Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I’m happy to share once I receive it. ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 1:54 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Laser Kerf Line for slider saw? ? would you please share your experience with the green laser. i would like to know if you can see it easily in well lit shop.
On Nov 22, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote:
? Thanks – I’m going to give it spin… worse case its $50 on a proof of concept. ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ? ? In the ad it says1-2mm wide at 1m, and 2-3mm wide at 3m. So I’m guessing about 2mm, and given your blade is about 3mm, that should be fine enough. ? On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: ? Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Chris,
would you please share your experience with the green laser. i would like to know if you can see it easily in well lit shop.
imran
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: ? Thanks – I’m going to give it spin… worse case its $50 on a proof of concept. ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ? ? In the ad it says1-2mm wide at 1m, and 2-3mm wide at 3m. So I’m guessing about 2mm, and given your blade is about 3mm, that should be fine enough. ? On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: ? Will this laser produce a crisp line if mounted from a 10 ft ceiling? ? A difference of 6 feet from the saw.? ?No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
?
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
first i found my ebay purchase and the laser i bought says 5mW so 50mW aught to be much brighter.
i took mine off the ceiling since saw has been moved. i tried it on the overhead saw guard but it was very faint at 10’. here is a pic with lights off to see laser better.
i tested and found that mounting it on wall in the middle of extended slider works better, at least for this low power laser. i also think it is better to not be mounted on machine as there is some vibration, albeit small. here is a pic with laser mounted on wall.
wall mount
imran?
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 10:41 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?
Just a thought,? If you screw a strap of steel to two roof trusses and have a magnetic mount you can move side to side and angle easily.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of ahazi
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2020 10:56 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
?
No need to do much hacking:
It includes power supply and a mount.
Ariel
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
You can use bushings that are bored like used in dado cutters on three outsides to offset the studs or pull the studs out on shaper it won’t beam issue Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 24, 2020, at 11:55 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? With the pin holes on the blades would you be able to offset the teeth so you can overlap them? Thanks Dave Thanks Mac, that was my next question! On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:04 AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
?U may be able to overlap and use more than one if body diameter is les than tip which mor than likly is? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Thanks David, good info thanks and for the comments ?I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one.? My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes.? They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below.? I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths.? What else would you like to know?
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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The resaw King runs a thinner band than the Lenox and I've heard it cuts a little slower.? It is good for saws that can't tension the .035 Lenox band but the Trimaster or CT are most peoples first choice.? If you change blades a lot you want to be sure the
wheels track as it is easy to believe the blade will stay in place until the machine really spins up and if it moves forward into the guard, nothing good happens.? Heat is also an enemy so spinning the back bearing is something I avoid.? Dave
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Chris,? I have the Lenox WoodMASTER CT? 1" 1.3 TPI.? I don't think anyone is resharpening these.? It's too bad as it's an amazing blade.? I have no experience with the Laguna, so can't say which is better.? The Laguna can be resharpened and I imagine it's
a great blade also. I'm still on my first Lenox blade after two years and and a lot of cutting. I made 800 sf of maple engineered flooring with this blade, cutting 6" to 9" stock.
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
With the pin holes on the blades would you be able to offset the teeth so you can overlap them? Thanks Dave
Thanks Mac, that was my next question! On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:04 AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
?U may be able to overlap and use more than one if body diameter is les than tip which mor than likly is? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Thanks David, good info thanks and for the comments ?I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one.? My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes.? They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below.? I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths.? What else would you like to know?
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
nice. never thought of building engineered flooring. what was your reason to do so, considering it is likely not cost effective (i could be wrong since i have not looked at prices but it is hard to beat mass production efficiency)?
?
is it wider than what you could buy?
?
obviously, total selection of wood has it’s value. if possible, please share how you did it, including choice of joinery. is it a floating installation?
?
imran
On Nov 24, 2020, at 12:22 PM, tomruth@... wrote:
Engineered flooring I cut with the Lenox CT
<with finish-1a.JPG>
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
Thanks Mac, that was my next question!
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On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:04 AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? U may be able to overlap and use more than one if body diameter is les than tip which mor than likly is? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Thanks David, good info thanks and for the comments On Nov 23, 2020, at 7:12 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one. ?My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes. ?They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below. ?I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths. ?What else would you like to know?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
<IMG_4014.jpeg>
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
|
Thanks Tom.. I’m leaning toward the Lenox Tri-master for my new “used” MM16..? I’m not a fan of de-tension a blades at the end of the job. Plus I’ve actually mess up a blade by turning the saw on while the blade was de-tension… ????????? ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of tomruth@... Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 11:20 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] New resaw setup ? Chris,? I have the Lenox WoodMASTER CT? 1" 1.3 TPI.? I don't think anyone is resharpening these.? It's too bad as it's an amazing blade.? I have no experience with the Laguna, so can't say which is better.? The Laguna can be resharpened and I imagine it's a great blade also. I'm still on my first Lenox blade after two years and and a lot of cutting. I made 800 sf of maple engineered flooring with this blade, cutting 6" to 9" stock.
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Engineered flooring I made with the Lenox CT 
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Chris,? I have the Lenox WoodMASTER CT? 1" 1.3 TPI.? I don't think anyone is resharpening these.? It's too bad as it's an amazing blade.? I have no experience with the Laguna, so can't say which is better.? The Laguna can be resharpened and I imagine it's a great blade also. I'm still on my first Lenox blade after two years and and a lot of cutting. I made 800 sf of maple engineered flooring with this blade, cutting 6" to 9" stock.
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I'm using a 1" x .035 x 1.3 Teeth per inch.? Lenox Woodmaster Carbide. I did detention it for a while but lately I've been lazy.? Seems to be fine. I only use it for resaw.? I'm still on my first blade and have cut miles of hardwood with it. I don't use it if there is a chance of any metal etc in the wood.? I think a 16" bandsaw is about the minimum wheel size you are supposed to use. But you might want to check on that to be sure.
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
U may be able to overlap and use more than one if body diameter is les than tip which mor than likly is? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Thanks David, good info thanks and for the comments On Nov 23, 2020, at 7:12 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one. ?My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes. ?They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below. ?I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths. ?What else would you like to know?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
<IMG_4014.jpeg>
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
|
Re: Felder slotting cutter
I bought the 230mm option to use on my Felder BF631 earlier this year to help with making some large tenons for my homemade workbench. I found it much safer to be able to clamp down the tenons flat (with a backer board) on a simple jig locked to the sliding table.I forgot to take photos of the jig but attached are some photos of the tenons prior to making the shoulder cut on the table saw (also flat clamping, no handling workpieces high up away from the table), and afterwards, as part of the frame and workbench. Very pleased with the cutter, was able to cut tenons around 80mm long, perhaps even a bit more, and very stable in the spindle.
Davide
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
Thanks David, good info thanks and for the comments
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On Nov 23, 2020, at 7:12 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one. ?My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes. ?They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below. ?I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths. ?What else would you like to know?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
<IMG_4014.jpeg>
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
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Lenox Trimaster? 12 feet, 10 inches; width 1 inch, toothset 3/4 v
This is from my order from BandSawBladesDirect, in 2012. Yeah, they last a long time if you take care of them.
I detension almost every time, except when I forget.
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Re: Felder slotting cutter
I own and have used both the 4 and 6mm slot cutters you call out. ? They work fine provides you employ a backer board when cutting into end-grain for joinery - chip-out is very severe without one. ?My use with them has been drawer bottom slots, as well as cutting finger joints for small boxes. ?They do not produce the same quality cuts as the adjustable groovers with side-nickers such as the one shown in the last photo below. ?I also have a couple of Leitz saw blades I had custom ground for flat-bottom groove cutting at even narrower widths. ?What else would you like to know?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Michael, tooth width is 5 mm so suppose the main use would be for drawer bottoms ?
Wider blade with an exact 4mm vs 3.4mm. Seems like a super niche product to me. Went with a flat top tip blade but haven’t had the opportunity to use it yet, all my cuts have been managed by the Felder adjustable groovers this far.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
?Anyone have experience with the Felder slotting cutter? Looking to use it as a joinery blade for cutting tenons, bridle joints anywhere i might want a flat bottom cut. Is there an advantage to the slotting cutter over a rip with FTC?
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
Perhaps you are asking whether a combo of saw and shaper is reasonable. ?Personally, the biggest conflict in my work is between the saw and the shaper. ?If you have room for separates, that’s the way I would go.
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On Nov 22, 2020, at 8:32 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote:
I have a DRO on my spindle moulder (shaper to you guys !) and my thicknesser. ?I wouldn't be without either. ? I don't have a power feed on either but if I had the choice I’d put one on the thicknesser….but only if it referenced the DRO. End of the day, it’s the height that’s critical…not how long it takes to get there. ?IMO. (but I am only a one-man band)
i would 2nd Mark’s thought on motorized blade elevation without DRO. i have the same setup on K975 and it is tedious if you need to set exact blade height. while cool, i think it should be either manual or motorized with DRO - power drive in felder lingo. i have power drive on dual51 and tapping works fine.
imran? ? I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things... ? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
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I had my Lennox trimaster sharpened about a month ago at a local shop I like. ?They charged 45 dollars for my 20 inch mini max. ?Is that a reasonable price? ?They did a great job. ?
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On Nov 23, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> wrote:
? Ariel, I don’t think you are missing a thing! I don’t have Lenox blades, but I do have resaw king blades on my Italian laguna and they perform exceptionally well. I have two and the one blade has been going strong since 2004. I am the second owner of the saw and the blade, but I’ve personally had it sharpened 2-3 times. I’m about due to send in both of my blades for sharpening. I just resawed a 7-8” tall piece of 8/4 Sapele and the saw was groaning a bit under my feedrate. I think I average about a year’s use for hobbyist work between sharpening.?
Chris, I don’t de-tension my 20” saw. Your wheels will be slightly narrower, but i haven’t seen any ill effect in 4-5 years of being lazy.?
Patrick On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 12:45 PM Chris Perren < cperren@...> wrote: I just bought a used MM16 bandsaw .. Any suggestion on the item number for Lenox carbide blade your using?? Do you detention it after use? ??? ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ? ? Lenox carbide rocks!
I honestly don't understand why people are still using regular spring steel induction hardened blades or even bi-metal blades for resaw when the results from the carbide bandsaw blades is so much better? I am using a Lenox carbide blade on a MiniMax MM16 and the results are beautiful. Yes, it is more expensive but it lasts for very long time so the overall cost is lower. Maybe on a horizontal sawmill that might get rough or uncut lumber with nails and bullets you don't want to risk an expensive blade but for shop made veneer and bookmatched pieces it is hard not to see the benefits of carbide bandsaw blade.
What am I missing?
Ariel
in Los Angeles
--
Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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Thanks .. My preference is not to de-tension it every other day.?? Any recommendations between Lenox Tri-Master versus Laguna Resaw king? I’m assuming they are similar ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of imranindiana via groups.io Sent: Monday, November 23, 2020 12:04 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] New resaw setup ? i also have laguna resaw king. i think many just do not use it enough or do not have the means or are cannot justify the $200+ price tag.
On Nov 23, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Patrick Kane <pwk5017@...> wrote:
? Ariel, I don’t think you are missing a thing! I don’t have Lenox blades, but I do have resaw king blades on my Italian laguna and they perform exceptionally well. I have two and the one blade has been going strong since 2004. I am the second owner of the saw and the blade, but I’ve personally had it sharpened 2-3 times. I’m about due to send in both of my blades for sharpening. I just resawed a 7-8” tall piece of 8/4 Sapele and the saw was groaning a bit under my feedrate. I think I average about a year’s use for hobbyist work between sharpening.? Chris, I don’t de-tension my 20” saw. Your wheels will be slightly narrower, but i haven’t seen any ill effect in 4-5 years of being lazy.? ? On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 12:45 PM Chris Perren <cperren@...> wrote: I just bought a used MM16 bandsaw .. Any suggestion on the item number for Lenox carbide blade your using?? Do you detention it after use? ??? ? Regards, ? Chris Perren 512-415-6951 ? ? Lenox carbide rocks!
I honestly don't understand why people are still using regular spring steel induction hardened blades or even bi-metal blades for resaw when the results from the carbide bandsaw blades is so much better? I am using a Lenox carbide blade on a MiniMax MM16 and the results are beautiful. Yes, it is more expensive but it lasts for very long time so the overall cost is lower. Maybe on a horizontal sawmill that might get rough or uncut lumber with nails and bullets you don't want to risk an expensive blade but for shop made veneer and bookmatched pieces it is hard not to see the benefits of carbide bandsaw blade.
What am I missing?
Ariel
in Los Angeles
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imran
David P. Best