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Thank you… Bill [email protected]> wrote:

First time I’ve seen the “butt bar” workflow accurately covered in a magazine - with photo. Seriously, this is a terrifically concise and practical article. David Best - via mobile phone

https://www.zinio.com/au/australian-wood-review-m8643 David Best - via mobile phone

Where can we find that article? Thanks Bill Belanger [email protected]> wrote:

I’ll second that. Great article - and especially helpful for someone new to the sliding table saw. David Best - via mobile phone

Lucky, Very nice work!? You did an amazing job of articulating why we all love our sliders.? Also great to see the kappa 400 x-motion in pictures! Lots of shout outs to people on the FOG too! Mac's

I never heard fo that.? Had to look it up and watch a video. Nice tool~!! I always get a kick out of marketing terms like "Surgical Steel" and "Aircraft Aluminum."

All X-Roll sliding tables on the -500, -700, -900, and Kappa 400 machines are made from the same aluminum extrusion (just different lengths), and thus the T-slots are identical. The Hammer and

I have some machines on Zambus CarryMasters...they work well. https://www.zambus.com/carrymaster/

Are the T-slot grooves the same in a K700S? I’d measure mine off the dimensions you sent, but I’m currently out of town. Headed back tomorrow though. I’d be interested! Thx, Wade

more pics and video as the size got too big for the initial post.

I finally came across a panel crafter model 609 https://www.relcuttools.com/panelcrafter.shtml It floats on air. No templates are included. It is missing 4 knobs with 1/4-20 threads. The two threaded

I first saw Michael Fortune use Scott Grove's Ultimate Router base to rout the profile on the solid wood edging of his high end table top, then saw Matthew Cremona use it to make the round solid wood

I have used the Bosch Colt with a flush trim bit, although I do not have a fancy base. It takes a steady hand to keep from tipping the router and gouging the trim, but if you are careful it gets

Thanks James. This is just one project for my friend so will be a learning experience. On shaper, with PF I think I will get really close and if not the router option you and Jason mentioned is there.

I never bothered to reinforce the miters, I still have the Walnut pedestal table and the miters are as tight as the day i made it. But they are 3/4” x 3/4” . Regards, Mark

Imran, If you can rout the slot very precisely, sanding it to flush is doable. If you find you end up more than 1 mm over the table top, it would be a lot of sanding and tricky to get a perfect

Thank you all. I think I will go with ~3/16” slot an tenon. I am liking the router planing method but if I do my offset right, I may just be sanding it to finish. James, my plan is to glue one long

Like the edges on these tops Regards, Mark https://www.instagram.com/kessler_woodworks/

Forgot to mention that I used the Lamello Tenso P-14 self locking connector to install/glue two long skirt boards first, then installed/glued two short skirt boards. It made the gluing really simple