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Re: Floor update for k945s [email protected] All Messages By This Member #135963 ??? I will agree with John that making a 50mm slab of concrete is not really all that easy if you've never done it before. However, there are chemical additives easily available online to add to concrete and formulas that will make very high psi concrete easily. Water reducer, extra cement and the proper fiber are your friends in this case definitely.? Mixing might be somewhat of a problem depending on how much you need. Having said that, I think I might consider using flat steel bar under the feet. something like 3" or 4" x 3/8" or even 1/2"? thick on top of your existing flooring.? If there are 4 legs then two bars the distance of the feet plus 2 to 4 inches more would seem like enough to support the load. This is if you're existing floor is plywood or something fairly level now. If the flooring is boards over sleepers then you could of course plane down the flooring so that the steel sits fairly flat.? I guess you don't say or know what the spacing of the sleepers is under the flooring. If it's more than 16" then I would use 1/2" (13 mm)? thick steel. I am by no means a structural engineer, but I'm pretty sure that 13 mm thick bar would handle very heavy loads. If your flooring is not very stable now, you could cut it out down to the concrete and use pressure treated wood to build it up solid to the steel. And if you're existing concrete is think enough, the steel would not be necessary as 50 mm of wood is pretty stiff in itself.? Tom Ruth.
Re: Floor update for k945s Brett Wissel All Messages By This Member #135962 Super heavy equipment often have steel pads that are placed under the adjustable feet to distribute pressure across broader area. The items you propose are light in point loads by comparison. I'd think you be fine with steel foot cups on the smaller side....1 picture show a foot that's loaded with 1250kgs on 3mm thick rectangular pad, other photo is a foot loaded with 800kg and thicker 20mm round foot plate. I keep an ad941 with softwood door shim boards for feet and a ks700sp with oak blocks? to shom a low spot on floor and never a complaint. Much easier to shim over the load on a wood floor than cut up a nice coniuous floor and pouring pads that will one say limit your options. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Sat, Apr 20, 2024, 10:13?AM mac campshure via <mac512002=[email protected]> wrote: I want set a buss 40 inch planer that was about 7 ft.? and at the time I owned a building that used to be a creamery so the floor wasn’t exactly perfect and so I would make angle steel iron frames oversize of the machine then grind them so that they sat on the floor flush and then grouted in with a stiff, hard concrete. I’ve done that a few times one for a large Mattson drop bed molder also that probably was 12 to 15 feet long and 6 feet wide and the same scenario so that worked very good . Mac,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330?cell airtightclamps@... Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 20, 2024, at 9:59?AM, richard.csizmazia via <richard.csizmazia=[email protected]> wrote: ?this was indeed my first idea to cut out the old floor and replace it with 2 or 3 sheets of plywood and put some steel sheets under the legs so it would be stable, but since the price on concrete is so cheep I thought I would ask if its as simple as mix / pour / happy, but based on John's response I will definitely not consider it. The other option is to put the a larger steel plate straight on the wooden floor. I think that would also be a good option since this wood is pretty solid, not this new mdf laminte sheets, but probably will end up cutting it up anyways just to see whats underneath and rebuilt it to be stronger. Thanks a lot for all the suggestions! 20240420_123710.jpg 20240420_124106.jpg 20240420_123647.jpg
Re: Floor update for k945s mac campshure All Messages By This Member #135961 开云体育 I want set a buss 40 inch planer that was about 7 ft.? and at the time I owned a building that used to be a creamery so the floor wasn’t exactly perfect and so I would make angle steel iron frames oversize of the machine then grind them so that they sat on the floor flush and then grouted in with a stiff, hard concrete. I’ve done that a few times one for a large Mattson drop bed molder also that probably was 12 to 15 feet long and 6 feet wide and the same scenario so that worked very good . Mac,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330?cell airtightclamps@... Designing and building for 50 years toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Apr 20, 2024, at 9:59?AM, richard.csizmazia via groups.io <richard.csizmazia@...> wrote: ?this was indeed my first idea to cut out the old floor and replace it with 2 or 3 sheets of plywood and put some steel sheets under the legs so it would be stable, but since the price on concrete is so cheep I thought I would ask if its as simple as mix / pour / happy, but based on John's response I will definitely not consider it. The other option is to put the a larger steel plate straight on the wooden floor. I think that would also be a good option since this wood is pretty solid, not this new mdf laminte sheets, but probably will end up cutting it up anyways just to see whats underneath and rebuilt it to be stronger. Thanks a lot for all the suggestions!
Re: Floor update for k945s Richard Csizmazia All Messages By This Member #135960 this was indeed my first idea to cut out the old floor and replace it with 2 or 3 sheets of plywood and put some steel sheets under the legs so it would be stable, but since the price on concrete is so cheep I thought I would ask if its as simple as mix / pour / happy, but based on John's response I will definitely not consider it. The other option is to put the a larger steel plate straight on the wooden floor. I think that would also be a good option since this wood is pretty solid, not this new mdf laminte sheets, but probably will end up cutting it up anyways just to see whats underneath and rebuilt it to be stronger. Thanks a lot for all the suggestions!
Re: Exterior paint Andy All Messages By This Member #135959 I’ve used zinc based paint for exterior products. Works great. Dry time is longer. Color stays well. I like it, but customers find it expensive.? It’s got a short pot time. If you use an airless sprayer mix the hell out of it, have an agitator and stainless steel pressure tank and work in small batches.? On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 10:25?AM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways=[email protected]> wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Mac, no personal experience.......some say drying is a problem, so do some research. On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 at 16:06, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via <airtightclamps=[email protected]> wrote: Greetings; anyone have experience with? thanks mac,,, -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
Re: Exterior paint jontathan samways All Messages By This Member #135958 Mac, no personal experience.......some say drying is a problem, so do some research. On Sat, 20 Apr 2024 at 16:06, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via <airtightclamps=[email protected]> wrote: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Greetings; anyone have experience with? thanks mac,,, -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
Exterior paint Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression All Messages By This Member #135957 Greetings; anyone have experience with? thanks mac,,,
Re: Floor update for k945s Jacques Gagnon All Messages By This Member #135956 Richard, Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on your acquisitions - nice machines! While I do not know whether you need to reinforce the current flooring to accommodate your saw, I understand how your concrete pad would give you peace of mind. Have you considered an approach whereby you would build the pad with 50mm lumber sitting directly on your concrete floor? This might be easier to do than handling the concrete job and, as an added bonus, would provide you with an excellent opportunity to put your AD941 to work. ? Just a thought. Jacques
Re: Floor update for k945s John Hinman All Messages By This Member #135955 How thick is the existing concrete slab, and in what condition is it? You could use a masonry drill bit to probe the floor. Depending on the subgrade stiffness your current slab may be sufficient. Casting a small thin overlay is difficult for inexperienced people, and not easy for professionals. There are three things that are necessary: making high-quality concrete, which is difficult for small quantities; preparing the surface to bond the new concrete to the old material; and finishing and curing the concrete properly. Fail any of those three and your new tool will sit on a 50-mm layer of rubble that sits on the old concrete. If your concrete slab is more than 75-mm thick, add adjustable feet to your machine and put it on the wood floor. If the slab cracks enough to settle the machine you can correct it. Abmore conservative approach is to have a steel fabricator make a 150-mm square by 50-mm thick steel plate for each machine foot and set each plate on the concrete. If the concrete is not level, bed the plates in epoxy to make them level. You will still need leveling feet for the machine. I have a similar issue coming up this fall when my new Kappa 450X show up. My slab is about 4” thick with no wood floor. I will not modify the slab unless I have a problem with the old slab. For what it is worth, I have designed acres upon acres of concrete overlays on concrete slabs as a structural engineer - mostly bridge decks, but also industrial floors. -- John Hinman Boise ID USA K700S and A941
Re: Eccentric clamp alternatives? Bram Baert All Messages By This Member #135954 Hi, I 'm just going to pick back up the topic on the Felder 400-108 eccentric clamp. If I had known what I know today I probably wouldn't buy it again. However it does have it use when you want to clamp something over your cross-cut fence.Since I starting experimenting with some angled blocks of wood to redirect the force vector towards the fence I've stating to use it more and more. Today I gotten around to turn the results of my experiments into a 3D model (). It greatly simplifies setting up the clamp since you can use the slope of the block to dial in the desired force after initial height adjustment (just dropping down the clamp onto the block while it is in its closed position). When using moderate pressure it also no longer pushes the work piece away from the fence FYI for clamping things for parallel cutting, I never use the eccentric clamp but resort to similar things I cobbled together like in the Hold downs topic /g/felderownersgroup/topic/105185349 Regards Bram
Re: Cleaning rust on cast iron Colum All Messages By This Member #135953 Thanks Imran, that’s good to know. Will try and track it down here . Have a great weekend. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Sat 20 Apr 2024 at 13:44, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote: Hi Colum, WD40 makes a silicone lubricant but the multiuse WD40 does not contain silicone. Product available to you in UAE might be different.

Imran Malik

On Apr 20, 2024, at 3:56?AM, Colum via <colum=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi all,?

I use Naphtha and Scot’s brite, with 400g sandpaper for difficult areas and then seal with Bostic GlideCoate Table and Surface Sealer.

Make sure area is well ventilated. All done by hand but will try an orbital sander after.

I would be worried about WD 40 silicone migrating off the steel onto wood later. It will impact your finishing, especially if you are using oils like me as I don’t have spray gear.

I have tried administers blade cleaner and machine wax with no real success.

I am in a high humid and hot environment and need to do this every 2-3 months as I get a lot of flash rusting even from hand prints once the sealer wears down.

Might be a bit old school but I struggle to get anything else by way of chemicals into UAE.

I try not to mix the Bostic with other glide coat solutions like Wurth as they then to react differently, so stick to one sealer and clear regularly with Naphtha.

Hope that adds some thoughts to the chat for you.

Cheers

Colum

On Fri 19 Apr 2024 at 20:24, pierre.bourassa via <pierre.bourassa=[email protected]> wrote:

I am processing a large number of hemlock boards to finish the exterior wall of my workshop. The wood has just been milled and is green and wet. I was car ful with the planer and the saw on my CF741 to clean everything after the process. However when it came to the Shaper I left the guard in place overnight after processing 80 boards and continued the next day. Then I removed it to clean the dust that was not collected and discovered a large black patch on the table.?

i tried to remove it with my tool cleaner spray as well as WD40 and the white Scotchbriite pad. I removed lots of the stain but quite a bit remains

Any suggestion to get it back to normal?

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