|
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Just use one blade and raise/lower it accordingly. Don't need to spend the money on a dado set for one project.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:50:01 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian. That is an option and if I go that route, I would like to build a tenoning hood to make it safe. Since Forrest 12¡± dado king is ~$700, I thought I ask what others are doing.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:43?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? Largest I've done on the saw was a back bevel on a table top using a 12" blade on the shaper spindle giving me right at about 4" of depth. It's scary as hell given you can't run it in any sort of guard. If you have a 350mm blade and want to try... you can get it done. I think the safer, if more work route, is the bandsaw and clean up the slot on the bottom.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:21:53 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian. Bandsaw is definitely an option. I am trying to find out if anyone is doing this on shaper or saw. If so, how?
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:07?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:02:54 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Thanks Brian. That is an option and if I go that route, I would like to build a tenoning hood to make it safe. Since Forrest 12¡± dado king is ~$700, I thought I ask what others are doing.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:43?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? Largest I've done on the saw was a back bevel on a table top using a 12" blade on the shaper spindle giving me right at about 4" of depth. It's scary as hell given you can't run it in any sort of guard. If you have a 350mm blade and want to try... you can get it done. I think the safer, if more work route, is the bandsaw and clean up the slot on the bottom.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:21:53 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian. Bandsaw is definitely an option. I am trying to find out if anyone is doing this on shaper or saw. If so, how?
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:07?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:02:54 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Largest I've done on the saw was a back bevel on a table top using a 12" blade on the shaper spindle giving me right at about 4" of depth. It's scary as hell given you can't run it in any sort of guard. If you have a 350mm blade and want to try... you can get it done. I think the safer, if more work route, is the bandsaw and clean up the slot on the bottom.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:21:53 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian. Bandsaw is definitely an option. I am trying to find out if anyone is doing this on shaper or saw. If so, how?
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:07?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:02:54 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Thanks Brian. Bandsaw is definitely an option. I am trying to find out if anyone is doing this on shaper or saw. If so, how?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 6:07?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:02:54 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Bandsaw... you can slot as deep as you would like. Cut both sides and the flatten out the bottom of the slot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 03:02:54 PM MST, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Hi Brett,
I assume you have more the 4¡± capability on the saw. Do you slot that high on the saw?
I am trying to figure out if I am giving up on this option too quickly, after a few tries. I believe the blade is sharp but I could try it again with a sharpened blade.
I wish I could find a 350 mm slotting blade.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 5:29?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach. On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
What type of knife system is on that cutterhead? ? David Best - via mobile phone?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 2:34?PM, jeff via groups.io <jeff@...> wrote:
? You can run the planer with the jointer tables down, or if you're doing a lot of planing you can flip them up, put the cover on, and do your planing. Then remove cover and put tables back down when done.
|
You can run the planer with the jointer tables down, or if you're doing a lot of planing you can flip them up, put the cover on, and do your planing. Then remove cover and put tables back down when done.
|
Bandsaw and chisel or sanding block to achieve finished edges where circular blades can't reach.
On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 12:46?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut. On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via <mikelis.vindavs= [email protected]> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Is the planer cover in the 4th image a separate piece that has to be put on and removed to store? Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:17?PM, jeff via groups.io <jeff@...> wrote:
? - Model AD515
- 2018
- 114 hours on the meter
- 515mm (20") cutter head
- 8' long tables
- 220V
- 3PH
- Tables do not need to be lifted to use the planer
- This machine is basically brand new and pleasure to use
Asking $29,000 located in Wheat Ridge, CO
<hofmann1.jpg> <hofmann2.jpg> <hofmann3.jpg> <hofmann4.jpg>
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Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
I suspect most of the problems people are seeing with this blade have to do with runout. You need to double check the runout of the saw blade flange and look for any burrs or dings. Then install the blade and double check the runout of the blade itself. It won't matter how high tech the diamond inserts are if the blade wobbles, and that's most likely where the rough surfaces are coming from.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 01:38:12 PM MST, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it¡¯s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote:
I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
|
Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
This has been my experience as well. But test the blade as soon as you get it and send it back if it¡¯s leaving saw marks. Felder includes this instruction in the saw package.? On Wed, Jul 31, 2024 at 4:28?PM Richard Csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia= [email protected]> wrote:
I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
|
Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
I have the AKE version and it cuts super smooth with 4500rpm on my K945s. The funny thing what i've noticed is I've done a cut what may have been a little too much for this blade (8cm thick european oak) and since then the sound changed a bit and some whiny sound got introduced but man it leave a surface like after sanding on end grain. Its worth every penny in my view. I've got it from a german reseller what was even cheaper then sautershop. The important part is to pick up the right riving knife for it!
|
Jason, possibly a little newer according to this link.
Patrick, the saw in my picture is in the Gutmann cladding factory in Germany. I think the Panhans short stroke slider pretty rare over here. Steve Smith owns one but have not seen any others. A guy on the east coast was selling Panhans for a few years but never had the presence Martin had here.
I think they are better in functionality than the T17 but also a newer vintage.
|
Like-new Omec 750CN dovetail machine. 20" capacity with CNC control for incredible precision and control-ability. Cut traditional dovetails, box joints, sliding French dovetails, etc. at the spacing you desire.
Asking $29,000 located in Wheat Ridge, CO
|
- Model AD515
- 2018
- 114 hours on the meter
- 515mm (20") cutter head
- 8' long tables
- 220V
- 3PH
- Tables do not need to be lifted to use the planer
- This machine is basically brand new and pleasure to use
Asking $29,000 located in Wheat Ridge, CO
|
??Hi Mikelis,
Can¡¯t take credit for the design, following caught my eye:
I should have added that while I can get ~4¡± cut (never tested it) on KF700 with 300-315 mm blade, I only get 3.3¡± on K975. KF700 is now configured as a shaper so this is putting me at a disadvantage. Therefore, Felder slotting blade does not get me to 4¡± depth of cut.
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On Jul 31, 2024, at 1:23?PM, Mi?elis Vindavs via groups.io <mikelis.vindavs@...> wrote: ? That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
|
That looks like a cool design for the stepstool.
Not sure if this helps any, but Felder makes a slotting/grooving blade in two sizes - 230x4 and 300x5 (03.0.030). It would still require multiple passes but perhaps fewer than the rip blade, depending on how wide yours is.?
On Wed, 31 Jul 2024 at 19:49, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
|
I came across a step stool design that requires ~4¡± deep slots. I know there are other ways to achieve the look of an angled bridle joint but these methods require more work. Here is what I would like to build. 3 pieces that make each side of the frame are 4¡± wide.
Here is a prototype with just under 3¡± of slotting capability. Wood is just pine construction lumber.
I know I could have done a few things to improve the proportions but this exercise has brought up the question about slotting capabilities.
I tried the 4¡± deep angle slot on the table saw (350 mm, IIRC 28 tooth rip blade) but it was a slow process. I imagine it would be even slower in hard wood. This is where I decided to switch to shaper which reduced my slotting capability to just under 3¡±. For the slot (for stretcher) in the upper part of the legs I rough cut on bandsaw and then cleaned up on shaper.
All this to ask the question, what slotting capabilities do you guys have? At what point do you start thinking of alternative methods? I do not want to add a machine but I could increase my capability with a tenoning hood. If I go this route, I would like to build one that accommodates a 12¡± dado. BTW, Whitehill makes a 300 mm adj groover but it is over $1K.
Thoughts?
|
imran
David P. Best