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If you go down the Hammer C3 rip fence route then I can guarantee that you will lose the will to live. It shouldn’t take several minutes to adjust and lock the fence in the right position.

Hum, I cannot get rid of the thud at the transition, the cast top and steel table are perfectly aligned, I will try hot glue stick. James

I have kids now 12 and 14, and they are welcome in the shop. I also have not let them operate (yet) table saw on their own. Or shaper :-). They are quite proficient on the bandsaw, which is a lot

Heads up TBIII is known to lose adhesion at higher temps post-drying, and many a door shop has found out the hard way that "exterior rated" that made TB3 so attractive was not so once full sun hit the

titebond does have an "extended time" glue that I've used and like.

When I took a 2 semester veneering class, we started with the Titebond Cold Press stuff (because it was gifted to the school to try). After several weeks of delaminations throughout the class, we

For everyday glue I use Titebond 50

It took me a year to finally get annoyed enough at the bump transition to re-align the cast tp to the steel out-table, it made it much more tolerable, but next step is to use shop finishing fillers

Looking at and listening to the video you posted yesterday, something is clearly wrong with the rip fence housing support that rides on the surface of the machine. Sounds like a wheel has a flat on

Yep, I have the larger version of that, 20” I think it is. Added a VFD to the motor and now I rarely used the Reeves drive to adjust speed. They tend to gum up in the dusty wood shop, or at least

Same concern. Strange design.

I have a rebuilt Powermatic from the 1970's.? I like the variable speed aspect of it, and since it's a 50-year-old machine, there's no plastic.? Built like a tank.

It looks like you have still a few years to figure that out.? My kids were and are always welcome in the shop and as teenagers are now able to operate many machines.? But that is a slow

Hi Tom, I have mine mounted solid to the v-blocks without any shims. I re-aligned my machine for toe out of the rip fence to the blade and slider to the blade a year or so after I got it in 2001. Have

Stan, Claudio has go it right. Teach hand tools and how they work have them build a project with them like a mallet then show how the machine works as a more efficient way of the hand tool to get it

I have a SawStop and a Hammer C3 (and also a SCM si400 slider).? There is no comparison in a "bolt on" slider to a true format slider. For your smaller shop, maybe a Hammer slider?? It would cost

Thanks Jason, thats what i will be using for my veneer work from now on.. Don’t know why though, I did say that I never had issues with the t2… Regards, Mark

That’s the only thing I can see or the small axel shaft has a bend in it.

I would approach this very differently. I think kids should learn to use hand tools first to learn about wood, grain, etc. Start off with a spokeshave making shavings, and eventually making things

Yes I use it on shop sawn veneers also. I get almost no bleed through on most commercial veneers. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture www.jholtz.com 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612