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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
Netaniel,
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I went out to check out what I have and I have the answer:
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These are for a sacrificial piece of wood to be added to the crosscut fence:
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This is for a sacrificial piece to be added to the front of the fence:
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The other parts I cannot speak to.
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PK |
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Michael,
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I have used the SurfPrep 3x4 and subsequently bought and use a Ekasand 3x4 from Uneeda.? They seem to be identical and the Ekasand had a longer warranty.? Prices are the same, but Uneeda has far more sales than Surfprep.??
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I use the sander with the sponge sandpaper and I am very happy with it.? It excels at working on finishes and I have yet to see a pigtail from it ever.? Lots of shops use them to scuff before coats and the results are far better than hand sanding.
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There are lots of videos out there on them and how to use it on doors etc.
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They sell an adaptor to use it with the festool vacuums.
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PK |
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Hi Michael,?
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I have the Mirka 6" random orbit sander and I really like it. With the sander in hand I don't notice the paddle switch. For shop work I wouldn't hesitate to go all-in on Mirka. If you opt for Mirka, I suggest getting one of their ~18" hose sections which can thread directly onto the sander, this makes for a more well-balanced sander which is easier to handle.?
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If you're on the go, I'd suggest also considering the new Makita sanders. I recently ordered a Makita BO005CGZ 80mm x 133mm sander and I really like it. Very similar ergonomics to the Mirka Deros and Deos sanders, with the benefit of being cordless, running on the Makita 40V XGT platform. At present, the only way to get these sanders is to import from Japan or the UK via e-bay sellers, though it does look like Makita USA will be introducing the 6" 5mm random orbit sanders in early 2025, presumably with the others (6" 3mm, 5" 5mm, 5" 3mm, 80x133, and Delta) to come some time later.?
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Makita GOB01CZ: ?
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Standard 27mm hose bayonets fit the Makita XGT sanders fine, though for more finesse I suggest using a Makita vac as their hose will thread onto a special adapter, similar setup as the Mirka. I make extensive use of my Makita GCV04PMUX, best when paired with 8.0Ah batteries: ?
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Hope this is helpful,?
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Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
I have been using a 5" Mirka Deros since 2020. It just went kaput one day a couple weeks ago. Sent it in for service, they made it a very easy process. Came back with virtually every part replaced. Cost $320. It gets used a lot.? A finisher of mine uses the Surfprep and likes them a lot.? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
Pictures converted to jpg in case they don't open for you. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:57:19 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the next two pictures show the adjustment screws to set the fence to 90?. If you "knuckle" doesn't have that feature, you will need to add it, or get Felder to replace the knuckle with one that is square. Personally bI would want the ability to adjust the fence for square. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:41:24 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar, is not machined square to the faces that the fence extrusion mounts to. If that is the case, and you don't want to wait for Felder to come to their senses, fix it yourself by having the slot re-machined, or adding a set screw to the slot so it bears on the F bars and cures the issue. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:22:31 PM MST, Ron Pomeroy via groups.io <rpomeroy@...> wrote:
<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things>
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No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle.
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The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence will rise and fall as it travels left and right. At some point the fence can run into the table surface. ?
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The nylon screws underneath need to be adjusted so that:
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A) there is a small consistent gap between the aluminum fence extrusion and the table so that the fence sits just above the table. ?
B) the groove in the knuckle that rides on the flat bar sits perfectly flat and doesn¡¯t rock so your fence is stable and square to the table. If the nylon screws underneath are not adjusted correctly the fence assembly will rock and squareness will not be repeatable as you move the fence. the nylon screws underneath serve only two roles:
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As for the set screws in the knuckle - truth be told - I think it¡¯s a design flaw. Maybe they have a completely different purpose I don¡¯t know about. The rail and fence assemble designs are roughly the same on the Hammer N4400 and the Felder FB lines. ?It¡¯s interesting that the knuckle on the N4400 doesn¡¯t have any set screws. I also had to shim the fence on the N4400 to get it square (again I aligned the rails parallel to the table first). Drift/toe-out was adjusted by adjusting the bolts that hold the rail to the table.
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If I¡¯m wrong someone speak up and correct me.
?
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the next two pictures show the adjustment screws to set the fence to 90?. If you "knuckle" doesn't have that feature, you will need to add it, or get Felder to replace the knuckle with one that is square. Personally bI would want the ability to adjust the fence for square. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:41:24 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar, is not machined square to the faces that the fence extrusion mounts to. If that is the case, and you don't want to wait for Felder to come to their senses, fix it yourself by having the slot re-machined, or adding a set screw to the slot so it bears on the F bars and cures the issue. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:22:31 PM MST, Ron Pomeroy via groups.io <rpomeroy@...> wrote:
<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things>
?
No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle.
?
The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence will rise and fall as it travels left and right. At some point the fence can run into the table surface. ?
?
The nylon screws underneath need to be adjusted so that:
?
A) there is a small consistent gap between the aluminum fence extrusion and the table so that the fence sits just above the table. ?
B) the groove in the knuckle that rides on the flat bar sits perfectly flat and doesn¡¯t rock so your fence is stable and square to the table. If the nylon screws underneath are not adjusted correctly the fence assembly will rock and squareness will not be repeatable as you move the fence. the nylon screws underneath serve only two roles:
?
As for the set screws in the knuckle - truth be told - I think it¡¯s a design flaw. Maybe they have a completely different purpose I don¡¯t know about. The rail and fence assemble designs are roughly the same on the Hammer N4400 and the Felder FB lines. ?It¡¯s interesting that the knuckle on the N4400 doesn¡¯t have any set screws. I also had to shim the fence on the N4400 to get it square (again I aligned the rails parallel to the table first). Drift/toe-out was adjusted by adjusting the bolts that hold the rail to the table.
?
If I¡¯m wrong someone speak up and correct me.
?
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI believe those long set screws are provided to limit the force of the long (silver) clamping bar against the fence extrusion. ?At least that¡¯s what set screws like that are used for on some of the older sliding saw rip fences ?Those screws do not appear to be positioned to adjust the angle of the fence relative to the table surface. ?If there is such an adjustment, it would be where the knuckle attaches to the F-rail along the front of the table.?David Best - via mobile phone? On Dec 14, 2024, at 12:22?PM, Ron Pomeroy via groups.io <rpomeroy@...> wrote:
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things>
?
No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle.
?
The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence will rise and fall as it travels left and right. At some point the fence can run into the table surface. ?
?
The nylon screws underneath need to be adjusted so that:
?
A) there is a small consistent gap between the aluminum fence extrusion and the table so that the fence sits just above the table. ?
B) the groove in the knuckle that rides on the flat bar sits perfectly flat and doesn¡¯t rock so your fence is stable and square to the table. If the nylon screws underneath are not adjusted correctly the fence assembly will rock and squareness will not be repeatable as you move the fence. the nylon screws underneath serve only two roles:
?
As for the set screws in the knuckle - truth be told - I think it¡¯s a design flaw. Maybe they have a completely different purpose I don¡¯t know about. The rail and fence assemble designs are roughly the same on the Hammer N4400 and the Felder FB lines. ?It¡¯s interesting that the knuckle on the N4400 doesn¡¯t have any set screws. I also had to shim the fence on the N4400 to get it square (again I aligned the rails parallel to the table first). Drift/toe-out was adjusted by adjusting the bolts that hold the rail to the table.
?
If I¡¯m wrong someone speak up and correct me.
? |
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
I noticed your set screws are fully flush/retracted. ?For fun - adjust them outwards and see what that end up contacting. ?If our knuckles are machined the same they will protrude through the t-slot and contact the long metal clamping nut inside - thus putting pressure on the clamping nut - not the fence.
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Regards,
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Ron |
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Re: K 700S T slot nut
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe T-nuts supplied by Felder can be used for a variety of things including securing clamps and shop-made jigs to the sliding table. ?The same T-nut is also supplied as part of the connection kit that available for the short crosscut fence. ?The Felder T-nuts work fine for many applications, but if you buy??from Felder, you will also need the coupling kit shown at the bottom of that listing. ?That coupling kit comes with a T-Nut that may or may not give you accurate 90-degree registrations. ?User experience here varies. ? If you want actual dimension of the Felder-supplie T-nuts, you can find that on the left side of. ?There are also after-market stainless steel T-nuts that can be purchased from third parties, but they are not compatible with the short crosscut fence system. ?You might want to read through the 61 posts in this thread: ?/g/felderownersgroup/topic/89191815#msg121453David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
About the set screws:
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On both of the knuckles I received for my FB610 - the set screws an along a centerline the corresponds to the center of the opening in the t-slot. This also corresponds to the center of the long clamping bar/nut that holds the fence against the knuckle (see the blue line I added). ?As such they never contact the aluminum fence. As they protrude they will contact the fence nut and limit the nut¡¯s horizontal movement - stopping it shy of being able to force the fence against the flat machined surfaces on the knuckle. ?This only results in a loose fence. ?It¡¯s not theory - I just unscrewed the set screws and that¡¯s what happened. ?
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Are your set screws in a different position? ?Also I find it interesting that in the borrowed photo from Cornelius - the set screws are fully retracted - effectively un-used. I have a sneaky suspicion no one is actually using these set screws - for the reasons I¡¯ve explained. ?
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As always - would love to be proven wrong. I¡¯m here to learn.
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2024 1:21:17 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Cc: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep ?
Mike I couldn¡¯t see if this link showed up so here it is again. This is the one I was trying not to rectangular one.
Designing and building for 50 years On Dec 14, 2024, at 10:13?AM, Michael Marsico via groups.io <michael.marsico1@...> wrote:
-- Michael Marsico |
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PK
Tom Gensmer
Jason Holtz
David P. Best
Ron Pomeroy