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Re: CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Greg,

My comment was in general when material catches on outfeed all of a sudden while machine has been working fine. Since you are getting a snipe I would do what Brian recommended.

Imran Malik

On Sep 23, 2024, at 4:31?PM, Greg Goldin via groups.io <goldinarch@...> wrote:

?
Hi Brian and Imran,
?
First, thanks for the super-speedy, and helpful replies.
?
I will try jointing a different piece of wood before playing around with the height adjustment.
?
And, I'll aim for .001" below the cutting diameter of the knives if I have make the adjustment.
?
Much appreciated.
?
Greg
Re: CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

Hi Brian and Imran,
?
First, thanks for the super-speedy, and helpful replies.
?
I will try jointing a different piece of wood before playing around with the height adjustment.
?
And, I'll aim for .001" below the cutting diameter of the knives if I have make the adjustment.
?
Much appreciated.
?
Greg
Re: CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Greg,

Snipe on trailing edge in general is an indicator of the outfeed table being lower than the arc of cut it top dead center of the blade. As the material leaves the infeed table it would cause the snipe as the outfeed is lower.

I would do exactly what Brian said and hopefully that would take care of it.

I am mostly responding to mention that, on occasion, I have had pieces that catch on the outfeed table on approach. In my case it has been due to the bow in the piece. The issue goes away on subsequent passes. So just a word of caution, try again or joint a different board before any adjustments.

Imran Malik

On Sep 23, 2024, at 2:55?PM, Greg Goldin via groups.io <goldinarch@...> wrote:

?
Hi All,
?
My YR 2000 CF 731 suddenly decided to give me snipe on the trailing end of my work piece. This began after I made adjustments to the temple bolts to fix an issue of my work piece hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table. This occurred, as they say, sua sponte. Not sure why, but spent the requisite mountain of hours chasing the issue down. I got my cutter block parallel to the outfeed table within .001", following David Best's technique, using my One Way gauge. After that adjustment, I tightened the table down, and got a perfect, dead-flat cut. Admittedly, the board I was jointing was only 13" long, so that was probably a poor test. But, still, I thought I was done! Then I noticed that the temple bolt closest to the cutter block was wobbly when the table wasn't secured. I realized that the jam nut beneath the machine chassis wasn't cinched. I removed the interior cover plate and found the jam nut, and carefully tightened it. I then lowered the bed, tightened the cam lever, and took another cut. SNIPE at the last 1" or so of the board. Curses. I checked the cutter block. It was still within .001 of parallel. I checked the knife height, using my straight edge. It contacted the knives and moved about 6mm. Way too much.
?
I talked to Felder this morning and their advice was to tinker very gingerly with the temple bolt closest to the cutter block, but I assume this will only drive the outfeed table out of parallel to the cutter block.
?
Should I start the whole process from the beginning and double-check that the cutter block and outfeed are parallel, and then attempt to set the outfeed at the correct height (per David Best .039") relative to the cutter block by using the lever mechanism beneath the outfeed table? Does that lever mechanism raise/lower the entire table in plane along the ways, or does it merely tilt the table relative to the cutter block, to produce convex or concave cuts. The latter is what the original owner's manual says it does and what the Felder tech told me it does, but doesn't seem likely given how the table is secured in the ways.
?
Is there a cure for what ails my jointer?
?
Thanks for the help!
?
Greg
?
?
Re: Phase Perfect Simple

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Bruce,

Felder does not have regenerative braking. PTS models do not have line filters. Since I don¡¯t know the details of the PTS design I can only speculate that the issue is due to the missing line filters. I would inquire from PP if line filter can be added externally.

Imran Malik

On Sep 23, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Bruce Gordon via groups.io <bruce@...> wrote:

?
I'm having some issues with the PP PTS005 I installed yesterday running a 2012 AD741 with digi-drive that fits in this thread. I had been using a rotary phase converter to run the AD741 with no problems but I'm adding a 5hp 3 phase compressor that will run more continuously with a CNC and wanted something more efficient and quieter. The new PP PTS005 starts the AD741 with no problem but when I turn it off and the brake kicks in, I get a 'voltage unbalance fault' on the PP unit and it shuts down, I have to cycle it to bring it back up. I spoke to their tech today and he said I needed the enterprise unit for that regenerative load caused by the brake to solve that issue. He said I could just ignore it as long as I don't mind having to cycle the PP unit every time or they offered the trade-up for the enterprise. I'm currently chewing on that $1400 upgrade, he also mentioned I'd get better longevity with the enterprise but I'm not sure that's not just some sales fluff.
Re: CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

Using the height adjustment lever, forgot to mention that. That is what it is there for.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 12:05:51 PM MST, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:


Move the outfeed table up to the point where it is .001" below the cutting diameter of the blades.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 11:55:52 AM MST, Greg Goldin <goldinarch@...> wrote:


Hi All,
?
My YR 2000 CF 731 suddenly decided to give me snipe on the trailing end of my work piece. This began after I made adjustments to the temple bolts to fix an issue of my work piece hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table. This occurred, as they say, sua sponte. Not sure why, but spent the requisite mountain of hours chasing the issue down. I got my cutter block parallel to the outfeed table within .001", following David Best's technique, using my One Way gauge. After that adjustment, I tightened the table down, and got a perfect, dead-flat cut. Admittedly, the board I was jointing was only 13" long, so that was probably a poor test. But, still, I thought I was done! Then I noticed that the temple bolt closest to the cutter block was wobbly when the table wasn't secured. I realized that the jam nut beneath the machine chassis wasn't cinched. I removed the interior cover plate and found the jam nut, and carefully tightened it. I then lowered the bed, tightened the cam lever, and took another cut. SNIPE at the last 1" or so of the board. Curses. I checked the cutter block. It was still within .001 of parallel. I checked the knife height, using my straight edge. It contacted the knives and moved about 6mm. Way too much.
?
I talked to Felder this morning and their advice was to tinker very gingerly with the temple bolt closest to the cutter block, but I assume this will only drive the outfeed table out of parallel to the cutter block.
?
Should I start the whole process from the beginning and double-check that the cutter block and outfeed are parallel, and then attempt to set the outfeed at the correct height (per David Best .039") relative to the cutter block by using the lever mechanism beneath the outfeed table? Does that lever mechanism raise/lower the entire table in plane along the ways, or does it merely tilt the table relative to the cutter block, to produce convex or concave cuts. The latter is what the original owner's manual says it does and what the Felder tech told me it does, but doesn't seem likely given how the table is secured in the ways.
?
Is there a cure for what ails my jointer?
?
Thanks for the help!
?
Greg
?
?
Re: CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

Move the outfeed table up to the point where it is .001" below the cutting diameter of the blades.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 11:55:52 AM MST, Greg Goldin <goldinarch@...> wrote:


Hi All,
?
My YR 2000 CF 731 suddenly decided to give me snipe on the trailing end of my work piece. This began after I made adjustments to the temple bolts to fix an issue of my work piece hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table. This occurred, as they say, sua sponte. Not sure why, but spent the requisite mountain of hours chasing the issue down. I got my cutter block parallel to the outfeed table within .001", following David Best's technique, using my One Way gauge. After that adjustment, I tightened the table down, and got a perfect, dead-flat cut. Admittedly, the board I was jointing was only 13" long, so that was probably a poor test. But, still, I thought I was done! Then I noticed that the temple bolt closest to the cutter block was wobbly when the table wasn't secured. I realized that the jam nut beneath the machine chassis wasn't cinched. I removed the interior cover plate and found the jam nut, and carefully tightened it. I then lowered the bed, tightened the cam lever, and took another cut. SNIPE at the last 1" or so of the board. Curses. I checked the cutter block. It was still within .001 of parallel. I checked the knife height, using my straight edge. It contacted the knives and moved about 6mm. Way too much.
?
I talked to Felder this morning and their advice was to tinker very gingerly with the temple bolt closest to the cutter block, but I assume this will only drive the outfeed table out of parallel to the cutter block.
?
Should I start the whole process from the beginning and double-check that the cutter block and outfeed are parallel, and then attempt to set the outfeed at the correct height (per David Best .039") relative to the cutter block by using the lever mechanism beneath the outfeed table? Does that lever mechanism raise/lower the entire table in plane along the ways, or does it merely tilt the table relative to the cutter block, to produce convex or concave cuts. The latter is what the original owner's manual says it does and what the Felder tech told me it does, but doesn't seem likely given how the table is secured in the ways.
?
Is there a cure for what ails my jointer?
?
Thanks for the help!
?
Greg
?
?
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

Imran,?
?
Thanks, yes I've been very happy with the setup. For my particular wants/needs (mostly doors and windows), it hits a nice sweet spot of precision, capability, and price point.?
?
Jared,?
?
Thanks for sharing that TI-120, that's a slick setup. I considered the TI-120 as I liked the idea of the tilting spindle, but for whatever reason, SCM does not offer it with the TL Pro-10 package.?
?
Kory,?
?
I'm sure you'll be happy working with either the F7/F-700/T55ES. The F-700 part of my KS-700 works great, I built a fair number of windows/doors with it and it helped to pay for the TF-130.
?
I totally understand wanting to control the footprint of the machine. At ~10 feet long, my TF-130 definitely has a footprint. If you go with a new build F-700 I'd strongly recommend getting the table extension mounting bars. Likewise, if you opt for a T55ES, make sure to order either the Felder bars or Aigner bars so you can extend your in-feed/out-feed support if/when needed.?
?
Also, don't discount the machines with all-cast iron tops. While the aluminum sliding tables can be handy, they can also be challenging to dial in perfectly, and limit some of your options for aftermarket accessories. With a solid cast iron top, you can easily perform cross-grain work with the Aigner Contermax for cabinet doors and door/window work using dowel joinery. If you need to process pieces with deeper tenons, you can always add the Rangate tenoning table at a later time.?
?
Regarding tilting spindles, my KF-700 has a tilting spindle and my Profil 45 Z had a tilting spindle, and I was concerned that I would miss it on my TF-130, but thus far it hasn't been an issue. I did acquire the and it has worked great for bevels. With a range of -47 degrees (tilting backwards) to +69 degrees (tilting forward), it exceeds the range of most tilting spindles. I am aware there are some interesting tricks which can be played with panel raising cutters on tilting spindles, but for my work it hasn't been necessary.?
?
One last thing to consider is the fences. The current Felder "230" fence is nice and sturdy once locked down, but it can be a little fussy to dial in to exactly where you want it. If I were to start over with a F700 or F900, one of the first things I'd do is to put a DRO on it to facilitate setups. It's unclear to me whether the T55ES fence comes with digital readouts, if not it might be worth asking if bumping to a Nova machine might give you that option. Once properly calibrated, the DROs on my TF-130 are spot-on, to the point where I can just trust the settings and generally don't run test cuts any more.?
?
Either way, it sounds like you'll be making a great upgrade, I'm excited to hear what you come up with and how you like it.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
CF 731 Pro Jointer Snipe / Adjustment

 

Hi All,
?
My YR 2000 CF 731 suddenly decided to give me snipe on the trailing end of my work piece. This began after I made adjustments to the temple bolts to fix an issue of my work piece hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table. This occurred, as they say, sua sponte. Not sure why, but spent the requisite mountain of hours chasing the issue down. I got my cutter block parallel to the outfeed table within .001", following David Best's technique, using my One Way gauge. After that adjustment, I tightened the table down, and got a perfect, dead-flat cut. Admittedly, the board I was jointing was only 13" long, so that was probably a poor test. But, still, I thought I was done! Then I noticed that the temple bolt closest to the cutter block was wobbly when the table wasn't secured. I realized that the jam nut beneath the machine chassis wasn't cinched. I removed the interior cover plate and found the jam nut, and carefully tightened it. I then lowered the bed, tightened the cam lever, and took another cut. SNIPE at the last 1" or so of the board. Curses. I checked the cutter block. It was still within .001 of parallel. I checked the knife height, using my straight edge. It contacted the knives and moved about 6mm. Way too much.
?
I talked to Felder this morning and their advice was to tinker very gingerly with the temple bolt closest to the cutter block, but I assume this will only drive the outfeed table out of parallel to the cutter block.
?
Should I start the whole process from the beginning and double-check that the cutter block and outfeed are parallel, and then attempt to set the outfeed at the correct height (per David Best .039") relative to the cutter block by using the lever mechanism beneath the outfeed table? Does that lever mechanism raise/lower the entire table in plane along the ways, or does it merely tilt the table relative to the cutter block, to produce convex or concave cuts. The latter is what the original owner's manual says it does and what the Felder tech told me it does, but doesn't seem likely given how the table is secured in the ways.
?
Is there a cure for what ails my jointer?
?
Thanks for the help!
?
Greg
?
?
Re: Phase Perfect Simple

 

I'm having some issues with the PP PTS005 I installed yesterday running a 2012 AD741 with digi-drive that fits in this thread. I had been using a rotary phase converter to run the AD741 with no problems but I'm adding a 5hp 3 phase compressor that will run more continuously with a CNC and wanted something more efficient and quieter. The new PP PTS005 starts the AD741 with no problem but when I turn it off and the brake kicks in, I get a 'voltage unbalance fault' on the PP unit and it shuts down, I have to cycle it to bring it back up. I spoke to their tech today and he said I needed the enterprise unit for that regenerative load caused by the brake to solve that issue. He said I could just ignore it as long as I don't mind having to cycle the PP unit every time or they offered the trade-up for the enterprise. I'm currently chewing on that $1400 upgrade, he also mentioned I'd get better longevity with the enterprise but I'm not sure that's not just some sales fluff.
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

Tom,
?
The T130 is certainly a nice machine (you have an amazing setup!), and I have considered it. I could have picked up the T130 in the MachineryMax auction that Jared mentioned above for a good price. However, it's missing tilt, and it does not have a sliding table without the package you mention. I don't think that can be added after purchasing either, but perhaps I'm wrong?
?
For this purchase I am optimizing for the most features in the smallest footprint, with build quality solid enough for me to build doors & windows in my spare time. The TW55ES is about a big of a machine as I can fit in my garage without moving houses, selling other equipment, for getting very creative with my space. I think it is the best compromise (though I am open to changing my mind).
?
Since this is exclusively for hobby work (and maybe for the occasional commission), I don't think I can justify a price bump up to a T130 level of machine. I would be very surprised if I hit the limit of the build on the TW55ES given how few hours I'm actually going to put in on it. SCM rep claims it's the same quill / build as the T110, for what it's worth.
?
Kory
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

There was a nice looking 2015 ti120 with the side tenoning table and decent looking air clamp setup that just went on machinerymax for 6k.?



On Mon, Sep 23, 2024, 9:25 AM David Kumm via <davekumm=[email protected]> wrote:
Tom, I agree that your set up is about 3 levels above the F7.? A side mount tenoning table, if you have the space, is pick of the coping litter.? The spindle bearings on the T130 were lightened up in the early 2000s and I wonder if the TF might follow the older build with double bearings at the top of the quill vs the single 6009 used on later T130.? Still, the T130 is a much more commercial build than either the 700 or 900 , or T55.

The eastern block European countries made a very nice Martin copy, branded as Unitronix, EMA, Kirchenfeld, Polamco, etc, that had a nice side mounted table and open oil drip bearings.? I don't know if they eventually went to greased bearings as did Martin when they slightly lightened up their machines.

Dave
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Tom Gensmer <tom@...>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2024 8:06 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
?
David Kumm,?
?
Sound like you're pretty well set up, but if you were to consolidate down to a single machine I can share that I've been very happy with my TF-130.
-- I ordered mine with the TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast-iron in-feed table, and pull-out material support.
-- It's an all-mechanical machine, so there's no microprocessors to fail.
-- Digital (mechanical) indicators for the spindle height, primary fence and in-feed fence positions.?
-- "Flex" hood system allows you to swing the hood out of the way, uses two heavy indexing pins to properly locate on the table.?
?
It's a great setup, and I've found it just as easy/fast to set up as the touch-screen machines.?
?
Kory,?
?
I'd suggest taking a loot at a "stock" TF-130 and comparing it to the T55ES. The TF-130 likely doesn't have some of the bells/whistles of the T55ES, but my suspicion is that the TF-130 is a fundamentally more capable machine, which you can always accessorize at a later time. I'd also suggest that, as enticing as the integrated sliding table may seem on the F7/F-700/T55ES, I've been much happier with the solid cast iron top on my TF-130. For quick/easy tenoning I've been more than happy using the . For heavier tenoning work, I have my TL Pro-10 side-mount tenoning table, but you can always acquire the , which simply bolts on to any cast iron top, and takes no more time to set up than adding/aligning a fence on a aluminum sliding table.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

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a78258f9-2f86-4edb-b345-c5dc65aa8eb1_largesize.jpg

Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Tom,

Thanks for the details. That is a great setup.

Imran Malik

On Sep 23, 2024, at 9:12?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:

?
Hi Imran,?
?
My TF-130 came out to be ~$30k. The TL Pro-10 package alone is ~$11k. Other options I included were:
-- TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast iron in-feed table, pull-out material support bar, tenoning hood, and turret stop.?
-- "Flex" fence system which allows the fence to swing out of the way
-- "Fast" sectional table, which replaces the cast iron insert rings with a sliding section of table with a Garolite insert that slides in dovetail ways
-- 1-1/4" spindle, 40mm spindle, router spindle
-- Strangely, stock SCM machines come standard with Imperial displays, I had to have my machine custom configured with MM displays
?
It's essentially the same configuration as Albert Lee's TI-145, minus the tilting spindle and electronics.?
?
When I placed the order, lead time was ~6 months.?
?
I've since added a DS-400 smart stand, Aigner Integral fences, and bored/tapped for the Aigner Bowmould 220. I've been really happy with it thus far. With the mechanical digital displays, I can set up tooling just as fast as on the Profil 45 X-Motion.?
?
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Tom, I agree that your set up is about 3 levels above the F7.? A side mount tenoning table, if you have the space, is pick of the coping litter.? The spindle bearings on the T130 were lightened up in the early 2000s and I wonder if the TF might follow the older build with double bearings at the top of the quill vs the single 6009 used on later T130.? Still, the T130 is a much more commercial build than either the 700 or 900 , or T55.

The eastern block European countries made a very nice Martin copy, branded as Unitronix, EMA, Kirchenfeld, Polamco, etc, that had a nice side mounted table and open oil drip bearings.? I don't know if they eventually went to greased bearings as did Martin when they slightly lightened up their machines.

Dave

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Tom Gensmer <tom@...>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2024 8:06 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
?
David Kumm,?
?
Sound like you're pretty well set up, but if you were to consolidate down to a single machine I can share that I've been very happy with my TF-130.
-- I ordered mine with the TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast-iron in-feed table, and pull-out material support.
-- It's an all-mechanical machine, so there's no microprocessors to fail.
-- Digital (mechanical) indicators for the spindle height, primary fence and in-feed fence positions.?
-- "Flex" hood system allows you to swing the hood out of the way, uses two heavy indexing pins to properly locate on the table.?
?
It's a great setup, and I've found it just as easy/fast to set up as the touch-screen machines.?
?
Kory,?
?
I'd suggest taking a loot at a "stock" TF-130 and comparing it to the T55ES. The TF-130 likely doesn't have some of the bells/whistles of the T55ES, but my suspicion is that the TF-130 is a fundamentally more capable machine, which you can always accessorize at a later time. I'd also suggest that, as enticing as the integrated sliding table may seem on the F7/F-700/T55ES, I've been much happier with the solid cast iron top on my TF-130. For quick/easy tenoning I've been more than happy using the . For heavier tenoning work, I have my TL Pro-10 side-mount tenoning table, but you can always acquire the , which simply bolts on to any cast iron top, and takes no more time to set up than adding/aligning a fence on a aluminum sliding table.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

Hi Imran,?
?
My TF-130 came out to be ~$30k. The TL Pro-10 package alone is ~$11k. Other options I included were:
-- TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast iron in-feed table, pull-out material support bar, tenoning hood, and turret stop.?
-- "Flex" fence system which allows the fence to swing out of the way
-- "Fast" sectional table, which replaces the cast iron insert rings with a sliding section of table with a Garolite insert that slides in dovetail ways
-- 1-1/4" spindle, 40mm spindle, router spindle
-- Strangely, stock SCM machines come standard with Imperial displays, I had to have my machine custom configured with MM displays
?
It's essentially the same configuration as Albert Lee's TI-145, minus the tilting spindle and electronics.?
?
When I placed the order, lead time was ~6 months.?
?
I've since added a DS-400 smart stand, Aigner Integral fences, and bored/tapped for the Aigner Bowmould 220. I've been really happy with it thus far. With the mechanical digital displays, I can set up tooling just as fast as on the Profil 45 X-Motion.?
?
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Tom,

How much did your TF-130 run with your configuration?

Imran Malik

On Sep 23, 2024, at 8:06?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:

?
David Kumm,?
?
Sound like you're pretty well set up, but if you were to consolidate down to a single machine I can share that I've been very happy with my TF-130.
-- I ordered mine with the TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast-iron in-feed table, and pull-out material support.
-- It's an all-mechanical machine, so there's no microprocessors to fail.
-- Digital (mechanical) indicators for the spindle height, primary fence and in-feed fence positions.?
-- "Flex" hood system allows you to swing the hood out of the way, uses two heavy indexing pins to properly locate on the table.?
?
It's a great setup, and I've found it just as easy/fast to set up as the touch-screen machines.?
?
Kory,?
?
I'd suggest taking a loot at a "stock" TF-130 and comparing it to the T55ES. The TF-130 likely doesn't have some of the bells/whistles of the T55ES, but my suspicion is that the TF-130 is a fundamentally more capable machine, which you can always accessorize at a later time. I'd also suggest that, as enticing as the integrated sliding table may seem on the F7/F-700/T55ES, I've been much happier with the solid cast iron top on my TF-130. For quick/easy tenoning I've been more than happy using the . For heavier tenoning work, I have my TL Pro-10 side-mount tenoning table, but you can always acquire the , which simply bolts on to any cast iron top, and takes no more time to set up than adding/aligning a fence on a aluminum sliding table.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

David Kumm,?
?
Sound like you're pretty well set up, but if you were to consolidate down to a single machine I can share that I've been very happy with my TF-130.
-- I ordered mine with the TL Pro-10 package, which includes the side-mount tenoning table, cast-iron in-feed table, and pull-out material support.
-- It's an all-mechanical machine, so there's no microprocessors to fail.
-- Digital (mechanical) indicators for the spindle height, primary fence and in-feed fence positions.?
-- "Flex" hood system allows you to swing the hood out of the way, uses two heavy indexing pins to properly locate on the table.?
?
It's a great setup, and I've found it just as easy/fast to set up as the touch-screen machines.?
?
Kory,?
?
I'd suggest taking a loot at a "stock" TF-130 and comparing it to the T55ES. The TF-130 likely doesn't have some of the bells/whistles of the T55ES, but my suspicion is that the TF-130 is a fundamentally more capable machine, which you can always accessorize at a later time. I'd also suggest that, as enticing as the integrated sliding table may seem on the F7/F-700/T55ES, I've been much happier with the solid cast iron top on my TF-130. For quick/easy tenoning I've been more than happy using the . For heavier tenoning work, I have my TL Pro-10 side-mount tenoning table, but you can always acquire the , which simply bolts on to any cast iron top, and takes no more time to set up than adding/aligning a fence on a aluminum sliding table.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I'd offer 5500.? If he takes it, contact me and I'll loan you the 3/4" spindle to finish your doors, just pay shipping . ? As to the SCM, Minimax, I'd look at the motors before upgrading.? My only complaint with SCM machines are the Italian motors.? I've had to rewind a couple and they tend to run hot - or at least they used to.? May be different now but the motors for the US market were the same as the 7.5 p @ 50hz, just speeded up to 60 hz and producing 9 hp.? That should not cause problems, particularly with new, but I'd ask about the motors before paying much of an upcharge for 10 hp.

I'm still mixed about the F7.? I love my machine, but a newer shaper with better fence, new Smart stand feeder, and an easier way to convert settings would be nice.? I have the room so it was cheaper for me to buy three used machines and never reset a fence when doing doors and panels.? If I only had one machine, set up ease would be a big deal.?

Dave

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of korywat@... <korywat@...>
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2024 11:25 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?
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Just to clarify fully, the owner is . I'm budgeting about $1500 on top of that for freight since I need liftgate delivery.
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The challenge with the 3/4'' spindle is I have a LOT of existing tooling for it, and I don't want to swap all of it out immediately. I'm halfway through replacing all doors in my home with that existing tooling, so it's important to me I keep using it to match the exact profile & build of doors I've build already.
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The is actually about $10.5k new, but it's $15k when optioned and taxes & delivery are added:
* outrigger table
* 10HP (instead of 8HP) motor
* "swing away" feeder arm
* 3/4'' spindle
* 10% sales tax
* 1k freight
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I'm looking at SCM since a new F700Z does not seem competitive when I add the tenoning table and protection hood, which come standard with the SCM.
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Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

In 2021 I purchased a 2019 F700Z that was essentially never used with a Felder 4 wheel feeder for $7500 plus freight.

Your opportunity sounds expensive but I have not been watching prices.

As a side note one machinery dealer here in the Phoenix area told me that 2024 year to date was down 30% over 2023 and July 2024 was down 40% over July 2023. He said the small commercial shop business was dead. In the last building downturn I got a ton of great deals on machines.
Re: Thoughts on purchasing older F7 shapers?

 

I ordered the 3/4 spindle when I bought my KF700 but after using larger 30 mm shaper I would never use the 3/4. What a difference.
Sent from Philip Davidson





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Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
Re: RL160 filter change

 

I owned an older RL160 (2018?) and my starting capacitor died. Unfortunately you have to cut into the machine (yup) to access that area so I added some sheet metal for a cover where the cutout was made. As part of the troubleshooting Felder recommended I remove the pleats to view the motor impeller and verify a restrictor collar was installed since if it is missing will overrun the machine.? I used a festool vac to get as much dust out as I could from inside the belly of the machine, disconnected the pleat cleaning rod and removed.? Four the pleats there were four screw hold down clamps per each pleat getting those off was pretty easy. Putting them on was a bit tougher.? ?It is an inconvenient task but not a big deal, wear a respirator and if possible wheel the machine outside and blow the heck out of it.? As you remove each pleat there will be nooks and crannies of fine dust piles which will surely fall into your eyes and hair so wear protection.? ?
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Jay Bowen
Cleveland
3641 - 3660 of 141087