On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 05:44 AM, Andy wrote:
Damn. Nice tractor.?
Here's how the Plan progressed, Plan 51 going into the shop-
?
?
?
All went well.
?
?
Never mind the jointer, check out that tractor!!
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
?
Yeah, and it's something I actually use... a lot!
?
Bon
|
"Nice tractor, and easy access to the shop. I am almost envious.
?
I had to pay $1,475 for a rigger to move my saw, and then another $625 to repair my lawn after the rigger drove over it. ??
--
John Hinman"
?
Ouch...
?
Bon
|
Free Saw-Stop table saw offered in San Francisco Bay Area.
Hello fellow woody's. ?I received an email from a mom who lost her son and wants to give his Saw-stop table saw away to a passionate woodworker. ?Im in Napa Ca. so they must be nearby, so any of you in the vicinity interested in this please DM me and I'll connect you to her.
Cheers!
?
|
Nice tractor, and easy access to the shop. I am almost envious.
?
I had to pay $1,475 for a rigger to move my saw, and then another $625 to repair my lawn after the rigger drove over it. ??
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
It's nice to have a tractor to move stuff with.? ?OH, and nice new Plan 51.
|
On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 05:44 AM, Andy wrote:
Damn. Nice tractor.?
Here's how the Plan progressed, Plan 51 going into the shop-
?
All went well.
?
?
Never mind the jointer, check out that tractor!!
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
|
Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
?Here is an update:
Per Grex I did a test in hard maple with pressure set to 90 and 95 PSI and did nailing with gun in parallel and perpendicular orientations. Red indicates pins are proud of wood surface.
It is easy to see the impression of driver hitting the wood in ¡°good¡± cases whereas I don¡¯t see that evidence in cases where the nails sit proud. Here is a zoomed portion that shows the rectangular driver head hitting the wood in both orientations.
From the test results in the top picture it appears that I am good with 90 PSI but one can see that there is still no driver impression in the wood surface. So to verify I did a few more firings and the nails sat proud (pic below). There is no evidence of driver reaching the wood.
Grex says that I will have to increase pressure in such cases and based upon my short test results I would have to agree.
Grex also shared that there are large body models which have higher driving power. I am leaning towards the 2 P650 models but they are slightly bigger and heavier.
I did try the bevel recommended by Mike Blake and it possibly helped as I did not have an issue until 1¡± length. The driver barely protrudes the nose and has a very short straight sided portion at the tip.
I hope it helps others and suggestions are welcome.
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Show quoted text
On Jan 2, 2025, at 3:07?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Thanks Natanel, I called them today and they said that 90 to 95 PSI should do it. He did say that the hardest of woods could require 110PSI.
Asked me to check a few things which I will do on Monday, when I am back home.
On Jan 2, 2025, at 2:52?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
? One more thing, I checked the manual
It says not to exceed 120PSI, and that the operational pressure should be around 70-100PSI.
It is strange you need such a high pressure for 5/8" nails
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Colum,
¡°We are going to look at the toe out issue¡±
I don¡¯t want to tell you what to do but I suggest you follow the investigation logically and from least to most invasive.
You have not shared what you have done so far.?Maybe, you have checked the blade markings and determined that toe out is indeed the case. However, if the riving knife is misadjusted the marking may, erroneously, look like toe out issue. So I would at least eliminate the riving knife as a possible contributor.
Again, if you share a picture that would be very helpful.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2025, at 1:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote: ?
Thanks to everyone how has contributed. We are going to look at the toe out issue and see if we can nudge the slider as Daid mentions in his Survival Publication...Wish us luck !.
On the machine v hand tool, I too am keen to use hand tools as much as possible, but in fine furniture i try and exhaust the Felder Equipment to its limits as much as possible before we make use on my Lie Nelson Hand Planes!.
Will let you know what is the outcome shortly, but thanks again for the solid info.
Br
Colum
Coloum?I have 2 blades that do exactly?as you described, doesn't?matter how far up or down the blade is.
I've put it down?to the blade being out of balance.
On Tue, 7 Jan 2025 at 17:27, Christopher Rozycki via
<croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine.
So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.?
Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than
mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
?Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering?
?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to
tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
?
Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n
est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Bon, looks like nice mate to the Northfield facer
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
instagram.com/maccampshure/
Designing and building for 50 years
On Tuesday, January 7, 2025 at 10:25:04 PM CST, Bon May via groups.io <bonmay1@...> wrote:
Here's how the Plan progressed, Plan 51 going into the shop-
?
All went well.
|
Congrats on the Plan 51L!
?
I had a A 951L for a short time, it was a great machine, I imagine the Plan 51L has some nice creature comforts. Looking forward to hearing your experiences working with it, and what kinds of work you plan on performing with it??
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
|
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Thanks to everyone how has contributed. We are going to look at the toe out issue and see if we can nudge the slider as Daid mentions in his Survival Publication...Wish us luck !.
On the machine v hand tool, I too am keen to use hand tools as much as possible, but in fine furniture i try and exhaust the Felder Equipment to its limits as much as possible before we make use on my Lie Nelson Hand Planes!.
Will let you know what is the outcome shortly, but thanks again for the solid info.
Br
Colum
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Coloum?I have 2 blades that do exactly?as you described, doesn't?matter how far up or down the blade is.
I've put it down?to the blade being out of balance.
On Tue, 7 Jan 2025 at 17:27, Christopher Rozycki via
<croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine.
So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.?
Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than
mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
?Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering?
?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin.
Chris Rozycki?
On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to
tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
?
Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n
est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Here's how the Plan progressed, Plan 51 going into the shop-
?
All went well.
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Christopher,
I understand your point of view. A skilled WW can do many tasks faster by hand than on a machine. I am just not there and likely won¡¯t get there in the next 10 to 15 yrs (God willing) I may have left to do WW actively.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:27?AM, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote: ? I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine. So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.? Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering? ?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
On Jan 6, 2025, at 7:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
? Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Coloum?I have 2 blades that do exactly?as you described, doesn't?matter how far up or down the blade is. I've put it down?to the blade being out of balance.
On Tue, 7 Jan 2025 at 17:27, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote: I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine. So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.? Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than mental satisfaction. On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote: ?Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering? ?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood. ? Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: Inset drawer lighting
Just browsed their catalogue and wish I could have installed those in our kitchen but not interested in ripping the house apart again¡
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
I get that totally! I just find it more satisfying to work with the wood rather than fuss with the machine. So a little error off the machine can be quickly resolved with a hand plane or other appropriate tool.? Also, I am not using my machines to generate income, which might make a big difference. Chris Rozycki?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:09?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than mental satisfaction.
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote:
? Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering? ?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
On Jan 6, 2025, at 7:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
? Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
I can glue panels straight from the saw. I have done it for shop items and other non-critical glue-ups. Jointing edges prior to glue up on jointer does give a very nice flat surface but in the end I am not sure if it adds anything more than mental satisfaction.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2025, at 11:03?AM, Christopher Rozycki via groups.io <croz1950@...> wrote: ? Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering? ?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin. Chris Rozycki? On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
On Jan 6, 2025, at 7:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
? Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
|
Re: Cf741s-fine cut blade leaving ripples in Pear.
Sorry to all the machine-heads here, but isn¡¯t this why we use hand planes? Just wondering? ?I never trust an edge straight off the saw¡ any saw. Just sayin. Chris Rozycki?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2025, at 10:48?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? I assume these blades used to cut fine and you have them both sharpened, so my first thought would be to try another blade and see what happens.
Moving on, you are xcutting material clamped to the slider and getting ripples on the endgrain. A picture would be very helpful, so I am assuming that you are not getting blade arc impressions which you could get with improper toe out. This is easy to tell as the arc of leading edge of the blade is opposite to the trailing edge, concave vs convex.
Are you making a trim cut where only the left side of blade is in the wood? If so try to cut where you have couple of inches of cutoff and examine both pieces.
You should check the splitter is adjusted properly. You could also remove it and make a test cut with clamped material. This will eliminate the splitter as a contributor.
I am no expert but I try to remove as many contributors as possible. For grins, I would also change material type or at least try another piece of wood.
On Jan 6, 2025, at 7:09?AM, Colum via groups.io <colum@...> wrote:
? Hi
?
have a resharpened Leitz and Felder 96 tooth ATB blades on the saw and it¡¯s leaving some ripples on the end grain cuts.
?
Arbor is clean, no dust particles between it and blades and blades sound normal to the ear. No describable wobble.
?
its running at 25mm above the bed with good clearance on the blades gullets.
any thoughts suggestions.
?
stock is also clamped so no movement laterally on the slider.
?
many thanks in advance for your replies.
?
colum o Donovan?
dubai and chamonix
?
|
Re: Does anyone know the name of the round feature in this Chinese room partition?
Imran,
Looks like you visited The Bund (#1 tourist attraction) and probably?Ô¥Ô° (chinese temple, popular attraction).
On the famous downtown pedestrian street (Nangjin road) close to The Bund (the famous waterfront area), you will not find any furniture?store or ËÕÐå. Of course, there are lots of big western brands there, but I do not think all the brands are from the west. Yes, the buildings on the west side of the Huang Pu River are west style. The east side are all skyscrapers built after 1990. James
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 9:58?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Hi James,
I don¡¯t doubt it at all. I was just saying that I didn¡¯t see them. In fact, other than the old temple everything I saw was brands from west, in ¡°downtown¡± by the river. I believe the locals wanted us to see the modern part that they are proud to show off. ? Imran,
I am sure you can find pretty much everything in Shanghai, just need to know where to go. A weekend is not enough to explore Shanghai with 24 million population :)
ËÕÐå is from Suzhou, a city 106 KM from Shanghai. High quality ËÕÐå is very expensive. Here on douyin (tiktok in China), you can find lots of wooden partition with ËÕÐå.
James
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 9:36?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I know this is chinese but in Japan one can buy embroidered pieces with traditional designs in various sizes fairly commonly.
I did not see them in China but I was only there for a week for work so only had a weekend to explore Shanghai. ? I'm trying to find just the fabric piece that is in the round opening of this room partition. Anyone know what the feature is called?
?
Regards,
Bill
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Bon May
Kerryj_smith
imran
Tom Gensmer
Colum