Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:25 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I’d probably hack something together using something like this using a AC wall wart style power supply for the 7-10VDC:
?
I used a Bosch line laser years ago and made a mount for my tile saw, it worked pretty well but the batteries didn’t hold up for very long.
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Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
???? I always try to support local bearing shops if they have what I need. I do this even if I have to spend the time to drive there, it's just better for the local economy. Amazon is always my last choice, but I understand why people use them. I'm fortunate to live near a lot of local suppliers. I feel if I don't support these small local shops, they will someday be gone when I need to talk to a real person.
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
i mounted a cheap laser on ceiling but it did need adjustment. shop has been rearranged and i have not moved the laser. since i use clamps i pulled back the slider after straight line ripping the first board and then align laser to the cut edge. it is definitely not ideal.
there are plans on net for better ceiling mounts that were shared here.
imran?
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:25 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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That looks slick! Not used to seeing big coats and gloves in the workshop, was still in the high 80’s here last week… :-)
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 8:13 AM, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
As many of you know, I'm an auction hound. It really paid off recently when I found this bandsaw feeder, brand new in the box, and local!? This is not your typical Comatic type bandsaw feeder. This is completely different, it's basically a infinitely variable speed edge sander, with a outboard pressure module. It's Italian made and was imported by Laguna for a little while. They reportedly tried to have it copied in China and it didn't work out so well. I'd never seen or heard about this thing before, but we decided to give it a shot. The auction ended and we got it for about $800. Higher than I would have expected, but way cheaper than any other bandsaw specific feeder. We learned that it was supposed to attach to the Laguna Driftmaster Fence, which has also been discontinued. We ended up having a bracket fabricated to attach it the Felder 540's fence rail. We are intending to dedicate this saw to resaw, so we didn't mind loosing the stock fence ability. The pressure module is designed to slide into the t-slot. As you know, the Felder slot is very shallow, so we milled the bar to fit, and just use a single clamp to keep it in place rather than drilling and tapping. It's also easy to remove this way. Here's a short video of it in action, and a photo of the cut. We are using a 3/4" Wood Slicer blade in the video. The quality on both sides, offcut and the thin piece are good enough to glue to. No need to re joint the plank before cutting another. We will probably put a Lenox carbide blade on once we use up our stash of Slicer blades.  -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
Randy also mentioned two (i assume opposing) screws work for him. i did not have room for that in this case. so looking forward to trying that before i give up. if i end up using it a lot, I would make a clamping station to allow 90 deg corner and T joints.
imran
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 9:56 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: ? I've been using a Kreg Foreman for years. This is old, was probably?a prototype as there's even 80/20 caps on the fence extrusions. It's pneumatic, foot pedal actuated for clamp/drill cycle. It's a table top, tiny little thing.?
I don't like how the drill bit tears out on veneered plywood, but other than that it's totally fine and fast. I've never had much trouble with the shifting you all are complaining about. I apply a little glue, clamp flat to my table, and drive two screws. Unclamp and move onto the next. I like that it's quiet too. Those PC routers in the Castle machines are real screamers. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Jason - that is sweet to watch and hear it run so smoothly. I just installed the Comatic AF110N on the LT24x24 that still has no guides (waiting on Italy and Covid) and I've been tweaking placement of the contact zone around?the tip of the blade, so it's really nice to see you are showing the cut all the way through the board, as few videos do.? I'm pretty sure your placement of the last contact looks terrific - what's the measurement? 10mm from the front of the teeth?
As an "aha!" I put the Kreg precision fence on this LT24 (yes, thanks Joel G!) and I've found?I can pull back this feeder and fence from both sides of the blade and still use that fence for "small work", a bonus I wasn't expecting.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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I think those feeders were well received but expensive.? Laguna seems to take good ideas and cheapen them down to where they don't work .? Is the unit fairly light in comparison to the typical feeders ?? Dave
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As many of you know, I'm an auction hound. It really paid off recently when I found this bandsaw feeder, brand new in the box, and local!?
This is not your typical Comatic type bandsaw feeder. This is completely different, it's basically a infinitely variable speed edge sander, with a outboard pressure module. It's Italian made and was imported by Laguna for a little while. They reportedly tried
to have it copied in China and it didn't work out so well. I'd never seen or heard about this thing before, but we decided to give it a shot. The auction ended and we got it for about $800. Higher than I would have expected, but way cheaper than any other
bandsaw specific feeder.
We learned that it was supposed to attach to the Laguna Driftmaster Fence, which has also been discontinued. We ended up having a bracket fabricated to attach it the Felder 540's fence rail. We are intending to dedicate this saw to resaw, so we didn't mind
loosing the stock fence ability. The pressure module is designed to slide into the t-slot. As you know, the Felder slot is very shallow, so we milled the bar to fit, and just use a single clamp to keep it in place rather than drilling and tapping. It's also
easy to remove this way.
Here's a short video of it in action, and a photo of the cut. We are using a 3/4" Wood Slicer blade in the video. The quality on both sides, offcut and the thin piece are good enough to glue to. No need to re joint the plank before cutting another. We will
probably put a Lenox carbide blade on once we use up our stash of Slicer blades.
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
As many of you know, I'm an auction hound. It really paid off recently when I found this bandsaw feeder, brand new in the box, and local!? This is not your typical Comatic type bandsaw feeder. This is completely different, it's basically a infinitely variable speed edge sander, with a outboard pressure module. It's Italian made and was imported by Laguna for a little while. They reportedly tried to have it copied in China and it didn't work out so well. I'd never seen or heard about this thing before, but we decided to give it a shot. The auction ended and we got it for about $800. Higher than I would have expected, but way cheaper than any other bandsaw specific feeder. We learned that it was supposed to attach to the Laguna Driftmaster Fence, which has also been discontinued. We ended up having a bracket fabricated to attach it the Felder 540's fence rail. We are intending to dedicate this saw to resaw, so we didn't mind loosing the stock fence ability. The pressure module is designed to slide into the t-slot. As you know, the Felder slot is very shallow, so we milled the bar to fit, and just use a single clamp to keep it in place rather than drilling and tapping. It's also easy to remove this way. Here's a short video of it in action, and a photo of the cut. We are using a 3/4" Wood Slicer blade in the video. The quality on both sides, offcut and the thin piece are good enough to glue to. No need to re joint the plank before cutting another. We will probably put a Lenox carbide blade on once we use up our stash of Slicer blades. -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
We have a local Applied.? The prices are at least 1/3 higher than online so I use if I need advice too.? In our store, they stock SKF JEM mainly which are C3 so they have limited use for spindle bearings.? Dave
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applied industrial is where i have been getting many things including bearings. even my small town has an office so i assume there is one near you.
imran
On Nov 21, 2020, at 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?Anyone recall?
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Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
I've been using a Kreg Foreman for years. This is old, was probably?a prototype as there's even 80/20 caps on the fence extrusions. It's pneumatic, foot pedal actuated for clamp/drill cycle. It's a table top, tiny little thing.?
I don't like how the drill bit tears out on veneered plywood, but other than that it's totally fine and fast. I've never had much trouble with the shifting you all are complaining about. I apply a little glue, clamp flat to my table, and drive two screws. Unclamp and move onto the next. I like that it's quiet too. Those PC routers in the Castle machines are real screamers. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 7:56 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? applied industrial is where i have been getting many things including bearings. even my small town has an office so i assume there is one near you.
imran
On Nov 21, 2020, at 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?Anyone recall?
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Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
applied industrial is where i have been getting many things including bearings. even my small town has an office so i assume there is one near you.
imran
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ?Anyone recall?
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Hi Paul,
I’ve been watching threads on this group for months. ?I signed up after buying my first felder (an AD741). Finally there is a question I feel qualified to comment on :)
I made my “Alaskan mill”. I bought a used Still 880 and a 36” bar. I was milling about 30” diameter log and it was tight - ideally a bar 8” - 12” wider than cut would have been much better.?
I made the rest of the mill with wood and a used network/computer rack (maybe $75). 1) drll through chainsaw bar by head and in center of bearing at sprocket to bolt in some hardwood 1.5x1.5 posts 2)I make a rectangular guide that I could clamp to the 1.5x1.5s. 3) I used aluminum network/computer rack like 10’ tall (these are perfectly strait and heavy duty and dirt cheap used) 4) Made some mounts that bolt into the log ends. They hold the 10’ aluminum rack sides straight and coplaner and about 18” apart (setup with simple winding sticks)
Saw away. Once flat log surface is wide enough, I ran the saw contraption right on that as the reference.?
Not sure if this is clear - it’s taken apart and in shed now, but I can take pics of the various components.?
Best, Marc
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On Nov 20, 2020, at 1:06 PM, Paul Dyer <pmdyer@...> wrote:
?
This may be less about machinery, but more about wood and lumber.
We have had alot of downed trees with Hurricane Zeta passed through Southeast Louisiana.? ?Lots of oak trees on the ground, just asking to be milled.
Can anyone suggest a reasonable chainsaw mill?? ?I checked Lee Valley.? ?There are a few there, but having never used one, I am unsure how big to go.? ?I have used small chainsaws for years to fell small trees in Tangipahoa Parish.? ?I expect to buy a big chainsaw,
once I have the mill, maybe an 18" bar.
Thanks,
Paul Dyer
Metairie, Louisiana
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Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
Accurate bearing is good.? If open, I look at ebay.? For standard stamped steel cage sealed or shielded I like SKF Explorer, Natchi Quest, or any reputable ABEC 3 normal clearance bearing.? They are a little higher precision for not much additional cost.? If
the bearings are for a spindle you need to specify clearance or many bearing shops will interchange C3 with CN.? C3 is better for electric motor bearings that run in higher temps.? Dave
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Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
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Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
Hi Philip,
i know it is common practice to make extra parts in case some are lost but i have never practiced that. so i am extra careful to avoid a process that has risk. i would have done this on miter saw in past.
i am sure we are talking solid wood, because i get tear out on xcutting ply for sure. from memory, i have experienced tear out on bottom when xcutting once in a while but a bit more often when ripping. not sure if it considered tear out when it is along the grain. it results in not having a crisp 90 deg corner.
imran?
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On Nov 20, 2020, at 9:27 PM, Philip Davidson <pgdiv4@...> wrote: ? Imran, I do not have scoring on my KF pro from years ago but I haven’t hesitated to cut 45s the way you describe so I am wondering if you could explain how the scoring blade makes that much difference. ? We’re you getting tear out without it? Philip Davidson? On Nov 20, 2020, at 4:09 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? hi james,
i have no room and being a hobby WW i cannot justify the cost of castle - i guess i do remember FWW reviewing a table top version.
i got the foreman used so i do not have a lot in it. i do believe the folks here that have castle that it is a much better machine due to the lower angle. i do wonder though if it would have worked in this case. i cheated a bit to fit the pocket on this due to narrow material and a lower angle would create a longer pocket. not a concern for butt joints though.
BTW, i also made a similar mitered frame out of pressure treated wood that would sit on concrete as the base of this post wrap. i glued those miters and that was even harder to avoid shifting.
i can use domino and if miters are as perfect as i got this time just a tape should be enough.
i also have a table top machine that routes pockets (like hoffman) in the shape of ibeam. i have not yet put it into use. so i have another option to try.
imran
On Nov 20, 2020, at 3:26 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Imran,
Sell your Kreg pocket jig (I have to say it is a defective?product by design) and buy Castle 110? :)
James On Fri, Nov 20, 2020 at 2:43 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: i made these mitered frames to wrap pressure treated porch posts
i made one 45 cut and then instead of setting the xcut fence to the opposing 45, i flipped material 180 lengthwise and made the opposing cut with material upside down. i could not do that with KF700 because it does not have scoring. this is probably a std practice but new for me.
even though miters were perfect i did get occasional height variation on assembly with kreg pocket screws. this is with predrilling the opposite side and best clamping i could do. so not sure if i can improve it any more.
imran
-- Philip davidsonukuleles.com
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Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
I could not agree more. ?The Kreg system is an invitation to ongoing frustration. ?Castle rules - love my TMS-21.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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I hated my Kreg.? If I clamped it would be aligned until I removed the clamp.? Unless I glued, Kreg screwed, left in the clamp until dry, the sucker
moved every time.? Plenty good for house flipper crowd on HGTV but no accurate enough for me.? 1/64th shift.? I even thought about creating a shim to pre-offset. ? Gave the Kreg away and bought the Castle, no shift, love it ?
? Wouldn’t say its defective by design, if you clamp the part flush to the table you shouldn’t get any part shift.?
You could also say that specific castle machine is defective by design in that its a 2 step process. Neither are really great for production, not sure if $400 is really worth it for the casual user compared to the less expensive kreg, i
have the metal one that is no longer made so maybe there is something different about the geometry that makes it work better than the plastic version
?
?
Imran,
Sell your Kreg pocket jig (I have to say it is a defective?product by design) and buy Castle 110? :)
?
On Fri, Nov 20, 2020 at 2:43 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
i made these mitered frames to wrap pressure treated porch posts
i made one 45 cut and then instead of setting the xcut fence to the opposing 45, i flipped material 180 lengthwise and made the opposing cut with material upside down. i could not do that with KF700 because it does not have scoring. this is probably a std practice
but new for me.
even though miters were perfect i did get occasional height variation on assembly with kreg pocket screws. this is with predrilling the opposite side and best clamping i could do. so not sure if i can improve it any more.
imran
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Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
Imran, I do not have scoring on my KF pro from years ago but I haven’t hesitated to cut 45s the way you describe so I am wondering if you could explain how the scoring blade makes that much difference. ? We’re you getting tear out without it? Philip Davidson?
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On Nov 20, 2020, at 4:09 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? hi james,
i have no room and being a hobby WW i cannot justify the cost of castle - i guess i do remember FWW reviewing a table top version.
i got the foreman used so i do not have a lot in it. i do believe the folks here that have castle that it is a much better machine due to the lower angle. i do wonder though if it would have worked in this case. i cheated a bit to fit the pocket on this due to narrow material and a lower angle would create a longer pocket. not a concern for butt joints though.
BTW, i also made a similar mitered frame out of pressure treated wood that would sit on concrete as the base of this post wrap. i glued those miters and that was even harder to avoid shifting.
i can use domino and if miters are as perfect as i got this time just a tape should be enough.
i also have a table top machine that routes pockets (like hoffman) in the shape of ibeam. i have not yet put it into use. so i have another option to try.
imran
On Nov 20, 2020, at 3:26 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Imran,
Sell your Kreg pocket jig (I have to say it is a defective?product by design) and buy Castle 110? :)
James On Fri, Nov 20, 2020 at 2:43 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: i made these mitered frames to wrap pressure treated porch posts
i made one 45 cut and then instead of setting the xcut fence to the opposing 45, i flipped material 180 lengthwise and made the opposing cut with material upside down. i could not do that with KF700 because it does not have scoring. this is probably a std practice but new for me.
even though miters were perfect i did get occasional height variation on assembly with kreg pocket screws. this is with predrilling the opposite side and best clamping i could do. so not sure if i can improve it any more.
imran
--
Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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imran
Jason Holtz
Joe Jensen
David P. Best