Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
I used to push the lever all the way down to lock like I did with Biesemeyer fences.? Hard to get all the way down and hard to lift. Lately I¡¯ve just
pushed down less and it seems as solidly locked.? Also never hard to lift that way.? That said I too have wondered about tension and does one need to press all the way down to be secure?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Patrick Kane
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 9:04 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
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This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short
to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when
the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like
this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays
put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
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Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
Interesting, i really do need to take the fence off and have a look at it. It wasnt my only/primary saw until recently, and i admit my laziness never allowed for me to delve into it deeply. Now it is my only table saw and im using the rip fence much much more.?
My rip fence system is different from yours. Mine is mounted to a round bar. Looks like the 2020 KF700 has the same/similar fence.
Patrick
Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
-------- Original message -------- Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
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Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
Patrick,
I had the same issue with my CF 741 2008 model. I couldn't open the rip fence lever and almost broke the handle using my both hands. On next time , I had the same issue, I noticed that the lever is not inserted deep inside the hole and the eccentric end of the lever shaft jummed? at the edge of the P channel. It could be you had the same issue.
Alex Zoric
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-------- Original message -------- From: Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> Date: 16/12/2020 17:04 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [FOG] Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
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Imran,
I found the following products to very helpful in metal working. I use them on a buffer and it is really easy and quick to deburr and polish. Too many steps and too much time in your sandpaper method in my opinion.
You can also get these abrasives for angle grinder but I prefer to use it on a buffer. Similar abrasives are also available from 3M at much higher prices.
Ariel
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Re: Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
On mine I can release the lever with one hand. While is a new saw than yours I'm not sure if the changed something, but I have to imagine that there is someway to adjust the tension. Since seems to work okay I've never really look at it closely enough to notice if any adjustment was possible.
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Sam may have signed all the chairs that left his shop but I though he had a number of employees that actually did the building of the chairs. Anyways your right something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay. 20k still seems a lot to me for a single rocker but then again I've not had the chance to sit in a real one.
It does seem that the value does diminish after the original creator/master is gone. This seems to apply to not only wood working but other areas as well. Outside of wood working I've not seen the products come anywhere near the value of the original even it was built by the same helpers that made the original. So it would seem that to be truly authentic it needs so be signed off by the master.
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Felder KF700 Rip Fence Lever
This has bugged me forever, but i never asked anyone about it. Last night i used my 2005 KF700 for a bit, and the rip fence lever is absurdly stubborn to lift up on. One, i find the stubby plastic handle to be uncomfortable and too short to apply/unapply pressure. Two, once its locked, it is always a two-handed approach to undo the fence--left hand on top of the fence head, right hand yanking up on the handle--which almost always results in me smacking my right hand off the fence body when the lever finally lets loose. Ive owned 2 unifences, 2-3 biesemeyer fences, one VSCT fence, and a Martin T17 fence. Of them all, the VSCT and Martin have the best/most satisfying locking/unlocking action. The others were fine, and absolutely none were like this felder fence. Is this specific to me and something i can adjust, or is this just how the fence operates? Has anyone replaced the handle of their rip fence to something longer for greater leverage? The operation of the fence is perfectly fine, and it stays put once its locked, but the ergonomics couldnt?suck more.?
Patrick
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Re: Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
I've seen posts related to using a Wixey on a K3, but possibly not in this forum.? Do you read Sawmill Creek at all?? There's definitely some over there, including from Derek Cohen (if you know who that is).? I swear someone recently even did one where the stripe was installed along the front vertical surface of the K3's measuring tape, eliminating the need to use mounting brackets.
I have a Wixey and at one point had it hooked up to my old contractor's saw.? Its accuracy dropped after about 12-15", but I couldn't tell if that was due to maybe my the stripe being installed at a slight angle.? I've debated trying to add it to my K3, but didn't want to bother taking the time to attach the stripe, so it just sits on a shelf somewhere.
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Re: Phase Converter Wanted
I have an American ADX10 with auto start in my home basement assembly shop . Quite, ?reliable and reasonable. Ally is my contact in wi Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 16, 2020, at 9:47 AM, Jonathan Smith <jonathan.smith@...> wrote:
?Mark,?
Your comment made me laugh.? Sure, the discussion here has been thorough but you should see the Hardinge sites! It is a trickier application because of a 2 speed motor and multiple other motors.???VFD's don't like downstream switching or multiple unbalanced loads.? A single source converter looks to be the most practical except for cost. Phase Perfect quoted about $3000 for a 7.5-hp.? The PP rep also said they were testing a new 5-hp which should be available end of January and sell for about $2000.? ? A 5-hp American Rotary with some extra filters is about $1000.? An industrial Yaskawa or AB 2-hp VFD is about $300 of which I would need at least 2 and a clever work around for the 2-speed motor.? All put out acceptable power.? The motor in this machine is specialized and finely balanced on high spec bearings so need to be careful.? It's not so much the cost but more the proportion of cost of the converter to machine. If I had multiple 3-phase machines the decision would be easier.
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Re: Phase Converter Wanted
Mark,?
Your comment made me laugh.? Sure, the discussion here has been thorough but you should see the Hardinge sites! It is a trickier application because of a 2 speed motor and multiple other motors.???VFD's don't like downstream switching or multiple unbalanced loads.? A single source converter looks to be the most practical except for cost. Phase Perfect quoted about $3000 for a 7.5-hp.? The PP rep also said they were testing a new 5-hp which should be available end of January and sell for about $2000.? ? A 5-hp American Rotary with some extra filters is about $1000.? An industrial Yaskawa or AB 2-hp VFD is about $300 of which I would need at least 2 and a clever work around for the 2-speed motor.? All put out acceptable power.? The motor in this machine is specialized and finely balanced on high spec bearings so need to be careful.? It's not so much the cost but more the proportion of cost of the converter to machine. If I had multiple 3-phase machines the decision would be easier.
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Re: Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
Hi Brian, When you write:
Wixey DRO, so there could be some added benefit to being able to make precise adjustments.? (I'm still deciding if the Wixey is worth some of its quirks).? I've looked for posts about this option, but can't seemed to find any.
Could you clarify that a little further for a future K3 owner? I was planing to add the Wixey to my saw and believed that to be an optimal solution, but seems like you don¡¯t have that experience IRL :-)
--
Regards,
Mikkel
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Imran? General shop techniques I think most important are VERY good vises!!! Second start learning how to use files,,,your very good friends. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 15, 2020, at 9:35 PM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
?I agree!? And I am one of those people that is intimidated by metal work.
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Lots of good basic tap info. I use Safflower oil as you can eat it , hi flash point and good lube quality and not sticky. Dont like VOC and you get the fluid on your hands. Evan hand taping includes lots of little details you learn over years of practice.? Taping simple flats is easy tapping in weird places very tight spots on machine adding components so on this get tricky. I would not buy a set , buy proper tap for correct job is best. Mac,,,
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 14, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
one more thing
When hand tapping? using a cutting tap or die ( as opposed to a
forming tap or die) Drive the tap in? about half a turn ( or so)?
and then back it out? a half turn (or so).? You will figure this
out? the forst time you do it.? What is happening is? you need to
"Break the Chip" that was forming as the tap or die cut into the
material.?
Backing it off like that? will? do a few things (1)? Replenish
the lube at the cutting? edges, (2) snap that off and make things
progress easier, (3)? it makes it way more possible? to extract a
broken tap and? (4) way less likely? that you will snap a tap.?
On 12/13/20 7:55 PM, imranindiana via
groups.io wrote:
is anyone familiar with accusize industrial tools? it is a
canadian co out of toronto. i recently purchased two tap &
drill sets metric and SAE. i went with them because they offered
HSS at reasonable price.
i used the 1/2-13 tap first time today and it broke mid way
in 1/2¡± CR1018 steel bar. yes, i did drill 27/64¡± hole with the
drill that came with the tap. just curious, folks with metal
knowhow, can you tell if this break shows a manufacturing
defect?
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
i
am sure they will send me a replacement tap but i am just
wondering if i should return the set or both sets because i am
not sure of the quality any more.
Imran
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Re: Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
Brian,
I have that same fine adjustment option on my K3 fence.? I had them install it at the US warehouse before they shipped my saw to me a couple years ago.? Apparently waiting for it to be installed in Austria delays things since it now becomes a custom order.? My sales rep said it's not that difficult to install yourself, but since the guys in the shop already knew how to do it and the labor cost was reasonable, I had them do it for me.
Anyway, I like the fine adjustment option.? It works well, although I always forget which way the fence moves when you turn that knob on the side.? I should probably put a label on there so I can just look to see if clockwise moves it closer or further from the blade.
As for your guard, I use the standard "Saw Guard EURO II" that you're referencing.? It's just okay when hooked up to a shop vac with the hose fed in from above.? Skimming rip cuts are the worst of course, but that's pretty much the same regardless of what solution you're going with.? Miter cuts with tall pieces aren't much better, unfortunately.? My previous saw was just a contractor saw, but I had rigged up SawStop's guard to that and that provided much better dust collection thanks to its design.? I was able to rig that to my K3 and the dust collection was definitely better, but the design of it and how it sits on the riving knife actually makes it harder to use the saw.? So I abandoned that and went back to the stock guard.
I might have to revisit trying to hook my dust collector up to the guard instead to see if that works any better.? A shop vac pulling through that much hose doesn't really work very well anyway, and it's even worse when you consider how far the hose port is from the material on that stock guard.? An overhead mount that allows you to bury the riving knife in the cut is the best option of course, but those only work well if you can get good CFM from your dust collector.? But like I said above, skimming cuts and some other cuts don't result in good collection no matter what.
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FYI, rated for 30k to move a HotRunner from assembly to shipping where we have 10t overhead crane to lift it
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On Dec 4, 2020, at 11:54 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Totally not woodworking but thought some of you would get a kick out of this cart they made at work, I think its for a 144 drop PET hotrunner (HR = melt delivery system for a mold) for water bottles so probably rated for around 5k but looks to be much more than that. Last picture shows a hot half on the left and the cold half on the right, the hot half would lay on its back on the cart which they would then roll into an area to do a heat test before shipping. I could be wrong on the cart thought, the lashing points are throwing me off, will have to check into it next week.
  
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Re: Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
Hi Brian,
i do not have hammer and cannot help you with DIY micro adjust but can offer something on blade guard. my KF700 has the splitter (riving knife) mounted blade guard. i did not like having to remove it when making buried cuts. so long story short, some here have gone with aftermarket overhead solutions. Shark is one that i can think of. if you are interested in overhead solution, you can search here. i am sure it is couple of hundred vs $75 replacement so it is definitely not a cheaper option. another reason for going in this direction is for better dust collection. some have enlarged the opening of their stock felder guard for this purpose as well. you should be able to those posts here as well.
congratulations on your purchase.
Imran
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On Dec 15, 2020, at 11:56 PM, Brian <brian@...> wrote: ?I recently picked up a slightly used (2017) Hammer B3 Winner.? I'm considering adding the Fine Adjustment mechanism that Felder sells.? The original owner added a Wixey DRO, so there could be some added benefit to being able to make precise adjustments.? (I'm still deciding if the Wixey is worth some of its quirks).? I've looked for posts about this option, but can't seemed to find any.? It's $201 on Felder's website, which is I guess reasonable for Felder.? It looks pretty simple, 2 threaded knobs, nuts, washers, and a piece of machined steel that slides on the guide rail and the knobs thread onto.? Any thoughts or experience using it on your Hammer's would be appreciated.
I'm also looking for a blade guard.? The stock one was damaged, so I can either order a replacement from Felder ($75) or look at other alternatives.? I'm planning to hook up dust collection to it, so an alternative would need to work that.??
Thanks
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Fine Adjustment for Rip Fence on Hammer B3
I recently picked up a slightly used (2017) Hammer B3 Winner.? I'm considering adding the Fine Adjustment mechanism that Felder sells.? The original owner added a Wixey DRO, so there could be some added benefit to being able to make precise adjustments.? (I'm still deciding if the Wixey is worth some of its quirks).? I've looked for posts about this option, but can't seemed to find any.? It's $201 on Felder's website, which is I guess reasonable for Felder.? It looks pretty simple, 2 threaded knobs, nuts, washers, and a piece of machined steel that slides on the guide rail and the knobs thread onto.? Any thoughts or experience using it on your Hammer's would be appreciated.
I'm also looking for a blade guard.? The stock one was damaged, so I can either order a replacement from Felder ($75) or look at other alternatives.? I'm planning to hook up dust collection to it, so an alternative would need to work that.??
Thanks
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I agree!? And I am one of those people that is intimidated by metal work.
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Re: Thoughts on going from K500 P to K700 S
I truly appreciate all the comments
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Joe Jensen
David
Jonathan Smith
imran
JP Rice
As most here know, I am a big Sam Maloof fan.? And most of you know that Sam passed away back in 2009.? At the time of his death, his iconic chairs were selling for $38,000 for the tiger maple rockers.? I do not know what they sell for now, but I heard they are around the $20,000 area now depending on what wood species they are made in.
I know Mike Johnson along with his son Stephen are continuing the business?and have purchased the Maloof woodworking part of the business, with Mike's wife Joanne running the office part, so it's all be kept within the Johnson family now.
It's obvious that Mike cannot command the same prices that Sam was able to get for his pieces.? My question is, on the new pieces that are made solely by Mike and His son, can they? ever increase in value over time, or will the only be worth what they are sold for since Mike does not have Sam's name or fame.? Basically the new pieces will only be worth as much as they are sold for and that's as far as they go, even way down the road since they do not have the signature that Sam added to his pieces?
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I've often wondered if the value of the newly created pieces made by their helpers diminishes after the original master passes away or can they also increase in value over time?
food for thought