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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31

 

I don't really worry about what the spec is, if the tables are coplanar, adjust the outfeed so it just catches a straight edge the same ammount that you prefer across the width of the cutter.

-Karl


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

I wish I’d used my circular saw. Not only because of what happened to my felder but also because of the saw dust generated and the dulling of the blade. ?The Trex particles seem to be everywhere inside my machine.?


Re: Purpose of threaded rod on A3-31 #jointerplaner

 

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Hi Drumboy,

I sent you a private msg but not sure you saw it. You mention two threaded rods. By that, I assume you mean one on each table and it is the one pointed to by the red arrow in the pic below.

image0.jpeg

After studying the exploded diagram, the only function I see is that it is meant to stop the travel of the outfeed so that it maintains a safe minimum distance between the cutterhead and the end of the outfeed table. Green arrow point to the rod that adjusts the height of the table. Knob for that rod is not shown in your picture.

You can see the threaded rods (red arrow) can be adjusted laterally. I am not sure but I assume you are saying that it is too tall and interfering with the table installation. You can lower the height of the threaded rod to avoid the interference. It needs to be tall enough to stop the casting from traveling laterally.

My $0.02 until an owner with actual experience can chime in.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 11, 2025, at 9:50?AM, drumboy122 via groups.io <drumboy122@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi guys,
?
Currently working on a "restoration of a fire damaged C3-31. Everything is going smoothly. Currently putting everything back together but i cannot for the life of me figure out the purpose of these two pieces of threaded rod (+washers and nuts). Is it an "end stop" for the tables or ? In the case of the outfeed table i cannot put the table in the highest possible position because the rod interferes with the table itself (its tapered). Meaning the "final position" of the table is where the end stop hits the table in its upright position and i can calibrate from that point onwards or the rod needs to be used in some other way.
?
Any help would be deeply appreciated ?
<1736597936571797170286287052744.jpg>


Purpose of threaded rod on A3-31 #jointerplaner

 
Edited

Hi guys,
?
Currently working on a "restoration of a fire damaged C3-31. Everything is going smoothly. Currently putting everything back together but i cannot for the life of me figure out the purpose of these two pieces of threaded rod (+washers and nuts). Is it an "end stop" for the tables or ? In the case of the outfeed table i cannot put the table in the highest possible position because the rod interferes with the table itself (its tapered). Meaning the "final position" of the table is where the end stop hits the table in its upright position and i can calibrate from that point onwards or the rod needs to be used in some other way.
?
Any help would be deeply appreciated ?


Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31

 

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This question comes up every 6-12 months. ?The link below will take you to a post from the archive on the topic - there are a lot of other posts as well if you just search the archive:


David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Jan 10, 2025, at 9:29?PM, aaron.gatzke via groups.io <aaron.gatzke@...> wrote:

I have read from two different places regarding the height of the cutter head knife in relation to the outfeed table.
?
One said .001 inch above.
Another said .01 to .04 mm below
?
Any consensus on what it should be?
?
thanks,
Aaron


Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31

 

I have read from two different places regarding the height of the cutter head knife in relation to the outfeed table.
?
One said .001 inch above.
Another said .01 to .04 mm below
?
Any consensus on what it should be?
?
thanks,
Aaron


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

Your saw should cut fine, but it might be rough on a quality blade. I thought that there were specifically sanctioned "Trex blades" from Diablo at Home Depot that are good for circ saws and chop saws. Diablo blades are likely cheaper to replace than?sharpening your K700s blades ... it's probably easier?to save your k700s's blade from sharpening and mount the trex blade in the chop saw.


On Fri, Jan 10, 2025 at 3:14?PM Denno via <dennis=[email protected]> wrote:
Has anyone else successfully cut Trex on their Felder? By chance I am about to start a new project using some leftover Trex decking and I will shy away from it if this could pose a problem for my fairly new K700S.
It's not a huge project by any means and I do have pretty good dust collection.
?
As always, thanks in advance for any advice on this topic.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ



--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

Has anyone else successfully cut Trex on their Felder? By chance I am about to start a new project using some leftover Trex decking and I will shy away from it if this could pose a problem for my fairly new K700S.
It's not a huge project by any means and I do have pretty good dust collection.
?
As always, thanks in advance for any advice on this topic.
?
Dennis
Payson, AZ


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

Sounds like the spindle or motor bearings have seized?? The whining noise could be an indication that the?bearings were dry and continued use and heat build up caused them to seize. The blade should spin freely.? I would start by removing the belt and determine if the motor or blade spindle is difficult to turn.

Kevin

On Thu, Jan 9, 2025 at 9:40?PM Jeff via <=[email protected]> wrote:
I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

The shaper works as well. I’ll follow the steps for retentioning the belt tomorrow and see if that helps get the blade spinning freely.?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

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That is good news. So the issue is limited to saw. You may want to check shaper as well.

I would definitely check the belt to ensure it had not jumped will all the chips you were making and now is making the motor very hard to turn. The smell could be from the burning belt.

Bearings can be replaced. However, I am not sure how much it costs now a days. I had it done fairly economically on a 3 ph 10HP motor, 22 yrs ago.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 11:21?PM, Jeff via groups.io <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:

?
I just tried the planer and it started and ran fine. The bad bearing theory sounds like a possibility. I assume the fix for that is to replace the entire motor?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

I just tried the planer and it started and ran fine. The bad bearing theory sounds like a possibility. I assume the fix for that is to replace the entire motor?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

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Jeff,

You say you run it on single phase but you could still have 3 phase motors that are driven by the VFD. Do you have a schematic of the machine?

Since you have other functions, have you tried running another motor? Bad caps will affect all motors - assuming single phase and so far I have not seen a Felder with anything other than a single set of caps for all motors. If you have a VFD, you could potentially have one motor affected or all depending upon where the issue is.

You should certainly be able to turn the blade by hand. I would check the belt to be sure. Apparently, there is no blockage since the blade spun on start up. Is this correct?

If you are comfortable with opening the electrical cabinet you may do so and see if the VFD or caps are located there. Take some pictures.

You can also take a picture of any of the motor plates. You don’t have to crawl in, just get the phone in there and take a snap.

I assume you have dust collection hooked up. You can certainly vacuum the machine along with the motor to alleviate that concern.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 10:46?PM, Jeff via groups.io <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:

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Thanks for the suggestions. I do have a single phase version plugged into my dryer outlet. Unfortunately I’m not sure how to do any of the things that have been suggested (start capacitor, motor winding, check the VFD). The Felder manuals are not that clear (at least to me).
?
I let it cool for a while and tried to start it again. It got closer to full speed this time but there was a whining noise and I could smell something like a burning smell. When I let go of the start button the saw slowed back and didn’t keep running. I’m still hoping it something simpler like the motor got shreds of the trex in it. The stuff generated a ton of saw dust that where more like long flakes as opposed to real saw dust.?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have a single phase version plugged into my dryer outlet. Unfortunately I’m not sure how to do any of the things that have been suggested (start capacitor, motor winding, check the VFD). The Felder manuals are not that clear (at least to me).
?
I let it cool for a while and tried to start it again. It got closer to full speed this time but there was a whining noise and I could smell something like a burning smell. When I let go of the start button the saw slowed back and didn’t keep running. I’m still hoping it something simpler like the motor got shreds of the trex in it. The stuff generated a ton of saw dust that where more like long flakes as opposed to real saw dust.?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

My first thoughts were the same as Imran and David's. ?A failed start capacitor in a single phase motor or the loss of a single leg of the three phase power would produce the symptoms noted.
?
But, that doesn't seem to explain the difficulty turning the blade by hand when the saw is powered off. ?It should spin freely unless there is a mechanical brake engaged. ?Another possibility is a failed bearing on the motor, or possibly a failed bearing on the arbor shaft. ?He said the belts appeared to be OK, so I would lean be suspicious of the motor bearing first. ?An easy check would be to loosen or remove the drive belt and see if the motor spins easily.
?
Just my two cents. ?Hopefully, it is a simple, inexpensive fix.
?
Alex B.
?

On 01/09/2025 7:16 PM PST James Zhu via groups.io <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
?
?
In my case (FB510), there was a smell, the start capacitor did not pop, but expanded. Ordered a new start capacitor from Felder, did not work. Eventually found out the motor winding was shorted to the motor casing.?
Had to order a new (different) motor with different start and run capacitors from Felder.
?
So I would suggest checking both the start capacitor and motor using a multimeter before ordering anything.

James

On Thu, Jan 9, 2025 at 9:49?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jeff,
?
If it is single phase you lost a start cap. If there is a smell, most likely you will find the can popped with some foam like substance that has come out of it.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:40?PM, Jeff via <=[email protected]> wrote:

I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?

?

?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

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As I recall, a BF631 has 3-phase motors, and the single-phase variety drives those motors with a VFD. ?I could be mistaken, but the behavior sounds like one of the 3 legs has come loose or the VFD is malfunctioning.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Jan 9, 2025, at 6:49?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Hi Jeff,

If it is single phase you lost a start cap. If there is a smell, most likely you will find the can popped with some foam like substance that has come out of it.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:40?PM, Jeff via groups.io <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:

?
I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

In my case (FB510), there was a smell, the start capacitor did not pop, but expanded. Ordered a new start capacitor from Felder, did not work. Eventually found out the motor winding was shorted to the motor casing.?
Had to order a new (different) motor with different start and run capacitors from Felder.

So I would suggest checking both the start capacitor and motor using a multimeter before ordering anything.

James


On Thu, Jan 9, 2025 at 9:49?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jeff,

If it is single phase you lost a start cap. If there is a smell, most likely you will find the can popped with some foam like substance that has come out of it.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:40?PM, Jeff via <=[email protected]> wrote:

?
I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?


Re: Saw hums and won’t start

 

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Hi Jeff,

If it is single phase you lost a start cap. If there is a smell, most likely you will find the can popped with some foam like substance that has come out of it.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Jan 9, 2025, at 9:40?PM, Jeff via groups.io <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:

?
I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?


Saw hums and won’t start

 

I was cutting some trex on my BF 631 today and wearing a face mask so I didn’t smell what might have been rubber burning. I did hear a whine that I thought might be a car alarm so I’d didn’t think anything of it until my saw stalled. I was able to start it again once but it hummed for a long time before slowing spinning up to speed. I turned it off and tried again and now it just spins slowly and hums. I’m thinking maybe a piece of wood is jammed somewhere but I don’t see anything and I’m not sure exactly where to look. I have checked the belts and they look fine. The blade is a hard to spin by hand but i can’t recall the last time i tried to spin it so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.?

Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Jeff
?
?


Re: Drawer slide recommendations

 

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Glad it helped. ?I recommend you also try the Wurth Assy Plus screws. ?I use them all the time for cabinet construction. ?No cam-out Torx drive, self drilling, self countersinking, will not snap off, etc. ?They are as tough as GRK flathead screws, but smaller diameter so easier to drive into hardwood and Baltic birch ply with less splitting. ?


David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jan 9, 2025, at 1:38?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?
David Best - the Wurth Louis suggestion was great, I even got a free t-shirt from them!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941