ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
esc to dismiss
Re: Ladder Diagram for KF700S
Hi Michael,
I have heard of these current limiting devices but have no personal experience. It may be a simpler solution.
| |
We never learned ladder logic in ELectrical Engineering, so can’t help you there but if you share the machine wiring diagram. I can annotate it with how the machine powers up and powers down.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 30, 2025, at 4:07?PM, Michael Garrison Stuber via groups.io <mtgstuber@...> wrote:
?
Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)
Re: Totally unrelated question
Thank you Brian and Mac!
?
Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!
|
Found concrete densifiers.? Densifiers seem to be different than sealers? Dave Davies
Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
|
Ladder Diagram for KF700S
Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)
|
When you guys say "seal", what is the material?? I'm picturing Costco.? Is that what you are describing?
|
Re: Totally unrelated question
| |
Mariusz,
This is one style I’ve used numerous times also just a butt line with a steel profile the z shadow you might say it’s more forgiving.
By the way just started using the 30 mm spindle for the Gomad again thank you.
Best mac,,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 30, 2025, at 6:11?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
?
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
OK, I uploaded another version that's .25mm thicker, it's called the Felder spinter block 37mm wide.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:25:09 AM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Measure your stop blocks, mine are 37mm wide off the fence and my printed part came out about 36.75mm, so I'll add the .25mm to the model and repost the stl file. Better to be slightly wider and sand it down rather than too narrow.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:19:25 AM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian! I will give it a whirl and report back on it.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Totally unrelated question
This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
|
Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
Measure your stop blocks, mine are 37mm wide off the fence and my printed part came out about 36.75mm, so I'll add the .25mm to the model and repost the stl file. Better to be slightly wider and sand it down rather than too narrow.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:19:25 AM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian! I will give it a whirl and report back on it.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Totally unrelated question
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
|
David,
Another idea for concrete floors. ?I’ve seen it done many times and looks great.?
Honed concrete is?a smooth, matte concrete finish achieved by grinding the surface, often followed by sealing, and is known for its durability, low maintenance, and slip resistance, making it suitable for both indoor and outdoor applications.?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 29, 2025, at 9:22?PM, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote:
?
Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
?
?
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
Thanks Brian! I will give it a whirl and report back on it.
Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Totally unrelated question
Hi Mariusz,
I usually finish such a drywall edge with a j-bead and then mount?the?plywood next to?the already finished edge. No way (and no?point really) of hiding a joint between two such vastly different materials.?
As for your second question, it depends on many factors - what thickness?ply, what is the surface area of your ply, what is your ceiling framework (metal stud, wood stud, concrete slab), etc.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
|
Totally unrelated question
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
|
Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
?
?
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Adding Remote Control Switches on Felder
Thank you Imran. Let me know if there's anything I can provide.
Hi Kevin, et al,
Most likely it will work but the writeup will need to be updated for Hammer. I am happy to do that if someone provides pictures and needed details.
The main difference is that the switches in your machine receive line AC voltage. The current version of the receiver I used, only states output relay capability as 10A @ 14VDC. I know most of these relays can handle AC and DC voltages, as shown in pic below.
There are many available on Amazon but I prefer to buy from an established business. I have a message out to them to confirm relay capability. I will keep all posted. ? I made a folder in the Photos tab titled Hammer K3 Winner Schematic/Wiring diagram. I will also attach a .jpg here.
<20250328_121302.jpg>
|
Re: Adding Remote Control Switches on Felder
Hi Kevin, et al,
Most likely it will work but the writeup will need to be updated for Hammer. I am happy to do that if someone provides pictures and needed details.
The main difference is that the switches in your machine receive line AC voltage. The current version of the receiver I used, only states output relay capability as 10A @ 14VDC. I know most of these relays can handle AC and DC voltages, as shown in pic below.
There are many available on Amazon but I prefer to buy from an established business. I have a message out to them to confirm relay capability. I will keep all posted.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 28, 2025, at 3:42?PM, Kevin Wells via groups.io <kjwells54@...> wrote: ? I made a folder in the Photos tab titled Hammer K3 Winner Schematic/Wiring diagram. I will also attach a .jpg here.
<20250328_121302.jpg>
|
File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded
#file-notice
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
Description:
Splinter block for Pre-X-Roll 700 series machines
|
Re: 3D printer file for KF700 crosscut fence block
I guess it would have been easier for me to include the link.... duh!
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, March 29, 2025 at 09:32:27 AM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Hi Jason,
Sorry it took so long, had to find mine and then blue print it and make the stl file. I did not test print it, and depending on how accurate your 3D print is, you might have to make adjustments for the proper thickness front to back so it matches the stops. I tried to email the stl file, too big. So I'll see if I can load it onto the files portion of the FOG.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Thursday, March 27, 2025 at 06:15:02 PM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Has anyone made a file for this doohickey? 2001 vintage KF700.
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
imran
Jonathan Smith
Jason Holtz
Kevin Wells
