Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Brett, ? OK...ordered one.
? What is that vertical clamping unit in the background? Thanks, Dave Davies
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All,
This is where I am with laser kerf - it is cheap, it works great!
1. Purchased this crossline laser level, green light, for combination of features including rechargeable battery, locking pendulum, included magnetic mount, and 150 degree line spread, ip54.?
2. Charged it up, stuck it on, works great and is visible.?
3. Changes to be made: add a metal boom from overhead guard to make a fixed mount that aims the unit directly down with security upon adjustment to keep the light out of eyes and shine a kerf line all the way to scoring blade and back run of slider. Small increased cost at $46 for the unit otherwise - I'm happy and impressed with the green laser visibility compared to the red.
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020, 9:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: james,
first, there is no telling what each of us get when ordering from china. assuming specified power means something, the 5mW red focusable laser i purchased for about what you paid is not very bright - see my recent post in this thread.
At the time i installed it, it was just usable. since then the lights were upgraded to LED and now it is hard to see.
FWIW, unless one builds a better holder, in my experience the factory supplied holder is not steady and requires frequent adjustment. since my ceiling is 12¡¯ tall i chose to now place the LED on wall. if it needs adjustment i can get to it with a stool.
hope this helps people trying to install the LED to aid in straight line ripping. looking fwd to hearing about the 50mW green laser brightness in well lit shop environment.
imran ? I bought this 660nm 5mW Industrial Focusable Laser Line Module/Locator Laser with PSU&Bracket (only $15) last year, and have not installed it.
James
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 9:37 AM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
I made this purchase myself as well..I'm looking at various ways to mount it to a platform off my ceiling so it hangs about 9 feet off finish floor, but about 5 feet off the sliding table so hopefully the line will be a bit more crisp..Also wiring it to a switch off the wall, so I can turn it on and off at will.
On Thursday, November 26, 2020, 06:17:29 AM PST, < michael@...> wrote:
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
All,
This is where I am with laser kerf - it is cheap, it works great!
1. Purchased this crossline laser level, green light, for combination of features including rechargeable battery, locking pendulum, included magnetic mount, and 150 degree line spread, ip54.?
2. Charged it up, stuck it on, works great and is visible.?
3. Changes to be made: add a metal boom from overhead guard to make a fixed mount that aims the unit directly down with security upon adjustment to keep the light out of eyes and shine a kerf line all the way to scoring blade and back run of slider. Small increased cost at $46 for the unit otherwise - I'm happy and impressed with the green laser visibility compared to the red.
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Show quoted text
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020, 9:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: james,
first, there is no telling what each of us get when ordering from china. assuming specified power means something, the 5mW red focusable laser i purchased for about what you paid is not very bright - see my recent post in this thread.
At the time i installed it, it was just usable. since then the lights were upgraded to LED and now it is hard to see.
FWIW, unless one builds a better holder, in my experience the factory supplied holder is not steady and requires frequent adjustment. since my ceiling is 12¡¯ tall i chose to now place the LED on wall. if it needs adjustment i can get to it with a stool.
hope this helps people trying to install the LED to aid in straight line ripping. looking fwd to hearing about the 50mW green laser brightness in well lit shop environment.
imran ? I bought this 660nm 5mW Industrial Focusable Laser Line Module/Locator Laser with PSU&Bracket (only $15) last year, and have not installed it.
James
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 9:37 AM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
I made this purchase myself as well..I'm looking at various ways to mount it to a platform off my ceiling so it hangs about 9 feet off finish floor, but about 5 feet off the sliding table so hopefully the line will be a bit more crisp..Also wiring it to a switch off the wall, so I can turn it on and off at will.
On Thursday, November 26, 2020, 06:17:29 AM PST, < michael@...> wrote:
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
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Re: AD 741 Loose Drive Belt
question to the smart folks. if belt is lose, can belt slapping happen on either side of the belt? i ask because the belt side that is slapping should be in tension based upon the direction of rotation of the motor pulley. intuitively i thought that slapping would be more likely on the slack (compression) side.
imran
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 6:40 PM, Gary Copus <gdcopus@...> wrote: ?The drive belt on my AD 741 seems very loose when running.? Also it appears to me more noisy than it should be.? I have only had the machine for a short time and am not sure what is "normal". I have tightened the belt as much as I can and the belt does have the proper 1/4 inch deflection. Please see the video I made? and see the vibration on the left side of the belt.? Any comments would be appreciated if any has had the same? problem.? Thank, gary
<IMG_1833.mov>
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
Years back a old friend had a oak moris lounge chair in an out building and assume it was a porky that loved the old varnish and did a superb job of carving the whole darn chair. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Colin surname via groups.io <colt1167@...> wrote:
? Hi Mac, Thanks for posting pictures, impressive work on tapered and bevelled drum and utensil holder, the drum especially I am thinking would of been no small task but certainly worth the effort for end product. I have only made coopered lids for jewellery and tool boxes, but I will try the carved utensil holder, I just really like the rustic look and of course a very useful item. Colin PS does the Porcupine that trained you to carve have a tutorial youtube video :)? ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Re: Excellent Free Resource
Hi Mac, Thanks for posting pictures, impressive work on tapered and bevelled drum and utensil holder, the drum especially I am thinking would of been no small task but certainly worth the effort for end product. I have only made coopered lids for jewellery and tool boxes, but I will try the carved utensil holder, I just really like the rustic look and of course a very useful item. Colin PS does the Porcupine that trained you to carve have a tutorial youtube video :)? ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Re: AD 741 Loose Drive Belt
Yes, I have looked at the manual with the exploded views and all looks like the drawings show. It is interesting? that the manual does say a possible cause is the wrong belt.? I will be trying to contact my tech I have been working with and all the group's suggestion will be brought up.? thanks to all.
gary
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On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 3:54 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Must be wongbelt if you adjusted all the way Have the belt no when you talk to tech Don¡¯t u get a book with exploded views and parts no? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 29, 2020, at 6:34 PM, Gary Copus <gdcopus@...> wrote:
?Thank you Brian.? I will take a close look at what you suggest.? I am in contact with a tech, Jason, at Felder.? I hope to talk to him again tomorrow. I will post what I find on your suggestions.
gary
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Re: AD 741 Loose Drive Belt
Must be wongbelt if you adjusted all the way Have the belt no when you talk to tech Don¡¯t u get a book with exploded views and parts no? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 6:34 PM, Gary Copus <gdcopus@...> wrote:
?Thank you Brian.? I will take a close look at what you suggest.? I am in contact with a tech, Jason, at Felder.? I hope to talk to him again tomorrow. I will post what I find on your suggestions.
gary
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Re: AD 741 Loose Drive Belt
Thank you Brian.? I will take a close look at what you suggest.? I am in contact with a tech, Jason, at Felder.? I hope to talk to him again tomorrow. I will post what I find on your suggestions.
gary
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Re: AD 741 Loose Drive Belt
How much clearance does the side of the belt have from the wheel and any sheet metal the belt goes past? Are the upper and lower pulleys lined up with each other? Lay a straight edge along the lower pulley and extend it to the upper and see if everything is straight.
It sure doesn¡¯t look right¡ have you contacted Felder yet?
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 4:40 PM, Gary Copus < gdcopus@...> wrote:
The drive belt on my AD 741 seems very loose when running.? Also it appears to me more noisy than it should be.? I have only had the machine for a short time and am not sure what is "normal". I have tightened the belt as much as I can and the belt does have the proper 1/4 inch deflection. Please see the video I made? and see the vibration on the left side of the belt.? Any comments would be appreciated if any has had the same? problem.? Thank, gary
<IMG_1833.mov>
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The drive belt on my AD 741 seems very loose when running.? Also it appears to me more noisy than it should be.? I have only had the machine for a short time and am not sure what is "normal". I have tightened the belt as much as I can and the belt does have the proper 1/4 inch deflection. Please see the video I made? and see the vibration on the left side of the belt.? Any comments would be appreciated if any has had the same? problem.? Thank, gary
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Re: Last Call for Slider Nuts
i did not but since it is holiday season ...?
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 6:05 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Did someone say T-nut?
<IMG_1332.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
???I thought a new thread may help in accessing needed info in one place. Please let me know by tomorrow, Monday Nov 30th if you are in need of a slider nut for your Felder.
made out of CR1018?flat bar stock,?0.5¡± high, 1.25¡±?wide and 2¡± long.
i expect the height and width to meet +0/-.004¡± tolerance. the length will have slight variation as it is marked and cut on a bandsaw. you can specify any length at $1/in for nuts over 2¡± in length. if shipping is affected i will let you know.
you need to let me know if your machine is xroll or the model before xroll. i am not certain if it would work for older felder models but one member has measured his BF741 and apparently it will fit if bottom long sides are chamfered. i cannot guarantee compatibility with non-felder machines.one tapped hole of your choice in the middle of the nut from std offerings up to M8 or?5/16¡± and associated coarse thread.i will entertain your need outside what i have listed above as long as i have the tap, just let me know what you need.1 for $25, 2 for $40 and 3 for $50 shipped to lower 48.please select ¡°reply to sender¡± below if you are interested. here is a pic of the last one i made.
<image0.jpeg>
imran
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Re: Last Call for Slider Nuts
Whatcha making? Mike King NERA Economic Consulting +1 303 618-4915
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 4:05 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Did someone say T-nut?
<IMG_1332.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
???I thought a new thread may help in accessing needed info in one place. Please let me know by tomorrow, Monday Nov 30th if you are in need of a slider nut for your Felder.
made out of CR1018?flat bar stock,?0.5¡± high, 1.25¡±?wide and 2¡± long.
i expect the height and width to meet +0/-.004¡± tolerance. the length will have slight variation as it is marked and cut on a bandsaw. you can specify any length at $1/in for nuts over 2¡± in length. if shipping is affected i will let you know.
you need to let me know if your machine is xroll or the model before xroll. i am not certain if it would work for older felder models but one member has measured his BF741 and apparently it will fit if bottom long sides are chamfered. i cannot guarantee compatibility with non-felder machines.one tapped hole of your choice in the middle of the nut from std offerings up to M8 or?5/16¡± and associated coarse thread.i will entertain your need outside what i have listed above as long as i have the tap, just let me know what you need.1 for $25, 2 for $40 and 3 for $50 shipped to lower 48.please select ¡°reply to sender¡± below if you are interested. here is a pic of the last one i made.
<image0.jpeg>
imran
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Re: Last Call for Slider Nuts
Did someone say T-nut?

David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
???I thought a new thread may help in accessing needed info in one place. Please let me know by tomorrow, Monday Nov 30th if you are in need of a slider nut for your Felder.
made out of CR1018?flat bar stock,?0.5¡± high, 1.25¡±?wide and 2¡± long.
i expect the height and width to meet +0/-.004¡± tolerance. the length will have slight variation as it is marked and cut on a bandsaw. you can specify any length at $1/in for nuts over 2¡± in length. if shipping is affected i will let you know.
you need to let me know if your machine is xroll or the model before xroll. i am not certain if it would work for older felder models but one member has measured his BF741 and apparently it will fit if bottom long sides are chamfered. i cannot guarantee compatibility with non-felder machines.one tapped hole of your choice in the middle of the nut from std offerings up to M8 or?5/16¡± and associated coarse thread.i will entertain your need outside what i have listed above as long as i have the tap, just let me know what you need.1 for $25, 2 for $40 and 3 for $50 shipped to lower 48.please select ¡°reply to sender¡± below if you are interested. here is a pic of the last one i made.
<image0.jpeg>
imran
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Re: anyone interested in slider nuts
It will also gall running against the aluminum of the slider. Brass if you don¡¯t want steel.
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote:
I think dissimilar materials is much better. Aluminum unless anodized will oxidize. One more thing to do. Designing and building for 50 years ?I like Mac's answer to: Why T-nuts? Because I can.? Otherwise t-nuts might be an adaptation from metal working equipment where the thread depth is more important because they run in steel slots and can be torqued down hard.? Commercially produced t-nuts come in lots of sizes and can be 1040, 4140, surface hardened, thru hardened and probably chinesium.? I made some 1018 cr for my slider.? Good enough for the aluminum track and still machinable on my little mill.? I heat blued them.
So I was just thinking, why not just aluminum flat bar nuts (I have not checked standards for aluminum bar dimensions).? The 20mm threaded hole would be easier to make, will probably last in the light duty x-roll application and not mar the surrounding surfaces.? And for those guys in Florida, they won't rust.? Who wants blued nuts?
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Welcome to group! I had a BF6 31 in think 90. Cute little thing quite handy.? Hammer has a better jointer,planer, I didn¡¯t care for the 6 series J/p fact is I never sold any j/p only till 2000 and 7 series came out. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 12:07 PM, Gautam Natarajan <gautam.natarajan@...> wrote:
? Thanks Brian!
Located in Charlotte NC, bought the A3-41 used from Felder in 2016, and Felder came to calibrate the tables after I took delivery. Has the silent power spiral cutting head.? Didn¡¯t use it hardly any (two projects!) and have thankfully gotten back into woodworking during quarantining, so now looking to better optimize the space in my garage shop.?
Please let me know if anyone has any interest. Looking for $4500 OBO.?
Best regards,
On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 12:42 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You just did, but reply with more details and location with contact info.
Hello!
Just joined so not sure of the rules or logistics of posting. I have a Hammer A3-41 that I am looking to sell in order to downsize to a A3-26 given my space constraints. Can I post this some way to the group?
Thanks!! -- Best regards,
Gautam Natarajan
910.551.1778
Sent from Gmail Mobile
-- Best regards,
Gautam Natarajan
910.551.1778
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: anyone interested in slider nuts
Larry¡¯s slider is Perfect example , my design will have 12.65 mm of purchase with a bar 5/16 would only give .003 clearance not going to work .just few threads in the bar Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Larry <larry@...> wrote:
?I have been looking for t-nuts and other accessories for my Frankenstein slider. According to the small shop in Dallas that I bought the saw from, the slider portion is from an Italian manufacturer but I was never able to get the name of the company. The rest of the saw was spec'd in Taiwan. I have looked online many times trying to find a slider that looked like the one I have but haven't come up with anything yet. Below is a picture with the measurements. <Sliding Table Saw Slot Measurements.jpg>
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Re: anyone interested in slider nuts
I think dissimilar materials is much better. Aluminum unless anodized will oxidize. One more thing to do. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 29, 2020, at 12:31 PM, Jonathan Smith <jonathan.smith@...> wrote:
?I like Mac's answer to: Why T-nuts? Because I can.? Otherwise t-nuts might be an adaptation from metal working equipment where the thread depth is more important because they run in steel slots and can be torqued down hard.? Commercially produced t-nuts come in lots of sizes and can be 1040, 4140, surface hardened, thru hardened and probably chinesium.? I made some 1018 cr for my slider.? Good enough for the aluminum track and still machinable on my little mill.? I heat blued them.
So I was just thinking, why not just aluminum flat bar nuts (I have not checked standards for aluminum bar dimensions).? The 20mm threaded hole would be easier to make, will probably last in the light duty x-roll application and not mar the surrounding surfaces.? And for those guys in Florida, they won't rust.? Who wants blued nuts?
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Re: anyone interested in slider nuts
I like Mac's answer to: Why T-nuts? Because I can.? Otherwise t-nuts might be an adaptation from metal working equipment where the thread depth is more important because they run in steel slots and can be torqued down hard.? Commercially produced t-nuts come in lots of sizes and can be 1040, 4140, surface hardened, thru hardened and probably chinesium.? I made some 1018 cr for my slider.? Good enough for the aluminum track and still machinable on my little mill.? I heat blued them.
So I was just thinking, why not just aluminum flat bar nuts (I have not checked standards for aluminum bar dimensions).? The 20mm threaded hole would be easier to make, will probably last in the light duty x-roll application and not mar the surrounding surfaces.? And for those guys in Florida, they won't rust.? Who wants blued nuts?
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Thanks Brian!
Located in Charlotte NC, bought the A3-41 used from Felder in 2016, and Felder came to calibrate the tables after I took delivery. Has the silent power spiral cutting head.? Didn¡¯t use it hardly any (two projects!) and have thankfully gotten back into woodworking during quarantining, so now looking to better optimize the space in my garage shop.?
Please let me know if anyone has any interest. Looking for $4500 OBO.?
Best regards,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 12:42 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You just did, but reply with more details and location with contact info.
Hello!
Just joined so not sure of the rules or logistics of posting. I have a Hammer A3-41 that I am looking to sell in order to downsize to a A3-26 given my space constraints. Can I post this some way to the group?
Thanks!! -- Best regards,
Gautam Natarajan
910.551.1778
Sent from Gmail Mobile
-- Best regards,
Gautam Natarajan
910.551.1778
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Milling tongue and groove panelling plus using power feeder on jointer
I omitted a part in my earlier comment.? A power feeder could be about the only safe way to climb cut on a molder.? This could be handy when working with a difficult material.
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