Re: US source for window scantlings
John, at that thickness no need for laminated material. As Mac says good quality material preferably vertical or rift grain should work. In your area you should be able to source VG fir.
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KF700SP - Spindle Moulder Training
Hi everyone, a question for the European's (inc UK), does anyone have any recommendations for a training company to provide a specific hands on training for this machine and in general spindle safety set-up, calibration and use?. Either in UK, Ireland or France?.
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I have recently purchased this machine form FELDER in France, which included a power feed - used machine 2022 model, and keen to exploit more of the spindle tooling and its advantages, but have very limited training and use.
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Thanks
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Colum
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Re: US source for window scantlings
I would look for vertical grain or bias sawn Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 6, 2024, at 1:57?PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?John, Bingaman and Son in PA supply scantlings to Europe. Primarily White oak for the Euro market but they will do other species. Jasco, north of you in Canada make scantlings in VG Fir and Hemlock.
For small quantities you will find it’s pricy if freight is considered. If paint grade you might want to see if Accoya is available in your area.
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Re: US source for window scantlings
John, Bingaman and Son in PA supply scantlings to Europe. Primarily White oak for the Euro market but they will do other species. Jasco, north of you in Canada make scantlings in VG Fir and Hemlock.
For small quantities you will find it’s pricy if freight is considered. If paint grade you might want to see if Accoya is available in your area.
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Re: US source for window scantlings
John, that’s very small profile should be easy to come up with. I can’t imagine that most lumberyards don’t have inch eights by whatever pine Hemlock, fur. We’re all the different mahogany species. Any decent lumberyard carries Ponderosa pine and an inch and an eighth for session Storm doors Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 6, 2024, at 1:36?PM, John Stevenson via groups.io <jmsxray@...> wrote:
? The bottom rail is the largest cross section, about 30x80mm, the windows are all about 125cm tall. A quick internet search reveals numerous suppliers in Europe, none that I could find in the US. I guess I could make them as the original were made, but was hoping to find material that was dimensionally more stable. They are a very simplistic design that should be relatively easy to replicate.
Size? Designing and building for 50 years ? I am interested in making some replacement windows for our 1930's stone cottage. The current windows are simple pine frames that are too warped to repair. Does anyone have a source in the US for laminated window scantlings?
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Re: US source for window scantlings
The bottom rail is the largest cross section, about 30x80mm, the windows are all about 125cm tall. A quick internet search reveals numerous suppliers in Europe, none that I could find in the US. I guess I could make them as the original were made, but was hoping to find material that was dimensionally more stable. They are a very simplistic design that should be relatively easy to replicate.
Size? Designing and building for 50 years ? I am interested in making some replacement windows for our 1930's stone cottage. The current windows are simple pine frames that are too warped to repair. Does anyone have a source in the US for laminated window scantlings?
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Re: US source for window scantlings
Size? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 6, 2024, at 11:18?AM, John Stevenson via groups.io <jmsxray@...> wrote:
? I am interested in making some replacement windows for our 1930's stone cottage. The current windows are simple pine frames that are too warped to repair. Does anyone have a source in the US for laminated window scantlings?
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US source for window scantlings
I am interested in making some replacement windows for our 1930's stone cottage. The current windows are simple pine frames that are too warped to repair. Does anyone have a source in the US for laminated window scantlings?
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Re: Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
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I am flying to IWF on Wednesday and will be at the show Thursday & Friday.
Is there anything special worth checking?
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Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
Not diamond coating, they are industrial diamond teeth.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, August 2, 2024 at 07:16:25 PM MST, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Bigger blade lower rpm , less teeth give larger gullet easier for chips to escape to dust collection and most important keep blade cool . Can’t imagine the diamond coating is good for nateral wood , snake oil if you ask me I’ll use my diamond for cleaning grinder wheels and sharpening carbide. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
On Jul 31, 2024, at 3:38?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it’s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote: I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
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Re: Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
Excellent work! If your up for making a few more I'll buy some off of you! I didn't have any machining equipment yet.
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Improvements to Kreg Bench Clamp
I was tooling up a new-to-me BF6 this past spring and nearly made the mistake of buying the Felder eccentric clamp. Fortunately I read reviews on here before I pulled the trigger, and based on past discussion I opted to buy two of the Kreg 6" self-adjusting bench clamps instead.
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They were better than nothing, but left me frustrated in two ways:
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(1) The 'foot' of the clamp was almost the same size as my T-slot and kept trying to align itself along the T-slot whenever the clamp was positioned within ~15° of parallel to the slot. When it did this, the little plastic sole that protects the table from the steel body of the clamp would fit completely inside the slot, leaving the clamp to scratch/dent the soft anodized aluminum table of my machine.
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(2) The gray clamping pad itself—though made of UHMW polyethylene, a material known to be relatively slippery—still caused the part being clamped to slide around on the table as the clamp tightened, making it hard to create accurate setups. My perfect clamp pad would be very low-friction to avoid this behavior, relying instead on the friction between table and workpiece to keep the wood where I want it.
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I fixed these problems by modifying my clamps:
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(1) I peeled off the plastic sole and machined a larger brass foot that can span the T-slot in any orientation. I drilled and tapped an additional hole into the clamp body to bolt the brass pad on. The brass is softer than the anodized surface of the aluminum table and is unlikely to scratch the anodizing on its own during normal use. Four months in my table still looks great with no signs of marring.
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(2) I've had a little piece of Teflon in my stock drawer for years and it was just the right size to make some super-slippery clamping pads. Again I drilled and tapped the clamp to attach the pads and left the screw heads counterbored deep below the surface of the pad in case I accidentally cut into the pad in the future. These pads almost always slip on the wood before the wood slips on the table. The pads ended up about 14mm tall and have straight sides. I have found these very useful on the shaper, where I can use the pair of clamps as a quick-and-dirty outboard fence of sorts, or to help prevent long workpieces from wandering too much as the feeder starts to grip the workpiece.
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I also made some special T-nuts to allow the clamps to drop right in. I believe I stole that idea from a member here. I made six of them so that there's usually one already close to where I need it when building a setup.? I drilled a hole down the centerline of the grub screws that keep them in place in the T-slot and pressed in some little brass bits to make them non-marring so as to protect the bottom of the T-slot too. Also replaced stock grub screws on the factory T-nuts while I was at it.?
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Might be a nice little weekend project for anybody else who has machine tools at home.
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I have this cheap delta drill. I use for secondary operations for a few items and I like to have x y movement.
Always throwing down the line holes, so I came up with a simple solution.
Yeah, it’s mostly for metalwork.
2 ground welding clamps vise mounted to sub plate and mag spaced to work or float.
not like my thompson xy tables but works on the cheep
mac,,
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Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I second using grout floats as they are perfect for the job...I use the Goldblatt grout floats for epoxy.
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Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I went to the plaster dept. in the big box store and bought a couple of plasterers floats. They are inexpensive and last much longer the stuff sold to woodworkers.
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Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
This material works well. Unfortunately, I forgot what it is. Maybe somebody recognizes it. 
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Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I took the lazy route. Just attached sandpaper with contact cement to the old foam on my push block.
Sal
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Re: Replace or resurface jointer push blocks
I keep a resin bag at jointer . Designing and building for 50 years
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On Aug 2, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Rich M. via groups.io <rmarkiewicz@...> wrote:
? Another vote for MicroJig push blocks.? They're great.?
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Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
Bigger blade lower rpm , less teeth give larger gullet easier for chips to escape to dust collection and most important keep blade cool . Can’t imagine the diamond coating is good for nateral wood , snake oil if you ask me I’ll use my diamond for cleaning grinder wheels and sharpening carbide. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 3:38?PM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it’s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote: I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
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Colum
Leemstradamus
Mike