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Re: Veneering: Substrate & Supplier
I edge the panel before veneer with hardwood. Usually 3/16¡±-1/4¡± thick. If a very special project I miter the corners of the edging. I then veneer. This way the edges are super durable and will never peel or chip like wood edge banding can.?
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On Feb 2, 2024, at 8:40?AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hi Andy,
When you use the MDF core ply for doors, what is your edge-banding method?
I recently had three CVG Fir doors that I built, 18¡±x42¡±, and one of the plywood doors decided to warp on me a bit. ?The edge treatment was just the thin Fir edge-banding.?
Thx,
Wade
On Feb 2, 2024, at 5:47 AM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? I just finished a job using slip matched rift white oak in 3/4 inch sheets. Luckily I found a supplier locally who carried sheets of it. They also had MDF core sheet that I used for the doors. Totally flat.? It was also matching grain on both sides.?
Saved me a ton of time getting it already on a sheet.? I think I paid 220$ a sheet. Right now just the veneer is 90$ at my veneer supplier. Never mind the substrate, balancing sheet(which would be another 90$ for matching grain) glue and time.?
If you are in the northeast check out Atlantic plywood. But I¡¯m sure there are other options out there.?
On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:26?AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Hi Storm, I did a rift white oak slab door and drawer front kitchen a few years ago. It's a really beautiful look.I ordered 10 sequence matched sheets of Europly from Columbia. The edges were not banded, but finished the same as the front and back. Saved a lot of work, but don't go this route. Lots of warping of the doors? Columbia will tell you never use any plywood for doors, MDF only. I'd follow that recommendation now after that painful experience.?
I'd encourage you to buy your veneer raw from Certainly Wood. They are a great company. Super nice helpful people, great selection and good pricing too. I don't like paper backed veneers, you always see that line unless you edge band veneering-but why would you do that? You have ultimate control over your matching and yield when doing it in house. Use good quality MDF like Ranger or Plum Creek, not the crap at Menards or Home Depot. Experience tells me that your 5/8" wide solid edge banding is too wide. It will telegraph through the face over time. Mine is never wider than 1/4" and I've had good success with that. I like the Unibond One and use it almost exclusively now, with the exception of the times when 800 is needed for open time or strength.
If you want to look at buying matched sheets pre veneered, Saunders Wood Specialties in Park Falls, WI is a great resource. Talk to Amy Smith. They do lots of work for me and it is top notch and not cost prohibitive.
Feel free to contact me directly if you want to talk in more detail.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
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Re: Veneering: Substrate & Supplier
For this job I actually used hardwood for a micro shaker look on the doors.? I¡¯ll look back in my photos to see if I have a picture of that finished detail. The edges are quartersawn white oak about 30mm. Then I used my Lamello to connect them to the panel.?
I¡¯ve had luck however using traditional edge banding applied with a Festool conturo as well.?
Hi Andy,
When you use the MDF core ply for doors, what is your edge-banding method?
I recently had three CVG Fir doors that I built, 18¡±x42¡±, and one of the plywood doors decided to warp on me a bit.? The edge treatment was just the thin Fir edge-banding.?
Thx,
Wade
? I just finished a job using slip matched rift white oak in 3/4 inch sheets. Luckily I found a supplier locally who carried sheets of it. They also had MDF core sheet that I used for the doors. Totally flat.? It was also matching grain on both sides.?
Saved me a ton of time getting it already on a sheet.? I think I paid 220$ a sheet. Right now just the veneer is 90$ at my veneer supplier. Never mind the substrate, balancing sheet(which would be another 90$ for matching grain) glue and time.?
If you are in the northeast check out Atlantic plywood. But I¡¯m sure there are other options out there.?
On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:26?AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Hi Storm, I did a rift white oak slab door and drawer front kitchen a few years ago. It's a really beautiful look.I ordered 10 sequence matched sheets of Europly from Columbia. The edges were not banded, but finished the same as the front and back. Saved a lot of work, but don't go this route. Lots of warping of the doors? Columbia will tell you never use any plywood for doors, MDF only. I'd follow that recommendation now after that painful experience.?
I'd encourage you to buy your veneer raw from Certainly Wood. They are a great company. Super nice helpful people, great selection and good pricing too. I don't like paper backed veneers, you always see that line unless you edge band veneering-but why would you do that? You have ultimate control over your matching and yield when doing it in house. Use good quality MDF like Ranger or Plum Creek, not the crap at Menards or Home Depot. Experience tells me that your 5/8" wide solid edge banding is too wide. It will telegraph through the face over time. Mine is never wider than 1/4" and I've had good success with that. I like the Unibond One and use it almost exclusively now, with the exception of the times when 800 is needed for open time or strength.
If you want to look at buying matched sheets pre veneered, Saunders Wood Specialties in Park Falls, WI is a great resource. Talk to Amy Smith. They do lots of work for me and it is top notch and not cost prohibitive.
Feel free to contact me directly if you want to talk in more detail.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
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Re: Veneering: Substrate & Supplier
Hi Andy,
When you use the MDF core ply for doors, what is your edge-banding method?
I recently had three CVG Fir doors that I built, 18¡±x42¡±, and one of the plywood doors decided to warp on me a bit. ?The edge treatment was just the thin Fir edge-banding.?
Thx,
Wade
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On Feb 2, 2024, at 5:47 AM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? I just finished a job using slip matched rift white oak in 3/4 inch sheets. Luckily I found a supplier locally who carried sheets of it. They also had MDF core sheet that I used for the doors. Totally flat.? It was also matching grain on both sides.?
Saved me a ton of time getting it already on a sheet.? I think I paid 220$ a sheet. Right now just the veneer is 90$ at my veneer supplier. Never mind the substrate, balancing sheet(which would be another 90$ for matching grain) glue and time.?
If you are in the northeast check out Atlantic plywood. But I¡¯m sure there are other options out there.?
On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:26?AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Hi Storm, I did a rift white oak slab door and drawer front kitchen a few years ago. It's a really beautiful look.I ordered 10 sequence matched sheets of Europly from Columbia. The edges were not banded, but finished the same as the front and back. Saved a lot of work, but don't go this route. Lots of warping of the doors? Columbia will tell you never use any plywood for doors, MDF only. I'd follow that recommendation now after that painful experience.?
I'd encourage you to buy your veneer raw from Certainly Wood. They are a great company. Super nice helpful people, great selection and good pricing too. I don't like paper backed veneers, you always see that line unless you edge band veneering-but why would you do that? You have ultimate control over your matching and yield when doing it in house. Use good quality MDF like Ranger or Plum Creek, not the crap at Menards or Home Depot. Experience tells me that your 5/8" wide solid edge banding is too wide. It will telegraph through the face over time. Mine is never wider than 1/4" and I've had good success with that. I like the Unibond One and use it almost exclusively now, with the exception of the times when 800 is needed for open time or strength.
If you want to look at buying matched sheets pre veneered, Saunders Wood Specialties in Park Falls, WI is a great resource. Talk to Amy Smith. They do lots of work for me and it is top notch and not cost prohibitive.
Feel free to contact me directly if you want to talk in more detail.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
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Re: Lamello Cantex for sale $2000
I have tried this - it does work but I ended up with a virtex. this stays adjusted and works well.
Has anyone tried the festool MFK router with horizontal base for edge flushing?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
--
Michael Marsico
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Re: Lamello Cantex for sale $2000
Has anyone tried the festool MFK router with horizontal base for edge flushing?  --
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Re: 40 mm rebate spindle cutter flush mount - Australia
Hi Chris, that 125x55 block won't accept the common 40mm knives you're referring to, but the smaller version (96x40mm combi) will.? It will also accept the 55mm knives (B series) that Whitehill sells.? It is the largest collection of knives.? It can also be flush mounted though they may have to make a washer for your Felder to suit.??
That said, the 125x55 block is designed to work with your machine and is infinitely more capable.? It will run the 55mm knives as well as the thicker, 6mm knives for larger projection and deeper profiles.? The only downside is waiting for knives from the UK.? Here is a pretty amature video I did some time ago comparing the two combis:??
B
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Re: Veneering: Substrate & Supplier
I just finished a job using slip matched rift white oak in 3/4 inch sheets. Luckily I found a supplier locally who carried sheets of it. They also had MDF core sheet that I used for the doors. Totally flat.? It was also matching grain on both sides.?
Saved me a ton of time getting it already on a sheet.? I think I paid 220$ a sheet. Right now just the veneer is 90$ at my veneer supplier. Never mind the substrate, balancing sheet(which would be another 90$ for matching grain) glue and time.?
If you are in the northeast check out Atlantic plywood. But I¡¯m sure there are other options out there.?
On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:26?AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Hi Storm, I did a rift white oak slab door and drawer front kitchen a few years ago. It's a really beautiful look.I ordered 10 sequence matched sheets of Europly from Columbia. The edges were not banded, but finished the same as the front and back. Saved a lot of work, but don't go this route. Lots of warping of the doors? Columbia will tell you never use any plywood for doors, MDF only. I'd follow that recommendation now after that painful experience.?
I'd encourage you to buy your veneer raw from Certainly Wood. They are a great company. Super nice helpful people, great selection and good pricing too. I don't like paper backed veneers, you always see that line unless you edge band veneering-but why would you do that? You have ultimate control over your matching and yield when doing it in house. Use good quality MDF like Ranger or Plum Creek, not the crap at Menards or Home Depot. Experience tells me that your 5/8" wide solid edge banding is too wide. It will telegraph through the face over time. Mine is never wider than 1/4" and I've had good success with that. I like the Unibond One and use it almost exclusively now, with the exception of the times when 800 is needed for open time or strength.
If you want to look at buying matched sheets pre veneered, Saunders Wood Specialties in Park Falls, WI is a great resource. Talk to Amy Smith. They do lots of work for me and it is top notch and not cost prohibitive.
Feel free to contact me directly if you want to talk in more detail.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
|
Re: Veneering: Substrate & Supplier
Hi Storm, I did a rift white oak slab door and drawer front kitchen a few years ago. It's a really beautiful look.I ordered 10 sequence matched sheets of Europly from Columbia. The edges were not banded, but finished the same as the front and back. Saved a lot of work, but don't go this route. Lots of warping of the doors? Columbia will tell you never use any plywood for doors, MDF only. I'd follow that recommendation now after that painful experience.?
I'd encourage you to buy your veneer raw from Certainly Wood. They are a great company. Super nice helpful people, great selection and good pricing too. I don't like paper backed veneers, you always see that line unless you edge band veneering-but why would you do that? You have ultimate control over your matching and yield when doing it in house. Use good quality MDF like Ranger or Plum Creek, not the crap at Menards or Home Depot. Experience tells me that your 5/8" wide solid edge banding is too wide. It will telegraph through the face over time. Mine is never wider than 1/4" and I've had good success with that. I like the Unibond One and use it almost exclusively now, with the exception of the times when 800 is needed for open time or strength.
If you want to look at buying matched sheets pre veneered, Saunders Wood Specialties in Park Falls, WI is a great resource. Talk to Amy Smith. They do lots of work for me and it is top notch and not cost prohibitive.
Feel free to contact me directly if you want to talk in more detail.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Felder K 700 S considering
Many many thanks to all of the reply¡¯s. ? This helped me a ton. ?I understand why this group is sought after for information and is a terrific resource. ?Again, thank you as you have welcomed me and offered a lot of great advice. ?
To address some of the questions¡..
I looked into getting 3 phase in my shop and yes¡.it was thousands and THOUSANDS of dollars. ?I am going to go with single phase. ??
I also agree¡.i am doing this as a hobby and a $28,000 Altendorf would be amazing but not what I need ? ?
I did look into the 5 used machines but we¡¯re located in Vegas, California, Florida. ?
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Re: Hammer slider with Ikea BROR trolley
Ours are a paint room staple? Jack Decker
Vernacular Design
518 567 2051
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On Feb 2, 2024, at 7:15?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Beam,
Good for you. Few yrs back Crazy horse dolly was very popular.
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Couple of yrs ago Michael Samarza was running a class where you could build one but he would also ship one to you. Not sure if that is still happening.
I just don¡¯t cut enough sheets to have this around taking space on shop floor.
On Feb 2, 2024, at 3:17?AM, Bram Baert <bram.baert@...> wrote:
?Hi,
Just wanted to share that I did an interesting find last week. Apparently the IKEA BROR trolley is the ideal height for assisting in cutting large sheet goods on a Hammer sliding table saw
<20240128_102051.jpg>
?
Regards
Bram
Re: Hammer slider with Ikea BROR trolley
Beam,
Good for you. Few yrs back Crazy horse dolly was very popular.
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Couple of yrs ago Michael Samarza was running a class where you could build one but he would also ship one to you. Not sure if that is still happening.
I just don¡¯t cut enough sheets to have this around taking space on shop floor.
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On Feb 2, 2024, at 3:17?AM, Bram Baert <bram.baert@...> wrote:
?Hi,
Just wanted to share that I did an interesting find last week. Apparently the IKEA BROR trolley is the ideal height for assisting in cutting large sheet goods on a Hammer sliding table saw
?
Regards
Bram
Re: 40 mm rebate spindle cutter flush mount - Australia
Hi Chris,
Have you checked with whitehill if the head will support 40 mm inserts? People here have this head, hopefully someone will chime in.
Felder 50 mm safety cutterhead supports 40 mm inserts. Once I found that out I kicked myself for not getting the larger cutterheads. However, it does not have the recessed top. | |
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On Feb 2, 2024, at 4:05?AM, Chris <Hope752@...> wrote:
?Hi there, I have raised this up already but I'm looking for a spindle rebate cutter that I can interchange cutters with.
I am a beginner when it comes to spindle molding. I am recieving a kf700sp soon and hoping? to get a 30mm bore cutter to learn on. My machine is only single phase and am wondering about the diameter of the cutter.
40mm cutters are far more common in Australia then 50mm. So hoping to accommodate this size.
I would really like a flush mount so I can cut over the top of the cutter (deep rebate).
I have been recommended this -?
However this is set up for 50mm cutters, not 40mm.?
Does anyone know a good recommendation to suit my inexperienced requirements?
Thanks chris
Re: 40 mm rebate spindle cutter flush mount - Australia
Hi Chris
When I started out I bought the CMT cutter head with replaceable knives . If you are going to feed in your boards manually, definitely get a block on with limiters. For tenons and mortises I've upgraded to?
Regards Bram
Hi there, I have raised this up already but I'm looking for a spindle rebate cutter that I can interchange cutters with.
I am a beginner when it comes to spindle molding. I am recieving a kf700sp soon and hoping? to get a 30mm bore cutter to learn on. My machine is only single phase and am wondering about the diameter of the cutter.
40mm cutters are far more common in Australia then 50mm. So hoping to accommodate this size.
I would really like a flush mount so I can cut over the top of the cutter (deep rebate).
I have been recommended this -?
However this is set up for 50mm cutters, not 40mm.?
Does anyone know a good recommendation to suit my inexperienced requirements?
Thanks chris
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40 mm rebate spindle cutter flush mount - Australia
Hi there, I have raised this up already but I'm looking for a spindle rebate cutter that I can interchange cutters with.
I am a beginner when it comes to spindle molding. I am recieving a kf700sp soon and hoping? to get a 30mm bore cutter to learn on. My machine is only single phase and am wondering about the diameter of the cutter.
40mm cutters are far more common in Australia then 50mm. So hoping to accommodate this size.
I would really like a flush mount so I can cut over the top of the cutter (deep rebate).
I have been recommended this -?
However this is set up for 50mm cutters, not 40mm.?
Does anyone know a good recommendation to suit my inexperienced requirements?
Thanks chris
|
Re: Hammer slider with Ikea BROR trolley
Hi Bram:
Ha! That¡¯s awesome! Sometimes you do need extra support, especially with thin stock.?
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
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Hi,
Just wanted to share that I did an interesting find last week. Apparently the IKEA BROR trolley is the ideal height for assisting in cutting large sheet goods on a Hammer sliding table saw
 ?
Regards
Bram
|
Hammer slider with Ikea BROR trolley
Hi, Just wanted to share that I did an interesting find last week. Apparently the IKEA BROR trolley is the ideal height for assisting in cutting large sheet goods on a Hammer sliding table saw  ? Regards Bram
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Re: Interesting Feeder for Smaller Saws and Router Table
Hey
I 'm a hobby woodworker with a Hammer C3-31 and I 've been interested?in power feeders for a while now. I was wondering if any of the more experienced users could shed their light on this kickstarter model vs the H32 model from felder . Price wise they are about the same if I include shipping and import duties to the EU.
Regards Bram? Op zo 28 jan 2024 om 16:28 schreef PK < pk@...>:
Here is a YouTube review...
PK
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Re: Sheet good recommendations
Andy, et al,
I just tripped over an interesting YouTube video that demonstrates using the Fusion 360 ¡°Configurations¡± facility (which requires a paid license to access) in conjunction with a library of 31 different cabinetry types. ?The guy even sells the library for $99 (link in the comments). ?It¡¯s worth watching and addresses directly some of the expressed concerns about assembly hardware etc. ?Here¡¯s the link - the video is really low resolution, but I think you¡¯ll get the gist of it:
I think if I were in the business of grinding out cabinets, and wanted to dedicate myself to Fusion as the design platform, this is probably the technique I would use and build a library of cabinet types with configuration option selections for all the variables. ?Worth watching IMO. ?It¡¯s only had 980 views, so make his day and watch it. ?I have not purchased his library or tried to use it, but the concepts are valid in the context of Fusion workflow.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 29, 2024, at 1:02?PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
David - you are a wealth of information, thank you for sharing.?
I¡¯ve recently decided to add a cnc machine to the shop. I have a passing knowledge of fusion in that I can make a parametric model and etc.
One of the more daunting aspects of using Fusion as my go to software for design is that I cannot seem to find a reliable library for joinery and hardware for cabinet construction. ?Mozaik, KCD and others have Blum/Salice/Lamello/Festool built right into their models.
If I¡¯m just modeling a piece of furniture, then those aspects aren¡¯t as important, to me anyway. ?But if I¡¯m batching out a kitchen or closet then I want the cnc to place pilot holes, hinge cup holes and etc, as well as cut to dimension. ?I can¡¯t figure out an extension or library that actually contains hardware and joinery. ?I saw your video on how to incorporate Blum drawer slides into Fusion, perhaps I just have to suck it up and download all of the various CAD files (if they exist)
Do you know if there is a way, within Fusion 360 to change (parametrically) the hardware based on stock thickness or stock width? ?For instance, within Mozaik if I size a cabinet up, Mozaik will scribe a hardware line for my Lamello every 300mm. ?And if the stock thickness changes, so does the relevant Blum slide¡..
Ultimately I¡¯d like to ditch Mozaik and rely on Fusion to design and produce G code for the cnc, with Fusion having a parametric model of each cabinet type (base, tall, wall etc) with the ability to change hardware and joinery options as a parameter. ?If there is indeed a way to do this, I¡¯d happy signup and pay for a class (of classes) on how to.
Andy
Hi Tim,
My YouTube channel has a section and playlist devoted to Fusion 360 and its use in woodworking applications.? You can find it listed here:
Most of the tutorials I have created thus far are more advanced and illustrate the use of components in building an assembly and using joints to create functional drawer slides, etc. ?
I am working on a new tutorial series the is geared more to the woodworker using Fusion to design cabinets and bookshelves.? For this I will be using parameter-driven design workflows. ?
All but the most simple Fusion models I develop are driven by parameters so that changes can be easily made.? When the parameters include a bunch of logic and math, I prefer to manage the parameters external to Fusion and bring them into the model with an extension called ¡°Parameter I/O¡± available from the Fusion add-on web site.? To manage a complex set of parameter I use a spreadsheet that can output the required CSV file for import into Fusion.
For cabinets and bookshelves I have developed a spreadsheet template where I fill out various aspects of the cabinet design.? This version will handle a cabinet with up to six drawers or doors, and up to 5 divider shelves between the doors/drawers.? Here is a screenshot of the basic cabinet box specification which can be enter in imperial or metric - the yellow boxes are where the specifications are entered:
<ShotiMac_1999.jpeg>
The next section of the spreadsheet specifies the layout of the drawer/shelves with the heights specified as ratios between the drawer/door heights and the spreadsheet does the calculations to fit in the cabinet box as previously specified:
<ShotiMac_2001.jpeg>
And finally there is a section where the drawer/door and shelf aspects are specified including target reveals, setbacks, drawer slides, drawer box construction details are specified:
<ShotiMac_2002.jpeg>
The spreadsheet includes extensive help and input validation and a set of buttons to generate a sample cabinet, and output the parameters for input into Fusion: <ShotiMac_2004.jpeg>
As an example, here is the parameter file generated by the above set of cabinet specifications:
<ShotiMac_2005.jpeg>
And here are some examples of how the Fusion 360 model is altered by different parameters.? This is the sample cabinet:
<ShotiMac_2006.jpeg>
Below are two cabinets that would be typical of a kitchen base cabinet, one being a bank of 4 drawers, the other having one drawer and a door below:
<ShotiMac_2010.jpeg>
<ShotiMac_2009.jpeg>
And a simple bookcase with equally spaced shelves:
<ShotiMac_2011.jpeg>
Anyway that¡¯s where I¡¯m headed with this.? Let me know if you have questions or would like to dialog about this in a DM.
Hello to all,
Very interesting thread indeed. I am also in the early planning stages of a similar cabinet project(s). I'm also considering what materials are available here in Ohio.
David I am also using F360 for the the design stage. I am trying to establish a typical left and right side parametric model to use use with all the various cabinets I plan to build. Your drawings are very interesting and I will try to study them closely...the parameters in particular. If you have these listed on any of your website project files please let me know. I would to like to compare where i am going with mine.
I will try to post my progress as I can.
Thanks to all!
Tim Pond
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Re: Lamello Cantex for sale $2000
Mac?
I went down this rabbit hole in the past, the Hebor/Hoffman has been discontinued long enough that most parts are no longer supported. If memory serves correct there was some issue with the motor supplier that ruined what many say was the best lipping planer ever. The cantex is great, but it's a different approach for sure. The Virutex seems like the closest thing to the Hebor/Hoffmann knockoff? on could get today.
-Brett
?Wade I have to lamelo a biscuit joiner and a boat patcher both over 50 years old,¡¯ Never replaced anything on them they habe clutches so if you hit a screw or such it slips and save s the cutter.? I think my Hebor /Hoffman lipper is also 50 years old . Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years On Feb 1, 2024, at 7:40?PM, Jack Decker via <vernaculardesign=[email protected]> wrote:
?Talk to Chris Hoffman at colonial saw. Still some parts Available and the carbide blades should be available indefinitely? Jack Decker
Vernacular Design
518 567 2051
?I bought replacement knives for my Cantex last year from??which is the importer for the USA.? I¡¯ve had mine for 20+ years and it is one of the most enjoyable and well built tools in my shop. ? David Best - via mobile phone? ? Hi James,
That¡¯s too bad they stopped making this.? What an awesome tool.? I wonder if parts will be hard to get if production has stopped as well?? I¡¯ve watch a few videos now and it¡¯s impressive anyways!
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Lamello Cantex was discontinued in 2018, it appears that Lamello did not sell this specialty tool a lot. It is a great tool for sure, just like other tools made by Lamello. Clearly Lamello is doing well selling Zeta P2 and its connectors.
Believe it or not, it was cheaper buying Cantex in Canada than in the USA before. It was CAD$ 1850 in 2015, I almost pulled the trigger to buy it.
There are alternative ways of trimming the hardwood edge banding. You can modify Festool MFK like Paul Marcel did?. Using this router bit?, you can trim up to 25mm wide edge banding. Of course, you do not want to remove like 5mm thick material using the router bit, but 1 or 2 mm should be just fine.
James Hi Joe Jensen,
Looks to be a nice tool to have for hardwood edge-banding.? Have you ever tested with melamine too?? Which model do you have?? Did a quick research, but can¡¯t find anyone who has them.
Thx,
Wade
On Feb 1, 2024, at 10:16 AM, Joe Jensen <joe@...> wrote:
? I put hardwood edges on all panels that I veneer and any veneered plywood. The Cantex is awesome.? On Feb 1, 2024, at 7:12?AM, Jack Decker via <vernaculardesign=[email protected]> wrote:
?As an owner of both the virutex and cantex, the adjustment mechanism on the cantex is superior. If you¡¯ve ever used a top 21 it¡¯s the same idea. The virutex is a guess and check.?
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Re: Lamello Cantex for sale $2000
The Cantex handles this easily. ?I¡¯ve used it to hardwood edge Formica tops.?
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On Feb 1, 2024, at 3:31?PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Joe,
I was thinking more along the lines of a hardwood edge applied to the melamine and then running the machine along to flush it up without marring the melamine face.
Thx,
Wade On Feb 1, 2024, at 1:59 PM, Joe Jensen <joe@...> wrote:
? As far as I know I have the same as pictured. ?Mine came in a birch box with a fence. The cutters are carbide I think. I don¡¯t use melamine. It would do the tape for melamine but it would leave a sharp 90 degree edge.?
On Feb 1, 2024, at 12:01?PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hi Joe Jensen,
Looks to be a nice tool to have for hardwood edge-banding. ?Have you ever tested with melamine too? ?Which model do you have? ?Did a quick research, but can¡¯t find anyone who has them.
Thx,
Wade
On Feb 1, 2024, at 10:16 AM, Joe Jensen <joe@...> wrote:
? I put hardwood edges on all panels that I veneer and any veneered plywood. The Cantex is awesome.? On Feb 1, 2024, at 7:12?AM, Jack Decker via groups.io <vernaculardesign@...> wrote:
?As an owner of both the virutex and cantex, the adjustment mechanism on the cantex is superior. If you¡¯ve ever used a top 21 it¡¯s the same idea. The virutex is a guess and check.?
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Joe Jensen
Larry Long Neck
Jason Holtz
Jack Decker
imran
David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best