Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
My Tannewitz came with their old style blade guides with steel wear strips.? Tannewitz now uses ball bearing type guides. I've emailed asking for pricing replacement wear strips and on new guides.? I did see one place selling replacement wear strips and the set for upper and lower were like $700 !? To put things in perspective, the rear bearing on the original guides in 3" across. I found one new rear bearing assembly on ebay for like $70.? But I will need a second and all new wear strips.
I've been using Laguna ceramic guides for 20 years. I intend to primarily use the Tanny for resawing and plan to mount a resaw feeder to the table.
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Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
It’s late here now and so I’ll take a look at the cct diagram tomorrow morning when I’m fresh. ?Mine’s a 3-phase so nowhere near identical!
The thing that is puzzling me is why it behaves that way when no ON switch action.
If it does come down to the motor, can you not tilt the machine over onto its side with a car engine hoist or crane ? ?
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[Edited Message Follows]
Hey Roger,? I've attached a PDF that shows a translated electrical diagram, labeled picture of the all the wires comming out of the electrical box, and a labeled picture of one of the connectors on the motor wires. So here are all the tests that i've done. 1.? All of the connections on the Junction Box connected and machine plugged in with the circuit breaker turned off
- If the mode switch in the Planer Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, the planer turns on like it's trying to start but just rocks back and forth loudly with out me touching the on button
- If the mode switch is in any other position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts humming with out me touching the on button
- I have not tried to start the table saw or shaper while the planer motor is humming
2.? All of the connections on the Junction Box connected except the planer motor and machine plugged in with the circuit breaker turned off
- If the mode switch in the Planer Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, no noise
- If the mode switch in the Table Saw or Shaper Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, no noise
- In these modes, i can start the Table Saw or the Shaper.? When I turn them off, the ebrake does engage
3.? In order to check of there is something partially wrong with the internal circuit that connects the brake board or cam switch to just the planer plug, I decided to do teh following:
- Disconnected the circuit breaker and then all the motors.
- I plugged the planer motor to the table saw motor connector on the electrical box.
- Cam Switch in planer mode or in shaper mode:? as soon as turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts humming like in #1.
- Cam Switch in table saw mode:? as soon as turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts rocking back and forth like in #1.
4.? I went through this with Felder.? The tech said that it sounded like the motor had a short in it, which he said would correspond to the electrical smell I had when the machine first started malfunctioning.? He had me repeat steps in number 2.? He was looking for if the brake board was bad.? He said that if the table saw and shaper both stopped like they were supposed to in less than 10 seconds, which they did, then the brake board was fine.? He had me confirm this with the humming sound when the motor stopped. 5.? He said that eack motor has two sets of winding connections (U1/U2 and Z1/Z2) and a ground connection.? There should be continuity between the corresponding winding pairs but not between them (U1/Z1, U2/Z2, etc.) or between the ground and one of the winding pairs.? So i checked this on the planer motor.? I had continuty between the Z1/Z2 connection and ground which he said indicated the motor short.? I checked the other two motor wires and the continuity was as he stated. He said that you are going to find one of two things, that the short is in the wire connector or in the motor its self.? unfortunatly, i can not remove the wire harness with out getting to the motor.? This will require that I unbolt the planer section from the table saw section, lift it up, crib it,? and get to the bottom of the planer.? Basically the most difficult thing you have to do on the machine.? One of my electrical engineer friends is going to come over and take a look at the box, reivew the schematic, and confirm if this is the case.? If it is, the motor is around $600 new.?? So yeah, this sucks...... -Annu
<Annu_s C-31 Problem.pdf>
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
There are two spacers and they are identical.? I suspect at some earlier time a wider bearing was used and instead of changing the shaft design they
added spacers.?
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 2:41 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
?
Brian, am I reading the diagram wrong.? #6 spacer on the front bearing looks to be duplicated on the back, just not numbered.? A machine I'm working on right now has a similar diagram and only
numbers identical items once but there is no number on what looks like the back spacer so maybe there is none.? Dave
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double.
?
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of
bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.?
The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position
and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based
on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a
press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
?
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
It looked to me like the nut #9 was pinching the inner against #6 on the rear.? Dave
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Look at the print, in the lower left corner it lists the item #’s, the name, their part number and the QUANTITY, on the #6 it shows 2 required. The front bearing gets pinched to a shoulder on the od with the #3 cap.
The rear bearing is spaced to be in the bore in the rear, but not tight to any shoulder. This is pretty typical construction of this type of spindle.
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:40 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Brian, am I reading the diagram wrong.? #6 spacer on the front bearing looks to be duplicated on the back, just not numbered.? A machine I'm working on right now has a similar diagram and only numbers identical items once but there is no number on what looks
like the back spacer so maybe there is none.? Dave
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double.
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided
to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel
shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the
space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure
alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
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Re: For Sale - KF700S 2013 (2014 Delivery)
Thank you Brian!?
here is the link?
Anthony
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Re: For Sale - KF700S 2013 (2014 Delivery)
You can provide a link, not a problem, you can also put the details up on here if you like. Always seems to be somebody looking...
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On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:44 PM, Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote:
Hi guys,?
I've put up a listing at my local craigslist for my table saw in Maine. ?If anyone here is interested or knows someone that might be, that would clearly be preferable. Perhaps I am overpricing the saw, but I am not that motivated to sell so I'll see if there is interest and if not Ill just hold on to it. ?I really appreciate everyones help here as I prepped for the listing. ?
I am unclear on the protocol for listing outside website here, but if permissible I will include a link to the craigslisting. ?
Anthony?
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Look at the print, in the lower left corner it lists the item #’s, the name, their part number and the QUANTITY, on the #6 it shows 2 required. The front bearing gets pinched to a shoulder on the od with the #3 cap. The rear bearing is spaced to be in the bore in the rear, but not tight to any shoulder. This is pretty typical construction of this type of spindle.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:40 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Brian, am I reading the diagram wrong.? #6 spacer on the front bearing looks to be duplicated on the back, just not numbered.? A machine I'm working on right now has a similar diagram and only numbers identical items once but there is no number on what looks like the back spacer so maybe there is none.? Dave
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double. On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Hey Roger,? I've attached a PDF that shows a translated electrical diagram, labeled picture of the all the wires comming out of the electrical box, and a labeled picture of one of the connectors on the motor wires. So here are all the tests that i've done. 1.? All of the connections on the Junction Box connected and machine plugged in with the circuit breaker turned off
- If the mode switch in the Planer Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, the planer turns on like it's trying to start but just rocks back and forth loudly with out me touching the on button
- If the mode switch is in any other position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts humming with out me touching the on button
- I have not tried to start the table saw or shaper while the planer motor is humming
2.? All of the connections on the Junction Box connected except the planer motor and machine plugged in with the circuit breaker turned off
- If the mode switch in the Planer Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, no noise
- If the mode switch in the Table Saw or Shaper Position, as soon as I turn on the circuit breaker, no noise
- In these modes, i can start the Table Saw or the Shaper.? When I turn them off, the ebrake does engage
3.? In order to check of there is something partially wrong with the internal circuit that connects the brake board or cam switch to just the planer plug, I decided to do teh following:
- Disconnected the circuit breaker and then all the motors.
- I plugged the planer motor to the table saw motor connector on the electrical box.
- Cam Switch in planer mode or in shaper mode:? as soon as turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts humming like in #1.
- Cam Switch in table saw mode:? as soon as turn on the circuit breaker, the planer motor starts rocking back and forth like in #1.
4.? I went through this with Felder.? The tech said that it sounded like the motor had a short in it, which he said would correspond to the electrical smell I had when the machine first started malfunctioning.? He had me repeat steps in number 2.? He was looking for if the brake board was bad.? He said that if the table saw and shaper both stopped like they were supposed to in less than 10 seconds, which they did, then the brake board was fine.? He had me confirm this with the humming sound when the motor stopped. 5.? He said that eack motor has two sets of winding connections (U1/U2 and Z1/Z2) and a ground connection.? There should be continuity between the corresponding winding pairs but not between them (U1/Z1, U2/Z2, etc.) or between the ground and one of the winding pairs.? So i checked this on the planer motor.? I had continuty between the Z1/Z2 connection and ground which he said indicated the motor short.? I checked the other two motor wires and the continuity was as he stated. He said that you are going to find one of two things, that the short is in the wire connector or in the motor its self.? unfortunatly, i can not remove the wire harness with out getting to the motor.? This will require that I unbolt the planer section from the table saw section, lift it up, crib it,? and get to the bottom of the planer.? Basically the most difficult thing you have to do on the machine.? One of my electrical engineer friends is going to come over and take a look at the box, reivew the schematic, and confirm if this is the case.? If it is, the motor is around $600 new.?? So yeah, this sucks...... -Annu
|
For Sale - KF700S 2013 (2014 Delivery)
Hi guys,?
I've put up a listing at my local craigslist for my table saw in Maine. ?If anyone here is interested or knows someone that might be, that would clearly be preferable. Perhaps I am overpricing the saw, but I am not that motivated to sell so I'll see if there is interest and if not Ill just hold on to it. ?I really appreciate everyones help here as I prepped for the listing. ?
I am unclear on the protocol for listing outside website here, but if permissible I will include a link to the craigslisting. ?
Anthony?
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Brian, am I reading the diagram wrong.? #6 spacer on the front bearing looks to be duplicated on the back, just not numbered.? A machine I'm working on right now has a similar diagram and only numbers identical items once but there is no number on what looks
like the back spacer so maybe there is none.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double.
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided
to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel
shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the
space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure
alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 2:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
?
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double.
?
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of
bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.?
The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position
and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based
on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a
press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
?
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
I looked at the drawing wrong.? The wheel side is different, the drawing show space for a double row bearing. Mine is sized for a single row bearing,
21mm width.? The drawing matches mine bearing housing for the other end.? I am now certain that the bearings get tightened with the nuts on each end and the positing of the assembly is set by the recess for the front bearing.
?
I will ask about parts diagrams.? When I called the first time and asked for a manual or any docs they said they had none.? The do have a parts book
because they were able to look up the part number for a foot brake pedal that’s broken.
?
OWWM has all the docs I’ve been able to find. Also someone is selling on ebay printouts of the docs that are free on OWWM.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 2:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
?
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those
types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size,
steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure
the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty
sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
The front bearing locates the spindle assembly and the rear bearing floats in the bore, pretty simple to see from the print, even if his has a single wide bearing in the front rather than double.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 13, 2021, at 2:23 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Joe, that rear bearing looks to have a spacer on the inner ring to trap the bearing.? I wonder if the bearing changed or on earlier versions a bearing with an extended inner ring was used.? Those types of bearings became hard to source so Tanny might have decided
to add a spacer rather than change their castings to accept a different thickness bearing.? totally just guessing here but I don't see many bearings just floating on a spindle.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.?
Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for
the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment
would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Have you contacted Tannewitz with the serial # ?? They may have a drawing that matches your machine.? I've got lots of machines where the diagrams don't match.? I know Oliver still has drawings to match serial # so I would think Tannewitz may.? owwm.com publication
reprints might have something too.? Dave
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I went out to measure the space for bearings in the housing and mine does not match the drawing.? My bearing housing has room for a single row bearing on the wheel side.?
With the plate installed it will be a perfect fit as far as I’m able to measure with a caliper.? The rear bearing housing has no specific edge to hold the bearing. So it looks like each bearing tights on the shaft with their respective nuts and the position
of the shaft/wheel is determined by the recess for that front bearing.? The rear bearing can float in the housing but it tight to the shaft.
?
?
The pictures shows two deep groove bearings rather than angular contact so there is no preload.? The purpose of the split nuts is to capture the inner race of the bearing.? If there were spacers, the nut would press
the bearings against the spacer which should be a loose fit on the spindle.? Dave
Both ends are threaded.? The wheels side is a threaded bushing, reverse threads.? The rear bearing is held on by a thin nut that split with a set screw to lock it in place.
When I disassembled I assumed I would need to adjust the load on the bearings.? But as I look at the parts and the drawing it looks like each bearing seats (I agree with you on the rear). There are also two spacers, shown on the drawing.? Oddly they are a
slop fit on the shaft and not at all precision looking. Is it possible this was machined with tight enough tolerances for the bearing seats in the housing and the shaft?? The nuts on both ends were tight. I had to used a cheaper pipe on the spanner wrench
to loosen that end and an impact wrench on the nut on the other end.
?
?
Joe, I'm not sure the rear bearing should float either.? Looks like there may be a nut of some sort that tightens on the spindle and holds the inner ring.? I have machines with a threaded spanner ring with a set screw
to secure the bearing.? hard to tell from the diagram.? Are there threads?
The double row looks to be correct if you can verify the width.? A double will provide a much higher radial load which is what you want when tensioning the wheel.? I would not expect the bearing to be able to move
as a single row one would unless there is a wide alternative to the standard size.? The rpm is low so the double makes sense.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now
I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the
front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would
not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
I went out to measure the space for bearings in the housing and mine does not match the drawing.? My bearing housing has room for a single row bearing
on the wheel side.? With the plate installed it will be a perfect fit as far as I’m able to measure with a caliper.? The rear bearing housing has no specific edge to hold the bearing. So it looks like each bearing tights on the shaft with their respective
nuts and the position of the shaft/wheel is determined by the recess for that front bearing.? The rear bearing can float in the housing but it tight to the shaft.
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 1:54 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
?
The pictures shows two deep groove bearings rather than angular contact so there is no preload.? The purpose of the split nuts is to capture the inner race of the bearing.? If there were spacers,
the nut would press the bearings against the spacer which should be a loose fit on the spindle.? Dave
Both ends are threaded.? The wheels side is a threaded bushing, reverse threads.? The rear bearing is held on by a thin nut that split with a set screw
to lock it in place. When I disassembled I assumed I would need to adjust the load on the bearings.? But as I look at the parts and the drawing it looks like each bearing seats (I agree with you on the rear). There are also two spacers, shown on the drawing.?
Oddly they are a slop fit on the shaft and not at all precision looking. Is it possible this was machined with tight enough tolerances for the bearing seats in the housing and the shaft?? The nuts on both ends were tight. I had to used a cheaper pipe on the
spanner wrench to loosen that end and an impact wrench on the nut on the other end.
?
?
Joe, I'm not sure the rear bearing should float either.? Looks like there may be a nut of some sort that tightens on the spindle and holds the inner ring.? I have machines with a threaded spanner
ring with a set screw to secure the bearing.? hard to tell from the diagram.? Are there threads?
The double row looks to be correct if you can verify the width.? A double will provide a much higher radial load which is what you want when tensioning the wheel.? I would not expect the bearing
to be able to move as a single row one would unless there is a wide alternative to the standard size.? The rpm is low so the double makes sense.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size,
steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure
the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty
sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
The pictures shows two deep groove bearings rather than angular contact so there is no preload.? The purpose of the split nuts is to capture the inner race of the bearing.? If there were spacers, the nut would press the bearings against the spacer which should
be a loose fit on the spindle.? Dave
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Both ends are threaded.? The wheels side is a threaded bushing, reverse threads.? The rear bearing is held on by a thin nut that split with a set screw to lock it in place.
When I disassembled I assumed I would need to adjust the load on the bearings.? But as I look at the parts and the drawing it looks like each bearing seats (I agree with you on the rear). There are also two spacers, shown on the drawing.? Oddly they are a
slop fit on the shaft and not at all precision looking. Is it possible this was machined with tight enough tolerances for the bearing seats in the housing and the shaft?? The nuts on both ends were tight. I had to used a cheaper pipe on the spanner wrench
to loosen that end and an impact wrench on the nut on the other end.
?
?
Joe, I'm not sure the rear bearing should float either.? Looks like there may be a nut of some sort that tightens on the spindle and holds the inner ring.? I have machines with a threaded spanner ring with a set screw
to secure the bearing.? hard to tell from the diagram.? Are there threads?
The double row looks to be correct if you can verify the width.? A double will provide a much higher radial load which is what you want when tensioning the wheel.? I would not expect the bearing to be able to move
as a single row one would unless there is a wide alternative to the standard size.? The rpm is low so the double makes sense.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now
I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the
front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would
not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Both ends are threaded.? The wheels side is a threaded bushing, reverse threads.? The rear bearing is held on by a thin nut that split with a set screw
to lock it in place. When I disassembled I assumed I would need to adjust the load on the bearings.? But as I look at the parts and the drawing it looks like each bearing seats (I agree with you on the rear). There are also two spacers, shown on the drawing.?
Oddly they are a slop fit on the shaft and not at all precision looking. Is it possible this was machined with tight enough tolerances for the bearing seats in the housing and the shaft?? The nuts on both ends were tight. I had to used a cheaper pipe on the
spanner wrench to loosen that end and an impact wrench on the nut on the other end.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 1:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
?
Joe, I'm not sure the rear bearing should float either.? Looks like there may be a nut of some sort that tightens on the spindle and holds the inner ring.? I have machines with a threaded spanner
ring with a set screw to secure the bearing.? hard to tell from the diagram.? Are there threads?
The double row looks to be correct if you can verify the width.? A double will provide a much higher radial load which is what you want when tensioning the wheel.? I would not expect the bearing
to be able to move as a single row one would unless there is a wide alternative to the standard size.? The rpm is low so the double makes sense.? Dave
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size,
steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure
the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty
sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
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Re: Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Joe, I'm not sure the rear bearing should float either.? Looks like there may be a nut of some sort that tightens on the spindle and holds the inner ring.? I have machines with a threaded spanner ring with a set screw to secure the bearing.? hard to tell from
the diagram.? Are there threads?
The double row looks to be correct if you can verify the width.? A double will provide a much higher radial load which is what you want when tensioning the wheel.? I would not expect the bearing to be able to move as a single row one would unless there is a
wide alternative to the standard size.? The rpm is low so the double makes sense.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.?
Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for
the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment
would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
|
Tannewitz Bandsaw Upper Bearing Question
Another question on my rebuild project.? The saw was built with open cage bearings and large grease reservoirs.? Upon the advice of some on FOG I went with sealed bearings.? The bearings I removed front and rear were the same, same size, steel shields.? Now I found a parts diagram from Tannewitz and they show a double row bearing for the wheel side which makes sense.? Also it looks like the double row bearing would seat in position and the rear bearing floats in the housing.? I will measure the space for the front bearing to ensure its sized for a standard bearing width.? ?It looks like a past owner put the wrong bearing in the front.? Any reason not to use a double row bearing?? Based on the quality of the machining from Tannewitz I am pretty sure alignment would not be an issue.? Also with the smaller single row bearing on both sides it looks like the upper wheel / shaft / bearing assembly could move back and forth.? the bearings are a press fit but still seems odd.? Pic attached from the manual.
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Joe Jensen
