?

Looks fantastic Andrew!!

?Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it’s finally home! It hasn’t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I’ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i’m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24”, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn’t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren’t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4’s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn’t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn’t fall more than half an or so at a time. I’d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn’t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I’m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!

<0DB23D2D-A3E4-40BC-9670-CA31E480AFB3.jpeg>

<9A524D00-F8D1-4906-8255-006561C19739.jpeg>

<D4236DCC-738B-484D-860C-D6E0CC73388D.jpeg>

<3CC0CF7C-646A-4CDF-ADB9-0C2ADEC41A12.jpeg>

<493DC3CB-F783-44D4-9F05-83B1B1C3F2C8.jpeg>

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<B27F4751-098F-45E9-82F4-19C0D85339B9.jpeg>

<9CF3AA82-33EB-406A-B797-D2F4F305A2DA.jpeg>

<DDE01571-7137-4B4E-86B7-19145D144467.jpeg>

<DEE8C463-766D-4F8A-9F50-549D333615F9.jpeg>

<0D9540D6-72F3-4BA6-9D87-D5FA5B43B8FD.jpeg>

<0D105791-B93F-4B2C-8772-87E2F1340351.jpeg>

<7FE8FB68-C351-4758-90F8-FE8EF03636E4.jpeg>

<63EF7057-EBA1-4066-AC43-B4DFEA326A86.jpeg>

<AC2E179E-68E2-4EAB-85EA-0992249A2717.jpeg>

<8623753F-6F3F-49ED-86B4-849847889145.jpeg>

<58742F07-879B-4E48-AD4A-A14222770A2C.jpeg>

<A2944D93-A8C4-44FB-94F2-3B490407B903.jpeg>

On Mar 22, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Andrew Brant <andrew@...> wrote:

?Hi! I ordered an AD741 last september from the felder office in Sacramento, and it’s finally home! It hasn’t been an easy year to get anything in a pallet from europe but it made it.?

I’ve been woodworking for about ten years, mostly on the nights and weekends while i had a corporate day job in film production in silicon valley, and I would pay my SF rent by making stuff with hand tools in my backyard woodshed. Quit the job and followed my passion and went to the Krenov School in fort bragg. So now i’m putting together my own shop and doing what i was doing full time.?

wanted to write about the experience so far, and in case i need any help from here! Smooth sailing.

Delivery was great, got it in my covered trailer easily on a forklift straight in. I bought two thousand pound straps, 8 - 2x4 x 24”, 8- ?2x4 x 8ft, and had six or so 3/4, 1/2, and 1/4 4ft x4ft squares before delivery.?

i screwed 8 of the short 2x4s around the base kf
the pallet, around each corner, so it wasn’t going anywhere on the drive back over the mountains to the coast. Straps weren’t necessary at all but maybe they helped?

Got it home and called a local mover who got it into the lift gate and down the ground with pallet jacks, and then it took two full size ones to move it into the garage.?

Then, by myself I basically extended the pallet as much as I made a ramp, move it all the way over, kicked the pallet out, and seeing it was more than stable, i unscrewed 2x4’s and knocked them out slowly with a sledgehammer. The machine didn’t move at all while i did this, and i had stop blocks down so it wouldn’t fall more than half an or so at a time. I’d knock a few out, level it, move a piece of plywood from one end to the other and just slowly moved it back and forth about four times, like walking a switchback down a steep mountain trail. Very slow and easy, until it was down on the floor.?

The balance on a narrow, short pallet jack from globe isn’t great but it works. I found it more tippy on the ground when i want to turn it at too sharp an angle. Straight back and forth is fine.?

I’m going to get it wired up and turned on today, and the fence installed. Everything is ready for it, just have to put the plug end on. Super excited to have this machine finally!

<0DB23D2D-A3E4-40BC-9670-CA31E480AFB3.jpeg>

<9A524D00-F8D1-4906-8255-006561C19739.jpeg>

<D4236DCC-738B-484D-860C-D6E0CC73388D.jpeg>

<3CC0CF7C-646A-4CDF-ADB9-0C2ADEC41A12.jpeg>

<493DC3CB-F783-44D4-9F05-83B1B1C3F2C8.jpeg>

<BBA38E46-76DE-44F5-9B3C-BB76D7E0287C.jpeg>

<B27F4751-098F-45E9-82F4-19C0D85339B9.jpeg>

<9CF3AA82-33EB-406A-B797-D2F4F305A2DA.jpeg>

<DDE01571-7137-4B4E-86B7-19145D144467.jpeg>

<DEE8C463-766D-4F8A-9F50-549D333615F9.jpeg>

<0D9540D6-72F3-4BA6-9D87-D5FA5B43B8FD.jpeg>

<0D105791-B93F-4B2C-8772-87E2F1340351.jpeg>

<7FE8FB68-C351-4758-90F8-FE8EF03636E4.jpeg>

<63EF7057-EBA1-4066-AC43-B4DFEA326A86.jpeg>

<AC2E179E-68E2-4EAB-85EA-0992249A2717.jpeg>

<8623753F-6F3F-49ED-86B4-849847889145.jpeg>

<58742F07-879B-4E48-AD4A-A14222770A2C.jpeg>

<A2944D93-A8C4-44FB-94F2-3B490407B903.jpeg>

On Mar 19, 2021, at 5:48 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I am thinking of making something to hang BS clamps on the wall. Got a few ideas in my head but thought I ask here.

If you have already done so and are willing to share your approach, that would be awesome ?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 8:37 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?

Thanks David.

Indeed, those colours sound about right to me. I’ve always been partial to “hot pink” but have found that durometer hard to source.

Lucky

On 22 Mar 2021, at 1:34 pm, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ?

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:01 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Lucky, David or anyone else,

No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?

60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?

BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:14 PM, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

?I’m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn’t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I’ve done lots of 16” wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

David Best

On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>

On 22 Mar 2021, at 1:34 pm, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ?

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:01 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Lucky, David or anyone else,

No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?

60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?

BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:14 PM, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

?I’m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn’t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I’ve done lots of 16” wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

David Best

On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>

On Mar 21, 2021, at 7:01 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Lucky, David or anyone else,

No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?

60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?

BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:14 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?I’m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn’t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I’ve done lots of 16” wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/

On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>

On Mar 21, 2021, at 4:07 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

David,

I phrased that poorly. I subscribe to what you shared, thanks to training by David Best on use of PF on jointer.

What I was going for was based upon the recommendation, I may be remembering it incorrectly, to get really sticky tires for jointer. So I assumed that one may want a different tire for jointer vs shaper.

Sticky tires have lower durometer rating meaning they are less hard as I understand it. This lead me to the poor phrasing.

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 5:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












<image0.jpeg>

On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Imran:

There is a common misperception that “minimum down force” is desirable for a jointer.

I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results.

Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board’s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results).

For scenarios where the jointer’s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer’s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there’s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup — concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually.

This process prepares the worst boards to a “flatness” that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here.

Minimum down force is irrelevant.


Warm regards,
David Lucky

On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website



Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?

Imran

On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.

I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?

Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.

If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.

Imran












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