Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
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On 9 Oct 2020, at 1:01 pm, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?
On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Brian,
This is the major reason I bought the KF with a 9¡¯ slider. I could just see doing something like this! I really like my 4¡± tall spiral cutter with bearing for profiling larger parts.
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
The bevel was a real butt pucker set up¡. This picture is kind of dark, but you can see the shaper with the blade on it. I raised the actual table up with two layers of 3/4¡± ply to get it tall enough to cut as thin as I wanted, but not have the other end of the blade hit the table.?
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
Marl Foster On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
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Mark! You bring back good memories with your mention of Garrett Wade. I used to drool over the catalog as a teenager decades ago! Yep, actually 30 years ago!
Lucky
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David B, waxlit brings back memories of school and when I first started - out works great if I remember correctly, i think I use to get it mail order from Garrett Wade like 30 years ago.? David L, I use ren wax now as well works great and has no silicone easy to apply compared to paste wax and seems to last longer as well, It is a microcrystalline wax so it preforms different then a regular past wax and it last forever. I also use it on chisels, hand planes etc and get no rusting or ¡°Rust finger prints¡± from handling, but the best part... is the smell! I love the smell of it! On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:01 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
? On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Mark, I think the legs on the photo might be angled outwards somewhat, or maybe it¡¯s the camera angle.?
I made my legs straight, for now. I might revisit and try a non straight mitered bridle joints.
The top boards will sitt in grooves. Haven¡¯t decided how to make them. Maybe I¡¯ll make a jig like the ones for box joints on tablesaws. I can¡¯t use a dado blade on my saw, but I have a wide kerf blade, 6 mm.?
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Brian,
Thank you for posting. I really like the Maple and Bubinga contrast. The taper on the underside of the table top is elegant.
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 6:35 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,?
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Thank you! Like your table too, definitely a different look with the tenon on the lower section.
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 3:30 PM, mark thomas < murkyd@...> wrote:
Brian,
Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ?
Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats?
<IMG_0695.jpeg>
|
I know! I sent the email and realised I¡¯d copied the wrong pic. The link will take you to 200mL or 3L.? 
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd melissaluckensmeyer.com.au
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 luckensmeyer.com.au
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On 9 Oct 2020, at 11:07 am, habacomike via groups.io <habacomike@...> wrote:
? Looks a bit smaller than 3L¡.? On Oct 8, 2020, at 5:01 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.?
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
Looks a bit smaller than 3L¡.?
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 5:01 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.?
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
"It contains no silicone and can be removed if needed by using mineral spirits."
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David B, waxlit brings back memories of school and when I first started - out works great if I remember correctly, i think I use to get it mail order from Garrett Wade like 30 years ago.? David L, I use ren wax now as well works great and has no silicone easy to apply compared to paste wax and seems to last longer as well, It is a microcrystalline wax so it preforms different then a regular past wax and it last forever. I also use it on chisels, hand planes etc and get no rusting or ¡°Rust finger prints¡± from handling, but the best part... is the smell! I love the smell of it! On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:01 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years.? You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
David B, waxlit brings back memories of school and when I first started - out works great if I remember correctly, i think I use to get it mail order from Garrett Wade like 30 years ago.? David L, I use ren wax now as well works great and has no silicone easy to apply compared to paste wax and seems to last longer as well, It is a microcrystalline wax so it preforms different then a regular past wax and it last forever. I also use it on chisels, hand planes etc and get no rusting or ¡°Rust finger prints¡± from handling, but the best part... is the smell! I love the smell of it!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:01 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
? On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
On this note, I suspect that the Renaissance Wax is silicon free, but don¡¯t know for sure. I use it a lot on my machines without any finishing issues.
The small tin is widely available, but the 3L size is the way to go. David Best, my 3L tin shits all over your 1Kg tin. LOL. :-)
Warm regards, David
Dr David Luckensmeyer Business Manager Luckensmeyer Medical Pty Ltd ?
and
Designer and Woodworker Luckensmeyer Pty Ltd M: 0413 013 115 ?
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? <screenshot_4011.jpeg>
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
Waxlit is what I have used for decades.??It has no silicone and was specifically developed as a lube for table surfaces like jointer and planer beds. ?? 
This has been discussed several times here on FOG over the years. ?You can buy small tins of it in the USA (), but I sourced my 5 year supply from Germany. ?? ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What is the name of the wax guaranteed not to have silicone?
Marlowe? ?a tad off topic but I feel a need to mention it.
I used to use Johnson¡¯s paste wax to lubricate my machine tables, and had persistent problems w/ fish eye downstream when finishing pieces. I eventually decided that Johnson¡¯s must have silicone of some sort in it, so I ?cleaned all my tools w/ mineral spirits and switched to a wax that was guaranteed silicone free. I haven¡¯t had problems w/ fish eye since.
Anyone else w/ similar experiences?
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Brian, Nice table, I like the 3-sided tapered legs and different wood feet.? Loosely reminds me of this walnut taper leg and koa foot I once did, which also has an odd mortise and tenon on diagonal.? ? Michael, the stool is very nice, the joint seems perfect for it.? Is the one in photo tapered however?? ?How will you attach the slats? 
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Very nice, Brian!
?
Skip
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2020 11:00 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
?
This was for a house we had in Carefree, AZ. It was designed in ¡¯56 by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright and built by the owners I purchased it from. House was built in a V-wing shape and had odd angles in the kitchen by the windows. So I
designed and built this table with an odd angle on one end so that when up to the window wall, it wasn¡¯t too tight on either side to the room. Mostly Maple, top was butcher block style about 1.5¡± thick, tapered on the edges using a 12¡± blade on the shaper
spindle tilted at 5? to narrow the edges down to give it a lighter look. Legs were tapered on 3 sides and tipped with Bubinga, which I also used for the standoff¡¯s for the top and floating tenons for the leg to stretcher joint.
?
On Oct 7, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Mark Foster <mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
?
Very nice work here, I find these types of posts inspiring. Brian could we see a couple more photos of the table as a whole, it looks beautiful from the under side.
Mark Foster
?
?Nice looking joints fellas, I haven¡¯t done a mitered one recently but I did just do a plain ol¡¯ one with just saw kerf and chisel It went pretty quick. Have to incorporate a miter one at some point although not with a shaper.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
On Oct 7, 2020, at 10:45 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I did a similar joint years ago, one of my first projects with the Felder. A dining table and I did a double bridle/mitered joint¡ was fun and looked great.
?
On Oct 7, 2020, at 7:36 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Because it is so gorgeous Jason! Michael just needs to add some little square Ebony pins¡. :-)
On 8 Oct 2020, at 12:33 pm, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
?
Michael,
Just curious why you chose a mitered bridal joint? What's the application?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
?
?
?
?
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Super nice job Brian!
Bill Belanger?
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On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 11:00 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: This was for a house we had in Carefree, AZ. It was designed in ¡¯56 by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright and built by the owners I purchased it from. House was built in a V-wing shape and had odd angles in the kitchen by the windows. So I designed and built this table with an odd angle on one end so that when up to the window wall, it wasn¡¯t too tight on either side to the room. Mostly Maple, top was butcher block style about 1.5¡± thick, tapered on the edges using a 12¡± blade on the shaper spindle tilted at 5? to narrow the edges down to give it a lighter look. Legs were tapered on 3 sides and tipped with Bubinga, which I also used for the standoff¡¯s for the top and floating tenons for the leg to stretcher joint.


On Oct 7, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Very nice work here, I find these types of posts inspiring. Brian could we see a couple more photos of the table as a whole, it looks beautiful from the under side.
Mark Foster
?Nice looking joints fellas, I haven¡¯t done a mitered one recently but I did just do a plain ol¡¯ one with just saw kerf and chisel It went pretty quick. Have to incorporate a miter one at some point although not with a shaper. <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
On Oct 7, 2020, at 10:45 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I did a similar joint years ago, one of my first projects with the Felder. A dining table and I did a double bridle/mitered joint¡ was fun and looked great.
<DSC_0655.jpeg> <DSC_0715.jpeg>
On Oct 7, 2020, at 7:36 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Because it is so gorgeous Jason! Michael just needs to add some little square Ebony pins¡. :-)
Lucky
On 8 Oct 2020, at 12:33 pm, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
Michael, Just curious why you chose a mitered bridal joint? What's the application? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture
612.432.2765
-- Jason J. Holtz Furniture
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
This was for a house we had in Carefree, AZ. It was designed in ¡¯56 by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright and built by the owners I purchased it from. House was built in a V-wing shape and had odd angles in the kitchen by the windows. So I designed and built this table with an odd angle on one end so that when up to the window wall, it wasn¡¯t too tight on either side to the room. Mostly Maple, top was butcher block style about 1.5¡± thick, tapered on the edges using a 12¡± blade on the shaper spindle tilted at 5? to narrow the edges down to give it a lighter look. Legs were tapered on 3 sides and tipped with Bubinga, which I also used for the standoff¡¯s for the top and floating tenons for the leg to stretcher joint.
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On Oct 7, 2020, at 8:21 PM, Mark Foster < mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Very nice work here, I find these types of posts inspiring. Brian could we see a couple more photos of the table as a whole, it looks beautiful from the under side.
Mark Foster
?Nice looking joints fellas, I haven¡¯t done a mitered one recently but I did just do a plain ol¡¯ one with just saw kerf and chisel It went pretty quick. Have to incorporate a miter one at some point although not with a shaper. <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
On Oct 7, 2020, at 10:45 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I did a similar joint years ago, one of my first projects with the Felder. A dining table and I did a double bridle/mitered joint¡ was fun and looked great.
<DSC_0655.jpeg> <DSC_0715.jpeg>
On Oct 7, 2020, at 7:36 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Because it is so gorgeous Jason! Michael just needs to add some little square Ebony pins¡. :-)
Lucky
On 8 Oct 2020, at 12:33 pm, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
Michael, Just curious why you chose a mitered bridal joint? What's the application? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765
-- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Extra arsenic and asbestos I presume.?
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On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:36 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? It must be good...it's "
made from a hundred-year-old formula? " Dave Davies On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 6:33 AM auto_bodytech < rhorton@...> wrote: I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax that was available @ Home Depot. Its super slick and no Silicone.??
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
It must be good...it's "
made from a hundred-year-old formula? " Dave Davies
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On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 6:33 AM auto_bodytech < rhorton@...> wrote: I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax that was available @ Home Depot. Its super slick and no Silicone.??
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I use Butchers Bowling Alley Wax that was available @ Home Depot. Its super slick and no Silicone.??
|