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I have an older model, the Ceos, with a 150mm pad. The difference between the Ceos and the Deos is that the Deos comes with the transformer built into the sander, while the Ceos requires an external,

The sliding table and the splinter tongue shown in those drawings is of a pre-X-roll machine circa 2002. Just FYI. That said, the wing-screws and rhombus t-nuts could be used with the current crosscut

Tom thanks that is helpful Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2024 5:42:23 PM To: [email protected]

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Netaniel, I went out to check out what I have and I have the answer: These are for a sacrificial piece of wood to be added to the crosscut fence: This is for a sacrificial piece to be added to the

Michael, I have used the SurfPrep 3x4 and subsequently bought and use a Ekasand 3x4 from Uneeda.? They seem to be identical and the Ekasand had a longer warranty.? Prices are the same, but Uneeda

Hi Michael, I have the Mirka 6" random orbit sander and I really like it. With the sander in hand I don't notice the paddle switch. For shop work I wouldn't hesitate to go all-in on Mirka. If you opt

Thanks Jason - I have read really good things about both of them … probably cant go wrong with either Thank you Michael [email protected]> wrote:

I have been using a 5" Mirka Deros since 2020. It just went kaput one day a couple weeks ago. Sent it in for service, they made it a very easy process. Came back with virtually every part replaced.

Pictures converted to jpg in case they don't open for you. Brian Lambblamb11@...

Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the

As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar,

I believe those long set screws are provided to limit the force of the long (silver) clamping bar against the fence extrusion. At least that’s what set screws like that are used for on some of the

<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things> No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle. The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence

I noticed your set screws are fully flush/retracted. ?For fun - adjust them outwards and see what that end up contacting. ?If our knuckles are machined the same they will protrude through the t-slot

The T-nuts supplied by Felder can be used for a variety of things including securing clamps and shop-made jigs to the sliding table. The same T-nut is also supplied as part of the connection kit that

What will you use new T-nuts for? For simply securing clamps or jigs to the slider the nuts do not need to be particularly sophisticated. I made one with wood and a threaded insert, and then had a

Could you double check your set screws and where they actually contact the aluminum fence? If yours does can you take a pic? Mine just go through the t-slot opening and contact the long metal clamping

About the set screws: On both of the knuckles I received for my FB610 - the set screws an along a centerline the corresponds to the center of the opening in the t-slot. This also corresponds to the

Yes it did show up thanks for the comments ! Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2024 1:21:17 PM To: [email protected]