Hello Glen,
We built some 18' red cedar arches 20 years ago for a client in Seattle. ?Like you, I figured we'd "experiment" and see how our project?
would stay together. ?Well, here's the story....
We built a 18' plywood press with a 40" rise. ?Our intention was to make 20- 3/4" by 2 1/2" by 18' arches for a double carport. ?Using
the West System it all seemed pretty simple. ?Well, so much for theory. ?The cedar 'blew apart' as we put the first board on the press
(too much radius) and we hadn't even glued a board. ?Next, we planed the cedar down to 5/8", and it stayed together. ?Now we were off and running!
Six boards are?glued up @ one per day, upon removing the test arch, all looked good except for a slight 'twist' in the arch. ?Admiring our
good work, we contemplated how to speed up production. ?That's when the SNAP-CRACKLE-POP sound occurred, sending pieces
flying... ?Turns out we squeezed the press too tight and there was not enough epoxy to bond the laminations together.
Now we are really scrambling because we start the job in a month. ?We build another, this time with less press pressure. ?Success,
but still a twist.?
We settle on making 6" wide arches, cutting them length wise in half, resulting in matched pairs. No more twist. They turned out exactly as
the architect requested, and 20 years later are still in use. ?Which is a good thing, since the space we built them in, is now the kitchen
of the house we were building at the time. ?My wife never wants to see or build a arch again....
Anyway, since you provide so much entertainment, I thought I'd try to save you a little grief, don't squeeze too hard......
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors
|
Brett,
Wow I'm glad I am not the only one who creates fires in the shop, My best was fiberglas resin mixing cups in the trash can with a nice dose of paper towels. Sounds like this product does not need a space in my shop. Your chair story is great, Kinda sounds like my totem pole from hell project. I have been injecting it twice a day for weeks now and caulking and painting. Tomorrow or the next day when I find a sucker , I mean a helper. I am going to invert it on its heat and pour away, This should be interesting. I can only imagine what was going through you hGad with that chair and how would tell the customer that you didn't quite fix it but just burned it down. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
Cyanoacrylate is.....super glue.? You can add thickeners and solvents to it to alter flow-out and cure times from the little bottles you find on the racks, but the biggest issue I've had is that CA has a shelf life and lower cost CA glues tend to have diluted performance, and the good stuff is crazy expensive on a per-unit basis. I buy a big bottle every quarter or so of Starbond and keep it in the refrigerator and pour off into 2-oz dispensing bottles to keep it fresh and active. I go for the lowest pricing between Mohawk, Starbond, and 2P-10, sometimes Rockler's Stick Fast (right?) or other house brands depending upon who is running sales as I view the premium brands commodity products. I also prefer the aerosol activator over the squirt-bottle variety, seems to be more accurate, less messy, and ends up about the same cost over time.
My favorite use is CA in insect damaged wood. I once had to repair a broken leg on a French Provincial piece imported for high end resale from the 1700s, thinking it was the intersection of bad design and fat people, until I opened it up and found termites had eaten all the soft wood inside the paint for about a 6 inch distance. Filling diligently with CA the first 2 ounces, wicking into the wood and exposing lots of curing area, the wood started smoldering in the chair, smoking out the pores and the heat outside the paint became so hot after 30? seconds we poured another 4 ounces in to choke off the oxygen supply, absorb the heat, and moved the chair near a water hose. That was a very scary afternoon on fire watch.
Well did a bit of digging on what I can get from my wholesaler and found all the basics including plastic resin. I did not find resorcinol but did find Cyanoacrylate. I have never heard of it , anyone knows what it is and its application? Thanks
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:37 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??? ? Imran
Never a need for sorry with me, You all don't even have a clue how much I learn from you guys from this group. And that is why I share my stupid ideas, as one of you will set me straight. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:01 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
Sorry, I thought you were starting on the 20¡¯ long DF project. You probably do not want to see reddish brown glue lines on that.
Imran? ? Mark and everyone, Thank you for all the feedback, To clarify I am making three curved ribs that are going to raters for my shop overhand at the door. The seat cut to seat cut 8 ft with a rise of 14 inches, to me a very easy bend. The net finish is to be 2.5"x 7" give or take. one of my suppliers has 1/2"' x 3-1/4 clear pine sized in stock so I can skip the planing process and at my cost of About 100 per beam, to spend a couple of hundred more to do a glue test between West and Plastic resin or resorcinol is worth it just see what's better. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
The resorcinol glues today are of a much lower formaldehyde content then in the past, still a likely a concern but not sure if it¡¯s any worse then the others chemicals you would be exposed to in a woodshop.?
I have used it a little over the years for where I needed a hard glue line - bent laminations, burl veneers but I have also used yellow quite a bit with success. Would still recommend urea for a bent lami, however have used yellow and just added a little extra bend to account for the spring back which works if you are designing your own pieces but may not if you are working to an architects specs. I have some walnut burl tables and a Humidor that I pressed with yellow about 25yrs ago and they are still good. I also worked n a corporate/custom shop where we built 100k + boardroom tables and don¡¯t remember using anything special.?
With that said, today i would use slowset tightbond at a min on flat panels, it sets up pretty hard for a pva, no special mixing and I already have some, next would be unibond 1 which is an even harder pva and lastly urea (although I may use urea anyways as I am getting more paranoid in my older age).?
And i would never use epoxy unless it was a boat...?
resorcinol
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Cyanoacrylate is.....super glue.? You can add thickeners and solvents to it to alter flow-out and cure times from the little bottles you find on the racks, but the biggest issue I've had is that CA has a shelf life and lower cost CA glues tend to have diluted performance, and the good stuff is crazy expensive on a per-unit basis. I buy a big bottle every quarter or so of Starbond and keep it in the refrigerator and pour off into 2-oz dispensing bottles to keep it fresh and active. I go for the lowest pricing between Mohawk, Starbond, and 2P-10, sometimes Rockler's Stick Fast (right?) or other house brands depending upon who is running sales as I view the premium brands commodity products. I also prefer the aerosol activator over the squirt-bottle variety, seems to be more accurate, less messy, and ends up about the same cost over time.
My favorite use is CA in insect damaged wood. I once had to repair a broken leg on a French Provincial piece imported for high end resale from the 1700s, thinking it was the intersection of bad design and fat people, until I opened it up and found termites had eaten all the soft wood inside the paint for about a 6 inch distance. Filling diligently with CA the first 2 ounces, wicking into the wood and exposing lots of curing area, the wood started smoldering in the chair, smoking out the pores and the heat outside the paint became so hot after 30? seconds we poured another 4 ounces in to choke off the oxygen supply, absorb the heat, and moved the chair near a water hose. That was a very scary afternoon on fire watch.
Well did a bit of digging on what I can get from my wholesaler and found all the basics including plastic resin. I did not find resorcinol but did find Cyanoacrylate. I have never heard of it , anyone knows what it is and its application? Thanks
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:37 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??? ? Imran
Never a need for sorry with me, You all don't even have a clue how much I learn from you guys from this group. And that is why I share my stupid ideas, as one of you will set me straight. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:01 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
Sorry, I thought you were starting on the 20¡¯ long DF project. You probably do not want to see reddish brown glue lines on that.
Imran? ? Mark and everyone, Thank you for all the feedback, To clarify I am making three curved ribs that are going to raters for my shop overhand at the door. The seat cut to seat cut 8 ft with a rise of 14 inches, to me a very easy bend. The net finish is to be 2.5"x 7" give or take. one of my suppliers has 1/2"' x 3-1/4 clear pine sized in stock so I can skip the planing process and at my cost of About 100 per beam, to spend a couple of hundred more to do a glue test between West and Plastic resin or resorcinol is worth it just see what's better. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
The resorcinol glues today are of a much lower formaldehyde content then in the past, still a likely a concern but not sure if it¡¯s any worse then the others chemicals you would be exposed to in a woodshop.?
I have used it a little over the years for where I needed a hard glue line - bent laminations, burl veneers but I have also used yellow quite a bit with success. Would still recommend urea for a bent lami, however have used yellow and just added a little extra bend to account for the spring back which works if you are designing your own pieces but may not if you are working to an architects specs. I have some walnut burl tables and a Humidor that I pressed with yellow about 25yrs ago and they are still good. I also worked n a corporate/custom shop where we built 100k + boardroom tables and don¡¯t remember using anything special.?
With that said, today i would use slowset tightbond at a min on flat panels, it sets up pretty hard for a pva, no special mixing and I already have some, next would be unibond 1 which is an even harder pva and lastly urea (although I may use urea anyways as I am getting more paranoid in my older age).?
And i would never use epoxy unless it was a boat...?
resorcinol
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Well did a bit of digging on what I can get from my wholesaler and found all the basics including plastic resin. I did not find resorcinol but did find Cyanoacrylate. I have never heard of it , anyone knows what it is and its application? Thanks
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:37 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ??? ? Imran
Never a need for sorry with me, You all don't even have a clue how much I learn from you guys from this group. And that is why I share my stupid ideas, as one of you will set me straight. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:01 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
Sorry, I thought you were starting on the 20¡¯ long DF project. You probably do not want to see reddish brown glue lines on that.
Imran? ? Mark and everyone, Thank you for all the feedback, To clarify I am making three curved ribs that are going to raters for my shop overhand at the door. The seat cut to seat cut 8 ft with a rise of 14 inches, to me a very easy bend. The net finish is to be 2.5"x 7" give or take. one of my suppliers has 1/2"' x 3-1/4 clear pine sized in stock so I can skip the planing process and at my cost of About 100 per beam, to spend a couple of hundred more to do a glue test between West and Plastic resin or resorcinol is worth it just see what's better. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
The resorcinol glues today are of a much lower formaldehyde content then in the past, still a likely a concern but not sure if it¡¯s any worse then the others chemicals you would be exposed to in a woodshop.?
I have used it a little over the years for where I needed a hard glue line - bent laminations, burl veneers but I have also used yellow quite a bit with success. Would still recommend urea for a bent lami, however have used yellow and just added a little extra bend to account for the spring back which works if you are designing your own pieces but may not if you are working to an architects specs. I have some walnut burl tables and a Humidor that I pressed with yellow about 25yrs ago and they are still good. I also worked n a corporate/custom shop where we built 100k + boardroom tables and don¡¯t remember using anything special.?
With that said, today i would use slowset tightbond at a min on flat panels, it sets up pretty hard for a pva, no special mixing and I already have some, next would be unibond 1 which is an even harder pva and lastly urea (although I may use urea anyways as I am getting more paranoid in my older age).?
And i would never use epoxy unless it was a boat...?
resorcinol
|
Mark, Jeff, Thank you for the warnings,
I do tend to forget about that stuff. Calif. took away my lacquer last year and not sure what to do about that when my stash runs out. You just can't get a good shop high anymore. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
Fyi, plastic resin glue also off gases formaldehyde ?once mixed and while curing so ventilate as well ? Agree RE plastic resin glue.? Please use a respirator when mixing until it's liquefied.? It can cause severe toxicity if inhaled. Thanks Jason, I will do that but you just solved my problem, That is exactly what I remember, A brown powder that he mixed and I was paint boy. No foam rollers back in those days. He was making boat ribs at the time I will call my hardwood supplier, they must have it. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 5:44 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Hi Glen, Contact West Systems support. They are excellent. They know their products well and are great problem solvers.?
Weldwood plastic resin glue is my go to for bent laminations. It's a powder, the catalyst is activated with water. It has a long open time, rolls easily with a foam roller. I clamp 24 hours. It cures glass hard with very minimal spring back.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper
Ditto per Joe.? I order the backing plates from Felder with respect to my 2019 KF700. ? Chris ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Joe Jensen Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 11:44 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper ? You need Felder specific mounting plates for the rear of the Aigner fence plates.? If you buy the Aigner from Felder they come with the plates.? For my 2010 FK700SP I bought new with the Aigner plates.? I¡¯ve since added a stand-alone 2017 F700Z and I wanted to move the Aigner fence plates to that machine. The 2017 has an newer hood design and it required new Felder mounting plates for the Aigner fence. ?I was able to order them from Felder, $60 each or $120 for two plus shipping.? Took a couple months to get them. Consider this cost when deciding where to buy as I think if you order from Felder they include the right Felder plates.? ? ? I want to upgrade my recently acquired Felder F700 shaper with an Aigner safety fence.? I had a lead on a used one but that fell through.? Anyone have one for sale?
I can also pick up a new Aigner Spindle Moulder Safety Fence 500 + 500 mm while in the UK, however, I spoke to the dealer and when I asked if it fit a Felder, he immediately said I had to speak with Felder. ?He would not comment on whether the generic Aigner fence would fit a Felder.? Does anyone have any experience with this? ? Gil Fuqua Nashville
|
Re: The Log Mantle Project
I just used dominos to join the returns. They are short and light weight. Just got done sanding and cleaning shop.
Big door is next now.
Imran
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On Mar 18, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote: ?This, to me, is timber framing.? My first thought would be to perform accurate layouts of the joints, then rough cut the 45-degree miters with a circular saw (with a miter guide) or using a ryoba to cut the miter, then true up the miter joints with a hand plane and a square.? To join the return corner, I think either sliding dovetail or double-taper sliding dovetail to draw the miter tight.? Alternatively, mortise and tenon joint and big clamps, then pegs from underneath if the customer enjoys joinery details that are not too obvious.? Taking the tools to the lumber feels lighter on my aching back.? It looks like fun though.??
SW
|
Re: Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper
You need Felder specific mounting plates for the rear of the Aigner fence plates.? If you buy the Aigner from Felder they come with the plates.? For
my 2010 FK700SP I bought new with the Aigner plates.? I¡¯ve since added a stand-alone 2017 F700Z and I wanted to move the Aigner fence plates to that machine. The 2017 has an newer hood design and it required new Felder mounting plates for the Aigner fence.
?I was able to order them from Felder, $60 each or $120 for two plus shipping.? Took a couple months to get them. Consider this cost when deciding where to buy as I think if you order from Felder they include the right Felder plates.?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of G Fuqua
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 9:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper
?
I want to upgrade my recently acquired Felder F700 shaper with an Aigner safety fence.? I had a lead on a used one but that fell through.? Anyone have one for sale?
I can also pick up a new Aigner Spindle Moulder Safety Fence 500 + 500 mm while in the UK, however, I spoke to the dealer and when I asked if it fit a Felder, he immediately said I had to speak with Felder. ?He would not comment on whether the generic Aigner
fence would fit a Felder.? Does anyone have any experience with this?
?
Gil Fuqua
Nashville
|
Re: The Log Mantle Project
This, to me, is timber framing.? My first thought would be to perform accurate layouts of the joints, then rough cut the 45-degree miters with a circular saw (with a miter guide) or using a ryoba to cut the miter, then true up the miter joints with a hand plane and a square.? To join the return corner, I think either sliding dovetail or double-taper sliding dovetail to draw the miter tight.? Alternatively, mortise and tenon joint and big clamps, then pegs from underneath if the customer enjoys joinery details that are not too obvious.? Taking the tools to the lumber feels lighter on my aching back.? It looks like fun though.??
SW
|
Re: Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper
I just looked at the same thing a while back - turns out the Felder Aigner version wasn't much more to buy anyway, at least on the US Continent. But, I'd be more concerned if anyone actually?has them in stock, despite the fact they list them for sale. Times are strange.
On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:10 AM G Fuqua < gilfuqua@...> wrote: I want to upgrade my recently acquired Felder F700 shaper with an Aigner safety fence.? I had a lead on a used one but that fell through.? Anyone have one for sale?
I can also pick up a new Aigner Spindle Moulder Safety Fence 500 + 500 mm while in the UK, however, I spoke to the dealer and when I asked if it fit a Felder, he immediately said I had to speak with Felder.? He would not comment on whether the generic Aigner fence would fit a Felder.? Does anyone have any experience with this? ? Gil Fuqua Nashville
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Aigner Fence for Felder F700 Shaper
I want to upgrade my recently acquired Felder F700 shaper with an Aigner safety fence.? I had a lead on a used one but that fell through.? Anyone have one for sale?
I can also pick up a new Aigner Spindle Moulder Safety Fence 500 + 500 mm while in the UK, however, I spoke to the dealer and when I asked if it fit a Felder, he immediately said I had to speak with Felder. ?He would not comment on whether the generic Aigner fence would fit a Felder.? Does anyone have any experience with this? ? Gil Fuqua Nashville
|
Re: KF 700 not powering up
Hi, Check this out! My machine has a spare fuse in both fuse holders and they are both slow blow fuses, most people think that glass fuses are fast blow protection so just check out your spec as they need to cope with the initial surge of power.
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On 18 Mar 2021, at 15:25, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Great, hopefully that is it and nothing else is causing it to blow. You potentially have dirty power from the generator so that may be the culprit. Since it is not local to you?I would order extra. I have this fuse on 2 Felder¡¯s but none have ever blown.
Imran
On Mar 18, 2021, at 11:00 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
? Guys thanks for your replys, been a mad few days and only now have I had a chance to look at the saw. Blaine your suggestion of checking the glass fuses looks like it's a winner, I didn't realize they where fuses. One of them has blown, unfortunately my local town only stocks them in 500mA and I need 400mA, so it's a wait untill one is sent to me. Hopefully that's all it is.....will update when the donkey post arrives with the fuse.
Jonathan?
On Sat, 13 Mar 2021, 07:02 Blaine Wright, < blaine@...> wrote: Hello Jonathan;
I have a CF531 unit and just went through a start issue. I certainly agree with Imran and others to check all the switches first.
My saw has switch on the retractable saw guard that need to be carefully toggled in the centre position and is very sensitive. I? also have replaced the emergency stop button at one point just after receiving the saw as well.
In this most recent event, after stalling the saw motor I ended up replacing the brake module? (dead short) and also one of the two 40 mfu motor starter caps. As Imran indicated you can see the LED on the brake module is at least lit in your attached picture which is a positive sign. There are also 3 glass fuses on the main board that should be checked ( located on the low voltage side)
You may have already tried this but there is a reset button on one of the big relays on the main board. I can see it in your picture on the bottom right side below the two motor start relays ( in my case marked K 5 and K x)
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Blaine
|
Re: KF 700 not powering up
Great, hopefully that is it and nothing else is causing it to blow. You potentially have dirty power from the generator so that may be the culprit. Since it is not local to you?I would order extra. I have this fuse on 2 Felder¡¯s but none have ever blown.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 18, 2021, at 11:00 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote: ? Guys thanks for your replys, been a mad few days and only now have I had a chance to look at the saw. Blaine your suggestion of checking the glass fuses looks like it's a winner, I didn't realize they where fuses. One of them has blown, unfortunately my local town only stocks them in 500mA and I need 400mA, so it's a wait untill one is sent to me. Hopefully that's all it is.....will update when the donkey post arrives with the fuse.
Jonathan?
On Sat, 13 Mar 2021, 07:02 Blaine Wright, < blaine@...> wrote: Hello Jonathan;
I have a CF531 unit and just went through a start issue. I certainly agree with Imran and others to check all the switches first.
My saw has switch on the retractable saw guard that need to be carefully toggled in the centre position and is very sensitive. I? also have replaced the emergency stop button at one point just after receiving the saw as well.
In this most recent event, after stalling the saw motor I ended up replacing the brake module? (dead short) and also one of the two 40 mfu motor starter caps. As Imran indicated you can see the LED on the brake module is at least lit in your attached picture which is a positive sign. There are also 3 glass fuses on the main board that should be checked ( located on the low voltage side)
You may have already tried this but there is a reset button on one of the big relays on the main board. I can see it in your picture on the bottom right side below the two motor start relays ( in my case marked K 5 and K x)
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Blaine
|
Re: KF 700 not powering up
Guys thanks for your replys, been a mad few days and only now have I had a chance to look at the saw. Blaine your suggestion of checking the glass fuses looks like it's a winner, I didn't realize they where fuses. One of them has blown, unfortunately my local town only stocks them in 500mA and I need 400mA, so it's a wait untill one is sent to me. Hopefully that's all it is.....will update when the donkey post arrives with the fuse.
Jonathan?
On Sat, 13 Mar 2021, 07:02 Blaine Wright, < blaine@...> wrote: Hello Jonathan;
I have a CF531 unit and just went through a start issue. I certainly agree with Imran and others to check all the switches first.
My saw has switch on the retractable saw guard that need to be carefully toggled in the centre position and is very sensitive. I? also have replaced the emergency stop button at one point just after receiving the saw as well.
In this most recent event, after stalling the saw motor I ended up replacing the brake module? (dead short) and also one of the two 40 mfu motor starter caps. As Imran indicated you can see the LED on the brake module is at least lit in your attached picture which is a positive sign. There are also 3 glass fuses on the main board that should be checked ( located on the low voltage side)
You may have already tried this but there is a reset button on one of the big relays on the main board. I can see it in your picture on the bottom right side below the two motor start relays ( in my case marked K 5 and K x)
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Blaine
|
Re: Felder Universal Diamond saw blade, does anyone have or used one.
It seems like it mostly makes sense in a production shop cutting a ton of MDF/Melamine. Those products beat up on carbide, and their homogenous makeup seem to coincide with the duty the blade was designed for. There is a local shop here that runs two shifts and they swap blades at the start of each shift. They then send the blades out for sharpening each day. Im assuming they need atleast?4 blades for this cycle to work without interrupting production. 4 decent to high quality blades for any slider are going to be $400-500. On top of that, factor in sharpening multiple blades a day at $15-20 a pop. I can see the uber diamond blade making some sense in that instance.?
Patrick
On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 8:56 AM < mikkel@...> wrote: I bought mine for the following reasons:
- To replace the scoring blade option
- so I don't need a ?have to change blade between rip and cross cuts
- So I don't need to sharpen blades so often
- So I don't need a whole ballpark of different blade for different cuts (rough cross cut, fine cross cuts, rough rip... You can use universal for much but still).
- Less sanding?
- Less noise?
Real life experience so far:
- I like I don't have to change blades all the time - not a biggie when I have planned a project carefully, but for the smaller projects in between its very handy.
- I like the noise reduction, but my dust collector actually is louder than any of the blades so not much win as such.
- Had a bit of deflection when rip cutting heavy sheets that was too long for my slider (I have the 79").
- Purchased a rip-cut blade and cross cut blade for wet wood and wood that Im not sure about, so that win is also somewhat busted.
- Don't miss the scoring option so far, but hasn't tested it enough to be sure I won't need that. So far it looks good at least :-)?
Overall Im very happy with the blade, but it hasn't meet all my original expectations. YMMV
--
Regards,
Mikkel
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Re: Felder Universal Diamond saw blade, does anyone have or used one.
I bought mine for the following reasons:
- To replace the scoring blade option
- so I don't need a ?have to change blade between rip and cross cuts
- So I don't need to sharpen blades so often
- So I don't need a whole ballpark of different blade for different cuts (rough cross cut, fine cross cuts, rough rip... You can use universal for much but still).
- Less sanding?
- Less noise?
Real life experience so far:
- I like I don't have to change blades all the time - not a biggie when I have planned a project carefully, but for the smaller projects in between its very handy.
- I like the noise reduction, but my dust collector actually is louder than any of the blades so not much win as such.
- Had a bit of deflection when rip cutting heavy sheets that was too long for my slider (I have the 79").
- Purchased a rip-cut blade and cross cut blade for wet wood and wood that Im not sure about, so that win is also somewhat busted.
- Don't miss the scoring option so far, but hasn't tested it enough to be sure I won't need that. So far it looks good at least :-)?
Overall Im very happy with the blade, but it hasn't meet all my original expectations. YMMV
--
Regards,
Mikkel
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Re: The Log Mantle Project
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for the ideas but my bandsaw is too small to support a 200# log. I have not dealt with anything this size before, if one did have a massive saw, could a 11¡±x7¡±x102¡± log be resawn with manual feed? I just think it would be hard to keep it next to the fence consistently.
Cutting miters on the bandsaw would be even harder. The long dimension of finished mantle is 92¡± so most of it would be off the table. This is likely my inexperience but I am not seeing how, in this scenario, I can feed the log at 45 deg into the bandsaw blade properly. The option with a runner in table slot should help with guiding but that runner needs to be perfect and super smooth to not bind due to any feeding force that is not inline with the cut.
My log is not quite the size of a project I read about many years ago. These folks put 2 massive bandsaws on air cushions and guided them to make undulating cuts on a stationary log. That was cool to read about pre-utube days but likely there is a video out there now ?
Imran
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On Mar 17, 2021, at 9:04 AM, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: ?On 17/03/2021 01:46, imranindiana via groups.io wrote: I would love to hear if there is a way to joint such big material and any other technique I could have used. Using a band saw with extension tables? Option 1: Lengthwise half of your mantle piece using band saw, miter at table saw and re-assemble: Cut the log lengthwise in half would, with the reference face on the band saw table would have given you enough depth of cut to reference your flat face and cut the miter. After that use domino or other doweling option to realign and glue both halves back together, referencing the flat face again. You might see it a little, but the thin kerf of a band saw blade should not show to much on a live edge IMHO. To make sure you cut nice and straight fix the reference face with screws to a board with a straight edge roughly where you want to cut. Build a simple guide like show here (), but make sure it lies flat on the table instead of suspended and that the make due guide is at the bottom with reference side facing down. This should guide your cut to be fairly straight. Make sure to feed slowly and use a blade with low tpi. Option 2a Band saw miter cut with guidance jig and auxiliary guide at fence: Make a jig with a base that has the two mitered angles at either short side, effectively making a trapeze like shape (some quick 'quick and dirtyascii art' to hopefully illustrate what I mean /____\ ). Attach a fence along the largest side of the base plate at 90 degrees. Fix the reference face against the fence of your jig, using screws (preferably), or clamps. Feed the jig with mantle piece through your band saw making sure that the 45 degree edge of the base plate of your jig rides the bar against the fence Option 2b Band saw miter cut with guidance jig and t-slot runner: Don't use the fence and the temporary guide attached to it, but make a runner at the bottom of the jig that rides the t-slot in your band saw table, make one for 45 positive and one for 45 negative angle. Note: If weight or size is an issue you might consider to first cut of a piece just a little larger than needed for the mitered angle and use a domino or other doweling option to realign and glue together all pieces (some more 'quick and dirty ascii art' to hopefully illustrate what I mean /__ | + |___| + |__\ ) Option 3: Make some else do it for you as your neighbor did ;-) Kind regards, Jonathan
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Mark. thank you I switched to TB3 a few years ago for everything that I build . I have broken glue joint just to see and only had one break down the glue lie , However I amnot really sure how "waterproof" it really is.
My rafters are all under cover , originally thought about exposed tails but I know better.?
My test would be nothing more than a compression test to see what glue joint separates or if the wood does first, Just to have some fun and learn. There are a lot of new products out there in every aspect and I am old school that needs to catch up. You guys turned me on to undermount slides and i thought it was going a big adjustment but as one of you said "try it and you will never go back"
And yes you were right, Never mind the pile of F. U. drawer boxes on the side of my shop. A slight learning curve and i am not going back. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:34 PM mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote: Glen, are these exposed to water and harsh conditions?? If not, there's no performance advantage to epoxy or resorcinol over Titebond.
You suggest testing them all to "just see what's better", by what criteria?? Ease of use?? Hard to measure strength, water or heat resistance, longevity, etc.? In any event, no one glue is better in all respects, each is better than another for a specific application.??
Resorcinol is generally superior to epoxy in the extremes (eg, heat/wet cycling) but resorcinol has no gap-filling ability and requires tight joints well-clamped and cured, whereas epoxy is gap-filling without major strength impact.? I think resorcinol fell out of favor just because 1) it's not as flexible as epoxies, which can be engineered to a variety of properties (viscosity, cure time, etc), 2) no gap-filling, and 3) color (vs clear epoxy gluelines)? ??
Titebond is cheap, non-toxic/irritating, water cleanup.? If performance meets the application need, it's the best.
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On Mar 17, 2021, at 11:20 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? Imran
Never a need for sorry with me, You all don't even have a clue how much I learn from you guys from this group. And that is why I share my stupid ideas, as one of you will set me straight. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 8:01 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
Sorry, I thought you were starting on the 20¡¯ long DF project. You probably do not want to see reddish brown glue lines on that.
Imran? ? Mark and everyone, Thank you for all the feedback, To clarify I am making three curved ribs that are going to raters for my shop overhand at the door. The seat cut to seat cut 8 ft with a rise of 14 inches, to me a very easy bend. The net finish is to be 2.5"x 7" give or take. one of my suppliers has 1/2"' x 3-1/4 clear pine sized in stock so I can skip the planing process and at my cost of About 100 per beam, to spend a couple of hundred more to do a glue test between West and Plastic resin or resorcinol is worth it just see what's better. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
The resorcinol glues today are of a much lower formaldehyde content then in the past, still a likely a concern but not sure if it¡¯s any worse then the others chemicals you would be exposed to in a woodshop.?
I have used it a little over the years for where I needed a hard glue line - bent laminations, burl veneers but I have also used yellow quite a bit with success. Would still recommend urea for a bent lami, however have used yellow and just added a little extra bend to account for the spring back which works if you are designing your own pieces but may not if you are working to an architects specs. I have some walnut burl tables and a Humidor that I pressed with yellow about 25yrs ago and they are still good. I also worked n a corporate/custom shop where we built 100k + boardroom tables and don¡¯t remember using anything special.?
With that said, today i would use slowset tightbond at a min on flat panels, it sets up pretty hard for a pva, no special mixing and I already have some, next would be unibond 1 which is an even harder pva and lastly urea (although I may use urea anyways as I am getting more paranoid in my older age).?
And i would never use epoxy unless it was a boat...?
resorcinol
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Glen, are these exposed to water and harsh conditions?? If not, there's no performance advantage to epoxy or resorcinol over Titebond.
You suggest testing them all to "just see what's better", by what criteria?? Ease of use?? Hard to measure strength, water or heat resistance, longevity, etc.? In any event, no one glue is better in all respects, each is better than another for a specific application.??
Resorcinol is generally superior to epoxy in the extremes (eg, heat/wet cycling) but resorcinol has no gap-filling ability and requires tight joints well-clamped and cured, whereas epoxy is gap-filling without major strength impact.? I think resorcinol fell out of favor just because 1) it's not as flexible as epoxies, which can be engineered to a variety of properties (viscosity, cure time, etc), 2) no gap-filling, and 3) color (vs clear epoxy gluelines)? ??
Titebond is cheap, non-toxic/irritating, water cleanup.? If performance meets the application need, it's the best.
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imran
Joe Jensen