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Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

So how do you fix it?

Steve Lyde

On Mar 22, 2021, at 2:50 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:

?So, as part of this hobby, I¡¯ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well. ?We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it¡¯s smart and engineers love writing procedures. ?Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them. ?I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly. ?When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off. ?So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case. ?When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face. ?He then told me that since I¡¯m old and my eyes aren¡¯t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have. ?They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu


Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

Yes - kids! Always have to keep them in the troubleshooting tree! LOL.

Is the solution to just reset the zero on the Fiama strips, or did Brian give you a special procedure to fix? I'm interested, because I have kids too.

On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 2:50 PM <annu.marwaha@...> wrote:
So, as part of this hobby, I¡¯ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well.? We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it¡¯s smart and engineers love writing procedures.? Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them.? I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly.? When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off.? So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case.? When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face.? He then told me that since I¡¯m old and my eyes aren¡¯t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have.? They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu



--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...


Re: Northfield 32" Bandsaw

 

I ended up winning the auction for the Northfield 32" bandsaw.? I was able to pick it up Saturday.? I am mid-restoration on a 30" Tannewitz PH bandsaw and it's interesting to compare the two. The resaw height, overall machine height, table size, and working height are all nearly identical.? The Tannewitz has a 3HP 900RPM motor and the Northfield has a 5HP 900 RPM motor.? The Northfield is a couple hundred pound lighter according to the spec sheets but in direct comparison it seems to be quite a bit lighter build.? On the Tannewitz, the upper wheel bearing assembly, all the height adjusting stuff, blade support, etc are common with the Tannewitz 36" saw.? They are all quite a bit heavier than the Northfield.? Both may be plenty heavy, not sure as I have not run them. Also, main casting on the Tannewitz is thicker where I can feel with my fingers than the Northfield and the table castings are heavier.??


I plan to have one set up as a dedicated resaw and one for other cutting.? I am thinking that the Tannewitz even though it has a smaller HP motor would be the resaw machine and the Northfield would be the other as it is a 32" wheel machine and the other is a 30" machine.

?

Any thoughts? Also, does the width of the blade, 3/4" carbide,1" carbide, or 1 1/4" carbide blade make much of difference?


Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story

 

So, as part of this hobby, I¡¯ve been bringing in the kids (10 & 6 YO boys) to teach them as well. ?We have safety rules on the wall, go through checklists before using equipment etc...because it¡¯s smart and engineers love writing procedures. ?Anyway, I got some DRO parallel arms in from Brian last week and went to install them. ?I used my precision level to make sure they were installed correctly. ?When I went to use them, I saw that they were way off for some reason. Called Brian to troubleshoot and the only thing we could come up with was that they were subjected to a strong magnetic field during shipping that threw them off. ?So I ordered a magnetic field viewer to check the strips?and confirmed that this was the case. ?When I told my oldest about that, he got a worried look on his face. ?He then told me that since I¡¯m old and my eyes aren¡¯t great (which they are), he decided to double check my work when I got the arms setup with the WIXY digital level that we have. ?They digital level that has a very strong magnet on the bottom of it....

-Annu


Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks David. Hubs are completely different between Vario4 (two screw attachment and 35mm opening) and Comatic with smaller keyed opening for a 16mm spindle.

I have sent details to Axiom.

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 11:34 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ?
David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:01 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Lucky, David or anyone else,

No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?

60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?

BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:14 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?I¡¯m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn¡¯t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I¡¯ve done lots of 16¡± wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that ¡°minimum down force¡± is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board¡¯s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer¡¯s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer¡¯s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there¡¯s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup ¡ª concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a ¡°flatness¡± that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












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Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

?
Hi Tom,

Thanks. That is probably what I have on my comatic. It is a hard call because they are pretty new and still measure 120x60mm. It may be just easier to get them replaced now while I am ordering for Shaper PF.

Imran

On Mar 22, 2021, at 2:14 PM, tom@... wrote:

?Hi Imran!?

FWIW, the Co-Matic feeders from Shop Gear Inc ship with 60 Durometer rubber tires, but the aftermarket polyurethane tires are 50 Durometer. I'm not advocating one over the other, just another data point....?

?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks David. Following worked out for my case. Left over cleat material from mantle. Used chamfer to my advantage. The lever settle down in groove so one has to raise it for removal.?Master clamp (bottom) required a 1 1/16¡± thick block in back to accommodate pressure gauge.


I will replace the top hanging block (first try) with a longer one like I used for lower clamp.



Imran

On Mar 22, 2021, at 5:36 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?Imran,

Big Squeeze storage:

<Saw Accessories.jpeg>


On Mar 19, 2021, at 5:48 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I am thinking of making something to hang BS clamps on the wall. Got a few ideas in my head but thought I ask here.

If you have already done so and are willing to share your approach, that would be awesome ?

Imran









Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

Hi Imran!?

FWIW, the Co-Matic feeders from Shop Gear Inc ship with 60 Durometer rubber tires, but the aftermarket polyurethane tires are 50 Durometer. I'm not advocating one over the other, just another data point....?

?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: AD741 Delivery

 

Congrats on the new machine, moving these things around is not an easy sunday afternoon!

-Ameer


Re: AD741 Delivery

 

Congrats,

Longest ramp I have seen so far,

Bill


Re: AD741 Delivery

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Andrew,

Welcome to the group. Congrats on getting it safely on ground. Best wishes on your new adventure ?

Imran

On Mar 22, 2021, at 11:28 AM, Andrew Brant <andrew@...> wrote:

?Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it¡¯s finally home! It hasn¡¯t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I¡¯ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i¡¯m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24¡±, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn¡¯t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren¡¯t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4¡¯s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn¡¯t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn¡¯t fall more than half an or so at a time. I¡¯d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn¡¯t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I¡¯m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!

<0DB23D2D-A3E4-40BC-9670-CA31E480AFB3.jpeg>
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<8623753F-6F3F-49ED-86B4-849847889145.jpeg>
<58742F07-879B-4E48-AD4A-A14222770A2C.jpeg>
<A2944D93-A8C4-44FB-94F2-3B490407B903.jpeg>


Re: AD741 Delivery

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Nice, Congratulations! ?Chris

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Steve Lyde via groups.io
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 10:42 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] AD741 Delivery

?

Looks fantastic Andrew!!

Steve Lyde



On Mar 22, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Andrew Brant <andrew@...> wrote:

?Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it¡¯s finally home! It hasn¡¯t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I¡¯ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i¡¯m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24¡±, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn¡¯t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren¡¯t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4¡¯s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn¡¯t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn¡¯t fall more than half an or so at a time. I¡¯d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn¡¯t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I¡¯m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!

<0DB23D2D-A3E4-40BC-9670-CA31E480AFB3.jpeg>

<9A524D00-F8D1-4906-8255-006561C19739.jpeg>

<D4236DCC-738B-484D-860C-D6E0CC73388D.jpeg>

<3CC0CF7C-646A-4CDF-ADB9-0C2ADEC41A12.jpeg>

<493DC3CB-F783-44D4-9F05-83B1B1C3F2C8.jpeg>

<BBA38E46-76DE-44F5-9B3C-BB76D7E0287C.jpeg>

<B27F4751-098F-45E9-82F4-19C0D85339B9.jpeg>

<9CF3AA82-33EB-406A-B797-D2F4F305A2DA.jpeg>

<DDE01571-7137-4B4E-86B7-19145D144467.jpeg>

<DEE8C463-766D-4F8A-9F50-549D333615F9.jpeg>

<0D9540D6-72F3-4BA6-9D87-D5FA5B43B8FD.jpeg>

<0D105791-B93F-4B2C-8772-87E2F1340351.jpeg>

<7FE8FB68-C351-4758-90F8-FE8EF03636E4.jpeg>

<63EF7057-EBA1-4066-AC43-B4DFEA326A86.jpeg>

<AC2E179E-68E2-4EAB-85EA-0992249A2717.jpeg>

<8623753F-6F3F-49ED-86B4-849847889145.jpeg>

<58742F07-879B-4E48-AD4A-A14222770A2C.jpeg>

<A2944D93-A8C4-44FB-94F2-3B490407B903.jpeg>


Re: AD741 Delivery

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Looks fantastic Andrew!!

Steve Lyde

On Mar 22, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Andrew Brant <andrew@...> wrote:

?Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it¡¯s finally home! It hasn¡¯t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I¡¯ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i¡¯m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24¡±, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn¡¯t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren¡¯t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4¡¯s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn¡¯t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn¡¯t fall more than half an or so at a time. I¡¯d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn¡¯t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I¡¯m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!

<0DB23D2D-A3E4-40BC-9670-CA31E480AFB3.jpeg>
<9A524D00-F8D1-4906-8255-006561C19739.jpeg>
<D4236DCC-738B-484D-860C-D6E0CC73388D.jpeg>
<3CC0CF7C-646A-4CDF-ADB9-0C2ADEC41A12.jpeg>
<493DC3CB-F783-44D4-9F05-83B1B1C3F2C8.jpeg>
<BBA38E46-76DE-44F5-9B3C-BB76D7E0287C.jpeg>
<B27F4751-098F-45E9-82F4-19C0D85339B9.jpeg>
<9CF3AA82-33EB-406A-B797-D2F4F305A2DA.jpeg>
<DDE01571-7137-4B4E-86B7-19145D144467.jpeg>
<DEE8C463-766D-4F8A-9F50-549D333615F9.jpeg>
<0D9540D6-72F3-4BA6-9D87-D5FA5B43B8FD.jpeg>
<0D105791-B93F-4B2C-8772-87E2F1340351.jpeg>
<7FE8FB68-C351-4758-90F8-FE8EF03636E4.jpeg>
<63EF7057-EBA1-4066-AC43-B4DFEA326A86.jpeg>
<AC2E179E-68E2-4EAB-85EA-0992249A2717.jpeg>
<8623753F-6F3F-49ED-86B4-849847889145.jpeg>
<58742F07-879B-4E48-AD4A-A14222770A2C.jpeg>
<A2944D93-A8C4-44FB-94F2-3B490407B903.jpeg>


Re: West System question

 

Hi Glen,

I think it was the width and cedar grain that caused the twisting. ?When we went to the wider boards, the problem went away.
We did have a slight variation in the arch curves, but we made them longer then necessary and trimmed the
ends ?to get them to match up. ?I might have some photos laying around if I can figure out how to post them. ?Looking at your
form, the curve is less than what we built.

Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors
206-372-1264


AD741 Delivery

 

Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it¡¯s finally home! It hasn¡¯t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I¡¯ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i¡¯m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24¡±, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn¡¯t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren¡¯t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4¡¯s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn¡¯t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn¡¯t fall more than half an or so at a time. I¡¯d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn¡¯t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I¡¯m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!


Re: West System question

 

Of course not. ?It was 20 years ago, and we thought we knew what we were doing...

We just cranked down the press way too hard or so we thought. ?Once we reduced the clamp pressure
everything worked remarkably well.

Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors


Re: West System question

 

Mike Blake,?

Did you wet out the bare wood with un-thickened to ensure penetration then notch trowel with thickened epoxy to avoid gaps then wait leaving clamps on until fully cured?


Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Imran,

Big Squeeze storage:



On Mar 19, 2021, at 5:48 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I am thinking of making something to hang BS clamps on the wall. Got a few ideas in my head but thought I ask here.

If you have already done so and are willing to share your approach, that would be awesome ?

Imran









Re: West System question

 

Mike ,
Thank you for share you experience / disaster with me. I really don't understand how you could clamp with so much pressure to lose the glue contact unless you have a clamping system way better than mine.? Attached is a picture of what I wade. I was going to skip the West System but from your response? I am Going to give it a shot. Bought some crap 1x4 DF #2 ("should be graded #4 or shittier") And did at test bend , one piece at full thickness and even the shitty ones did not blow up. I will give them a few days to dry out a bit, plan to 1/2" and do a glue up of half the stack of the project. That sould give me a good idea of where this disaster is going. My original plan was clear pine but now I am thinking of VGDF as the cover on top is clear pine. I know that fir will be a bit harder to bend but my last bend was VGDF and it went great with very little springback. My real question is why did you get a twist? ? Do you think it was the form, the wood?
Thank you for Sharing, Wood splinters coming your way .
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507


On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 6:59 AM me.blake via <me.blake=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello Glen,

We built some 18' red cedar arches 20 years ago for a client in Seattle.? Like you, I figured we'd "experiment" and see how our project?
would stay together.? Well, here's the story....

We built a 18' plywood press with a 40" rise.? Our intention was to make 20- 3/4" by 2 1/2" by 18' arches for a double carport.? Using
the West System it all seemed pretty simple.? Well, so much for theory.? The cedar 'blew apart' as we put the first board on the press
(too much radius) and we hadn't even glued a board.? Next, we planed the cedar down to 5/8", and it stayed together.? Now we were off and running!

Six boards are?glued up @ one per day, upon removing the test arch, all looked good except for a slight 'twist' in the arch.? Admiring our
good work, we contemplated how to speed up production.? That's when the SNAP-CRACKLE-POP sound occurred, sending pieces
flying...? Turns out we squeezed the press too tight and there was not enough epoxy to bond the laminations together.

Now we are really scrambling because we start the job in a month.? We build another, this time with less press pressure.? Success,
but still a twist.?

We settle on making 6" wide arches, cutting them length wise in half, resulting in matched pairs. No more twist. They turned out exactly as
the architect requested, and 20 years later are still in use.? Which is a good thing, since the space we built them in, is now the kitchen
of the house we were building at the time.? My wife never wants to see or build a arch again....

Anyway, since you provide so much entertainment, I thought I'd try to save you a little grief, don't squeeze too hard......

Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors


Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I keep suggesting to Mary Kay that they color match their tires. ?

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 21, 2021, at 8:37 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?
Thanks David.

Indeed, those colours sound about right to me. I¡¯ve always been partial to ¡°hot pink¡± but have found that durometer hard to source.

Lucky


On 22 Mar 2021, at 1:34 pm, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ?
David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:01 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Lucky, David or anyone else,

No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?

60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?

BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:14 PM, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

?I¡¯m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn¡¯t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I¡¯ve done lots of 16¡± wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

David Best







On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that ¡°minimum down force¡± is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board¡¯s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer¡¯s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer¡¯s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there¡¯s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup ¡ª concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a ¡°flatness¡± that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












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