On Jan 20, 2024, at 3:16?PM, James Heathcock via groups.io <james.heathcock@...> wrote:

That's the one, yes.?

On Sat, 20 Jan 2024, 23:15 David P. Best, <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

Is this the extension table you have?

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...

On Jan 20, 2024, at 2:38?PM, James Heathcock via <james.heathcock=[email protected]> wrote:

I have the short 500mm x 150mm support table that is fixed directly to the P channel via a clamping mechanism. My question is, could I trust this table to be square to the blade at all times if I were to mount the rear section of a fritz and franz jig to it? I currently use a shop made, oak t track bar to mount the jig to the slider T slot but due to the non-uniform dimensions of the t slot throughout its length, I'm getting sick of the play and slop. I was hoping to utilise the support table to 'fix' the jig to using a t bolt and 90 degree aluminum extrusion bracket. I figured that as the P channel is a true reference point then anything mounted to it could be trusted as being true to the blade? Is this correct?

Thanks?

James?

On Jan 20, 2024, at 2:25 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

You will find the jointer table alignment process fully documented in my Jointer Table Alignment Guide which you can download at this link:

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

On Jan 20, 2024, at 10:08?AM, dmiller823a via groups.io <dmiller823a@...> wrote:

Hi everyone - new to the FOG,
Was wondering if anyone had instructions for commissioning a Felder AD941 16" jointer/planer? Or, instructions on how to adjust the jointer and planer tables, if needed.
There was no such information included from Felder - no surprise, and I've been told it will take a month in my part of the country to have a tech come out and commission the unit.
Any information would be appreciated.

Regards,
Darrell Miller

On Jan 20, 2024, at 2:38?PM, James Heathcock via groups.io <james.heathcock@...> wrote:

I have the short 500mm x 150mm support table that is fixed directly to the P channel via a clamping mechanism. My question is, could I trust this table to be square to the blade at all times if I were to mount the rear section of a fritz and franz jig to it? I currently use a shop made, oak t track bar to mount the jig to the slider T slot but due to the non-uniform dimensions of the t slot throughout its length, I'm getting sick of the play and slop. I was hoping to utilise the support table to 'fix' the jig to using a t bolt and 90 degree aluminum extrusion bracket. I figured that as the P channel is a true reference point then anything mounted to it could be trusted as being true to the blade? Is this correct?

Thanks?

James?

On Jan 20, 2024, at 10:08?AM, dmiller823a via groups.io <dmiller823a@...> wrote:

Hi everyone - new to the FOG,
Was wondering if anyone had instructions for commissioning a Felder AD941 16" jointer/planer? Or, instructions on how to adjust the jointer and planer tables, if needed.
There was no such information included from Felder - no surprise, and I've been told it will take a month in my part of the country to have a tech come out and commission the unit.
Any information would be appreciated.

Regards,
Darrell Miller

On Jan 20, 2024, at 11:06?AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

Moving the overarm guard/dust hood out of the way requires walking around the saw and unscrewing a bolt. This is a nuisance if all that is needed is to get the guard out of the way to check a set-up.

I think some saws have a more convenient set-up. If I recall correctly David Best once described being able to pull a wire to release the arm, from the operator position.

Has anyone modified the bolt connection to make it a quick-release? Any good ideas?

The picture shows the bolt, with a Kip lever, on my saw.

<IMG_4907.jpeg>
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

On Jan 20, 2024, at 1:40?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:

?I put a few slots in the guard and couple screws, so I can remove when in the way,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

airtightclamps@...

Designing and building for 50 years

On Jan 20, 2024, at 1:30?PM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?Bill, I’m curious what the pin set-up looks like. I don’t have a pin, just a bolt that goes into the arm to hold it in place.

Someday when you are in your shop, would you please share a picture of the pin and cable set-up?

Thanks!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

On Jan 20, 2024, at 1:30?PM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?Bill, I’m curious what the pin set-up looks like. I don’t have a pin, just a bolt that goes into the arm to hold it in place.

Someday when you are in your shop, would you please share a picture of the pin and cable set-up?

Thanks!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

On Jan 20, 2024, at 14:06, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?Moving the overarm guard/dust hood out of the way requires walking around the saw and unscrewing a bolt. This is a nuisance if all that is needed is to get the guard out of the way to check a set-up.

I think some saws have a more convenient set-up. If I recall correctly David Best once described being able to pull a wire to release the arm, from the operator position.

Has anyone modified the bolt connection to make it a quick-release? Any good ideas?

The picture shows the bolt, with a Kip lever, on my saw.

<IMG_4907.jpeg>

--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

On Jan 19, 2024, at 7:06 PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:

?
Joshua Tolve
Come to the dark side of California :)

On Jan 19, 2024, at 6:03 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

?

I spent something like hour and a half in the showroom today.
I definitely know that I don’t want the shaper in the saw.?

Changing from saw to a shaper is PITA and the shaper fence is heavy.
A dedicated Felder shaper will cost ~10K compare to additional 6K I would need to invest going from K to KF model.

I agree - the difference was much less a few years ago - like $3,500. ?Yes, the 240 shaper hood is heavy, but it’s easy to tilt it forward onto a towel laid on the sliding table, and then off onto a wheeled cart such as the FAT 300. ?For me, the bigger hassle was the power feeder setup.

it is a bit BS that if I want a machine with a metric scale I need to pay extra to get a real world measurements.

For about $20, you can buy a high quality sticky-back metric or combination metric/imperial tape. ?The Felder-supplied rule is a removable aluminum strip, so you can flip it over and apply the new tape to the back side of the aluminum strip. ?Here are some examples:

https://oregonrule.com/orc/product-category/metalrulessc/fractional-metric-metalrulessc/?

A new question raise now is whether I want the saw with 800mm rip fence or 1250mm fence.
My current K3 has 800mm and I have really used the extra rip capacity, but I wonder if anyone here use the extra rip capacity??

If you do panel work you will want the ability to cut to the center of an 8-foot panel, which means you will be restricted in your saw guard choice. ?You either have to make do with the Euro saw guard that attaches to the rivving knife/splitter, or have the support post for an overhead guard positioned at the 49-inch position so a panel cut in half will clear it on the right of the blade. ?It is possible to special order a K700 with 800mm rip fence and an overhead guard post at the 1250mm position (which is what I had on my K975 and have now on my Kappa 400 xMotion), but it will mean a custom build and probably different pricing and a longer wait. ?If your panel processing needs are moderate, you can of course break down big panels with a track saw.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

On Jan 19, 2024, at 4:35?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:

?Wade you must be bummed,?

This is a machine design that is done day in and day out with very few issues the more functions built in the more can go wrong.

I have motorized spindles on different machines but would never consider not having manual function with hand wheel .

Strikes me as a risky concept.

Having limited design abilities in motion area myself ?makes it difficult for me.

Funny enough my best system was with salvaged hospital bed motors. 7.00 each if I remember I used to raise bed o n bf731’s.?

Trick is finding gear motors that are free wheeling enough to easily move by hand , easier they are typically the faster the gear ratio faster the speed .?

For me I have only found raising large planner tables up and down to be an issue .?

I have had numerous planers with power rise and fall. ?

But to raise a saw blade or shaper spindle up and down a few turns has never been an issue and don’t see what all the woop t do is about.

I know there is a group that loves the heels and whistles?

I’m in the manual camp with wood machines.

Know I would not consider my mills or lathes to not be other than total power in all axis .

But that’s a whole other ball game.

I hope my clamps have given you some joy !!

Good luck Wade.

Best mac,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

airtightclamps@...

Designing and building for 50 years

On Jan 19, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

?

Hi Andy,

I’m dead in the water. ?No manual or override available.

I’ve just had the worst luck with their service. ?This is my third issue with the machine and each time dealing with Felder Tech has been awful! ?

I’ve been lied to and misinformed by my sales person from day one and it’s been down hill ever since. ?

I’m starting to contemplate the selling of my two Felder pieces and just be done with them. ?

Thx,

Wade

On Jan 19, 2024, at 1:53 PM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:

?

All these issues with the power drive feature. On these higher end saws is there an alternate way to raise and lower the blade (ie handwheel)?? Or are they dead in the water when the power drive goes down?? I looked briefly through the manual and pictures but I don’t see a handwheel for power drive outfitted machines.?

I’m slumming it with the hammer line and stuck using a handwheel like a caveman so forgive the question if it seems obvious.?

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 4:30?PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

Hi James,

Hey I’ve never been over to Austria, but maybe, with their twisted mind set, all of the car dealer lots have their cars up on blocks. ?

* Another side note regarding absolutely horrible Felder service on my Power Drive issue for my K700S.? Saw went down on 1/4, created service ticket on 1/5, I’ve had one call regarding this issue in the last 14 days and that call entailed instructions for me to vacuum and clean out the inside of the cabinet to see if that fixes the issue of the blade not rising.? I told him it’s already been done and it’s spotless inside.?

That was on Tuesday, no word since! ?

Two weeks down and counting. ?

Thx,

Wade

On Jan 19, 2024, at 12:19?PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?

It is absurd?and ridiculous that a 10K+ saw does not come with a brand new blade. Who would buy a car without tires?

James

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 10:47?AM <bombamanwa@...> wrote:

Installation/Commissioning on a K700S is $1,395, they also like you to buy a new blade and scorer at the same time, so its there for setup.

?

Regards K1 / K2, I've personally got it on my AD941, and I love it, albeit its easy to overshoot your desired thickness, easy to resolve, but wish the incremental up was 0.1mm/push, sometimes can be a pain to get a single momentary push out of it.

For the table saw, I opted for just the Hammer-style "Digital" indicator, for normal saw operation, the digital readout for me is pretty much overkill, would only ever be used for dado tooling, the tilt is a little more helpful, but I found the repeatability of the "Digital" indicator on my A31 machine was fine, so assuming the angle version is simmilar. DRO for the fence is different, I'm likley going to add DRO at a later stage.

That said, if it was a shaper, I'm a proponent of DRO for everything possible, to reduce the need for subjective setup blocks.

-Karl