Yep all said is correct! Rules! Make sure the top cap doesn’t bottom out on the top of the shaft. Most common mistake! Tighten it well.. not just sneaked up! Remove all spacers from shaft and lightly grease (hardly noticeable) it’s the compression of the head and spacers that hold the by the top cap that holds the cutter head tight!
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On 16 Oct 2020, at 15:00, Terence via groups.io <terencewoolston@...> wrote:
? Carmen:
The key issue here is always the clearance between the top cap and the spacers; the Survival Guide has a rule of thumb on the maximum allowable gap twixt and between. ?
You were lucky as welding the cutterhead on can be fatal to both the spindle & cutter. ?I have been similarly lucky a couple of times over the years! ?
Best, Terry
On Oct 16, 2020, at 4:46 AM, Carmen Patriarca via < cjpatriarca@...> wrote:?
Thanks for the comments. ?I was able to get the cutter off the shaft with a little persuasion, no damage to the shaft or cutter head. ?It’s possible it would have been much worse with continued use, looks like I dodged a bullet on that one. ?I didn’t notice the cutter spinning on the shaft when cutting, but I’ll be more diligent in the future when tightening down the cutter heads. ?
I found the 9v battery for the remote switch, it was dead. ?I remember reading about it in the manual, I guess I had a brain fart and forgot about it. ? Thanks for reminding me, and thanks for all the help and comments.
Carmen
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Carmen:
The key issue here is always the clearance between the top cap and the spacers; the Survival Guide has a rule of thumb on the maximum allowable gap twixt and between. ?
You were lucky as welding the cutterhead on can be fatal to both the spindle & cutter. ?I have been similarly lucky a couple of times over the years! ?
Best, Terry
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On Oct 16, 2020, at 4:46 AM, Carmen Patriarca via < cjpatriarca@...> wrote:?
Thanks for the comments. ?I was able to get the cutter off the shaft with a little persuasion, no damage to the shaft or cutter head. ?It’s possible it would have been much worse with continued use, looks like I dodged a bullet on that one. ?I didn’t notice the cutter spinning on the shaft when cutting, but I’ll be more diligent in the future when tightening down the cutter heads. ?
I found the 9v battery for the remote switch, it was dead. ?I remember reading about it in the manual, I guess I had a brain fart and forgot about it. ? Thanks for reminding me, and thanks for all the help and comments.
Carmen
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One of the guides I was reading a week ago (the saw owner manual or the survival guide) suggested using a little oil or light grease on the spindle before putting on the cutter, for just this reason.?
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Terry Therneau
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Thanks for the comments. ?I was able to get the cutter off the shaft with a little persuasion, no damage to the shaft or cutter head. ?It’s possible it would have been much worse with continued use, looks like I dodged a bullet on that one. ?I didn’t notice the cutter spinning on the shaft when cutting, but I’ll be more diligent in the future when tightening down the cutter heads. ?
I found the 9v battery for the remote switch, it was dead. ?I remember reading about it in the manual, I guess I had a brain fart and forgot about it. ? Thanks for reminding me, and thanks for all the help and comments.
Carmen
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One of my Hammer machines requires the Start button (per manual) be held in until motor is completely running. Just something to try...
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On Oct 15, 2020, at 5:06 PM, Carmen Patriarca via groups.io <cjpatriarca@...> wrote:
?Anyone ever have an issue with their cutter head not coming off the shaft of the shaper? ?My rebate cutter seems to be stuck on the shaft, and won’t budget. ?Anyone have a trick to get it off? ?It’s a 30mm shaft, the head is a Hammer Rebate Cutter 501-04-007.
Also having a start issue with green push button for the circular saw on my sliding table saw, it won’t turn the saw on. ?The green push button on the machine works fine, and starts the circular saw. ?Any thoughts?
Thanks Carmen
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First, you probably didn’t secure the cutter tight enough on the shaft. ?It is likely that it spun and galled the metal of the shaft to the cutter. ?It will be difficult to remove, and may have to be removed by a machine shop.
Second, I believe there is a battery that may need to be changed in the remote switch. ?Check your machine literature for details on the battery and the replacement procedure.
Good luck,
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On Oct 15, 2020, at 2:07 PM, Carmen Patriarca via groups.io <cjpatriarca@...> wrote:
?Anyone ever have an issue with their cutter head not coming off the shaft of the shaper? ?My rebate cutter seems to be stuck on the shaft, and won’t budget. ?Anyone have a trick to get it off? ?It’s a 30mm shaft, the head is a Hammer Rebate Cutter 501-04-007.
Also having a start issue with green push button for the circular saw on my sliding table saw, it won’t turn the saw on. ?The green push button on the machine works fine, and starts the circular saw. ?Any thoughts?
Thanks Carmen
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? ? often, it is not tight because there is not enough space under the cap and it bottoms out on top of the arbor. makes you think it is tight but it is not. happened to me but fortunately i found when i attempted to make the cut and saw cutter slowing.
i do not have slider switches but if they are like ones on machine they are easy to test with a DVM. green are normally open and red normally closed. i was able to test easily as the actual switch behind the button pops out for replacement. mine were readily available online. just look for the number on the switch.
if it is not the switch then in some cases there is blue tooth transmitter behind the button for wireless communication. i do not know much about that.
imran
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On Oct 15, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Howard Metz <hdmetz1960@...> wrote: ? It happened to me years ago. ?If I remember correctly they nut tightening the cutter to the shaft was not; tight enough ?and the cutter spun on the shaft “welding” to the shaft. I took the assembly to an automotive machine shop and they were able press the shaft out usi[no an hydraulic press.?
Howard On Oct 15, 2020, at 5:06 PM, Carmen Patriarca via groups.io <cjpatriarca@...> wrote:
?Anyone ever have an issue with their cutter head not coming off the shaft of the shaper? ?My rebate cutter seems to be stuck on the shaft, and won’t budget. ?Anyone have a trick to get it off? ?It’s a 30mm shaft, the head is a Hammer Rebate Cutter 501-04-007.
Also having a start issue with green push button for the circular saw on my sliding table saw, it won’t turn the saw on. ?The green push button on the machine works fine, and starts the circular saw. ?Any thoughts?
Thanks Carmen
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It happened to me years ago. ?If I remember correctly they nut tightening the cutter to the shaft was not; tight enough ?and the cutter spun on the shaft “welding” to the shaft. I took the assembly to an automotive machine shop and they were able press the shaft out usi[no an hydraulic press.?
Howard
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On Oct 15, 2020, at 5:06 PM, Carmen Patriarca via groups.io <cjpatriarca@...> wrote:
?Anyone ever have an issue with their cutter head not coming off the shaft of the shaper? ?My rebate cutter seems to be stuck on the shaft, and won’t budget. ?Anyone have a trick to get it off? ?It’s a 30mm shaft, the head is a Hammer Rebate Cutter 501-04-007.
Also having a start issue with green push button for the circular saw on my sliding table saw, it won’t turn the saw on. ?The green push button on the machine works fine, and starts the circular saw. ?Any thoughts?
Thanks Carmen
|
Anyone ever have an issue with their cutter head not coming off the shaft of the shaper? ?My rebate cutter seems to be stuck on the shaft, and won’t budget. ?Anyone have a trick to get it off? ?It’s a 30mm shaft, the head is a Hammer Rebate Cutter 501-04-007.
Also having a start issue with green push button for the circular saw on my sliding table saw, it won’t turn the saw on. ?The green push button on the machine works fine, and starts the circular saw. ?Any thoughts?
Thanks Carmen
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i am not sure what you mean by, “The inner blade has two sets of pin holes so that it can be used with chippers or just with the outer blade”
are the two sets of pin holes for the purpose of meshing teeth differently?
Imran, yes, those additional set of pin holes are so the teeth from different blades don't hit each other.? Each individual chipper is setup with the pin holes in a different "rotation" compared to where the teeth are, which means the teeth will always come out offset from one another no matter which order you put the blades on the arbor.? The outer blade only has one set of pin holes, and it's setup so the teeth from any chipper won't interfere with the teeth on the outer blade.? The inner blade however has two sets of pin holes: One set lines up correctly with just the outer blade (i.e. 1/4" total kerf), while the other set lines up correctly with any chipper.? It's a nice solution.
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Steve,
thanks for detail like the 180mm limit on K3. that limits options as you stated. i am not sure what you mean by, “The inner blade has two sets of pin holes so that it can be used with chippers or just with the outer blade”
are the two sets of pin holes for the purpose of meshing teeth differently?
i recently got my first dado and got a big of education along with, i imagine, a similar question about installation. the inner and outer blades are seemingly identical. however, mine have a difference that may not be readily obvious or not present on your set. the tooth bevel profile is how i determined which of the two outer blades goes on first. incredibly they do not mention this anywhere - well they do but did not help, explained later.
this picture illustrates how my blades go. the inner and outer blades have opposing bevel.
i imagine the shoulder would not be as clean if the two outer blades are swapped in my set.
in my set each part does have a number printed but they do not match the documentation. so i take it back that they do not tell you which is which but the only clue was tooth bevel as numbers do not match. here is a closeup of my notes. in fact i have 3 different chippers whereas the documentation only shows two. also chippers are not two wing, they are circular with 4 teeth.
funny, i thought i will just measure the kerf but since blades and chippers overlap (thus allowing for shims) it is not obvious what width you will get other than actually using them. they do provide a stacking table but i have more options due to the extra chipper with different kerf (i assume it is 3/32” as most sets do now). i hope other dados come with better documentation. but since i paid $260 vs $400 i can happily live with these discrepancies ?
CMT calls it ATB-FTG (flat ground) tooth profile, i guess since you are always using the two outer blades it does equate to ATB but individual blade is not ATB.
sorry for rambling on but this type of info would have been helpful for me a month or do ago so i hope someone will find it useful.
Imran
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On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:08 AM, Steve Wurster <steven.m.wurster@...> wrote: ?I have the 6" Forrest Dado King for my K3.? I bought it from Slivers Mill.? I have nothing to compare it to, at least not on this saw.
It's a nice set with good "weight" and a good chunk of carbide for each tooth.? The inner blade has two sets of pin holes so that it can be used with chippers or just with the outer blade, but unfortunately it's not marked which set is which so you have to figure that out before you install it.? Or put the blade on and then realize it's in the wrong orientation and slide it back out to change it.? The set isn't perfect in terms of dead-flat dados, but it's pretty good.? I cannot remember what the bat ears are like with this set though.
The K3 has a maximum dado blade width of 180mm, so you are limited to 6" dado blades and therefore also pretty limited in total cutting height when using a dado.
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Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
I bought a 5 hp VFD from Jack Forsberg for $335. ?His support guy walked me through wiring it to my oscillating edge sander and it works great!
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On Oct 14, 2020, at 9:41 AM, TJ Cornish < tj@...> wrote:
I chatted with the Automation Direct tech support guy about this and he suggested cranking the decel time down until the drive complains. Mine seems to not throw an error message; it just does what it can handle silently. Other models may throw an overcurrent error if you are too aggressive. ? A semi-related tangent – early on in my saga with this saw I was told it was 5 HP, so I spent some time researching VFDs of that size. Up to 3HP is trivial and inexpensive for single-phase input – there are a bunch of drives that can do it for $300 or less. North of 3 HP the price goes up a lot. To do it by the book, a single-phase in VFD that can handle 5 HP was $1000. ? Most 3-phase in drives can run with only two input phases powered, but you need to derate the drive by some amount, and in most cases by more than the 33% of the lost input phase. The $1000 VFD mentioned above is I believe a 15HP rated drive with all 3 input phases powered. The tech I spoke to said that you might be able to get by with a smaller drive than what’s officially supported for 1 in/3 out, but you’re on your own. As my saw turned out to be 2HP, that was moot for me, and I’m happily in the cheap VFD zone, though I would have happily paid up if the motor was bigger. ? that is good info. i have never explored braking on the VFD that runs my RL125 but i believe it works the same way and supports ext. braking resistor. just curious, how does your VFD communicate if internal braking is not sufficient? just by braking time, i.e., it self protects?
On Oct 14, 2020, at 7:56 AM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?? The VFD does indeed provide internal braking, up to the current limit of the switching devices. Without the internal braking it takes maybe 50 or 60 seconds to wind down. A braking resistor in theory would allow me to stop even faster and the Weg VFD I chose supports it, but I didn’t want to spend the money or enclosure space. ? The wheels are cast aluminum. ? considering the size, i am surprised with 7 sec stop time without braking. does it have CI wheels?
On Oct 14, 2020, at 7:28 AM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
? Also, I agonized about using a braking resistor, but after doing a mockup and playing with deceleration time in the drive, I found that the drive can stop the wheels in about 7 seconds without an external sink, and I thought that was good enough. The saw does have a mechanical brake as well if I need it. ? On Oct 14, 2020, at 9:20 AM, TJ Cornish via??<tj@...> wrote:
?Thanks all for the feedback.
The parts are from Automation Direct. My constraint was that I didn't want to exceed the existing footprint of the saw with a big VFD enclosure, and the logical place to mount it was under the motor. That limited me to about a 10" wide x 6" deep box. I ended up using a 10x10x6, but if I could do it again, I would get a 10x14x6 or so - that extra couple inches would have made cramming all the stuff inside a lot easier.
I used a Weg 3HP VFD (my saw is 2HP, so I upsized in case I ever replace the motor) which is pretty compact. My shop is in my house and I have trouble with VFDs tripping my arc-fault breakers, so I put in an input EMI filter to keep the saw from causing problems in my house. The enclosure also has a 25A disconnect switch, a pilot light, and a 12v power supply. I wanted to do remote speed control and programming, so I opted for the remote display, which is what required the 12v supply.
The controls are 22m buttons from Automation Direct. These are pretty cookie-cutter parts. The VFD is setup to run in a 3-wire mode with a normally open start switch going to one digital input and a normally closed stop switch going to another one. The knob on my control panel controls the speed from about 3Hz to 66Hz, which gives me a range of very slow for setting blade tracking up to about 5000fpm if I overspeed my 900RPM motor slightly (slightly meaning 10% to about 1000RPM).
The enclosure was heavily modified to get all the stuff in plus cooling. I have a Bridgeport that I did most of the drilling and cutting on, however I confess I cut a couple corners in the interest of time and due to the awkwardness of clamping something as wobbly and large as this box, so the rear louver cutout and the drilled cooling hole pattern on the bottom aren't exactly machinery-tolerance.
The airflow of the VFD is bottom to top. I don't like top-mounted vents, so I drilled a bunch of intake holes at the bottom of the enclosure and the air exits the louvered vent out the back.
Most of the disconnect switches like this use remote handles and are shaft driven. I mounted the disconnect itself where it had to go in the box and then carefully measured where to drill the door for the handle.
To mount the user controls I got a piece of steel plate and drilled through the back of the saw housing. The blade guard slides up and down on the side, so I couldn't mount it there. The user control box is a 6x6x4 Hubbell-Weigmann enclosure. I made a custom faceplate for the buttons and VFD screen and had to hog out two sides of the 6x6 box to get stuff to fit, but I'm happy with how that turned out.
For some reason my saw had a strange slot milled perpendicular to the blade. Northfield has no idea what that was for and is sure they didn't do it. I machined an aluminum slug to fill that in.
If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to provide a BOM of what I used.?
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I'm currently looking at dado blades for my K3 as well, so very interested in the replies here :)
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Regards,
Mikkel
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I have the 6" Forrest Dado King for my K3.? I bought it from Slivers Mill.? I have nothing to compare it to, at least not on this saw.
It's a nice set with good "weight" and a good chunk of carbide for each tooth.? The inner blade has two sets of pin holes so that it can be used with chippers or just with the outer blade, but unfortunately it's not marked which set is which so you have to figure that out before you install it.? Or put the blade on and then realize it's in the wrong orientation and slide it back out to change it.? The set isn't perfect in terms of dead-flat dados, but it's pretty good.? I cannot remember what the bat ears are like with this set though.
The K3 has a maximum dado blade width of 180mm, so you are limited to 6" dado blades and therefore also pretty limited in total cutting height when using a dado.
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I think? you need to consider the furniture? from which the?
trunnion depends.? Those brass pieces are in the way? of anything
over? I think it's? 7 .5 inches.? or something like that.
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Any opinions on Felder vs Forrest dado blades for use on a K3 saw?
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upland woods,
if you only require a 30mm bore and no pin holes, see following msg for an inexpensive option. it is nearly 1/2 off on sale.
it has ATB profile with a raker that is as high as ATB points, so no dog ears. negative rake minimizes chip out. here is the worst bottom i got, in ply.
imran
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On Oct 14, 2020, at 6:07 PM, uplandwoods@... wrote: ?Any opinions on Felder vs Forrest dado blades for use on a K3 saw?
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I thoroughly enjoy shaper style cutters for dados, Felder is one of those. There is a slight cut beyond the flat which prevents tearout but I’ve never had a flatter bottom of my dados. The replaceable and turnable
carbide more than overcomes that for me. I’m a little scared of anything coming out from resharpening and maintaining very tight tolerances.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
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I have not had used either, I have the Ridge Carbide and it is excellent and the service from them is great. I can also tell you that the “bat ears” are less on the Ridge Carbide set than the Forrest which is the reason I bought it.
On Oct 14, 2020, at 9:07 PM, uplandwoods@... wrote:
?Any opinions on Felder vs Forrest dado blades for use on a K3 saw?
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I have not had used either, I have the Ridge Carbide and it is excellent and the service from them is great. I can also tell you that the “bat ears” are less on the Ridge Carbide set than the Forrest which is the reason I bought it.
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On Oct 14, 2020, at 9:07 PM, uplandwoods@... wrote:
?Any opinions on Felder vs Forrest dado blades for use on a K3 saw?
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Any opinions on Felder vs Forrest dado blades for use on a K3 saw?
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Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
I'd machine a bar if you want to use the cast iron table.? The tables are pretty small.? When I had an LT 18, I made a larger table, used the slot with a filler strip to align the new table and put a standard slot in that.? For a miter guage it is nice to have
extra table for support.? The type of gauge isn't as important because you don't get precision from a bandsaw.? An Incra is overkill.? Dave
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Both Incra and Osborne have a US standard slot bar that I would have to machine down to fit the Felder 15x4 slot. I may have to do that. I am hoping someone has a Felder mitre fence laying around unused.
John H
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imran