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Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
 

On 7/31/20 1:29 PM, Davy Cooper wrote:
f testing the thyristors

or just replace 'em? they are under $12.00 each


Re: Boom Arm progress

 

Maybe there¡¯s a misunderstanding of where the bearing is. Randy, did you expect the shaft to be fixed on the arm, ie, the shaft is bound to the bronze ¡°bushings¡± (which are actually bearings)? And thus the shaft is rotating? ??

Since Joel¡¯s photo shows bronze bearings, I assumed the shaft was fixed.?

One thing is certain ¡ª there is no point in both the arm and the mount having bearings.?

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 3:34 PM "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:
Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "Randy Child via " <strongman_one=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:


Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.



Re: Boom Arm progress

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Friction of wood against metal, works good with my 16' unit. Yes there's a little sag but what does it really matter.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "Randy Child via groups.io" <strongman_one@...>
Date: 2020-07-31 6:22 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [FOG] Boom Arm progress

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:


Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.



Re: Boom Arm progress

 

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 03:22 PM, Randy Child wrote:
whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area
I don't know what you mean, can you re-state it?

Note this is functionally the same as what Joel showed in the pic below.? My main point is that it can just as easily be made of scrap wood, ie you certainly don't need to add $100 of flanged bearings and brackets just to hold a shaft.


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Sam,

if it is a NO relay and is testing short you may have found at least one bad part. however, to be sure that the relay is shorted, as opposed to another component in parallel, you will need to remove it from the PCB and confirm.

imran?

On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:44 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:

?

[Edited Message Follows]

So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..


Re: Boom Arm progress

 

Mac.. can you show a close up of the mounting bracket on the wall?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 09:29:59 AM PDT, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:


Light next to my mortiser, nuts, ?spherical washers treaded rod , strut and angle brackets . ??

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 31, 2020, at 9:22 AM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

?Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.


<IMG_0435.jpeg>


Re: Boom Arm progress

 

Mark..while that's a good idea, whats to keep the arm from continuing swinging forward if you want it to stop at a certain area? is there a way to give the arm some resistance so it stays in a position and not keep moving?

On Friday, July 31, 2020, 07:22:57 AM PDT, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:


Randy you already have bearings, so using flange-mounted bearings to hold a shaft makes no sense and is expensive ($30+ each) and complicated.? For free and i less than 5 minutes I make this demonstration of keeping it simple.? Bottom shaft holder is bored an inch deep to hold shaft, top is bored through, and you just drop the shaft through.? Make the mounting holes on the top block slightly larger diameter than the screws that mount it (and use a washer) and then you have a little wiggle room to adjust side to side to get it aligned properly.



Re: Massaranduba headboard and footboard.

 

I will when I get something more than parts.

Mark


Re: Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý


Hi all

I love the zci that Ramon made, it works great.? Much better than the stock plate.? Here's mine without the scoring blade.?

Thanks again Ramon!

Best

Larry



From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2020 9:24 AM
To: jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...>
Cc: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3
?
Thanks for the clarification, don¡¯t know how I misunderstood this...
?¡°Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference¡±

Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Mk Vt <mkessler10@...> wrote:

?Thanks for the clarification, don¡¯t know how I misunderstood this...
?¡°Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference¡±

Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 12:20 PM, jmkserv@... wrote:

?
I didn't say that it doesn't work I said it not needed with scoring. I had a nice one like you are showing until it got blown to rat shit with a tapered cutoff. Now I use this when necessary. But as always whatever works for you, my experience dictates otherwise. The other inserts are 10 years old and only used for support when doing dados. No blowouts on the thin material but dados really don't create that issue.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...>
Date: 2020-07-30 11:58 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [FOG] Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

John, Don¡¯t understand your comment that a zci won¡¯t work with scoring, maybe I am misunderstanding your comment but I have no issues with my 20min Prototype build of one, I also have no howling like you describe. I could see the potential for the jamming like you describe but haven¡¯t had that yet and kickback from small cutoffs is gone



Regards, Mark

On Jul 30, 2020, at 11:22 AM, jmkserv@... wrote:

?
Felder must have changed their inserts from the fine ply phenolic. I've got 3 and never had an issue with them. Scoring pretty well eliminates their use on the slider because of the table slider height difference and I don't work from the fence side so of?no use to me. No matter how tight to the blade is too the?insert there is always cutoffs that will jamb and create issues. I've got 2 nicks in my slider because of extreme blade deflection cause?by ZCI. The howling?from the balde they can create is another issue. Sorry for the negative comments about ZCI but reality is such.

On Thu, Jul 30, 2020 at 11:10 AM Ramon Valdez <valdezfinefurniture@...> wrote:
Hey Steve
I'm glad you figured out how to cut and extend the saw kerf...your way is a good solution.? The reason I didn't cut saw kerfs to begin with is because...after talking with a Felder/Hammer rep, he suggested NOT to cut the kerfs.? He stated that they can be in slightly different locations latterly (or left & right).? Factory ZCI's are never sold with a saw blade kerf. ? So, that's when I decided to make the "how to" video that shows how I safely created the kerf on mine and started supplying the two wood screws.?

It's interesting that your slider part has to be rearward to install the insert.? Mine must be forward...so this tells me that there are some slight differences with the machines.? As far as the fitment of the insert, I only had one other report (besides yours) related to that slight adjustment that needed to be made for proper fitment.? I've since adjusted my jigs to make the accommodations.? Strange thing is...the inserts fit my K-3 with or without that modification. ?

?And yes, the tiny 4mm sliver that is created to the left of the factory ZCI and their regular insert is weak.? Mine broke after only two days!? I knew there had to be a better way.? I'm super pleased with my version.? Especially when cutting small parts. ?

Anyway, thanks a ton for your support!? Ramon



--
John Kee
JMK Services


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

 

Didn't know those caps came off... thanks, will report back!


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I would pry the cap off and see if the contacts have welded themselves closed. ?If so, open them and clean them up a bit.

Steve


On Jul 31, 2020, at 4:42 PM, sam via groups.io <sam@...> wrote:

?So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

 
Edited

So - not sure how reliable this test is as it's done on an installed component but, I've found that one of the relays appears to be closed, whereas the other is open. I'm relatively sure the diagram on these relays indicates "normally open" so.

Should I remove the relay that appears to be closed and is potentially faulty to test on its own, or would I be safe in assuming that is the problem?

And thanks for that Davy - learning loads here hah! Will move onto thyristors after the above methinks..


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

Roger S
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Is that a shadow ?


On 31 Jul 2020, at 12:41, sam via <sam@...> wrote:

Here's some shots of the brake board - can't see anything crispy sadly. Can see two MOVs however. There's very mild discolouration around the second pin of the thyristors which I imagine is normal. Not sure if the images come through as blow-uppable.

<20200731_120814_HDR.jpg><20200731_123042.jpg><20200731_123100_HDR.jpg>


Re: Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hello Bob?

I couldn¡¯t agree more! I¡¯m surprised that sliding table saw manufacturers don¡¯t offer better throat plates. ?I¡¯ve worked on many different brand sliders...the throat plates are always lacking...they simply allow too much space around the blade. ??

I absolutely love mine now...the tiniest of pieces fall harmlessly away or I can fling em out of the way with a small offcut to prevent them from going up the dust hose. ?

Your inserts still ship this afternoon with some others ?

?Much thanks,
Ramon Valdez


On Jul 31, 2020, at 1:03 PM, Bob Card <bob@...> wrote:

?Hi Ramon -

Thank you for your post. It's very timely for me.? I've been looking for a replacement throat plate for a Hammer C3 41 I bought last year.? I didn't like the one that came with it.?

I've had so many thin slivers get caught between the blade & the throatplate, or drop down into the flexiduct - and then clog it.? Not good, not safe, not cool.??

Yours look great, and I just went to your website and ordered two of them. I can't wait to get them into my shop!? Also, those are really helpful videos. Thank you!

Bob Card


Re: Delta Rockwell Multiplex 20-A RAS

 

A RAS is a very versatile tool. It does many things poorly, and dangerously. It can do one thing well, but other smaller machines do it just as well without the same safety concerns. I'd fogetaboutit

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Zero Clearance Inserts for Hammer K-3

Bob Card
 

Hi Ramon -

Thank you for your post. It's very timely for me.? I've been looking for a replacement throat plate for a Hammer C3 41 I bought last year.? I didn't like the one that came with it.?

I've had so many thin slivers get caught between the blade & the throatplate, or drop down into the flexiduct - and then clog it.? Not good, not safe, not cool.??

Yours look great, and I just went to your website and ordered two of them. I can't wait to get them into my shop!? Also, those are really helpful videos. Thank you!

Bob Card


Re: Oliver 192 bandsaw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Looking good Mac!

Joe in New Orleans

On Jul 31, 2020, at 1:51 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:

Mac¡¯s 217 is gone to a master.
Beautiful saw just don¡¯t need 5 saw 4 is fine

<image.jpg>
This is my current refurbish job a DoAll 16 spf with all the attachments. In basement assembly shop. stripped , repaired Finished.

<image.jpg><image.jpg>


martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years

On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:12 PM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?
Mark,?
I acquired a 192 last year in real rough shape. I've been working on getting it up and running lately. My hope is it is the general, cut anything?saw. It can free up our Feder 540 to be left set up for resawing, and our tiny Rikon with an 1/8" blade for cutting the tight curves. Mine is very early by comparison. Just had some new guide blocks machined to hold the ceramic blocks I got. I'm hoping its a great little saw.

<image.png>


Used to look like this
<image.png>

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture?

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--?
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Oliver 192 bandsaw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mac¡¯s 217 is gone to a master.
Beautiful saw just don¡¯t need 5 saw 4 is fine


This is my current refurbish job a DoAll 16 spf with all the attachments. In basement assembly shop. stripped , repaired Finished.



martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:12 PM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?
Mark,?
I acquired a 192 last year in real rough shape. I've been working on getting it up and running lately. My hope is it is the general, cut anything?saw. It can free up our Feder 540 to be left set up for resawing, and our tiny Rikon with an 1/8" blade for cutting the tight curves. Mine is very early by comparison. Just had some new guide blocks machined to hold the ceramic blocks I got. I'm hoping its a great little saw.

<image.png>


Used to look like this
<image.png>

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Hammer B3 electrical problem #hammer

 

Sam, A down and dirty way of testing the thyristors (if you are comfortable with a soldering iron) is first remove 1 of them. You need cheapy multimeter with a diode test function. Pins 1 and 2 (anode and cathode) connected to meter with red and black leads connected ( do this both ways round). If you get any sort of reading, it's duff. You will get a small reading between cathode and gate pin either way around, but nothing between anode and gate. 9 out of 10 times with a short the multimeter will help spot the problem. Proper testing would involve providing a small bias to the gate to trigger the thyristor, but I did say a down and dirty way. If thyristor 1 is fine resolder back in (to the same height as the other one) Remove Thristor 2 and check as before. Relay could be sticking, you could check. The vdrs are a quirky sacrificial component. They take a few bad hits and it degrades them. Out of circuit they should have virtually no ohm resistance on your multimeter ( yes thats a down and dirty test too)


Re: Oliver 192 bandsaw

 

Mark,?
I acquired a 192 last year in real rough shape. I've been working on getting it up and running lately. My hope is it is the general, cut anything?saw. It can free up our Feder 540 to be left set up for resawing, and our tiny Rikon with an 1/8" blade for cutting the tight curves. Mine is very early by comparison. Just had some new guide blocks machined to hold the ceramic blocks I got. I'm hoping its a great little saw.

image.png

Used to look like this
image.png
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406