the bushing, it will be crushed and you will have trouble getting the
whole assembly off the spindle.
But I'm sure you are careful.
Have fun,
JH


"leo lopez" <leozepolus-@...> wrote:
original article:
=167

For those who are interested, I was able to find well machined

bushings

for using 1-1/4" tooling on a 30mm spindle. Amana's catalog No.

BU-566

is just such a bushing. This was not easy to find since the required
wall thickness for this spindle adaptation is a fraction of a
millimeter. Total cost for two bushings was $20.00.

Dear Scott,

What kind of finish did you get when you used that Beamer. Any snipe on
the out feed. How about cut off, I'll bet you could cut of who ever you
want. And I'm sure its got more than two feed speeds.
I had a not on my desk to call you. Let me know whats up. I'll write
back ASAP
JH




"scott slater" <scot-@...> wrote:
original article:
=166

Hi all,

This has nothing to do with woodworking, but I have often heard the
comparison of Felder to BMW. Today I went to the Ultimate Driving
Experience, at Hollywood Park (near Los Angeles). It was a 2 hour
driving school with the new BMW SUV X5, it was free and lots of fun.
There were professional drivers teaching you how to drive a car like
you would not believe. You get to drive the car at its limits,

learning

quite a bit. It was one of the most exciting things I have done in a
long time.

The program tours the country, check out www.bmwusa.com - go to events
then to the Ultimate Driving Experience.

I know that it will be in San Francisco next month. It will also be in
Dallas & Miami. You do not have to own a BMW to take part in it. If

you

have the time and like to drive, check it out. -- Scott

Dear Rod,
Great feed back. Thank you, I'm please you found the info useful. I
like you gauge setup. I now carry a ONEWAY gauge with me when ever I
travel. I bought it from Garrett Wade $78.00 and it is really easy to
use.
Talk to you soon.
JH






"rod barton" <r_barto-@...> wrote:
original article:
=177

Good morning Paul,
I too have experience what you have described. I found that the

planer

table was not adjusted exactly parallel with the cutter head. May I
suggest you use a dial indicator (one that shows in .001" graduations
is best) mounted in a holding stand to ensure your planer bed is
parallel to the cutter head. Once the planner bed is parallel you

then

adjust the infeed and outfeed rollers to be parallel with the planer
bed. Attached is an e-mail that John Hartshorne sent me giving
directions and the necessary tolerances you will want to use.

Here are the instructions for the holding jig I built for my 2"
diameter dial indicator:

The stand looks like box, which has had the front, and bottom cut

out.

I made the sides and a back with 1/4" material (massonite is a good

and

stable material that can be used but shop scrapes work just as well)
and the top is 3/4". The completed outside dimensions are 4-1/2"

tall,

3-1/2" wide and 3" deep. The bottom of the sides look like an upside
down U with each leg portion that touches the table being a 1/4" x

1/4".

To accomplish this I started with a board that was 9-1/8" long by
2-3/4" wide. Using the diagonal corners I found the center of the
board and marked it. I then drilled a hole with a 2-1/4" forstner

bit.

If you don't have a drill bit this large you could use a bandsaw or
coping saw. I then cut the board in half (4-1/2" x 2-3/4") through

the

middle of the hole. Next I cut the top 3" x 2-3/4", I then drilled a
hole through the center of top that corresponds to the diameter of the
holding post of the dial indicator. To hold the dial indicator in
place I drilled a hole through the front edge of the board and tapped

a

thumbscrew so it would make contact with the holding post (don't over
tighten when in use). I assembled the top and sides together. Make
sure you have a very flat surface and that everything is square when
doing this. Next attach the back (4-1/4" x 3-1/2"), you will want to
leave a 1/4" gap at the bottom so that it does not make contact with
the planer table. Once the assembly is dry you should sand the legs
exactly flat using 320 grit sandpaper laid on a perfectly flat

surface.

The last thing to do is mount the dial indicator upside down so the
indicator tip is facing up.
To use, lower the planer table at least six inched below the
cutterhead. Set the indicator directly below the lowest arc of the
cutterhead then raise till you make contact with the cutterhead (not
the knives). By moving the dial indicator forward and back you will
find the absolute lowest point of the arc. Move the indicator from

one

side of the planer bed to the other and determine the lowest point of
the arc.
Using John's instructions adjust the table accordingly until both

sides

are within one .001" of an inch. It's not difficult just a little

time

consuming.
You can then use the same procedure to adjust the infeed and outfeed
rollers using their respective adjustments. If these instructions are
not clear enough please let me know.
Sorry but I do not have a camera to show you the completed jig.


Here is John's description:

When adjusting the planer table all measurements are taken from the
lowest
arc of the cutterhead. You would place your indicator beneath the
cutterhead
pointing up move the cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of its
diameter. Now check both sides of the planer table to see it the table
is
level to the cutterhead.

If it needs adjustment this will need to be done first.
To adjust the table, you will find there are four inverted bolts under
the
table surrounding the column. Between the column flange and table

there

are
four hollow bolts, the inverted bolts pass through these. By loosening
the
inverted bolts then adjusting the hollow bolts slightly the table can

be

corrected. Warning! don' adjust more than one bolt set at a time. A
correction of .005" may require the slight adjustment of just one set.
Make
your adjustment, then measure, then adjust again if needed.

You would place your indicator beneath the cutterhead pointing up move
the
cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of the knives. Move the
cutterhead
back and forth until you can measure the lowest point of any knife.

Once the lowest point is found then don't move your gauge, just rotate
the
outer dial to align the zero with the needle. This is now the zero

point

reference. All future measurements will refer to this setting. So it

is

very important to take you time and measure it carefully.

Now that the zero point is established we move on to the corresponding
height of the infeed and out feed rollers.

The feed rollers should be lowered to a position lower than the finial
set
position. To do this, turn the adjusting bolts clockwise, on both

sides,

which will lower the roller before you begin to work toward the finial
set up.
The jam nuts that you found to be loose before you started should be
tightened to a snug condition. Once this is done the action of turning
the
adjustment bolts counterclockwise will keep the lock nut tight and
allow the
rollers to be adjusted while everything is under tension. When working
on a
FELDER "under tension" is the operative term.

The infeed roller should hang between .015 " to .020" below the arc of
the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc

of

the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge. (However,

check

your
gauge so that your are familiar with which way to read it.)

The outfeed roller should hang between .020 " to .025" below the arc

of

the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc

of

the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge.

This should get you very close and allow you machine to function
properly.

Good luck,


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:

rt

=175

I have had a little problem with the planer in that when thickness

planing a 6-7 inch wide board it runs smoothly until the last 4-5
inches and then hesitates or stops until I assist it by pulling it

out.

I spoke to John Hartshorne today and he recommended cleaning the table
very well which I did and then to try lowering the outfeed roller a
little at a time. I did this to the point where the shaft of the
roller is almost touching the housing so I"m not sure I can lower it
much more. It has helped but not solved the problem. I am still in

the

process of adjusting. Has anyone else had a similar problem and a
solution. I will call John back next week but alas the weekend is

here.

Dear Paul,

There is a catch 22 when adjusting Rollers. If the roller is not about
.015-.020 below the arc of the knife then the wood won't feed. If the
roller is to low am the peice of wood contacts the roller at or upove
the tangent of the roller diameter the the wood won't feed. If the
spring pressure is to tight the downward presure will also cause enough
interference to prevent smooth feeding.
Don't be afraid to call me when your working on it.
Thanks,
JH



"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=175

I have had a little problem with the planer in that when thickness

planing a 6-7 inch wide board it runs smoothly until the last 4-5
inches and then hesitates or stops until I assist it by pulling it out.
I spoke to John Hartshorne today and he recommended cleaning the table
very well which I did and then to try lowering the outfeed roller a
little at a time. I did this to the point where the shaft of the
roller is almost touching the housing so I"m not sure I can lower it
much more. It has helped but not solved the problem. I am still in the
process of adjusting. Has anyone else had a similar problem and a
solution. I will call John back next week but alas the weekend is here.

Good morning Paul,
I too have experience what you have described. I found that the planer
table was not adjusted exactly parallel with the cutter head. May I
suggest you use a dial indicator (one that shows in .001" graduations
is best) mounted in a holding stand to ensure your planer bed is
parallel to the cutter head. Once the planner bed is parallel you then
adjust the infeed and outfeed rollers to be parallel with the planer
bed. Attached is an e-mail that John Hartshorne sent me giving
directions and the necessary tolerances you will want to use.

Here are the instructions for the holding jig I built for my 2"
diameter dial indicator:

The stand looks like box, which has had the front, and bottom cut out.
I made the sides and a back with 1/4" material (massonite is a good and
stable material that can be used but shop scrapes work just as well)
and the top is 3/4". The completed outside dimensions are 4-1/2" tall,
3-1/2" wide and 3" deep. The bottom of the sides look like an upside
down U with each leg portion that touches the table being a 1/4" x 1/4".
To accomplish this I started with a board that was 9-1/8" long by
2-3/4" wide. Using the diagonal corners I found the center of the
board and marked it. I then drilled a hole with a 2-1/4" forstner bit.
If you don't have a drill bit this large you could use a bandsaw or
coping saw. I then cut the board in half (4-1/2" x 2-3/4") through the
middle of the hole. Next I cut the top 3" x 2-3/4", I then drilled a
hole through the center of top that corresponds to the diameter of the
holding post of the dial indicator. To hold the dial indicator in
place I drilled a hole through the front edge of the board and tapped a
thumbscrew so it would make contact with the holding post (don't over
tighten when in use). I assembled the top and sides together. Make
sure you have a very flat surface and that everything is square when
doing this. Next attach the back (4-1/4" x 3-1/2"), you will want to
leave a 1/4" gap at the bottom so that it does not make contact with
the planer table. Once the assembly is dry you should sand the legs
exactly flat using 320 grit sandpaper laid on a perfectly flat surface.
The last thing to do is mount the dial indicator upside down so the
indicator tip is facing up.
To use, lower the planer table at least six inched below the
cutterhead. Set the indicator directly below the lowest arc of the
cutterhead then raise till you make contact with the cutterhead (not
the knives). By moving the dial indicator forward and back you will
find the absolute lowest point of the arc. Move the indicator from one
side of the planer bed to the other and determine the lowest point of
the arc.
Using John's instructions adjust the table accordingly until both sides
are within one .001" of an inch. It's not difficult just a little time
consuming.
You can then use the same procedure to adjust the infeed and outfeed
rollers using their respective adjustments. If these instructions are
not clear enough please let me know.
Sorry but I do not have a camera to show you the completed jig.


Here is John's description:

When adjusting the planer table all measurements are taken from the
lowest
arc of the cutterhead. You would place your indicator beneath the
cutterhead
pointing up move the cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of its
diameter. Now check both sides of the planer table to see it the table
is
level to the cutterhead.

If it needs adjustment this will need to be done first.
To adjust the table, you will find there are four inverted bolts under
the
table surrounding the column. Between the column flange and table there
are
four hollow bolts, the inverted bolts pass through these. By loosening
the
inverted bolts then adjusting the hollow bolts slightly the table can be
corrected. Warning! don' adjust more than one bolt set at a time. A
correction of .005" may require the slight adjustment of just one set.
Make
your adjustment, then measure, then adjust again if needed.

You would place your indicator beneath the cutterhead pointing up move
the
cutterhead until you find the bottom arc of the knives. Move the
cutterhead
back and forth until you can measure the lowest point of any knife.

Once the lowest point is found then don't move your gauge, just rotate
the
outer dial to align the zero with the needle. This is now the zero point
reference. All future measurements will refer to this setting. So it is
very important to take you time and measure it carefully.

Now that the zero point is established we move on to the corresponding
height of the infeed and out feed rollers.

The feed rollers should be lowered to a position lower than the finial
set
position. To do this, turn the adjusting bolts clockwise, on both sides,
which will lower the roller before you begin to work toward the finial
set up.
The jam nuts that you found to be loose before you started should be
tightened to a snug condition. Once this is done the action of turning
the
adjustment bolts counterclockwise will keep the lock nut tight and
allow the
rollers to be adjusted while everything is under tension. When working
on a
FELDER "under tension" is the operative term.

The infeed roller should hang between .015 " to .020" below the arc of
the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc of
the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge. (However, check
your
gauge so that your are familiar with which way to read it.)

The outfeed roller should hang between .020 " to .025" below the arc of
the
knife. You will measure this the same way that you measured the arc of
the
knife. Remember don't move the zero point on the gauge.

This should get you very close and allow you machine to function
properly.

Good luck,


"paul schumacher" <pdsch-@...> wrote:
original article:
=175

I have had a little problem with the planer in that when thickness

planing a 6-7 inch wide board it runs smoothly until the last 4-5
inches and then hesitates or stops until I assist it by pulling it out.
I spoke to John Hartshorne today and he recommended cleaning the table
very well which I did and then to try lowering the outfeed roller a
little at a time. I did this to the point where the shaft of the
roller is almost touching the housing so I"m not sure I can lower it
much more. It has helped but not solved the problem. I am still in the
process of adjusting. Has anyone else had a similar problem and a
solution. I will call John back next week but alas the weekend is here.

开云体育

开云体育

开云体育

I want to thank you all for your posts on Felder vs. Robland X31
issues. I guess you can put me on the list of looking to get a Felder
as a replacement to the X31. Now I need to decide if I should go new,
or used. A new one would be nice, but I will keep my options open for
now. Anybody know of used 6 and 7 series machines available? I could go
4 or 5 group combo or table saw/shaper and joiner/planner units. Since
Felder hasn't mentioned the "new" 700 series, does anybody know what
changes or differences there are with the old models? Thanks again for
you insight. Dennis L. Jacob

Dear Rod,
Glad you found our group, I think you will enjoy the other members.
How are you commimg with your planer adjustment? I tried to call the
other night. I must have missed you. Feel free to call me if you need
to. If I'm not in the office ask them to connect you to my cell phone.
Thanks,
John





"r. barton" <r_barto-@...> wrote:
original article:
=168

Not quite sure if this response will work or not as this is my first
time in a chat room.

I appreciate your response. In regard to your question and

suggestion.

The first name is Rod and I support your idea about getting together
for a BBQ.
You most likely passed my house as you headed into Orting, I'm located
just off highway 161 about two miles north of Orting. You mentioned
that there are two other Felder owners in the area and although I have
not heard from them to date, I hope to in the near future.
Have not had a chance to check the vault as of yet but will be doing

so

shortly. Look forward to seeing your shop pictures in addition the
other postings. Always nice to see how others set up their workspace
as there is always something new that I have never thought of doing.
When my wife and I decided to move to the Orting valley it was not
without some regret as I had just finished build a 1,000 sq. ft. shop
which I had to leave behind. I now occupy a 200 sq. ft. garage

space.

Oh well, had to keep my wife happy and I did end up with a Felder
machine after all was said and done!
Although off the subject of Felder, I suspect that there may be a wood
turner or two out there as well. I am a member of the South Puget
Sound Chapter of the American Association of Woodturners.


"geoff shepherd" <geof-@...> wrote:
original article:

rt

=165

Welcome to the group! I'm in Everett and was out your way on

business

a few

years ago (in Orting, actually). Now there are at least four of us

from this

area on the felder-woodworking forum... maybe we should have a BBQ
get-together this summer.

I also have a used BF6-31... a 1997 model. My experience with Felder

USA is

similar - I think they intend to make lifetime customers out of us

(isn't

that sneaky of them). I feel like I bought a green Mercedes that

makes

sawdust instead of burning rubber. Pretty slick.

If you don't mind, what is your first name? I only see your first

initial...

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: R. Barton <r_barton@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Hello

Just logged on to this site and read with great interest all the
comments to Geoff's question. I was glad to hear (or rather read)

that

I have in fact made the right decision in purchasing a Felder BF

6-31.

(snip)

Just one more thought on this topic. With my X-31 I always had to
wonder if it was going to be accurate when I walked into the shop in
the morning and if it was going to stay accurate during use. With
Felder this concern is gone.

For the past two weeks, as a new member, I have read your comments
about the Robland X31. While I agree with most all that has been
written, I have not seen much written about the Knapp machine. They
also have a 12" and 16" "kombi". I would welcome any input on the
comparison between their CK-410, and the BF-741F.

Hi,

Since there has been some discussion about where members live, I would
suggest that we fill out our profiles. You do not have to include
personal information, but a city/state would be great. To edit your
profile, go to the members page, then click on your name, you will be
able to enter information. It would be nice to know who lives nearby,
possibly to meet some of you in person. --Scott

Not quite sure if this response will work or not as this is my first
time in a chat room.

I appreciate your response. In regard to your question and suggestion.
The first name is Rod and I support your idea about getting together
for a BBQ.
You most likely passed my house as you headed into Orting, I'm located
just off highway 161 about two miles north of Orting. You mentioned
that there are two other Felder owners in the area and although I have
not heard from them to date, I hope to in the near future.
Have not had a chance to check the vault as of yet but will be doing so
shortly. Look forward to seeing your shop pictures in addition the
other postings. Always nice to see how others set up their workspace
as there is always something new that I have never thought of doing.
When my wife and I decided to move to the Orting valley it was not
without some regret as I had just finished build a 1,000 sq. ft. shop
which I had to leave behind. I now occupy a 200 sq. ft. garage space.
Oh well, had to keep my wife happy and I did end up with a Felder
machine after all was said and done!
Although off the subject of Felder, I suspect that there may be a wood
turner or two out there as well. I am a member of the South Puget
Sound Chapter of the American Association of Woodturners.


"geoff shepherd" <geof-@...> wrote:
original article:
=165

Welcome to the group! I'm in Everett and was out your way on business

a few

years ago (in Orting, actually). Now there are at least four of us

from this

area on the felder-woodworking forum... maybe we should have a BBQ
get-together this summer.

I also have a used BF6-31... a 1997 model. My experience with Felder

USA is

similar - I think they intend to make lifetime customers out of us

(isn't

that sneaky of them). I feel like I bought a green Mercedes that makes
sawdust instead of burning rubber. Pretty slick.

If you don't mind, what is your first name? I only see your first

initial...

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: R. Barton <r_barton@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Hello

Just logged on to this site and read with great interest all the
comments to Geoff's question. I was glad to hear (or rather read)

that

I have in fact made the right decision in purchasing a Felder BF

6-31.

(snip)

For those who are interested, I was able to find well machined bushings
for using 1-1/4" tooling on a 30mm spindle. Amana's catalog No. BU-566
is just such a bushing. This was not easy to find since the required
wall thickness for this spindle adaptation is a fraction of a
millimeter. Total cost for two bushings was $20.00.

Hi all,

This has nothing to do with woodworking, but I have often heard the
comparison of Felder to BMW. Today I went to the Ultimate Driving
Experience, at Hollywood Park (near Los Angeles). It was a 2 hour
driving school with the new BMW SUV X5, it was free and lots of fun.
There were professional drivers teaching you how to drive a car like
you would not believe. You get to drive the car at its limits, learning
quite a bit. It was one of the most exciting things I have done in a
long time.

The program tours the country, check out www.bmwusa.com - go to events
then to the Ultimate Driving Experience.

I know that it will be in San Francisco next month. It will also be in
Dallas & Miami. You do not have to own a BMW to take part in it. If you
have the time and like to drive, check it out. -- Scott