I don't have a wiring diagram, but it's going to be one of the black boxes on the lower right in your picture. I would contact Felder or examine your wiring chart to determine which is which.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, January 29, 2025 at 08:12:31 AM MST, Morgan Skinner <morgan@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thanks for the very prompt reply. Could you help me to identify which part the relay is?
Thanks again for your assistance, it¡¯s very much appreciated.
Regards,
Morgan
On 29 Jan 2025, at 14:46, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
The start/stop buttons are all low voltage that engage or disengage a relay inside the machine to power it on/off. I suspect your relay has burned contacts and is sticking shut. Replace that and it should solve your problems.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, January 29, 2025 at 07:42:07 AM MST, Morgan Skinner <morgan@...> wrote:
Hello folks, I¡¯m new here having just purchased a couple of second hand Hammer machines, a B3 Perform and an N4400.
Overall I am delighted with both machines, however the B3 has an odd (and very unsafe) quirk in that sometimes it won¡¯t switch off, using any of the ¡°off¡± switches (there are three in all on this model).
I leave the machine unplugged unless I¡¯m using it, and unplugging does NOT necessarily reset it back to a normal condition - if I plug it in again, some times it will start immediately.
As far as I can tell there have been no alterations to the wiring of the machine, and a lot of the time it works just as expected, however sometimes it goes rogue.
The only thing I can think is that (maybe!) the ¡°on¡± switch contact(s) are somehow ¡°locked¡± together in the ¡°on¡± position inside the switch, and thus override any of the ¡°off¡± switches. Just to be clear, once the saw is in this ¡°I¡¯m staying on
whatever you do¡± mode, I cannot switch it off using the off button next to the on switch, the emergency off button at the side of the saw, or the emergency off button at the rear of the saw. Both of the latter are of the ¡°push to stop, rotate and pull to re-enable¡±
variety.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated - as it stands the saw is a bit on the deadly side.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.
Regards, Morgan
|
Brian,
Thanks for the very prompt reply. Could you help me to identify which part the relay is?
Thanks again for your assistance, it¡¯s very much appreciated.
Regards,
Morgan
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Show quoted text
On 29 Jan 2025, at 14:46, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
The start/stop buttons are all low voltage that engage or disengage a relay inside the machine to power it on/off. I suspect your relay has burned contacts and is sticking shut. Replace that and it should solve your problems.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, January 29, 2025 at 07:42:07 AM MST, Morgan Skinner <morgan@...> wrote:
Hello folks, I¡¯m new here having just purchased a couple of second hand Hammer machines, a B3 Perform and an N4400.
Overall I am delighted with both machines, however the B3 has an odd (and very unsafe) quirk in that sometimes it won¡¯t switch off, using any of the ¡°off¡± switches (there are three in all on this model).
I leave the machine unplugged unless I¡¯m using it, and unplugging does NOT necessarily reset it back to a normal condition - if I plug it in again, some times it will start immediately.
As far as I can tell there have been no alterations to the wiring of the machine, and a lot of the time it works just as expected, however sometimes it goes rogue.
The only thing I can think is that (maybe!) the ¡°on¡± switch contact(s) are somehow ¡°locked¡± together in the ¡°on¡± position inside the switch, and thus override any of the ¡°off¡± switches. Just to be clear, once the saw is in this ¡°I¡¯m staying on
whatever you do¡± mode, I cannot switch it off using the off button next to the on switch, the emergency off button at the side of the saw, or the emergency off button at the rear of the saw. Both of the latter are of the ¡°push to stop, rotate and pull to re-enable¡±
variety.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated - as it stands the saw is a bit on the deadly side.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.
Regards, Morgan
|
The start/stop buttons are all low voltage that engage or disengage a relay inside the machine to power it on/off. I suspect your relay has burned contacts and is sticking shut. Replace that and it should solve your problems.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, January 29, 2025 at 07:42:07 AM MST, Morgan Skinner <morgan@...> wrote:
Hello folks, I¡¯m new here having just purchased a couple of second hand Hammer machines, a B3 Perform and an N4400.
Overall I am delighted with both machines, however the B3 has an odd (and very unsafe) quirk in that sometimes it won¡¯t switch off, using any of the ¡°off¡± switches (there are three in all on this model).
I leave the machine unplugged unless I¡¯m using it, and unplugging does NOT necessarily reset it back to a normal condition - if I plug it in again, some times it will start immediately.
As far as I can tell there have been no alterations to the wiring of the machine, and a lot of the time it works just as expected, however sometimes it goes rogue.
The only thing I can think is that (maybe!) the ¡°on¡± switch contact(s) are somehow ¡°locked¡± together in the ¡°on¡± position inside the switch, and thus override any of the ¡°off¡± switches. Just to be clear, once the saw is in this ¡°I¡¯m staying on whatever you do¡± mode, I cannot switch it off using the off button next to the on switch, the emergency off button at the side of the saw, or the emergency off button at the rear of the saw. Both of the latter are of the ¡°push to stop, rotate and pull to re-enable¡± variety.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated - as it stands the saw is a bit on the deadly side.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.
Regards, Morgan
|
Hello folks, I¡¯m new here having just purchased a couple of second hand Hammer machines, a B3 Perform and an N4400.
Overall I am delighted with both machines, however the B3 has an odd (and very unsafe) quirk in that sometimes it won¡¯t switch off, using any of the ¡°off¡± switches (there are three in all on this model).
I leave the machine unplugged unless I¡¯m using it, and unplugging does NOT necessarily reset it back to a normal condition - if I plug it in again, some times it will start immediately.
As far as I can tell there have been no alterations to the wiring of the machine, and a lot of the time it works just as expected, however sometimes it goes rogue.
The only thing I can think is that (maybe!) the ¡°on¡± switch contact(s) are somehow ¡°locked¡± together in the ¡°on¡± position inside the switch, and thus override any of the ¡°off¡± switches. Just to be clear, once the saw is in this ¡°I¡¯m staying on whatever you do¡± mode, I cannot switch it off using the off button next to the on switch, the emergency off button at the side of the saw, or the emergency off button at the rear of the saw. Both of the latter are of the ¡°push to stop, rotate and pull to re-enable¡± variety.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated - as it stands the saw is a bit on the deadly side.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.
Regards, Morgan
|
Have an A3-31 and recently started to develop snipe on the jointer.? It appears the near side (closest to operator) of the outfeed table is not co-planer.? Also, started to develop snipe at the front and trail ends of the planer.? i spent countless hours trying to fix the planer but even after help of Hammer (instructions only) I'm still getting the snipe.? I am getting distinguishable planer roller marks on the board which maybe means I have the rollers too tight?? Any advice help plz.? ?
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Re: Blade to Fence Capacity on BF6-41 w/retrofit fence
Thanks for your reply. I'll get back with some pictures.
?
Louis
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
Hi John:
?
This is excellent news! I¡¯m really looking forward to your impressions as you use the machine, including the really good features and the not so good features. I¡¯m excited for you.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
To follow-up on this thread, Felder did replace the brake board a week ago. So far that has fixed my issue. It was not a voltage problem, or a blade problem, but was a defective electronic part.
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Rod, Thank you for that! Help me understand what is included in ¡°annual maintenance,¡± and does Felder offer a maintenance manual? I do have an excellent dust collection system, but other than some cleaning out of the machine, I have not done any annual maintenance as you suggest. So I¡¯m wondering if I¡¯m due for a check up.
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On Jan 28, 2025, at 3:30?PM, rodsheridan via groups.io <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
? Hi Christopher, I've owned one for 17 years without issue and serviced many of the A3 machines.? I've run into that problem twice from people who forget to run dust collection, or forget to do annual maintenance.
?
Enjoy your C3............Regards, Rod.
|
Hi Christopher, I've owned one for 17 years without issue and serviced many of the A3 machines.? I've run into that problem twice from people who forget to run dust collection, or forget to do annual maintenance.
?
Enjoy your C3............Regards, Rod.
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I have a C3-31 and now I¡¯m worried. Any thoughts from all of our experts on why or how this may have happened in the first place? - poor design? - poor manufacturing? - lack of maintenance? Any thoughts would be helpful I think. BTW - nice job fixing it!? Chris Rozycki?
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On Jan 28, 2025, at 2:23?PM, cms.sanderson via groups.io <cms.sanderson@...> wrote:
? Thanks guys, I bit the bullet and took the assembly unit out only to find the threaded rod plastic block (item 7) was blocked with loads of sawdust. When I started the job I noticed this plastic cover had become dislodged which I highly suspect caused the issue by allowing dust to enter.
?
?
?
For anyone needing to tackle this in the future I was able to take out the assembly unit in about 2hrs with limited machine maintenance experience and no special tools. No need to remove the tables or pull the pulley off the cutterhead. Rather than realigning the tables after reinstalling I realised I could align the cutterhead to the previously calibrated tables by tightening two bolts on each of the bearing blocks, checking knife clearance with the outfeed table and then tapping each block a fraction until the clearance was perfect on both sides.
|
Thanks guys, I bit the bullet and took the assembly unit out only to find the threaded rod plastic block (item 7) was blocked with loads of sawdust. When I started the job I noticed this plastic cover had become dislodged which I highly suspect caused the issue by allowing dust to enter.
?
?
?
For anyone needing to tackle this in the future I was able to take out the assembly unit in about 2hrs with limited machine maintenance experience and no special tools. No need to remove the tables or pull the pulley off the cutterhead. Rather than realigning the tables after reinstalling I realised I could align the cutterhead to the previously calibrated tables by tightening two bolts on each of the bearing blocks, checking knife clearance with the outfeed table and then tapping each block a fraction until the clearance was perfect on both sides.
|
Re: Blade to Fence Capacity on BF6-41 w/retrofit fence
Hi Louis,
Please sign your post so we know who we are addressing. I assume you are Louis from your email.
I am responding out of courtesy since no one has responded. I think this is likely because you have modified your machine and you probably know it best. Some have reduced the length of the fence rod on their Felder for various reasons with no issues that I am aware of.
Since you have modified the machine, it may be best to share some pictures of the relevant areas of your machine so the experts may be able to share thoughts on the possible unintentional consequences, if any.
Hope this helps,
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On Jan 28, 2025, at 9:51?AM, Mathelo via groups.io <louis@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
Hi Jim, I just bend the 4" polyurethane hose with 2 pairs of Lineman's pliers into a rectangular end rather than round.
?
Regards, Rod.
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Hi Chris, the feed rollers are located in plastic blocks with a threaded rod, item 7 in the drawing.
?
They can break, or get jammed in the cutter bearing housing item #30.
?
I would start there.
?
Regards, Rod.
?
?
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Re: Blade to Fence Capacity on BF6-41 w/retrofit fence
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Re: Adjusting Phase Perfect?
To follow-up on this thread, Felder did replace the brake board a week ago. So far that has fixed my issue. It was not a voltage problem, or a blade problem, but was a defective electronic part.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
Chris, if this was my machine the level of doubt I would have on using it would always eat away at me.
Given that I would suggest checking its seated correctly, and then adjusting from the zero tension position. Its been a minute since I sold my A3-31, but I recall it being relativley straight forward with a set of 1-2-3 blocks.
?
-Karl
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Re: Levelling Feet/Bolts or blocking locations Locations - CF 741 S
Whilst I havent levled a CF741 specifically, the location in the chassis for installing leveling feet is usually right next to where the shipping brackets woul have been installed. I've been happy with the McMaster "Glass Filled Nylon" swivel leveling feet ()
I went M10, but I found on my AD941 some of the holes were bored much larger, so make sure to get some decent thickness fender washers if the holes arent as consistent.
-Karl
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In the process of calibrating a used A3-31 and stumbled upon an issue with the planer feed roller. The right side is too high and for some reason doesn't rest on the support bolt (see the gap in the photo). The spring feels fine so wondering if it's not seated properly. Presumably the only way to access the top of the adjustment screw/spring is to take the the entire cutterhead/feed roller unit out?
?
Right side that has the issue
 | Left side is fine  Extent of the alignment issue :(  Chris
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Levelling Feet/Bolts or blocking locations Locations - CF 741 S
Hi There,
?
I have being looking thorough the manual (User Manual and Schematics) for where the levelling bolts are located on the machine. I am having a challenge to set the beds coplanar and also level, and after some adjustments they appear to be falling out of position again after some time.
?
I have noticed this when I had to make some adjustments on the slider to fix a toe out issue (another recent topic) and found that maybe one of the levelling bolts is missing. Might this be a position of an optional mobility device??.
?
I am not sure if I just need to block it up or use the bolts, or both, but it does concern me a little that there is only one bolt on the floor on the planer side, under the on-off switch. I have a feeling that its best to position block under the 6 corners (4 under the Saw spindle frame and 2 under the planer outside frame. A technician once told me never move the machine unless? the Planer table was raised so all the heavy load rests on the main Spindle/Saw table frame, which makes sense that no blots are located under the planer side except of one to keep it from going into twist against the main frame.?
?
Any ideas from others who may have found this would be helpful.
?
Many Thanks
?
Colum
CF741, AD 741, K700S, FB 710/510, RL 160 and 2x AF22.
?
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David Luckensmeyer
rodsheridan
imran
Colum