Re: sliding table saw: parallel fence vs 2nd crosscut fence?
#k700s
Thank you David.
I watched all the videos in your link. I also showed the CNC shop your video what I was there this afternoon. I? that explain? the required tight fit. tolerance? , he said it is doable and he can make those.
He should get back to me with a quote on pricing (including material cost).
I asked for a batch of 20 (based on a list Imran made few weeks ago), let's see what the price will be.
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Re: sliding table saw: parallel fence vs 2nd crosscut fence?
#k700s
Yes, this is not as simple as making a precision T-nut. - The thickness of tabs that overhang the T-slot on the Felder sliding table vary in thickness. ?For this reason, the T-nut must have grub screws on one side to level the high-tolerance ccunterbore of the T-Nut to be precisely perpendicular to the top surface of the sliding table.
- A mating bushing is required to go with the T-nut that matches the counterbore with the same tolerance requirement, and that the bushing must be installed in the Felder clamping block by drilling out the clamping block and either press-fitting the bushing into each clamping block, or by modifying the Kipp lever to receive a grub screw that is added to the clamping block.
I have posted two series of photos and videos that go into all that is required in excruciating detail. ?The first series is?. ? Pay attention to??in particular. ?The second series describes the installation of the retrofit kit which discusses the T-nut leveling specifically and is?. ?Note that with the kits I made, I provided a matching extension shaft to aid in leveling the T-nut as discussed in?. ?If the T-nut is not precisely level, the bushing in the clamping block will bind in the T-nut counterbore and probably damage it.
Like I have said before, this is not as simple as making a precision T-nut, and each clamping block must be modified to include a precision bushing. ?WATCH THE VIDEOS.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Nov 14, 2024, at 11:49?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I was at a local CNC machinery for a small job I need. I asked them if they can produce the T-nut and bushing with the tight tolerance of less than 0.0005¡± and they confirm they can.
I think to buy the 303 stainless steel + 17-4 stainless steel rod and do a prototype with them.
Is they anything I should be aware of before preparing the prototype?
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
Hi John, they work well, the only issue you'll run into is guarding.
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The tenon hood isn't built for cutting rearward of the spindle, it's built for larger cutters forward of the spindle.
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Regards, Rod.
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Re: sliding table saw: parallel fence vs 2nd crosscut fence?
#k700s
I was at a local CNC machinery for a small job I need. I asked them if they can produce the T-nut and bushing with the tight tolerance of less than 0.0005¡± and they confirm they can.
I think to buy the 303 stainless steel + 17-4 stainless steel rod and do a prototype with them.
Is they anything I should be aware of before preparing the prototype?
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Wow, that's nutz. Love it. Tom Ruth
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These are 100% done with a 3D cut path on the CNC. Even the tiniest amount of sanding would be evident or erase details. I soak with Rubio Monocoat, then with an air nozzle in one hand to remove excess in the tight areas and fresh small rags in the other, I remove most of it. I work a panel or two at a time. Even with that, it brings out nice detail in the Sapele and seals it up.? 
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Thanks for the info Bryce. ?I eventually found the manual taped to the top of the extractor and it detailed the seal placement as you described.
For future reference:?
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The sock filter part number is: 02.1.140 and is called ¡°Replacement filter hose for chip boxes¡±. It isn¡¯t listed on the US site but is on the UK one. This is for RL125-RL200. ?The base of mine is cemented down. ?
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I still haven¡¯t found a part number for the brushes and am waiting on my reps response.
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Andrew Goodwin?
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Ok, i just remembered to check for a part number for the wiping brushes, and came up empty handed i'm afraid. I would contact your local Felder rep, i'm sure they will be able to sort them out for you.
Regards,
Bryce
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www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Fun removing the wax finish to do conversion varnish basically after sand it all often make sure every bit of the wax is gone otherwise it doesn¡¯t work And yes, as far as I¡¯m concerned, conversion varnish is time the way to go?
mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 12, 2024, at 7:07?AM, DanielD via groups.io <dan@...> wrote:
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This is sapele with shellac and then a light wax. I¡¯m partial to shellac because, although not the toughest, it will reflow with a fresh application so it¡¯s super easy to repair/recoat- no stripping needed. If you do need to strip, denatured alcohol cleans it up. It sticks to anything, and any other coating will adhere to it (but I¡¯m sure you know all this).
Cheers
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Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Andrew,
I'm definitely no authority on this subject, but having just pulled the filters out of my RL200 to manually clean them, i can tell you that the seals on it are level with the inside edge and don't go over the bolt holes. I don't see an advantage of covering the holes, as the filter sits inside the holes and the seal is made between the machine and the outside edge of the filter. As for the cloth sock thing, i would just take it off and throw it in with your washing. I'm sure that will sort that one out. I'll have a look in the manual this morning when i get to work to see if i can find a part number for the brushes.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
Hi John, I use it all the time and with a bit of care, it will give perfect results.?
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I'm helping Whitehill out in North America so feel free to reach out with any questions you may have.? I suggest you connect with Whitehill quickly to verify that the washer on your machine is compatible with one that they have available.? Sometimes Felder changes the design, and it's worth a check.? I can do this for you if you like,
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Brent
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Thank you Henrik,Daniel & Michael!
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I will definitely include hard wax oil and tung oil in my tests.?
Mariusz
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
I bought mine for large tenon work and I can¡¯t fault it.? Set the fence up as a bump stop and the tenon shoulders work out perfect. Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
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I really like mine. 4¡± may require something done with guards.
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Mark Foster
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
I really like mine. 4¡± may require something done with guards.
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On Nov 12, 2024, at 15:08, John Deming via groups.io <jldjr26@...> wrote:
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Mark Foster
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
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Re: Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
I have. And they work as advertised.? I find they are fit ready off the shaper and only occasionally need to refine them with a hand plane.?
I thought at first the head being on top of the spindle would cause an uneven cut, in practice however the head cuts even and clean.?
Has anyone here used the Whitehill Hammer / felder flush mount combi heads for long tenons?? I have a felder F700z .? I build reproduction furniture so i was thinking this head could be used to rough in 4+¡± tenons that I would finish plane in by hand.? Would these heads used on an open shaper setup work well?
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Whitehill Hammer / Felder flush mount Combi Heads for long tenons ?
Has anyone here used the Whitehill Hammer / felder flush mount combi heads for long tenons? ?I have a felder F700z . ?I build reproduction furniture so i was thinking this head could be used to rough in 4+¡± tenons that I would finish plane in by hand. ?Would these heads used on an open shaper setup work well?
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Re: Some questions on the Overhead Guard
Why Mac, it's obvious.
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The first step in treating a mental health issue or addiction is to recognize it as as a problem. :-)
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Regards, Rod.
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Re: Floor Finishing - Oak/Cherry/Walnut
Has anyone used a 2K additive available for a couple of hardwax oil options, namely Saicos and Whittle Waxes? There may be others. I have the Whittle Waxes version to add to the Evolution Hardwax Oil and am
very curious about the impact on durability. Of course I¡¯ll report in due course but someone else may already have experience. Thanks.
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[Edited Message Follows]
I¡¯m not sure this will be helpful at all as I will express just my thoughts and personal opinion.
Personally I do not know anybody that has solid wood floors with radiant heating. I know it can be done, but unless you make multiple deep relief cuts on the underside of each board it might be difficult to keep it from going wild on you even if you heat it
all year long. If you make those relief cuts you will wind up with the solid wood thickness of a few mm which is exactly what an engineered floor will have, giving you the same amount of sanding you will be able to do.
With a typical engineered floor you have 3 layers two of which are sometimes relief cut pine glued perpendicular to each other keeping it in check and about 4mm of the final layer. Even though engineered floors
are designed to be used for radiant heating they still move. You do have to glue it down as a floating option does not make sense, so you will not feel any difference.?
I¡¯m sure if going this route will be worth the effort and extra heating expenses even if you are planning for solar panels.
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Nice summary Henrik! Chris Rozycki?
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On Nov 12, 2024, at 9:26?AM, Michael Todrin via groups.io <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
? Here is a Sapele sideboard finished in Waterlox. I have also used waterlox on a bathroom vanity top and it is holding up well after 4 years.?
<IMG_0579.jpeg> <IMG_0580.jpeg>
Michael On Nov 12, 2024, at 8:19?AM, HenrikJ via groups.io <henrik@...> wrote:
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Since it's no competition to give the advice you then choose (or is there some secret reward?), you're probably right to read and take all advice with a certain amount of skepticism.
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But one thing I want to clarify about "regular" oil, wax and hard wax oil. There are three completely different types of surface treatment. Before I built my current kitchen with solid oak work surfaces, I did quite a few tests. I treated some oak boards with lacquer, wax, danish oil, hard wax oil, paraffin and some wipe-ons and mono-coats of unknown contents. I made marks with a hammer, scraper and needle and left the oak boards for a day with water, wine, boiling coffee and hot oil on them.
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It was quickly possible to sort out non-oxidizing oils such as paraffin and wax, as it barely protected anything at all. The various mono-coats did pretty well, but without good table of contents I don't want them on worktops in a kitchen. Lacquer and hardwax oil (Osmo did best) were equal until the surface was scratched. Then the hard wax oil did better as it penetrated deeper into the wood.
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The nicest and most natural surface was given by wax and Danish oil. The most plastic and unnatural was Lacquer. Best durability and second best appearance was a good oxidizing hard wax oil. The brand I got the best results with was Osmo, but there are probably more good ones.
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Our kitchen is now five years old and the work surfaces are still nice. A few scratches where my wife uses the workbench as a baking table and where my children usually play chefs, but nothing worse than scratches in the surface treatment. Even under my coffee maker where water and coffee are allowed to remain for far too long.
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//Henrik
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David P. Best
rodsheridan
Caesar Simon
Bryce Comer
Mark Foster
David Luckensmeyer