I've swapped 575v for 230 and there can be lots to replace.? You need to be sure of the IEC frame size and then see if? 7.5 230v motor can be had in that size and shaft length for a reasonable cost.? If not you are swapping pulleys and belts and modifying the
base plate. ? Since the existing set up probably pulls about 10 amps and you are upping it to 17-19, you need to see if the contactor modules need to be upsized as well as the overloads.? You want to check that the internal wiring will handle the increased
amp load ( I would guess it will as the machines are probably wired to handle all voltage choices ).? The conveyor motor needs to be checked too as it might run on 575 and need swapping.? I don't know how many or what type of motors are in the machine but
my SCMI 24" has three.? 240-575 transformers can be found cheap but the shipping is a killer as most are in Canada or far, far away.? Dave
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Hi guys,
I’m looking at a used Holytek 15” open ended?wide belt sander that is 10hp and??575 volts. By the time I get a transformer and possibly a larger phase converter I will have spent more on the power source than the tool itself. I was wondering what people
thought about the possibility of just swapping out the motor to a 7.5 hp 230v?
Thanks
John Rowley
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You would need to make sure any control logic transformers are swapped, not hard.? Typically there is a transformer to power the controls.? That would
need to be changed too, not hard or expensive.? I see motors on Craigslist often and also on ebay.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of john rowley via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, November 26, 2020 8:19 AM
To: Felder Owner Group < [email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] Wide belt sander
?
Hi guys,
I’m looking at a used Holytek 15” open ended?wide belt sander that is 10hp and??575 volts. By the time I get a transformer and possibly a larger phase converter I will have spent more on the power source than the tool itself. I was wondering
what people thought about the possibility of just swapping out the motor to a 7.5 hp 230v?
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
james,
first, there is no telling what each of us get when ordering from china. assuming specified power means something, the 5mW red focusable laser i purchased for about what you paid is not very bright - see my recent post in this thread.
At the time i installed it, it was just usable. since then the lights were upgraded to LED and now it is hard to see.
FWIW, unless one builds a better holder, in my experience the factory supplied holder is not steady and requires frequent adjustment. since my ceiling is 12’ tall i chose to now place the LED on wall. if it needs adjustment i can get to it with a stool.
hope this helps people trying to install the LED to aid in straight line ripping. looking fwd to hearing about the 50mW green laser brightness in well lit shop environment.
imran
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On Nov 26, 2020, at 10:02 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote: ? I bought this 660nm 5mW Industrial Focusable Laser Line Module/Locator Laser with PSU&Bracket (only $15) last year, and have not installed it.
James
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 9:37 AM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
I made this purchase myself as well..I'm looking at various ways to mount it to a platform off my ceiling so it hangs about 9 feet off finish floor, but about 5 feet off the sliding table so hopefully the line will be a bit more crisp..Also wiring it to a switch off the wall, so I can turn it on and off at will.
On Thursday, November 26, 2020, 06:17:29 AM PST, < michael@...> wrote:
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
|
Hi guys, I’m looking at a used Holytek 15” open ended?wide belt sander that is 10hp and??575 volts. By the time I get a transformer and possibly a larger phase converter I will have spent more on the power source than the tool itself. I was wondering what people thought about the possibility of just swapping out the motor to a 7.5 hp 230v?
Thanks John Rowley
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I bought this 660nm 5mW Industrial Focusable Laser Line Module/Locator Laser with PSU&Bracket (only $15) last year, and have not installed it.
James
On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 9:37 AM Randy Child via <strongman_one= [email protected]> wrote:
I made this purchase myself as well..I'm looking at various ways to mount it to a platform off my ceiling so it hangs about 9 feet off finish floor, but about 5 feet off the sliding table so hopefully the line will be a bit more crisp..Also wiring it to a switch off the wall, so I can turn it on and off at will.
On Thursday, November 26, 2020, 06:17:29 AM PST, < michael@...> wrote:
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I made this purchase myself as well..I'm looking at various ways to mount it to a platform off my ceiling so it hangs about 9 feet off finish floor, but about 5 feet off the sliding table so hopefully the line will be a bit more crisp..Also wiring it to a switch off the wall, so I can turn it on and off at will.
On Thursday, November 26, 2020, 06:17:29 AM PST, <michael@...> wrote:
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
|
Re: Felder slotting cutter
@Mark, you can see that blade in action in this thread: /g/felderownersgroup/topic/stool_progress/77800964?p=,,,100,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,100,2,0,77800964The stool I was building is now finished. The slots (20 of them) at the top of the stool is made with that blade. 
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
If you don't have a gauge the procedure in the
link below works to check if the cutters are parallel?
to the outfeed table.
--
Jerry P
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
On Sun, Nov 22, 2020 at 06:55 PM, ahazi wrote:
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?Thanks @ahazi. I've been thinking of retrofitting one of my laser levels for this purpose, but never had the time. Didn't know I could buy a green laser unit like this. I ordered it directly. Was told I'd get it in February.
|
Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
David,
From what your originally described, I don’t think this is a coplanar issue. Although, it might turn out to be. If your board catches the lip of the outfeed table at one side of the machine and not the other, then I don’t believe the table is parallel with the cutterhead. Instead of a straight edge, do you have a dial indicator on a base? I have a one way jig, which is what I use for this exercise. You need to set it on the outfeed table with the indicator touching the cutterhead and run it side to side and see if there is a change. I suspect there will be a change.?
Patrick
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 06:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer wrote:
Hi David,
I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense!
-Shawn
Thanks Shaun
Before the Dual51, I had a similar machine to yours - an AD951.
Having read your reply a couple of times, I think you are saying the table may not be coming back down low enough when changing over from thicknesser to do jointing.? This sounds like a good one to check first, which I will do!? Cheers, David
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Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
Awesome Dennis. always good to have a drawing ?
imran
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On Nov 26, 2020, at 2:04 AM, dennisnmnyamamoto via groups.io <dennisnmnyamamoto@...> wrote: ?I uploaded the Felder drawing to files/manuals and drawings/Felder tenoning plate.pdf
? Dennis
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Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
thanks David. that is exactly what i needed.
imran
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On Nov 26, 2020, at 1:10 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Details here Imran: ?
This is identical to the Felder supplied screw: ?
I added an additional slot to my tenoning plate which you can see in some of the photos here: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
can someone share the slider nut screw details. i got the plate but it did not come with any nut or screws. not sure if it is a flange head or a washer is used with a different type. appreciate the feedback. here is the pic of the nut from survival guide but would like to see the other side.
imran
<image0.jpeg>
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 06:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer wrote:
Hi David,
I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense!
-Shawn
Thanks Shaun
Before the Dual51, I had a similar machine to yours - an AD951.
Having read your reply a couple of times, I think you are saying the table may not be coming back down low enough when changing over from thicknesser to do jointing.? This sounds like a good one to check first, which I will do!? Cheers, David
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Thanks Patrick
Initially, I could not imagine I'd put through anywhere near 5000 board feet.? Then, I wondered what this means!? If I prepare a face and edge on a 10' board across the jointer say passing it 4 times over the cutter head, is this 10 board feet or 40 board feet?? Then lifting the lid and doing the parallel faces in the thicknesser could make it a total of 60+ board feet (for the 10' board)?? If it is 40 or 60 then 5000 board does not seem unreasonable for the machine and I would have easily done 5000' in 12 months.?
Also, some timber recently was extremely dusty (which I assue was a lot of dirt build up, which I had brushed as best I could but can't have been good for the edge of the carbide.?
Both the infeed and outfeed tables appeared to?be parallel (co-planar) when checked with a level longer than the 2 tables (used as a straight edge) a week ago when I became aware of the problem.? After reading your response this afternoon I got my (shorter) straight edge out to double check, but got interrupted so will get back to this hopefully tomorrow.??
Cheers, David
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Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
I uploaded the Felder drawing to files/manuals and drawings/Felder tenoning plate.pdf
? Dennis
|
Re: Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
Details here Imran: ?
This is identical to the Felder supplied screw: ?
I added an additional slot to my tenoning plate which you can see in some of the photos here: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
can someone share the slider nut screw details. i got the plate but it did not come with any nut or screws. not sure if it is a flange head or a washer is used with a different type. appreciate the feedback. here is the pic of the nut from survival guide but would like to see the other side.
imran
<image0.jpeg>
|
Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
I think I ground the knives in the Oliver ITCH head about 3 years ago. That's in a shop with 4 full time furniture makers. They still don't really need it, which is great since the grinding is a serious chore. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
I put a spiral head from Byrd on my JP.? I got it from Felder,?
Carl was? looking to let it go cheap? because they were no longer?
installing them? having developed their own? So I think I got it
for Felder's price.? This was a while ago? more than a few years.?
I have only turned a couple of the inserts because they got
chipped.
And I really don't think I see much difference from brand new.?
But If I start doing? highly figured wood I may have to rotate 'em
all.?
So unless you see a problem,? why fix something that ain't broke.
There Was a fellow on the forum? who is in Hawaii.? He told me
back then about a less expensive option for the inserts than
buying the inserts for the Byrd head from Felder. But I've lost
that? information
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Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I
noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back
half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for
jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have
worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the
leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention.
And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter
block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts
at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back
half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be
a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
thanks Mac. good to know.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 11:10 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ? Imran? Always a good idea to move from right to left and vice versa down knives wear the same. Also always trim the material ends before ?planning . ?Don’t pile wood on floors that were the dirt is.? On the combo machines with temple bolts all temple should sit all at ounce and wen tighten should not move. You can see this if you put an indicator on the cutter head resting on the table on front edge. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 25, 2020, at 8:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Imran? Always a good idea to move from right to left and vice versa down knives wear the same. Also always trim the material ends before ?planning . ?Don’t pile wood on floors that were the dirt is.? On the combo machines with temple bolts all temple should sit all at ounce and wen tighten should not move. You can see this if you put an indicator on the cutter head resting on the table on front edge. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 8:11 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Joe Jensen
imran
David P. Best
Jason Holtz