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Since it's no competition to give the advice you then choose (or is there some secret reward?), you're probably right to read and take all advice with a certain amount of skepticism. But one thing I

This is sapele with shellac and then a light wax. I’m partial to shellac because, although not the toughest, it will reflow with a fresh application so it’s super easy to repair/recoat- no

Mariusz 'opinion is the same as mine. I would never mix solid boards with underfloor heating, almost 100% guarantee it will move like crazy. Engineered floors are ideal for your situation. An

I’m not sure this will be helpful at all as I will express just my thoughts and personal opinion. Personally I do not know anybody that has solid wood floors with radiant heating. I know it can be

HI in line with recent discussions but a little off the main threads, i too am hopeing to do the wood work in a new Chalet Conversion in France and was wondering what the general advice is around

Thank you Netanel, Mac, Henrik, Tom for your replies and Brett for a very comprehensive response, really appreciate it guys! As some of you already know I’m building my house with the idea of doing

Hello, I’m trying to determine how to place the new seals I have on order from McMaster. ?For those that were successful on the newer RL units, did you cut holes in the seals for the hold-down

I only use wax/oils for furniture. If I'm doing a kitchen or bath or something where I want durability, my go to is Sherwin Williams Water White Conversion Varnish.? It's sold in their industrial

I rarely grain fill unless it is a special "table" style surface or a very fine piece of furniture. Cabinets are rare. With sapele and mahogany both, sometimes surface-tension effects with the finish

Hi Mariusz I have used sapele in cabinets and I don't think the pores cause any problems. I use hard wax oil in several thin coatings. The first seals, the second fills the pores and then a thin third

Marius I’m not gonna be much help on finishing I think with finer furniture used to be finished They used French polish which used Plaster Paris filler I think and then a shellac surface over that.

If you like the color of Sapele, I would try Renner 718

I decided on using Sapele for my kitchen cabinets and I will be running some finishing tests to determine what kind of finish we like best. I have not worked with sapele before and I’m looking for

i messed up trying to post earlier on this topic., so will try again. I did send Dennis a pic in case it might be useful, and he sent a gracious response. I am pretty frugal and the old italian saw I

Tom, I have a lock that might be original I forget but I set mine above the material quickly and lock. I also replaced the dampers and values . I have been happy with the gray felder guard.

Tom, I believe that is just an adjustable height stop. I’ll look at it tomorrow. If I can get more height from the guard I might remove it. I can see no reason why I would want to lock the guard in

Martin, would love to know if you have a more detailed thread on the construction of your guard? Joe, I've only noticed the "tab" (with the allen head bolt) fairly recently, and couldn't see it

A little sawdust on the table would help my self esteem. Dave ________________________________ Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2024 5:22 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]>

I made an overhead guard for my T17 with help from my welding friend. 3” and 2 1/2” tube. Bought a Suva blade guard. Looked at a lot of aftermarket guards but could find nothing that fit the saw.

Mac, that is a really nice setup. I planned on using a 2x2 x 3/16 tube for my main vertical support, but I think you may have changed my mind to use a 5x5 x 1/8 tube that I have here left over from