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Re: Hard to turn angle/tilt wheel on K975
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Thomas, ? Congrats on the machine. The blade tilt mechanism is silky smooth on my saw. It is easier to tilt as the motor weight is falling and slightly harder to bring it back to 90. Still, I think I can do it with 2 fingers. This is just to give you an idea of what to expect. ? I had to remove this mechanism for a repair but that was many yrs ago. Anyhow, it would be helpful if you use the part numbers (see attached) in your problem description. Also verify assembly per the attached. ? ? ? Imran Malik ? ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of marrtw via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2024 10:16 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [FOG] Hard to turn angle/tilt wheel on K975 ? Thanks to generous help from a couple of FOG members, I recently purchased a 2005 K975. While inspecting the machine, I noticed the angle/tilt wheel is very difficult to turn. From the zero position, it starts turning easily but gets progressively harder, to the point where two hands are required. Assuming contamination, I cleaned and lubricated the threaded rod and nut, but this didn't resolve the issue. However, it turns more easily if I loosen the four screws holding the rod to the saw frame, allowing the rod assembly to "move around" in the frame while turning.? Suspecting the rod might be bent, I removed it for further inspection. It's straight and shows no evidence of wear. With the threaded rod removed, the trunnion assembly moves freely through its range by hand. I noticed the mechanism used to fix the rod to the frame has a pin through the mount, allowing the rod to pivot in one direction while turning. I assume this pivot function is designed to compensate for any variation in the rod's straightness. Perhaps it's important to mount this pivot in the vertical or horizontal position. Additionally, the nut is very difficult to move (pivot) on the trunnion with the rod removed. I had to use a large screwdriver to pivot the nut and am having some difficulty getting the rod threaded back into the nut due to alignment issues (although I have attached it once but removed the rod again for further inspection). I'm tempted to remove the nut for inspection, but it's hard to reach and wouldn't be an easy job. Any thoughts or advice on what to check next? |
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Re: RL125 won't start
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On Aug 27, 2024, at 4:42?PM, Jim Fleming via groups.io <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
? Hi, Imran.? Here are photos of the electrical panel, autostart box, and control?panel.? The capacitors are located behind the control panel and seemingly must be accessed from above by removing the entire top of the machine.? I have not done that because I am reluctant to handle these 80 microfarad units because I don't have insulated tools and protective gear and a mistake can potentially induce atrial fibrillation.? No bulging or leaking is apparent in the one unit I can partially see.
The Felder Rep apparently concluded that the machine is receiving power (he even thought some readings were too high) but had not confirmed that the switches or relays (?) were functioning?properly. At?this point, I am waiting for a quote for a site visit from Felder.? Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. Thanks. Jim Fleming 925-683-1002 |
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Re: RL125 won't start
Hi, Imran.? Here are photos of the electrical panel, autostart box, and control?panel.? The capacitors are located behind the control panel and seemingly must be accessed from above by removing the entire top of the machine.? I have not done that because I am reluctant to handle these 80 microfarad units because I don't have insulated tools and protective gear and a mistake can potentially induce atrial fibrillation.? No bulging or leaking is apparent in the one unit I can partially see. The Felder Rep apparently concluded that the machine is receiving power (he even thought some readings were too high) but had not confirmed that the switches or relays (?) were functioning?properly. At?this point, I am waiting for a quote for a site visit from Felder.? Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. Thanks. Jim Fleming 925-683-1002 |
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Re: RL125 won't start
Hi, verify that you really do have 240 volts at the machine.
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Check that the overload relay attached to the run contactor has not tripped (push the little reset button on it with the main switch turned off).
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PM me with your email address if you want more help please
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Regards, Rod. |
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Re: RL125 won't start
I talked to a Felder Service Rep today.? The capacitors, it seems, can only be accessed by removing the entire top of the RL.? A simple access panel would have made more sense to me, but I am not an expert.?? I could peek at one side of one capacitor.? It did not seem to be leaking or bulging.? The rep walked me through a number of voltage tests, a very confusing process in my?opinion, but not a capacitor test which I would have thought was the most likely cause of failure to start.? A capacitor test can be done from the contact points within the existing access panel but would have required de-energizing the caps. I was reluctant to try that, especially standing on a ladder with the phone in one hand and getting guidance from a rep whose schematics did not seem to match up with mine.? The rep seemed to be more interested in the relays and wanted me to clean all the contacts.? I am not sure what that would entail and I had a lot of trouble following this man's directions, so I am getting a quote for a rep to come down here (one hour from Sacramento) and fix the problem on-site.? I may also seek a local source of capacitor expertise. Anyway, thanks for help.? Fortunately, I have secondary devices for dust collection and air filtration which I may have to rely on for a while. ? ? ?Jim ? ?? James H. Fleming 925-683-1002 |
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Re: RL125 won't start
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Jim, Pictures of the setup, electrical connections will help immensely. Typically 240V will go to the control box. The box then provides the 240 to the RL. It could be something wrong with the box or RL. First step is to provide known good voltage to the RL, bypassing the autostart completely, and see what happens Imran Malik On Aug 26, 2024, at 9:45?AM, Jim Fleming via groups.io <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
? Imran, the automatic start is a Felder device which is not separately powered.? It consists of current detecting rings which detect current flowing to individual tool machines.? This signal is transmitted by wire to a box wired to the RL125.? If the RL is in auto mode, it should shortly after the triggering device. My current test was at the outlet used by the RL.? It is a 240 outlet.? I cannot tell which port I should measuring.? Also, I question why one outlet in the entire shop would fail.? Could that be bad breaker which would definitely cause me to call an electrician? If I had a 240 V extension cord with a compatible plug, I would try another outlet.? I could possibly move the RL closer but I would have to rewire the plug. On Sun, Aug 25, 2024, 6:20?PM James Fleming <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
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Re: RL125 won't start
Imran, the automatic start is a Felder device which is not separately powered.? It consists of current detecting rings which detect current flowing to individual tool machines.? This signal is transmitted by wire to a box wired to the RL125.? If the RL is in auto mode, it should shortly after the triggering device. My current test was at the outlet used by the RL.? It is a 240 outlet.? I cannot tell which port I should measuring.? Also, I question why one outlet in the entire shop would fail.? Could that be bad breaker which would definitely cause me to call an electrician? If I had a 240 V extension cord with a compatible plug, I would try another outlet.? I could possibly move the RL closer but I would have to rewire the plug. On Sun, Aug 25, 2024, 6:20?PM James Fleming <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
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Re: RL125 won't start
Jim, ? I'm sorry I can't tell you where the bad capacitor is in your 125.? When mine blew in my 160, my son found it and replaced it.? I'm pretty sure this is the one he ordered I now have it remotely located inside my shop (the RL160 is outside the shop) so it's easier to change in the future. Dave Davies On Sun, Aug 25, 2024 at 8:20?PM Jim Fleming via <jameshfleming=[email protected]> wrote:
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Dave & Marie Davies 318-219-7868 |
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Re: RL125 won't start
I took David's question as a suggestion to open up the machine panel bearing the ominous lightening bolt (unplugging first) in hopes of finding a capacitor.? In a spaghetti of wiring, found a small ceramic thingy that looked promising but no other readily detachable/replaceable parts.?? I did find, taped to the inside of the cover plate a six page sheaf of papers which Google translate tells me is Technical Data, apparently consisting of 5 pages of wiring diagrams and a parts list. The Google Translate version of the parts list leads me to believe that my ceramic thingy is in fact a resistor and that there are in fact two "motor operating capacitors in plastic cups RPC-3 80 MF".? That sounds like it? might mean 80 micro farads which seems pretty small but I know one farad is very large.? The part number for these capacitors is 222FQ and the supplier is IVD.?? I found the page of the wiring diagram bearing those part numbers.? It seems to depict the control panel section of the machine with the pair of 222FQs floating in two disconnected boxes. That section of the machine does not seem to have a convenient access panel which I think is a bit typical of Felder design. So now I am stumped again as to where I might find these capacitors and, if found, safely discharge and test them with my Multimeter.? Any suggestions will be welcome. Thanks in advance. Jim Fleming |
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Re: RL125 won't start
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Jim,The 230VAC outlet should measure ~230VAC but since you have automatic start the RL is likely plugged into that unit and that is where you are reading the low voltage. I assume you pulled the RL plug from the autostart to make the voltage measurement? If not, just disconnect the RL from the autostart then start a machine that is connected to autostart. Now measure the voltage where RL is normally plugged. If it is not near 230VAC then power down the machine and measure the incoming 230VAC to the autostart. If you measure correct voltage then the issue lies with autostart. If possible just connect RL to where the autostart is getting the 230V from and see if it would run? If it does then something is amiss with the auto start. I assume the manual On switch on RL is always in the on position. You should put it in Off position when making the connection so you don¡¯t start the RL and possibly get some arcing in the process. I am making some assumptions about your hookup since you did not provide a lot of info so I will stop here and let you respond so I can provide further assistance. As always, if you are not comfortable with electrical work then hire a professional. It is not that difficult to figure out where the problem lies. Imran Malik On Aug 25, 2024, at 5:50?PM, Jim Fleming via groups.io <jameshfleming@...> wrote:
? My RL125 single phase dust extractor, which has previously worked reliably in both manual and automatic modes, has inexplicably refused to start in either mode.? I have checked the circuit breakers without finding a problem.? I have also made a voltage check on the outlet to the best of my limited electrical ability.? It read 8 volts which seemed low to me, given the 230 volt rating on the machine plate.? The Owner's Manual indicates that there is an overload shutoff for the 3 phase version but does not mention one for a single phase machine like this.? I checked for an overloaded bin or a clogged filter but found nothing amiss.? My other Felder machine work fine but no longer automatically start the RL125.
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Since this was a weekend discovery, I have not called Felder Service yet.? I am hoping that I have overlooked a simple fix which some one of this group can quickly point out.? It wouldn't be the first time.
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Thanks in advance
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Jim Fleming?
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RL125 won't start
My RL125 single phase dust extractor, which has previously worked reliably in both manual and automatic modes, has inexplicably refused to start in either mode.? I have checked the circuit breakers without finding a problem.? I have also made a voltage check on the outlet to the best of my limited electrical ability.? It read 8 volts which seemed low to me, given the 230 volt rating on the machine plate.? The Owner's Manual indicates that there is an overload shutoff for the 3 phase version but does not mention one for a single phase machine like this.? I checked for an overloaded bin or a clogged filter but found nothing amiss.? My other Felder machine work fine but no longer automatically start the RL125.
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Since this was a weekend discovery, I have not called Felder Service yet.? I am hoping that I have overlooked a simple fix which some one of this group can quickly point out.? It wouldn't be the first time.
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Thanks in advance
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Jim Fleming? |
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Re: Height of the planer table for an A3?
Yes, for the planer.? I measured.? With it set to plane to an inch. because that is what I was actually doing when I read your original post.? Since the planer table descends to accommodate thicker boards, it would be less than that planing very thick boards.? I have hardly ever had occasion to use anything larger than 8/4.? For a 1" thick piece of lumber, the table for the planer is at 31" from the floor.? Again, my A3 lives on a mobile base which adds less than an inch overall to the height.? Jeff On Sun, Aug 25, 2024 at 2:31?PM jim.martin via <jim.martin=[email protected]> wrote:
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imran
Jim Fleming
rodsheridan
Jeff